gaming computer-first build

[mikep9292]

-This computer will be used for gaming (arma 2, total war series, stalker), microsoft office, web browsing, video streaming, and movies.
-My budget is $400-$500 without OS, monitor, keyboard, or mouse included.
-I live on the east coast of the usa.
-No brand preferences
-I will not be reusing any parts from a previous computer.
-Since this is my first build i do not plan on overclocking anything
-I'm currently using 1440x900, but I'm open to suggestion as to which resolution is best for gaming (with 17 or 19 inch monitor)
-The plan is to have it ready within the next 2-4 weeks
-Will be purchasing windows 7 64 bit
-Need wifi and DVD±RW/CD-RW
-I plan on buying most parts off newegg or amazon, but i also live with 25 minutes of a microcenter so i can get one of those cpu/mobo combos everyone is talking about.

preliminary specs
-1GB video memory
-8GB RAM
-At least 700GB memory

-As I have never built a computer before any advice, tips, or constructive criticism is welcome.

 

[Sleepingforest]

Tada:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-3220 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($122.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Biostar H77MU3 Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: PNY Optima 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($43.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.99 @ Microcenter)
Video Card: MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB Video Card ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.90 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $476.80
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-03 17:39 EST-0500)

Add in a simple WiFi PCI card for $10.

 

[Torn Mind]

Hmm, that Caviar Blue is a Refurb. Well, if the the buyer didn't want one or if the printed circuit board was the problem and it was fixed, then getting a refurb is okay. But if it's something within the drive itself, you're getting a dud destined for an RMA.

 

[mfenn]

You'll definitely want to take advantage of MicroCenter's i3 3225 + $50 off mobo combo.

i3 3225 + MSI B75MA-E33 combo $125 @ MC
Kingston DDR3 1333 8GB $44
MSI GTX 650 Ti $130 AR
Toshiba 7200RPM 1TB $60 AP
Lite-ON DVD Burner $18
Corsair CX430 $20 AR AP
NZXT Source 210 $40
Rosewill 802.11n $25
Total: $462 AR AP

This takes advantage of the MC CPU+Mobo combo to get you a somewhat faster GPU.

 

[mikep9292]

So it looks like a trip out to microcenter is a must. What kind of reputation does toshiba have for reliability? I ask because on newegg there is a pretty high percentage of bad reviews. Only 51% gave 4 stars or higher, while 42% gave 2 or lower. I would rather spend a little extra for reliability than get the cheapest possible drive and have it crash on me.

 

[Sleepingforest]

Most of those one stars are probably from bad shipping practices. That's the case on all HDDs you mail order. Going in person greatly reduces the chance of getting a bad drive.

 

[mikep9292]

Most of those one stars are probably from bad shipping practices. That's the case on all HDDs you mail order. Going in person greatly reduces the chance of getting a bad drive.

In that case I can just grab one when i go to microcenter for the cpu/mobo.
There has been a lot of talk about the advantages of SSD over HDD, do you think it is worth getting one on my budget? I can afford to go a bit over if the SSD is really worth it.

 

[Sleepingforest]

It'll cost you roughly $100 for a 128GB drive and $70-80 for a 64GB one. Get Samsung 840 (non-pro) or Crucial M4. You can get the 64GB just for the OS and a game or two alongside the conventional HDD or you could skip the HDD and just get the 128GB SSD (four or so games, plus the OS and a few programs).

 

[mfenn]

It'll cost you roughly $100 for a 128GB drive and $70-80 for a 64GB one. Get Samsung 840 (non-pro) or Crucial M4. You can get the 64GB just for the OS and a game or two alongside the conventional HDD or you could skip the HDD and just get the 128GB SSD (four or so games, plus the OS and a few programs).

I'd say to get a 128GB drive as the minimum, don't bother with 64GB ones anymore. A Samsung 840 120GB is a good deal at $95 if you can up the budget.

 

[mfenn]

So it looks like a trip out to microcenter is a must. What kind of reputation does toshiba have for reliability? I ask because on newegg there is a pretty high percentage of bad reviews. Only 51% gave 4 stars or higher, while 42% gave 2 or lower. I would rather spend a little extra for reliability than get the cheapest possible drive and have it crash on me.

I agree with SF here. There is really no statistically significant difference between HDD failure rates when you look at a bunch of drives. Self-reporting by consumers on review sites is way to biased a sample to draw any conclusions.

 

[mikep9292]

It took a little longer than i thought but i got all the parts together. My final parts list was as follows.
-core i3 3225 3.3GHz LGA 1155-$119.99
-Z77A-G41 LGA 1155 ATX-$44.99 AR
-1TB DT01ACA100 HDD-$59.99
-840 series MZ-7TD120BW SSD-$79.99
-Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB DDR3 (PC3-10600) CL Dual Channel Memory Kit (2x4GB)-$49.99
-Gigabyte GV-N650OC-2GI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650HD-$119.99 AR
-Corsair CX series CX430M 430W ATX-$44.99 AR
-Raptor ATX mid tower case-$19.99 AR
-Total of $539.92
Obviously the SSD put me a bit over budget but I think it is worth it. I put all the parts together last night but when I went to turn it on nothing happened. No fans, no lights, no noise. What could have gone wrong?

 

[jaedaliu]

Obviously the SSD put me a bit over budget but I think it is worth it. I put all the parts together last night but when I went to turn it on nothing happened. No fans, no lights, no noise. What could have gone wrong?

I'd start with making sure everything's plugged in right. Power supply turned on, and that your power switch is attached to the right pins on the motherboard.

Make sure you plugged in both power leads to the motherboard.

 

[mikep9292]

Good news and bad news. Good news is I found the problem, bad news is that it is the case switch. When i jumpered the leads for the power switch it turned right on. While its not the worst thing that could go wrong it means that everything has to come out and all the time i spent making the wiring look pretty was wasted.

 

[mikep9292]

Thanks for the help though

 

[mfenn]

Sorry to hear that.

You don't really need that case switch now do you? Just run a few bare leads to the outside of the case and touch them together when you want to start 'er up. :awe:

 

[Torn Mind]

Might be able to set ACPI to start the computer up by moving the mouse or hitting the keyboard. But not every mobo has these options.

 

[DSF]

Sorry to hear that.

You don't really need that case switch now do you? Just run a few bare leads to the outside of the case and touch them together when you want to start 'er up. :awe:

Kinda like hotwiring your computer every time you want to start it up. It has a certain kooky appeal. I might try that on a junk build some time.

 

[xXdragonbatXX]

Forest always has the best build lol

If you buy online thru microcenter,t hey want over $17 for shipping so amazon or newegg would be a better choice in shipping terms.

 

[mikep9292]

I live about 25 minutes from a microcenter so i just drove over there to get my stuff. They were pretty cool about the exchange too.

 

[mikep9292]

Sorry to hear that.

You don't really need that case switch now do you? Just run a few bare leads to the outside of the case and touch them together when you want to start 'er up. :awe:

With all the time I spent making the wiring look good I was tempted to do that. :biggrin: The build runs great now, I'm on it right now actually. Thank you to everyone here who helped me.