Fry's E2xxx/E4xxx Bundle Overclocking Thread

[htne]

I have sucessfully used a toothpick around a half-dozen times. Hopefully the overclock will work out better for you than it did for me.

 

[Wolfcastle]

Anybody know what the blue dot is in this pic? http://www.ocforums.com/showpo...p=4934968&postcount=87

If he's just trying to make a conductive line from yellow to red, the explanation is overly complicated.

 

[Wolfcastle]

Originally posted by: quadomatic
I just picked up a rear window defogger kit and some PVC electric tape. I just have some last few questions before I do a 1.55v mod and BSEL mod to 1066 on my E2200 to use in the ECS 945GCT-M (3.0).

Does this picture match what I would need to do for 1.55v and 1066fsb bsel mod on the E2200?:

http://img147.imageshack.us/im...7428/bseland155ni9.jpg

Also, how should I apply the defogger kit fluid? Should I use the brush that came with it? Others have said to use a toothpick, but I'm not sure.

Hopefully I'll have success with this.

Apparently there is another way to do the BSEL on E2200. Here is the link.

http://www.ocforums.com/showpo...p=4934968&postcount=87

However, I have no idea what actually needs to be done as people just assume that everybody has the correct information. The information that's going around is pretty shoddy, and it's not clear which one works for what processors.

 

[Wolfcastle]

Originally posted by: larciel
I've heard that ECS board has some protection that disables modded FSB and get it back to factory stock settings.

It is confirmed on the ecs 945gct-m board. I haven't tried it on my G31 board yet

Did you only hear it or has it actually been confirmed? Do you have a source for this information? And if so, can you provide it? Thanks.

 

[mrchan]

So I did the 1066 BSEL mod and the 1.55 volt mod (cpuz shows 1.42) on my e2200 and it worked perfectly.

I went to try the 1333 mod my taping up the pin and it doesn't seem to do anything. Computer boots right up at 1066. Thinking it was making contact b/c the electrical tape was two thin, i put two layers on, computer still boot up at 1066. This is with the latest bios too... I know 1333 isn't likely to happen, but I'd like to at least give it a shot....

This is the 1333 mod I tried...
http://inlinethumb42.webshots....3660723S600x600Q85.jpg

Any ideas?

 

[manko]

I am trying to get this BSEL mod to work with the ECS 945GCT-M/1333 (V3.0) at 1066 along with the 1.45v mod. I used copper tape and matched the photos posted. My BIOS shows CPU VCore 1.408V, but CPU-Z shows the CPU running at stock 2.2GHz.

Speedstep is disabled in the BIOS, is there anything else I need to change in the ECS BIOS to get the BSEL speed to work? The Frequency/Voltage control says 200MHz (and it's greyed-out, so I can't select it).

Any other tips to get this working? The machine is booting and stable. I am not getting the boot error, so I guess my BSEL connection isn't working. I will try to re-tape the connection if there aren't any other things to try.

Thanks for your help.

 

[manko]

Nevermind my previous post. I pulled the CPU and re-did the BSEL mod (and volt mod for good measure). I was using short strips of copper tape with the sticky side down. So, for my first attempt at the BSEL mod, I had 3 tiny pieces overlapping to form a "C" shape and the sticky side contacting the pins. Apparently, that didn't work.

My second try, I cut the copper tape out as one single piece and also folded over the ends at the contact points over the pins. Now, it's working.


NEW QUESTIONS:


I'm running with the 266/1066 BSEL mod and 1.45V mod. CPU-Z shows 2926MHz and voltage around 1.376V.

I'm now running Orthos Small FFTs (40 minutes so far). CoreTemp 0.99, with a Tj. Max of 85C, shows my current load temps as 82-83C. Idle is around 40C. Is this way TOO HOT for Orthos? I'm using the stock fan with Artic Silver.

I've been searching around and it seems that CoreTemp may be mis-reporting or the Tj. Max may be wrong (off by as much as 15C). I heard CoreTemp 0.96 might be more accurate, but it wouldn't run for me in Vista 64.

Has anyone run CoreTemp 0.99 with a stress test on an overclocked E2XXX? What temps are you seeing? 83C seems high, but if it's 15C over-reporting, then it would be closer to 68C.

I'm going to leave it running for now.


One more thing, in CPU-Z I see the Core Speed bouncing up and down from 2926MHz / 11x multiplier to 1595MHz and a 6x multiplier. I'm sure that Speedstep is off and I have the Power setting on maximum performance. Why am I seeing this Core Speed/Multiplier bouncing up and down? Is it really changing or is CPU-Z just mis-reporting because of the BSEL mod?

