general questions about new camera purchase

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

I've never had a camera that would shoot RAW pics, and have a quick n00b question. Is it recommended to use the software that came with the camera, or is there other software that should be considered for processing / converting this pictures?

Also, what methods do ya'll normally use? Keep the raw data in one folder, then convert images to a usable format in another folder and mess with those.

Any other best practices that would be recommended for use with this camera? We upgraded from a Canon S3 IS to the 50D.

EDIT: Okay, I definitely got enough information to start with the RAW data files. Looking into Lightroom (trial right now--can get for $100 with student discount). What about camera bags? I got the starter kit for the camera, so I have it in a bag right now, but are there any specific camera bags that ya'll would recommend? Don't really give a damn about price, and I would like something that will hold the camera with the lens mounted, instead of taking it off and on every time, as we only have one lens right now anyway.

update: Picked up Adobe Lightroom 2 at the University Bookstore for $100. Program is interesting as hell, and I haven't gotten to mess with it much. Still kinda peeved that it didn't come with a manual, but there are lots of videos online for it, so I've been looking at those when I have time...

new edit: So I think I'm going to go with a Crumpler 6 mil bag, as I might be able to fit my netbook in there as well. So on toe the next question. How are these extension tubes for macro photography? I plan on getting a 100m macro lens, but this would work until I can get more lenses. Any opinion on extension tubes?

 

[twistedlogic]

Originally posted by: Fullmetal Chocobo
We upgraded from a Canon S3 IS to the 50D.

Wow, huge leap.

I'm using Light Room (LR) 2.3 for 95% of my RAW workflow. All edits are non-destructive, so there is no need to make duplicates to edit. If you need a usable JPEG, LR can simply export the RAW file with the settings you've applied.

 

[Gooberlx2]

I always felt the RAW software that came with the Canons, Digital Photo Professional IIRC, was pretty good. I also use the old, free Pixmantec RAWshooter Essentials. I'll do my RAW adjustments, then convert to TIFF to work on them more. Save the project files (I use Paint Shop Pro), and a final JPG.

It's really not the best workflow, but I'm no professional by any stretch of the imagination. I imagine Photoshop/Lightroom is a good combination, though expensive.

 

[ElFenix]

DPP is considered the best raw converter for canon cameras.

 

[GodlessAstronomer]

"Best practices" would probably involved converting your .CR2 files to Abode's DNG (Digital Negative) format for guaranteed compatibility in the future. Personally I don't bother. Anyway, from there I prefer Photoshop to DPP, but it's not cheap and it's really up to you to decide whether or not it's worth the cost. You can download a PS CS4 trial from Adobe's website and try it for 30 days before pulling the trigger, so it can't hurt to give it a go.

Any other best practices that would be recommended for use with this camera? We upgraded from a Canon S3 IS to the 50D.

I hope I'm on the right track, not totally sure what you mean by best practices. Always change lenses in as dust-free an environment as possible, as quickly as possible. Always use rear lens caps when lenses aren't mounted. READ THE MANUAL. It never ceases to amaze me how often people will drop hundreds or thousands of dollars on a camera and then come to forums asking basic questions without having read the manual.

Don't get too hung up on "best practices", just keep the camera in good shape (but don't obsess) and most importantly have fun.

Edit -

Also, what methods do ya'll normally use? Keep the raw data in one folder, then convert images to a usable format in another folder and mess with those.

For my workflow, I copy the RAWs to a temp folder on my desktop. I go through the RAW images in Adobe Bridge, deleting any that are completely unacceptable. Now that I have a set of "maybes", I copy them to a folder titled RAW on my hard disk, under subfolder "yymmdd description" (eg, 090621 Sunset at the beach). That folder gets backed up to a separate HDD and two DVDs. From there I go through that folder in Bridge using my eye and the magnifying glass to pick out the best ones. Open the best in Photoshop, convert them to .JPG (used to use TIFF but can't be bothered with that shit anymore) and save to a folder in My Pictures with the same name as the RAW subfolder. I'll then open each of the JPGs in PS and work on sharpening, dodge, burn etc if required.

 

[Madwand1]

Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer
That folder gets backed up to a separate HDD and two DVDs.

Hear, hear.

I don't use DVDs for this purpose yet, but try to ensure that at least two separate drives will have the original images (in practice, usually two separate RAID 5 arrays).

 

[foghorn67]

I love processing RAW/CR2 with Lightroom. However, Canon DPP excels at sharpening.
You can crank up the sharpening to a razor like feel without the "hello thar, tone down the USM."

 

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

Originally posted by: Madwand1

Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer
That folder gets backed up to a separate HDD and two DVDs.

Hear, hear.

I don't use DVDs for this purpose yet, but try to ensure that at least two separate drives will have the original images (in practice, usually two separate RAID 5 arrays).

