Getting a new system, should I re-use my PSU?

[Goi]

Hi,

I'm getting a new system to replace my dead Sandy Bridge system. The existing PSU is an Andyson MT9-1000W unit from 2009 that is still working. Should I continue using it?

 

[Viper GTS]

From the looks of it it was an OK but not great PSU back in its day. Combine the advanced age with the fact that there are some very, very good PSUs out there today I'd probably replace it.

Viper GTS

 

[jcwagers]

Since you're getting a new system, I wouldn't want to risk anything happening to all of your shiny new components. I would also recommend replacing it to make sure that it's not a weak link that could cause stability issues with your system. As Viper GTS mentioned, there are some excellent power supplies out there and a lot of them won't break the bank.

 

[bigboxes]

That is an old power supply. Would not put that into a new build. The power supply is the heart of your computer. Would you put an old heart into your new build?

 

[Goi]

OK, if I'm replacing it, I'm considering the Seasonic M12II-520W. How's that? It will be for a Kaby Lake (either i5-7600K or i7-7700K, 2x16GB memory, 2x 3.5" HDD, iGPU build)

 

[bigboxes]

I use the M12II-520 in my file server. M12II-520W is a discontinued product. Are you talking about the M12II-520 EVO Edition? Whatever the case it's a reliable power supply, although Seasonic makes more efficient models. However, they cost significantly more. I had a 1st generation M12 that died almost exactly after the warranty ended @ 5 years. Of course, it ran 24/7.

 

[Goi]

I use the M12II-520 in my file server. M12II-520W is a discontinued product. Are you talking about the M12II-520 EVO Edition? Whatever the case it's a reliable power supply, although Seasonic makes more efficient models. However, they cost significantly more. I had a 1st generation M12 that died almost exactly after the warranty ended @ 5 years. Of course, it ran 24/7.

Not sure if it's the EVO or not, could be, or not. What's the difference between EVO and non-EVO, besides EOL status?

Since it's gonna be in a mini-tower mATX build, I'd like it to be modular. My other choices at a similar price range are the Coolermaster G550M, and Corsair CX550M,

 

[bigboxes]

Not sure if it's the EVO or not, could be, or not. What's the difference between EVO and non-EVO, besides EOL status?

Since it's gonna be in a mini-tower mATX build, I'd like it to be modular. My other choices at a similar price range are the Coolermaster G550M, and Corsair CX550M,

I'm not sure what improvements were made. Just see that they've replaced the model with an updated version. I'm a Seasonic man all the way.

 

[EXCellR8]

I use Seasonic also, but the Ultra X3 (Andyson) 1000w I bought in 2008 still works well... currently powering an Ivy build with GTX 970. It's an older unit for sure, but relatively low usage hours for its age. I think it cost me about $200 back then too... was way overkill for what I was assembling at the time but I wasn't real conscious of my selections. These were the glory days of the 8800GT, Radeon HD 4870 and Crysis @ 1080p

 

[Goi]

I use Seasonic also, but the Ultra X3 (Andyson) 1000w I bought in 2008 still works well... currently powering an Ivy build with GTX 970. It's an older unit for sure, but relatively low usage hours for its age. I think it cost me about $200 back then too... was way overkill for what I was assembling at the time but I wasn't real conscious of my selections. These were the glory days of the 8800GT, Radeon HD 4870 and Crysis @ 1080p

Yup my Andyson was powering a Sandy Bridge system with first a 9800GTX, then a Radeon HD 4850x2, and I do remember playing Crysis on it lol.

 

[chipt4]

I'm in the same boat, getting new mobo/cpu/ram delivered tomorrow but so far planning on reusing my PSU (antec 550w, i believe the model is bp-550 or something similar?). Really considering an EVGA G2 650..

 

[Torn Mind]

Really depends on how much wattage your system pulls. Please provide your planned specs.

The Andyson did not pass ATX spec when 600w dc wattage was pulled but it wasn't bad under such wattage.

Should you decide on a new quality unit, it should be milked for 15-20 years.

 

[Goi]

It won't be very power hungry, likely something like the following
Core i7-7700K w/microATX Z270 motherboard
2x16GB DDR4 memory
iGPU
M.2 boot drive
2x3.5" data drives

 

[Torn Mind]

It won't be very power hungry, likely something like the following
Core i7-7700K w/microATX Z270 motherboard
2x16GB DDR4 memory
iGPU
M.2 boot drive
2x3.5" data drives

Shouldn't have any issues with such a low power setup.

 

[kirbyrj]

I would guess that the older PSU isn't up to the latest ATX specs (see all those "Haswell ready" PSUs), but it would probably work fine.

 

[Goi]

I would guess that the older PSU isn't up to the latest ATX specs (see all those "Haswell ready" PSUs), but it would probably work fine.

I've never read about "Haswell ready" PSUs. How do I know if a PSU is "Haswell ready"? Is there a corresponding ATX version, and how important is it to be compliant?

