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Gaming pick-ups thread - post pics!

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Got a couple more packages with surprises today...
The first was from an eBay seller I've ordered from before so I wasn't as surprised as to see this as I was last time:
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Ooo! Thanks for giving me a crack at it. 🙂 Definitely interested in Night Trap and the TurboPad if the price is right!
I don't have any prices for these so make me an offer you think is fair and I will do a little research on ebay and what not and see if I think it's fair.
 
Picked up Police Trainer board yesterday and Carnevil board today. Got a pretty damn good deal on Carnevil board since they do not come up very often.
 
All for the PS4, no more than $20 each;
  • Witcher 3 - like it
  • Boderlands 3 - don't like it, feels disjointed
  • Anthem - gah, hate it!
  • Overwatch - love it
  • Gravity Rush 2 - love it
  • Wipeout Omega - love it
  • Tearaway - love it
  • Titanfall 2 - love it
  • Star Wars Battlefront 2 - like it
 
$50 total from Facebook Marketplace in Virginia. All 4 games are basically new. And I was informed that The Legend Of Zelda, was only played twice ? And Super Ghouls N' Ghosts was played for a week..and packed away. 😀 All original wires / hookups are included as well.

EDIT: Oh...and absolutely NO YELLOWING !!!!


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I don't have any prices for these so make me an offer you think is fair and I will do a little research on ebay and what not and see if I think it's fair.

I don't know why I'm not getting notifications for this thread. 🙁

Thanks! I'll take a look tonight and send you a PM. 🙂

$50 total from Facebook Marketplace in Virginia. All 4 games are basically new. And I was informed that The Legend Of Zelda, was only played twice ? And Super Ghouls N' Ghosts was played for a week..and packed away. 😀 All original wires / hookups are included as well.

EDIT: Oh...and absolutely NO YELLOWING !!!!


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Sweeeet! $50 is a steal for those though I'm a little skeptical of the seller's claims if they are saying they were the original owner... mostly because that controller variant is from 1997. It does look like a personal collection that stopped growing in/before 1993 since all cartridges are the older shape that can lock into the consoles that still have a locking mechanism (eliminated and circumvented later on).

Speaking of which:
Yours doesn't have the sticker warning about inserting/removing the cartridge while the power is on. Does the cartridge flap still open when you slide the power switch up? Does it have four rubber feet or two? It seems Nintendo got the plastic mix right later on but I've never seen one with the locking mechanism and four rubber feet that didn't have at least two yellowed parts!
 
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So last night I went to hookup Police Trainer to my Maximum Force cabinet and it was working but with no sound. I wasn't feeling good so decided to fuck around with it today.

So today I was looking at my JAMMA harness and realized that the speakers aren't even wired into it. There is an external plug on the Maximum Force board that the speaker harness was plugged into.

So I just wired up my speaker into the JAMMA harness, plugged it back in, and bam it works like a charm with sound. Game is a fun little mini game. It will be fun with 2 people competing for sure.

 
I don't know why I'm not getting notifications for this thread. 🙁

Thanks! I'll take a look tonight and send you a PM. 🙂



Sweeeet! $50 is a steal for those though I'm a little skeptical of the seller's claims if they are saying they were the original owner... mostly because that controller variant is from 1997. It does look like a personal collection that stopped growing in/before 1993 since all cartridges are the older shape that can lock into the consoles that still have a locking mechanism (eliminated and circumvented later on).

Speaking of which:
Yours doesn't have the sticker warning about inserting/removing the cartridge while the power is on. Does the cartridge flap still open when you slide the power switch up? Does it have four rubber feet or two? It seems Nintendo got the plastic mix right later one but I've never seen one with the locking mechanism and four rubber feet that didn't have at least two yellowed parts!
The console itself is from the "Control Deck" set. At least that is what is on the pamphlets. But yea, the Nintendo logo is stamped into the controller....which based on what I could find, is the Control Deck set.

Back in the day, I bought a SNES when they first launched. And even that one, nor the few I had since then...none of them opened the flap when the power switch was turned on. Or are you talking about the game lock ? That slides forward to secure the game ? Cause the game lock was removed in the later models...that is why some of the cartridges were redesigned as well.

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Ah, you are referring to the game lock. This one don't have that.....and the FCC number on the bottom, and the "eject" writing on the eject button is both raised.
 
Ah, you are referring to the game lock. This one don't have that.....and the FCC number on the bottom, and the "eject" writing on the eject button is both raised.
Yep. That's a good thing because the earliest ones have the worst video quality and have a high failure rate. I've seen bad PPU1, bad PPU2, bad CPU, and most common by far: RF-only due to some sync failure with the video encoder/amplification. These all have SHVC-CPU-01 boards inside with a modular APU for the SPC700 so they weigh more. They also have the locking mechanism, a foil serial number sticker, and four rubber feet.