This part I will have no problem with. Files will be on the WHS machine, which duplicates to multiple drives, and files will be stored on another machine in the house, as well as an external that resides off site (work).

Thansk for all of the advise everyone. I do have a quick question that I haven't been able to find out in the manual. It is about switching lenses. The camera should be powered off when lenses to prevent damage to the CCD correct? Or does it not matter when you switch lenses?

I've looked for a "Camera Noobs, don't do this stuff" section, but have yet to find out. I almost found on in the back of the manual, but it was all related to the battery.

 

[xchangx]

Originally posted by: Fullmetal Chocobo

Originally posted by: Madwand1

Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer
That folder gets backed up to a separate HDD and two DVDs.

Hear, hear.

I don't use DVDs for this purpose yet, but try to ensure that at least two separate drives will have the original images (in practice, usually two separate RAID 5 arrays).

This part I will have no problem with. Files will be on the WHS machine, which duplicates to multiple drives, and files will be stored on another machine in the house, as well as an external that resides off site (work).

Thansk for all of the advise everyone. I do have a quick question that I haven't been able to find out in the manual. It is about switching lenses. The camera should be powered off when lenses to prevent damage to the CCD correct? Or does it not matter when you switch lenses?

I've looked for a "Camera Noobs, don't do this stuff" section, but have yet to find out. I almost found on in the back of the manual, but it was all related to the battery.

Turn the camera off to change the lens so that dirt doesn't get on the sensor. Since the sensor will have an electric charge with the camera on, it will attract dirt and dust.

 

[GodlessAstronomer]

Originally posted by: xchangx
Turn the camera off to change the lens so that dirt doesn't get on the sensor. Since the sensor will have an electric charge with the camera on, it will attract dirt and dust.

This is a myth, don't worry about it. The charge on a CCD is very, very small, and does not produce enough of an electric field to attract dust. Don't stress about turning the camera off or lens changes.

 

[xchangx]

Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer

Originally posted by: xchangx
Turn the camera off to change the lens so that dirt doesn't get on the sensor. Since the sensor will have an electric charge with the camera on, it will attract dirt and dust.

This is a myth, don't worry about it. The charge on a CCD is very, very small, and does not produce enough of an electric field to attract dust. Don't stress about turning the camera off or lens changes.

hmm, never knew it was a myth. Just repeating what I've heard. Oh well, I don't always turn mine off (forget sometimes) and my sensor is fairly clean, the mirror is a little dirty, but that doesn't bother me too much.

 

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

Originally posted by: xchangx

Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer

Originally posted by: xchangx
Turn the camera off to change the lens so that dirt doesn't get on the sensor. Since the sensor will have an electric charge with the camera on, it will attract dirt and dust.

This is a myth, don't worry about it. The charge on a CCD is very, very small, and does not produce enough of an electric field to attract dust. Don't stress about turning the camera off or lens changes.

hmm, never knew it was a myth. Just repeating what I've heard. Oh well, I don't always turn mine off (forget sometimes) and my sensor is fairly clean, the mirror is a little dirty, but that doesn't bother me too much.

Okay. I was worried about too much light or something going to the sensor and messing it up. I did that by accident (removed lens without turning off camera) and it didn't seem to mess up anything, but I wasn't sure. And my wife wasn't sure either.

 

[GodlessAstronomer]

The sensor isn't directly exposed to light when the lens is removed as the mirror is still in the way. Besides, sensors are meant to be exposed to light

 

[twistedlogic]

I still think its a good idea to turn the camera off while changing lenses.

Though its rare, something can go wrong with changing the lenses with the camera on. Here is a post on another forum: "My old D70 froze when I popped a lens off while it was switched on, and it wouldn't respond to anything at all. It needed a two week return to Nikon to fix it by swapping out the main board." Mar 30, 2009

I think its better to just err on the safe side and turn the camera off while swapping lenses. But I still refuse to where a static wrist guard while working inside puters.

 

[fuzzybabybunny]

Like others have said, I would invest in a good RAW editing program like Lightroom.

Lightroom is so powerful because it can be easily set to employ best practices of a RAW based photo workflow:

1. Non-destructive editing: your original RAW files will remain untouched, forever. All edit settings are recorded in the Lightroom catalog, which means unlimited rollback of edits, unlimited versions of a specific photo you're editing, ability to always go back to the original unedited state, and easy to back up every edit you've ever made to every photo by just backing up the Lightroom catalog. Every now and then Lightroom will request that you back up its catalog to a backup drive.

2. Importing photos: You can set it to automatically convert every file into the non-proprietary DNG format and save it into a directory of your choosing. AT THE SAME TIME, you can have it save the files to two locations - a working directory and a backup directly. You plug in your flash card, Lightroom detects the flashcard and its photos, and you tell it to automatically import into both a working and backup directory.