 

[shiro]

I got this e2200 + 945gct-m combo months ago, and tried to do the bsel mod following this picture:

http://i100.photobucket.com/al...kninja/success1xz8.jpg

but it did not work. It's not that it wouldn't boot up or anything, it booted up fine, but cpu-z said everything was as plain as stock. I redid the mod again and...same thing. I redid the mod probably 5 or more times using rear window defogger paint and a toothpick, but none of them worked. Each time it booted into my system just fine, but everything was shown as stock speeds. My friend showed me another method where I had to tape some pin and paint over it, but that didn't work either...

Anybody have this same problem? After my first time, I noticed that I must have caked on a bit too much of the defogger paint or something and it crumbled and fell in between the socket pins. I blew away as much of it as I could with compressed air, but it looked like either it stained something or there's some down in there, but since my failures, I've been running completely stock with 0 problems for months now.

Does anybody have any other suggestions on how to mod this sucker? I got a new zalman cnps9700 heatsink so before I go through the trouble of sticking that sucker on, I want to find out one more time if I can mod this thing.

 

[manko]

Originally posted by: shiro
I got this e2200 + 945gct-m combo months ago, and tried to do the bsel mod following this picture:

http://i100.photobucket.com/al...kninja/success1xz8.jpg

but it did not work. It's not that it wouldn't boot up or anything, it booted up fine, but cpu-z said everything was as plain as stock. I redid the mod again and...same thing. I redid the mod probably 5 or more times using rear window defogger paint and a toothpick, but none of them worked. Each time it booted into my system just fine, but everything was shown as stock speeds.

Well, those are the same pins I connected and it didn't work for me the first time either.

It worked on my second try though. You really have to make sure there is an electrical connection. I have the V3 version of the 945GCT-M, I'm not sure if that makes a difference.

I used copper tape instead of the defogger. You have to do some really fine cutting with an xacto knife. It takes some practice, but after doing it 3 or 4 times for different volt mods, it's not so bad. Also, I had to cut it in one solid piece and fold over the ends, so the copper side touched the contact points, rather than the sticky side.

copper tape

 

[shiro]

hmm thanks for the suggestion. I'll give that a try sometime.

For people who've done the bsel mod, is the volt mod really necessary for it to run stable?

Also, can somebody suggest what timings to use for memory for a respectable boost if I were to get the cpu to oc with the bsel mod? I've never messed with memory timings before so I'm total noob at it lol. I'm using 2x 1gb HP smartbuy ddr2 sticks with micron chips in dual channel mode.

cpu-z says they are running at
dram freq: 333
fsb:dram: 3:5
CL: 5.0
tRCD: 5
tRP: 5
tRAS 15
tRC 21

I've no idea what each of those mean lol. They are running completetly stock though.

 

[manko]

Originally posted by: shiro
For people who've done the bsel mod, is the volt mod really necessary for it to run stable?

I tried BSEL without a volt mod and Windows booted and I could browse the web, but Orthos (CPU stress test) crashed in seconds. The odd thing was that this chip or this motherboard (or the combination) really seems to undervolt itself. So, without the volt mod, CPU-Z showed voltage of 1.20 and 1.21. For the few seconds I ran Orthos, the voltage dropped even lower to 1.18. I think this voltage drop is why it crashed.

Anyway, to get it stable with Orthos, I did the 1.4V mod. My CPU-Z showed 1.248V - 1.264V with this mod and it dropped the voltage down to 1.232V under load. So, if these readings are correct, that means it was running well below the "default" stock volt which is supposed to be 1.35V (or is that maximum stock voltage?). Some people have looked this up and said the actual stock voltage for this chip is 1.28V.

Either way, for me the 1.4V mod results in lower voltages than the supposed stock, default voltages for this chip. I only have this ECS motherboard to test with. I would be interested to hear what default voltage this chip runs at in other motherboards.

The 1.4V mod was completely stable for 8 hours under full load testing with Orthos. (But it was getting very hot, up to 68C).

I had originally tested with the 1.45V mod which was also stable, but even hotter. With the 1.45V mod, CPU-Z showed 1.376V.

I haven't done anything with memory yet. I'm not sure you can do much on this board.

Here's my thread about temperatures with this combo:
E2200 @ 2.9GHz Temperatures

 

[manko]

A quick update, my E2200 BSEL 2.92 with a 1.4V mod scores a 5.6 Processor rating on the Windows Experience Index. That seems pretty decent for a dirt cheap combo.

From the reported actual volts in CPU-Z, I think the processor has a bit more overclocking headroom, if it was put in another motherboard with proper overclocking settings. Of course, that would double the cost for a few hundred extra MHz.