The oval logo controller variant was introduced with the cost-reduced SHVC-101 (Super Famicom Jr) and SNS-101 (smaller SNES with no eject lever or power light) so that they could have one international controller shell design so you'll see both SNES and SFC emblems on the bottom. That model SNES landed in 1997... after the N64. They did sell the controllers separately but the box was distinct with Mario RPG characters. I have seen boxed counterfeits that also copied this box but yours is clearly not one of those.

Perhaps they lost their controller and bought another so that they could sell it... otherwise it doesn't look like the original owners put it away after playing Zelda twice. By the time that controller came around stores had long run out of stock of the locking Zelda and it never got a retail reprint until Nintendo re-released it in the Player's Choice Million Seller series (distinctly different shell ND label). I know because I bought my SNES Feb '94 and was paying close attention to reprints, hoping to get one that matched the rest of my collection (yes, I was THAT kid). 🙂 The only non-Player's Choice Million Seller copies with the new cartridge shell design were sold as console bonus bundles (sticker on the box kind as opposed to a new "set").

If they weren't purporting to be the original owners it would be a little pointless for them to promote that they only played it twice but *shrug* who knows.

OK, I'm done nerding out about that stuff for now. 🙂 I strongly suggest an FX PAK/SD2SNES and Retro Gaming Cables RAD2x HDMI cables (or HD Retrovision + RetroTink 2X).

The FXPAK let's you download and play pretty much every SNES game ever made, including the special chip games, from an SD card. No emulation. That's what makes it worth the price.

The RGC RAD2x cables may sound like overkill but we have no decent way to use RGB video on North American televisions and modern TVs don't properly support the SNES console's 240p resolution. All the junk HDMI cables/converters have the same problem, even when made specifically for the SNES. They deinterlace non-interlaced 240p which adds latency, blurs movement, and causes visual artifacts that can ruin the game.

For example, your character might flash at 60hz to simulate transparency when you get hit as a way for the game to let you know you are invincible for a moment. A modern TV will show you alternately solid or invisible, which has you floundering around trying to find yourself until you jump down the pit or worse (become visible/vulnerable again while inside an enemy and die instantly).

A game might alternately flash powerups at 60hz to stay below the limit for simultaneous sprites and reduce slow-down but then the power ups appear invisible or appear/disappear every couple seconds.

Other games flash power-ups when they are about to disappear but they may appear solid, fooling you to spend your time doing something else until it is too late to grab them.

If you have an S-Video capable tube TV then you can get most of the way to good video with a cheap cable but the vast majority are wired incorrectly so that they will work with SNS-101. Chroma is connected to composite video which causes diagonal lines of interference mostly visible in areas of solid color.
 
The lady did not specify if Zelda was played twice on this console or not.....and at the time she said the cart was only played twice, it never crossed my mind to ask about the console itself...probably because I was in awe of the nice condition it was in..lol. And id have to say the controller is probably new as well, I took it apart last night to check the button rubber....and all rubber inside "silicone"? was in prefect mint condition.

All four of these games....has the groove for the cartridge lock though.
 
Yep. That's a good thing because the earliest ones have the worst video quality and have a high failure rate. I've seen bad PPU1, bad PPU2, bad CPU, and most common by far: RF-only due to some sync failure with the video encoder/amplification. These all have SHVC-CPU-01 boards inside with a modular APU for the SPC700 so they weigh more. They also have the locking mechanism, a foil serial number sticker, and four rubber feet.

The oval logo controller variant was introduced with the cost-reduced SHVC-101 (Super Famicom Jr) and SNS-101 (smaller SNES with no eject lever or power light) so that they could have one international controller shell design so you'll see both SNES and SFC emblems on the bottom. That model SNES landed in 1997... after the N64. They did sell the controllers separately but the box was distinct with Mario RPG characters. I have seen boxed counterfeits that also copied this box but yours is clearly not one of those.

Perhaps they lost their controller and bought another so that they could sell it... otherwise it doesn't look like the original owners put it away after playing Zelda twice. By the time that controller came around stores had long run out of stock of the locking Zelda and it never got a retail reprint until Nintendo re-released it in the Player's Choice Million Seller series (distinctly different shell ND label). I know because I bought my SNES Feb '94 and was paying close attention to reprints, hoping to get one that matched the rest of my collection (yes, I was THAT kid). 🙂 The only non-Player's Choice Million Seller copies with the new cartridge shell design were sold as console bonus bundles (sticker on the box kind as opposed to a new "set").

If they weren't purporting to be the original owners it would be a little pointless for them to promote that they only played it twice but *shrug* who knows.