3. Great integration with outside image editors. You can select an image in Lightroom and click "edit in external program." The external program will run, the image will open up automatically in it, and once you are done editing the edited image will show up in Lightroom for further editing.

4. Great organizational tools in its catalog. Search by keyword, search by date, folder, etc.

5. Ability to edit LOTS of photos. Set your edit settings for one photo and tell it to sync these settings across all photos. Specific multiple default settings to apply to all photos.

 

[twistedlogic]

Very nice post FBB, I can't even start explaining the benefits of LR because I know my post will end up taking me a good hour, lol.

Originally posted by: fuzzybabybunny
Every now and then Lightroom will request that you back up its catalog to a backup drive.

JFYI, not always. There is an option in Catalog Settings (Ctrl+Alt+,) to backup catalog:

Never
Once a month, upon LR starting
Once a week, upon LR starting
Once a day, upon LR starting
Every time LR starts
Next time LR starts only

 

[fuzzybabybunny]

Originally posted by: twistedlogic

Originally posted by: fuzzybabybunny
Every now and then Lightroom will request that you back up its catalog to a backup drive.

JFYI, not always. There is an option in Catalog Settings (Ctrl+Alt+,) to backup catalog:

Never
Once a month, upon LR starting
Once a week, upon LR starting
Once a day, upon LR starting
Every time LR starts
Next time LR starts only

This is true, although if I remember correctly, when you first install Lightroom it asks you to set up backup intervals at the same time, so there's not really a way for you to miss this setting.

 

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

Okay, I definitely got enough information to start with the RAW data files. Looking into Lightroom (trial right now--can get for $100 with student discount).

What about camera bags? I got the starter kit for the camera, so I have it in a bag right now, but are there any specific camera bags that ya'll would recommend? Don't really give a damn about price, and I would like something that will hold the camera with the lens mounted, instead of taking it off and on every time, as we only have one lens right now anyway.

 

[akugami]

I just bought a Canon 50D myself which ran about $1250'ish w/ 28-135mm kit lens from Amazon.

Think Tank bags seem built really well. Maybe look into getting some bags from them.

I bought the Think Tank Airport Antidote. Bag feels very solid, and heavy, and looks like it's built to last. My purposes with this bag is purely for travel when you want to bring a decent amount of gear on your back such as trips out of the country.

I was thinking of getting a smaller bag or perhaps getting a Think Tank Digital Holster (comes in various sizes) for ease of access on quickie outtings and then getting a fanny pack / belt pack for a few small items such as batteries, memory cards, flash, maybe an extra lens.

 

[takeru]

i have a crumpler 7mil and 5mil bag. holds my 40d, 3 lenses, flash, and accessories very nicely. the 5mil is when i wanna travel light. the fact that it doesn't really look like a camera bag also is what i like, instead of loweprowhoastealmenow bags.

a 6 mil bag would probably be good for you.

 

[GodlessAstronomer]

I have the Crumpler 5mil for my 30D. It's a great bag if you're like me and have a limited selection of lenses and no external flash. If I get any more gear I will have to upgrade or start leaving stuff behind, but I really like the bag and would have no problems getting another Crumpler. I treat mine like shit and it looks brand new.

 

[Madwand1]

Crumplers are nice bags when you can afford them and want to get looks which disguise the touristiness / camera geekiness / etc.. But there are better values in terms of functional design and cost when you don't put such a premium on the appearance. There are also some much more expensive and nicer looking bags if you want to go further along those lines.

I'm not taking a specific pro or anti- Crumpler position here, but just pointing out the trade-offs. There are many brands and models available, and not everyone would put the premium on camera disguise, and some might prefer a design based on price and/or functionality first, and looks not so much, at least in some cases. Besides, if everyone has Crumplers, what's the point?

 

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

So I think I'm going to go with a Crumpler 6 mil bag, as I might be able to fit my netbook in there as well. So on toe the next question. How are these extension tubes for macro photography? I plan on getting a 100m macro lens, but this would work until I can get more lenses. Any opinion on extension tubes?

 

[fuzzybabybunny]

Originally posted by: Fullmetal Chocobo
So I think I'm going to go with a Crumpler 6 mil bag, as I might be able to fit my netbook in there as well. So on toe the next question. How are these extension tubes for macro photography? I plan on getting a 100m macro lens, but this would work until I can get more lenses. Any opinion on extension tubes?

Those would work just fine. For a cheaper alternative consider Pro Optic Brand auto extension tubes from Adorama.

 

[Fullmetal Chocobo]

Okay, wow. Lightroom 2 is amazing. It's almost like cheating. hehe.

What dpi do ya'll normally export photos in? I know it differs for print, web, email, etc, but can anyone give examples?