 

[Torn Mind]

"Haswell ready" refers to the newest sleep states introduced in Haswell. They are disabled by default and have to be turned to manually by the assembler but that doesn't let the FUD train make it seem like things are gonna break and gross turmoil will occur by omitting such a mundane explanation--all in the name of pushing people to have the latest

I would guess that the older PSU isn't up to the latest ATX specs (see all those "Haswell ready" PSUs), but it would probably work fine.

I've never read about "Haswell ready" PSUs. How do I know if a PSU is "Haswell ready"? Is there a corresponding ATX version, and how important is it to be compliant?

fashions.

 

[kirbyrj]

I never said it would break. Just not have the latest ATX specifications. Whether or not you need/want the latest ATX specifications is up to the individual user.

 

[Hans Gruber]

Never use a 8 year old power supply on a new build.

 

[lehtv]

Never use a 8 year old power supply on a new build.

This - with the exception of high end units that offer 7 year or longer warranty. Currently the best warranty is on Seasonic Prime Titanium (12 years), if you buy one now you're definitely set for another 12 years, probably longer.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

A few things . . . Gruber offers a good rule of thumb, and I'd just follow that.

I used to buy second tier "Gold" Seasonic units as a rule, thinking to discipline my cash outlays. In recent years, I used a Seasonic "G" series 650W -- I think it was "Gold" -- to power a system for which I'd carefully measured peak draws through stress tests. Often, some Seasonic or other units of proven quality will sustain draws higher than their rating. So with 2x GTX-970 SLI, my own estimate came to within 100 to 50W of the rated limit for that model. But in the last three weeks I confirmed that it had slowly been deteriorating. Late last year, I removed one of the gfx cards. More recently, I discovered that it would not complete the restart after the "Shutting Down" screen, and analyzed the BSOD dump files. At first, it looked as though it was the graphics driver, and I probably reinstalled several versions of the NVidia driver. But -- no -- it was the PSU -- in some ways, a relief to me that the motherboard wasn't deteriorating.

That system was set up to go into sleep and hibernate. Another similar system with a 750W Seasonic Gold X-Series (six years old last month) was neither intended nor configured for sleep and hibernate, and ran 24/7 except for maintenance days. It, too, had similar symptoms, in that a sleep->hibernation cycle would not return successfully from hibernate about 50% of the time. Eliminating the sleep-state phase of the configured cycle, return from hibernation was totally reliable. But the unit was six years old.

I've replaced both of those PSUs with Seasonic Prime Titanium 650W units. If there'd been a $50 or $60 difference in price between Gold and Titanium units, I figured it was worth it.

But whether it was a 1000W PSU or a 550W PSU, I wouldn't build a new system without a brand new PSU. And it pays to strategically reduce the power draw of the system while choosing a unit that isn't spec'd too far above the maximum draw you could expect. You should always leave maybe 100W of headroom between maximum draw and the PSU rating, but why pay for more if you're not going to use it?

 

[Ratman6161]

Hi,

I'm getting a new system to replace my dead Sandy Bridge system. The existing PSU is an Andyson MT9-1000W unit from 2009 that is still working. Should I continue using it?

I re-used the PS on my recent rebuild, also moving on from Sandy Bridge (i7-2600k). I came to regret it. My PS from 2011 was a cheapie to begin with but it never gave me any problems in six years of use. In my new Ryzen based system it worked fine at first. But then I started having a weird problem. PS issues from a PS that's slowly dying can be weird and difficult to diagnose. So I'd say replace it. That's what I ended up doing. See: https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/power-supply-or-motherboard.2515642/

 

[nathanddrews]

I reused a 320W Chinese no-name brand PSU I pulled from 2006 Dell to power a i5-2400 + GTX 470 machine a couple years ago. I had to use those molex-to-6pin adapters to get the GPU to power up. Still running strong. Don't overthink it.

 

[bigboxes]

I reused a 320W Chinese no-name brand PSU I pulled from 2006 Dell to power a i5-2400 + GTX 470 machine a couple years ago. I had to use those molex-to-6pin adapters to get the GPU to power up. Still running strong. Don't overthink it.

I just threw away a no-name power supply. I don't over think it. Get a new psu for a new build.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Cheap power supplies may work fine initially in a system all set to stock specs. I've been building systems since 1995, and didn't start over-clocking or choosing parts with the prospect of over-clocking until around 2005. I mostly built systems for myself and my extended family, so averaging maybe a system per year, that's a small block-sample or time series. But the cheap PSUs would give my trouble after about 3 years -- to my recollection. Some of those manufacturers eventually began producing better PSUs, but there's only so much time and money to test and compare with the reliable manufacturers or their rebadged models under different names.

Figure to spend >= $100 on a reliable PSU. Sometimes, you might find discounts. But I've decided to budget $150 for a PSU going into a new system. I don't buy PSUs with wattage rating that far exceeds the needs of the hardware I'm choosing.

Everything depends on it -- every component of you new computer. You could initially purchase "Value RAM;" you could buy a $50 HDD or get an off-brand SSD; you could buy a motherboard in the lower tier of a manufacturer's product-line. Those choices could temper your price-comparison for the PSU purchase, but choosing lower reliability and warranted life-span for the few dollars difference doesn't make sense even if you chose a $100 motherboard or a non-K CPU.