 

[shiro]

soooo yea...

I tried using copper tape this time the one you showed me from Fry's. Took a long while to cut it to size and shape and I finally got it and stuck it on.

Booted up and......nothing.
Still ran as if it were stock. No errors, no nothing. Bios says it was runing 2.2Ghz (200x11), just like the previous five or six times I've tried and failed with the defogger paint :

My cpu just absolutely refuses to overclock. Maybe I got a lemon? I got this cpu back in January so its a bit past the return period lol. Oh well not like it's broken or anything. It still runs well and better than the AMD x2 that it replaced. I suppose my best bet to overlock would just be to get a motherboard with overclocking options now. Wish I'd known about Fry's clearance motherboards. They had a refurb Abit that looke up and had overclocking options for like $10....about $2 more than what I paid for the copper tape and some Arctic Silver 5 I picked up as well lol.


edit:

Originally posted by: larciel
I've heard that ECS board has some protection that disables modded FSB and get it back to factory stock settings.

It is confirmed on the ecs 945gct-m board. I haven't tried it on my G31 board yet

hm...my cpu's refusal to oc have something to do with that? The 945gct-m is the one I have.

 

[quadomatic]

Originally posted by: shiro
soooo yea...

I tried using copper tape this time the one you showed me from Fry's. Took a long while to cut it to size and shape and I finally got it and stuck it on.

Booted up and......nothing.
Still ran as if it were stock. No errors, no nothing. Bios says it was runing 2.2Ghz (200x11), just like the previous five or six times I've tried and failed with the defogger paint :

My cpu just absolutely refuses to overclock. Maybe I got a lemon? I got this cpu back in January so its a bit past the return period lol. Oh well not like it's broken or anything. It still runs well and better than the AMD x2 that it replaced. I suppose my best bet to overlock would just be to get a motherboard with overclocking options now. Wish I'd known about Fry's clearance motherboards. They had a refurb Abit that looke up and had overclocking options for like $10....about $2 more than what I paid for the copper tape and some Arctic Silver 5 I picked up as well lol.


edit:

Originally posted by: larciel
I've heard that ECS board has some protection that disables modded FSB and get it back to factory stock settings.

It is confirmed on the ecs 945gct-m board. I haven't tried it on my G31 board yet

hm...my cpu's refusal to oc have something to do with that? The 945gct-m is the one I have.

Wow, I didn't think this thread was getting any usage.

You really aught to use Rear Window Defogger Paint. Most people have been successful with that. I imagine it would stay better than the foil or tape.

Also, the volt mod is definitely necessary. It won't stay stable without it.

If you've already tried defogger paint, I would suggest using tape to cover up the other pins. You need to make sure you don't touch the electric tape to anything before it touches the CPU, because it becomes a lot less stickier then, and the paint can then seep through.

manko: This cheapo motherboard has terrible vDroop, so I guess that's to be expected. I'm pretty sure 68 degrees Celsius is okay though. I did a 1.55vcore mod on mine, and I'm okay. As long as you have sufficient cooling you'll be fine.

 

[shiro]

yea actually for one of the takes I did with the defogger paint I actually did use tape to mask off some pins, yet that still didn't work either...

I mean I don't think I suck at this so much that after 6 tries including defogger paint and copper tape that I've messed up each time. I did manage to mod my old amd chip after all using defogger paint and regular scotch tape, and that took even more precision work than this. I really don't know what the problem is here...

 

[manko]

Originally posted by: shiro
yea actually for one of the takes I did with the defogger paint I actually did use tape to mask off some pins, yet that still didn't work either...

I mean I don't think I suck at this so much that after 6 tries including defogger paint and copper tape that I've messed up each time. I did manage to mod my old amd chip after all using defogger paint and regular scotch tape, and that took even more precision work than this. I really don't know what the problem is here...

I could be wrong, but I don't think you can have a chip where this doesn't work if you make the right electrical connections. You might have one that isn't stable at any voltage, but it should still go to 266 and give you a BIOS error before it crashes.

Some people had recommended testing the mod traced between the two pins with a voltmeter, but I'm not exactly sure how that works, so I can't explain it.

I've seen other comments that some versions of this board possibly ignore the mod and won't give you anything other than the stock settings. I don't know if that's true or not.

Originally posted by: quadomatic
manko: This cheapo motherboard has terrible vDroop, so I guess that's to be expected. I'm pretty sure 68 degrees Celsius is okay though. I did a 1.55vcore mod on mine, and I'm okay. As long as you have sufficient cooling you'll be fine.