OK, I'm done nerding out about that stuff for now. 🙂 I strongly suggest an FX PAK/SD2SNES and Retro Gaming Cables RAD2x HDMI cables (or HD Retrovision + RetroTink 2X).

The FXPAK let's you download and play pretty much every SNES game ever made, including the special chip games, from an SD card. No emulation. That's what makes it worth the price.

The RGC RAD2x cables may sound like overkill but we have no decent way to use RGB video on North American televisions and modern TVs don't properly support the SNES console's 240p resolution. All the junk HDMI cables/converters have the same problem, even when made specifically for the SNES. They deinterlace non-interlaced 240p which adds latency, blurs movement, and causes visual artifacts that can ruin the game.

For example, your character might flash at 60hz to simulate transparency when you get hit as a way for the game to let you know you are invincible for a moment. A modern TV will show you alternately solid or invisible, which has you floundering around trying to find yourself until you jump down the pit or worse (become visible/vulnerable again while inside an enemy and die instantly).

A game might alternately flash powerups at 60hz to stay below the limit for simultaneous sprites and reduce slow-down but then the power ups appear invisible or appear/disappear every couple seconds.

Other games flash power-ups when they are about to disappear but they may appear solid, fooling you to spend your time doing something else until it is too late to grab them.

If you have an S-Video capable tube TV then you can get most of the way to good video with a cheap cable but the vast majority are wired incorrectly so that they will work with SNS-101. Chroma is connected to composite video which causes diagonal lines of interference mostly visible in areas of solid color.
Ah, I see where the confusion is. The lady told me that the Zelda game was only played twice. She never mentioned the console, or if she was the original owner of it. It was the Zelda game...that was put away after being played twice.

Edit: I should also add that the console itself was a little dusty.....lady didnt have the box, but had the pamphlets. Anyway, the console was kind of dirty / dusty. But cleaned up really well. And again, the biggest plus for me...is no yellowing.

So are you saying, this unit is a better one for RGB ? Or the earlier ones ? At the moment, I do not have a S-Video TV.....But...I do know about them and have seen a few being givien away for free on Facebook Marketplace. I plan on having a seperate room for my consoles. And id like to have my Genesis / SNES / NES and so forth, on a older TV.

Right now I have it hooked up to a 55in 4K Samsung. And I know it still dont run that resolution lol...or anywhere near it....but in my opinion, I dont think it looks bad at all. But still gonna go with an older set for the game room. How much of a difference can I expect with S-Video ? I have a ton of S-Video wire sets though.
 
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Ah, I see where the confusion is. The lady told me that the Zelda game was only played twice. She never mentioned the console, or if she was the original owner of it. It was the Zelda game...that was put away after being played twice.

Edit: I should also add that the console itself was a little dusty.....lady didnt have the box, but had the pamphlets. Anyway, the console was kind of dirty / dusty. But cleaned up really well. And again, the biggest plus for me...is no yellowing.

So are you saying, this unit is a better one for RGB ? Or the earlier ones ? At the moment, I do not have a S-Video TV.....But...I do know about them and have seen a few being givien away for free on Facebook Marketplace. I plan on having a seperate room for my consoles. And id like to have my Genesis / SNES / NES and so forth, on a older TV.

Right now I have it hooked up to a 55in 4K Samsung. And I know it still dont run that resolution lol...or anywhere near it....but in my opinion, I dont think it looks bad at all. But still gonna go with an older set for the game room. How much of a difference can I expect with S-Video ? I have a ton of S-Video wire sets though.

Yeah, it will have better video quality compared to the the first several board revisions. The later "1chip" boards have even better video quality but those are essentially the same chips that go into clone and counterfeit consoles and come with other issues, like graphical glitches in some games. Yours should have better compatibility than a 1chip with notably superior video quality compared to earlier models. It's the sweet spot, IMO.

The only modern TVs I know of that *sometimes* process the SNES' 240p resolution correctly are Samsung and Sony, so I wonder if yours is seeing it as 240p... probably not over composite though. My KDL-52XBR2 supports 240p over S-Video and YPbPr component but only reports "NTSC" (480i) when I connect with composite (deinterlaces non-interlaced video when scaling).

The difference between composite and S-Video is WAY more than the difference between S-Video and YPbPr component, so I probably wouldn't buy one of those premium HD Retrovision RGB-to-YPbPr component cables if I were using a S-Video-capable CRT. On a decent display you should be able to resolved significantly clearer/sharper pixels and sharp text. I've taken those $3 S-Video cables that use composite video and moved the pins around to correct for their erroneous pinout but they still aren't the best (noise/interference). They look a heck of a lot better, regardless.
 
The Angry Video Game Nerd collects old hardware and games, but he has a heck of a time getting them to function properly. Even though emulation is a pain, I think I'd rather do that than collect a lot of junk and fill up my basement with TV's and consoles.
 
