Garage door only goes up part way

[Charmonium]

I have multipanel, wood garage door. It uses springs and cable to help lift the door. There are wheels on the side that run in 2 tracks along each side and then on the ceiling.

The problem is that the door only goes up about 2 feet when I hit the garage opener. However if I disengage the drive chain, I can lift the door manually. But it seems to catch on one section of track.

I think what's happening is that the pressure needed to jump to the next section of track is more than the torque setting on the motor. So just like it won't close all the way if there is an obstruction, I'm guessing there is a similar mechanism that works on the way up.

So I think I have the problem sussed but wanted to run it by other folks here.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

[boomerang]

You should have a manual disconnect where the traveler engages with the bracket on the door. Pull that disconnect rope (it should have a handle on it) and see if the door goes through its travel smoothly both up and down. Be aware that if the springs are not adjusted quite right, it may want to go up fast once it reaches a certain height and on the way down it may suddenly get heavy and difficult to control.

http://www.usinspect.com/sites/default/files/Main%20Chain,%20Disconnect,%20and%20Spring.JPG

If it does go up and down easily, the springs are OK. It sounds like you've done this already, but this would be a better way to do it. You will get a better sense if something is catching with the opener completely disconnected from the door. If it is "catching" take a good look at the rollers on the door sections.

If all that checks out OK, you need to take a look at the drive gears on the opener. If they are OK, you need a new logic board. I would do a little research on your brand of opener before replacing the logic board.

If your door has electric eyes that have come out of alignment, typically the door will go up a few inches and then stop. With it going up two feet, it doesn't sound like that is your problem.

 

[Charmonium]

That's an interesting spring arrangement. Mine are at the end of each track so that as the door goes down, it pulls a cable that goes around a pulley and then to the spring.

The springs are out of balance since I replaced one several years ago and never got around to doing the other one. I have 3 extra springs (2 doors) but I've never used them. But it's been like that for years so I don't think that would suddenly cause a problem, but maybe if the older spring has lost elasticity faster than the new one . . .

I think there is a misalignment in the track since the door shudders a little when I open it manually - right about at the point that the door stops when I try to engage the opener.

 

[boomerang]

The springs are out of balance since I replaced one several years ago and never got around to doing the other one. I have 3 extra springs (2 doors) but I've never used them. But it's been like that for years so I don't think that would suddenly cause a problem, but maybe if the older spring has lost elasticity faster than the new one . . .

So don't repeat the mistake. Replace both springs now with a matched set if you feel that's the problem. It's much more important from the perspective of the operation of the door to replace both springs on an extension spring door (like you have) at the same time. On a door with torsion springs (like at the link), it's recommended to replace both because they are not only both cycling every time the door opens and closes and are likely to fail around the same time frame, but the labor to replace both is virtually the same as replacing one. For a homeowner that has to hire it out, they will very soon have people out again to replace the second spring and they will have to pay the labor twice. Once for each visit.

How would the track get out of alignment? Unless one is very loose I doubt that's the issue. You need to check your rollers visually and mechanically. When is the last time you lubricated them?

But you didn't remark on some of the items I brought up.

Are the springs adjusted correctly? Does the door raise with little effort? Will it stop and stay at different heights or at the least can it be easily supported by one person at different heights? In other words are the springs doing their job correctly to counterbalance the weight of the door?

How about those drive gears on the opener?

I ask these question because I am not there.

BTW, my wife managed a garage door company for about 23 years so I learned a little bit from her.

 

[Charmonium]

The house is pretty old and the tracks are mounted in wood beams so my guess is that vibration and age have caused the issue. But I won't know until I track down the precise problem. I might try to do that later today or over the weekend.

The tracks havent been lubricated in years but I used lithium grease last time and I'm not sure I have any now but that's a good idea. I'll put that on my shopping list.

As far as adjusting the springs, I really don't think that's an issue and I'd like to avoid replacing any springs until, well, spring. I might have to leave the door open for an extented period of time depending on how much goes wrong when I try to do the replacement and I wouldn't want to have to deal with that now.

But to answer your question, opening the door requires some effort but I can do it with one hand. These doors were designed to be opened manually and the most lifting effort is required for the first couple of feet since after that, you have one of the panels resting in the overhead tracks. So every couple of feet, there is less and less weight to manually lift as more panels rest overhead.

I'll see if I can inspect the drive gears w/o removing the cowling. I'll try to look at that next time I go down to work on the problem.

Thanks for the input and suggestions.

 

[boomerang]

The tracks havent been lubricated in years but I used lithium grease last time and I'm not sure I have any now but that's a good idea. I'll put that on my shopping list.

Don't lubricate the tracks, lubricate the rollers. They're just a low tolerance ball bearing setup but they should still be lubricated occasionally.

A properly counterbalanced door, and it sounds like yours is fine, should be easily lifted with an opener of even the lowest horsepower.

You're on the right track. No pun intended. Let us know how you make out.

 

[dbcooper1]

I've seen one or several of the brackets that attach the rollers to the door get loose and not track straight, putting additional load on the drive motor cause this problem as well. Also make sure the brackets attaching the rails are secure as well but this is probably less likely.

 

[Aikouka]

Hm, this is an interesting thread and it reminds me that I need to look into my garage door more. I used to have the same problem as the OP, but it only happened ever so often. After I switched to a newer garage door opener, I only ran into an issue once with it refusing to open the door. I do get a clanging/crunching noise whenever the door goes up, but it's far quieter when going down.

Don't lubricate the tracks, lubricate the rollers. They're just a low tolerance ball bearing setup but they should still be lubricated occasionally.

I read that it's worthwhile to clean the track with brake cleaner?

 

[Charmonium]

I've seen one or several of the brackets that attach the rollers to the door get loose and not track straight, putting additional load on the drive motor cause this problem as well. Also make sure the brackets attaching the rails are secure as well but this is probably less likely.

That's a good point. I'll check both the rollers and the track.

 

[boomerang]

Hm, this is an interesting thread and it reminds me that I need to look into my garage door more. I used to have the same problem as the OP, but it only happened ever so often. After I switched to a newer garage door opener, I only ran into an issue once with it refusing to open the door. I do get a clanging/crunching noise whenever the door goes up, but it's far quieter when going down.



I read that it's worthwhile to clean the track with brake cleaner?

We still retain the perk of free door maintenance at our house. The last time over, their best tech loaded the tracks with a heavy black oil. It kind of pissed me off because it dripped out both ends and made a mess before I even realized what was going on. We have some garage grade cabinets in the garage and I stack winter/summer floor mats on top of one. When I went to take the winter ones out this fall there was a black slimy mess on the topmost one that was under the end of the track.

So, the short answer that I made long is that the tech, whose been doing this work for nearly 30 years (their best one too) did the opposite of what you've heard to do. Edit: I should add that my wife was astounded that he oiled up the tracks because she said this same tech used to complain loudly about one of the other techs that did this.