Well, I picked up an open box Zalman and I moved everything to my new case. So far, with the 1.4V mod the Zalman seems to have lowered my temps 8C on the high end, so now I'm around 59-60C with Orthos. I don't think it will go above the 50s in any normal situation now and it seems to stay in the low-mid 40s during mildly stressful activities (7zip) and mid 30s while browsing or playing videos.

 

[quadomatic]

Originally posted by: shiro
yea actually for one of the takes I did with the defogger paint I actually did use tape to mask off some pins, yet that still didn't work either...

I mean I don't think I suck at this so much that after 6 tries including defogger paint and copper tape that I've messed up each time. I did manage to mod my old amd chip after all using defogger paint and regular scotch tape, and that took even more precision work than this. I really don't know what the problem is here...

What did you use to apply the paint? I used a toothpick, which is what, I think, most everyone recommends you use. The brush included in the kit certainly will not work.

Try using a multimeter to test the connections. It should be set to test for resistance. If you get resistance between the points you're testing, then the connection is good.

 

[Zap]

Originally posted by: manko
I've seen other comments that some versions of this board possibly ignore the mod and won't give you anything other than the stock settings. I don't know if that's true or not.

I have a suspicion that many of these are cases of improper mods, as in it doesn't make a complete connection.

I had my first success using a tiny bit of aluminum foil. However, it eventually stopped working - system wouldn't POST. I think maybe something oxidized.

I now use a rear window defogger kit. I think it took around 5 tries to get it working the first time. Now, after several processors, I can get it usually the first try.

 

[shiro]

I used a toothpick to apply the defogging paint. I shook the tiny paint jar pretty well before each dip, so when the paint dried up on the cpu it looked a little crusty. And it was since my first time, the excess crumbled off easily like I mentioned before.

Maybe I need to apply a thinner solution of the paint and try not to get as much gunk on it?

I don't have a multimeter and dno't really know how to work one really lol. Used to sort of play around with one as a kid to measure small alkaline AA battery capacities, but I really had no idea what I was doing lol. I did used to have this little tool that looked like a screwdriver with a metal tip, and I think some wire or something. It would connect to some electrical wire or something and it would light up if there was a connection. I used it to test a connection when I did some amateur work putting some gauges in my car years ago. Would that work? I've tried looking for it recently but it seems to have mysteriously disappeared. If only I could find that thing I may be able to test if there is a connection.

Suppose I should get my friend's help with this since he has a multimeter and has suggested I use one, but I don't want to go out to buy one just to get a successful mod and nothing else. When I get a chance to try this mod again I'd also like to make sure this crap works so I don't keep wasting more arctic silver 3 and 5 lol

 

[myocardia]

Just use this. It's alot cheaper, is easier, and can't flake.

 

[shiro]

that's the same copper tape I used (only saw 1/8" in store) for my latest application...again with failure...
I cut about 5 or 6 pieces before I finally got one I was satisfied with and stuck that on. Rolled in the tips so that the pins would be in contact with the copper.

 

[quadomatic]

Originally posted by: shiro
I used a toothpick to apply the defogging paint. I shook the tiny paint jar pretty well before each dip, so when the paint dried up on the cpu it looked a little crusty. And it was since my first time, the excess crumbled off easily like I mentioned before.

Maybe I need to apply a thinner solution of the paint and try not to get as much gunk on it?

I don't have a multimeter and dno't really know how to work one really lol. Used to sort of play around with one as a kid to measure small alkaline AA battery capacities, but I really had no idea what I was doing lol. I did used to have this little tool that looked like a screwdriver with a metal tip, and I think some wire or something. It would connect to some electrical wire or something and it would light up if there was a connection. I used it to test a connection when I did some amateur work putting some gauges in my car years ago. Would that work? I've tried looking for it recently but it seems to have mysteriously disappeared. If only I could find that thing I may be able to test if there is a connection.

Suppose I should get my friend's help with this since he has a multimeter and has suggested I use one, but I don't want to go out to buy one just to get a successful mod and nothing else. When I get a chance to try this mod again I'd also like to make sure this crap works so I don't keep wasting more arctic silver 3 and 5 lol

Yeah, try getting your friend's help with the multimeter then.

When you apply the defogger paint, shake the bottle a bit, and then take the toothpick and scrape off the dried stuff from the sides of the bottle and shake it again. The solution should be very even. When you get some paint out of the bottle with the toothpick, tap the toothpick on the top of the bottle a bit to get off the excess. You should only be applying small little drops of it at a time. It should make a thin line for the circuit you want. You shouldn't end up with a whole lot of crusty stuff. It will look a little crusty when it dries though; it should be that way.