The Angry Video Game Nerd collects old hardware and games, but he has a heck of a time getting them to function properly. Even though emulation is a pain, I think I'd rather do that than collect a lot of junk and fill up my basement with TV's and consoles.
Emulation comes with similar concerns regarding speed, accuracy, resolution scaling, input latency, color palette, pixel size/shape, etc. I've been emulating since 1996 but I still prefer original hardware. Example: few enthusiasts are happy with a laggy NES Classic Edition versus the real thing, and I'm not just talking about errant diagonals on the replica controller. Some sound effects are off, the resolution doesn't scale properly on a 1080p display, the added epilepsy filter causes weird effects and further increases latency, there are changes/edits to the original games (censorship!), etc.

The first time I beat Ninja Gaiden was official emulation on the Wii Virtual Console and yet the ending was totally glitched: the crumbling castle doesn't go away (still standing). For such a hard game this was kind of a let-down.

With a compatible TV no one has to put enthusiast-level effort into original hardware but some of us prefer to since we're bothering to have it around in the first place. 🙂 Pro-gamers competing for world records have to use original hardware even for retro games (still the most competitive speedrunning games by far). As expensive as collecting retrogames can be it's typically way cheaper than back in the day with a notable exceptions (of course). You can fill a shelf with more games than you ever dreamed of as a kid for surprisingly little money.
 
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Wired up the new monitor sync wire that Carnevil requires and got my guns calibrated and dialed in and gave the first level a go. I had never played this game but it's pretty fun. Definitely has the HOTD vibe going on lol. The dark humor in it is pretty good too. Here's full play through of that level.

 
I really don't have much to go off of other than eBay prices and it looks like ones sold in the US are like $30 - $40 or so for the most part, completed and sold, after shipping.

I'd do like $25 shipped in a padded mailer, like first class.

I also have to say that I haven't tested this thing out in probably 2 decades but I would assume it still works fine. Just want to be up front lol.

I took some pics of some older gaming stuff I found in a closet like 3 weeks ago. Let me know if any of this interests you too.


Do those RB drums work? My RB4 set stopped working out of nowhere so I've been looking to fix them or replace them. If those are in pretty good condition and working I'd be interested in them.
 
Emulation comes with similar concerns regarding speed, accuracy, resolution scaling, input latency, color palette, pixel size/shape, etc. I've been emulating since 1996 but I still prefer original hardware. Example: few enthusiasts are happy with a laggy NES Classic Edition versus the real thing, and I'm not just talking about errant diagonals on the replica controller. Some sound effects are off, the resolution doesn't scale properly on a 1080p display, the added epilepsy filter causes weird effects and further increases latency, there are changes/edits to the original games (censorship!), etc.

The first time I beat Ninja Gaiden was official emulation on the Wii Virtual Console and yet the ending was totally glitched: the crumbling castle doesn't go away (still standing). For such a hard game this was kind of a let-down.

With a compatible TV no one has to put enthusiast-level effort into original hardware but some of us prefer to since we're bothering to have it around in the first place. 🙂 Pro-gamers competing for world records have to use original hardware even for retro games (still the most competitive speedrunning games by far). As expensive as collecting retrogames can be it's typically way cheaper than back in the day with a notable exceptions (of course). You can fill a shelf with more games than you ever dreamed of as a kid for surprisingly little money.
I have tried emulation over the years.....and while it is fine. I just do not seem to get the same feeling when I am using an Xbox controller. Seems for me, I have to have the originals to want to play it. The emulators I actually was using at one point in time....have all since been deleted. And im one of those guys too, I have to see the original cart sticking out of the top of a SNES. I am not against upgrading with something like the HD Retrovision cables. But id prefer not to have to mod the SNES. I like keeping things original.
 
Do those RB drums work? My RB4 set stopped working out of nowhere so I've been looking to fix them or replace them. If those are in pretty good condition and working I'd be interested in them.
They worked last time I used them which was probably 8 or so years ago. They look to be in fantastic condition. I take care of my stuff and honestly didn't even use em much once the initial fun wore off. They do have the official sound dampening pads on them too.

If you are seriously interested, when I get back from vacation I can try to test them out. I don't have Rockband anymore though so if they just work as normal controls on Xbox 360, I could probably test em out.
 
They worked last time I used them which was probably 8 or so years ago. They look to be in fantastic condition. I take care of my stuff and honestly didn't even use em much once the initial fun wore off. They do have the official sound dampening pads on them too.

If you are seriously interested, when I get back from vacation I can try to test them out. I don't have Rockband anymore though so if they just work as normal controls on Xbox 360, I could probably test em out.
They should work as normal controllers (they do on PS3/PS4 anyway).
 
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