Gardeners/Botanists: Planting trees?

[Foxery]

I live in the northeastern US (New York) and wish to plant some fruit trees in my back yard. Given that spring is long past, when is the next best time of year for this? i.e. gives them the best chance of surviving the winter.

For reference, I'm planning on apples, cherries, plums, and hopefully a fourth if I find something that survives in this region, and appeals to me. (Not a fan of pears.) I have room for 2-3 of each type, in case these species require cross polination.

 

[iamwiz82]

Fall is the best time for fruit trees, so you are ok.

 

[Billb2]

And watch where you plant them. So many people plant trees (though it's mostly ornamental ones) where they look OK when first planted and small. But ten/twenty years down the road the location looks stupid.

I've some neighbors that planted two Blue Spruces (then about 4 feet tall) about 3 feet from their house. Ten years later they look like an abomination.

 

[Foxery]

Good deal. I'll have to get to the nursery before their stock gets too low

Billb2: Yep, I have an enormous back yard and plan to space them 12+ feet apart. They won't be anywhere near a building. I'm debating taking out some raggedy junk trees and bushes along my property line out, and using some of these as a nicer border with a neighbor's driveway. (Tons of clearance for them, too)

 

[darkxshade]

Why plant a tree when you can plant yo face:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHn1n0JJiFc

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: Foxery
Good deal. I'll have to get to the nursery before their stock gets too low

Billb2: Yep, I have an enormous back yard and plan to space them 12+ feet apart. They won't be anywhere near a building. I'm debating taking out some raggedy junk trees and bushes along my property line out, and using some of these as a nicer border with a neighbor's driveway. (Tons of clearance for them, too)

Those trees are going to get a lot bigger than 12 feet, and fast.

Fall is also the best time to plant. You're going to have to be careful the first year or two and make sure they get DEEP water. I don't believe you are supposed to fertilize the first year but should put something in with the roots.

I'm not an expert, but have planted my share of trees and shrubs. I had to cut down my apple tree because it got HUGE after about 4 years. But in all seriousness, have a good conversation with the nursery when you buy them, they'll hook you up with advice regarding spacing, size, watering/food/pollination, etc.

 

[0]

I've always planted fruit trees in the early spring, before they have leaves on them. Instead of the nursery, we got all our trees from our county soil and water conservation district, which holds a yearly sale in the spring, with ordering done in late winter. I would check your local county extension to see if this is possible, if so, you'll be getting the correct type of trees for your area, you'll support the local soil and water conservation, and you'll get them *much* cheaper than from a nursery. In fact, most nurseries get their trees from the soil and water conservation district, and then resell to you.

A simple call to your local county government office will get you a quick answer.

HTH.

 

[Billb2]

Originally posted by: Foxery
plan to space them 12+ feet apart.

/fail

 

[Blayze]

You should be ok planting them in the fall.

 

[Foxery]

Originally posted by: Billb2

Originally posted by: Foxery
plan to space them 12+ feet apart.

/fail

Bah, proofreading. I was picturing a 12' radius for each. (And I do have room for that.) I don't think I've ever seen an adult cherry tree, but I've been to the apple orchards

There are also "dwarf" varieties - I'll confirm their expected sizes before walking out with them. I started writing some of this stuff down back in the spring, and never finished...

 

[0]

Did you call your county extension yet?...

 

[Foxery]

It's Sunday.... but I haven't figured out what that actually is.

 

[0]

Originally posted by: Foxery
It's Sunday.... but I haven't figured out what that actually is.

Call your local county government, they usually have a general information number. Ask for the soil and water conservation department. Sometimes its also called the agricultural agency etc. They might also have a full time forester for the county. See if they have an annual tree sale etc. EASY!

 

[JEDI]

Originally posted by: Foxery
I live in the northeastern US (New York) and wish to plant some fruit trees in my back yard. Given that spring is long past, when is the next best time of year for this? i.e. gives them the best chance of surviving the winter.

For reference, I'm planning on apples, cherries, plums, and hopefully a fourth if I find something that survives in this region, and appeals to me. (Not a fan of pears.) I have room for 2-3 of each type, in case these species require cross polination.

just buy apples, cherries, plums, and throw the seeeds in your garden?
eat lots of them and toss. if too many take root and spring up next spring, pull them like weeds.

 

[Billb2]

Originally posted by: Foxery

Originally posted by: Billb2

Originally posted by: Foxery
plan to space them 12+ feet apart.

/fail

Bah, proofreading. I was picturing a 12' radius for each. (And I do have room for that.) I don't think I've ever seen an adult cherry tree, but I've been to the apple orchards

There are also "dwarf" varieties - I'll confirm their expected sizes before walking out with them. I started writing some of this stuff down back in the spring, and never finished...

12 foot radius may or may not be OK. Depends on tree size and whether you trim.


Rootstock and Spacing All apple trees sold commercially consist of two parts that are grafted together to form the tree. The "scion" is the top portion that branches and bears fruit and is grafted onto a "rootstock". The type of fruit is determined by the scion variety. The rootstock can be a "seedling", which produces a full size or standard tree, or the rootstock can be "size-controlled" or "dwarfing", which produces a tree that is smaller than full size. The rootstock determines the relative size of the tree but does not affect the type or quality of fruit that the tree bears. Different rootstocks are desirable because they can control the size of the apple tree, reduce the time until the tree reaches fruit-bearing age, and may offer some pest resistance.