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Fry's - AMD Athlon 2000+ Thorton/Barton Core & ECS K7VTA3 v8 - $64.99 **Exp 11/25**

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Thanks! I just got myself 2. Man...seems like I've been waiting for ever for a combo with a Thorton. Time to mod this babies.
 
Originally posted by: BuonaDomenica
I got a Thornton core this afternoon at the Fry's Manhatten Beach store (Los Angeles, CA). Invoice and label on the chip protective case say "AMD Thornton Bare CPU".

Numbers on the Chip:
AXDC 2000DUT3C
AQFA 0342PMW

Does this chip has any other advantages besides that it can be mod into a Barton? Does it run cooler then the regular TBred?

thanks
BD

the core having more surface area should dissipate heat better to your heatsink.


anyone know how to adjust the voltage on this board? the box says its voltage adjustable but i see no options for that... and i'm guessing theres no multiplier unlocking? it'd be nice if there was 🙁
 
Originally posted by: BuonaDomenica
I got a Thornton core this afternoon at the Fry's Manhatten Beach store (Los Angeles, CA). Invoice and label on the chip protective case say "AMD Thornton Bare CPU".

Numbers on the Chip:
AXDC 2000DUT3C
AQFA 0342PMW

Does this chip has any other advantages besides that it can be mod into a Barton? Does it run cooler then the regular TBred?

thanks
BD

I'm not sure if they run cooler but I do know since the core is bigger than a T-bird, your heatsink will do a better job cooling it because of the larger contact area. These chips seem to overclock better than the T-birds too.
 
Oh man I want one of these, even though I already have 2 T-bred B's clocking at 2200mhz at low voltages on nforce 2 platforms.
 
If anyone is curious, the BIOS is interchangable with the L7VTA2 KT400 BIOS. Unfortunately it doesn't enable anything new. Tried it and no AGP8X or 533 V-Link. 🙁
 
I bought two of these combos. The first I used some PC2100 memory and set the jumpers to 133. The second I used PC2700 memory and set the jumpers to 166 which set the cpu to 2600+ --very impressive. I'm gonna have to use some pc2700 in the first as that is a nice OC even w/o modifying the multiplier.
 
Another Barton 2800+ is born. I finally got around to doing the Thorton to Barton mod. You don't need to use expensive conductive pen paint or defogger repair goop. Just use a pencil. It works fine. What's the point of paying $14 for a conductive pen when you can just pay $20 more and get a real Barton? Just run the pencil over and over and over the hole until it fills up with graphite. Works like a charm. I bumped the FSB up to 166mhz and the CPU ran like a charm overnight at the default voltage. What more do you want from a $30 CPU?

David
 
Has anyone bought this combo in Austin TX? I spoke with the sales rep there and he says all they have is Thoroughbred, no thorton. I find it had to believe that this store does not have thortons, while so many others do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
what MOBO are people using? I just got an axdc 2000DUT3C thorton and can not get the thing to post with my l7s7a2 mobo. I even flashed the bios to the most recent. My 1700+ will run at 2.0ghz no problem, but when I put the thorton in, even on autodetect with no modifications it powers up then shuts down right away. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Just bought a set from the Campbell store. Surprisingly enough, they have some older week 22 AQXDA cores. They're built on the older type packaging as well where you can't see the traces. Note that you might have to ask for it. I was originally given a week 43 and told the cashier to see if they can give me a older type. 🙂 Remember, being courteous helps! YMMV on this one.
 
keep in mind that if you have the NEW PACKAGING on the chip and cant unlock the chip from the top, you can connect the pins on the bottom with copper wire. I have been doing this for quite a while as it is 100% reversable with absolutely no "residue" from the conductive ink used or anything like that.
 
Originally posted by: syadnom
keep in mind that if you have the NEW PACKAGING on the chip and cant unlock the chip from the top, you can connect the pins on the bottom with copper wire. I have been doing this for quite a while as it is 100% reversable with absolutely no "residue" from the conductive ink used or anything like that.

By new packaging, do you mean the one where you can see the traces on the top?

Also, do you have link for what wires to connect on the bottom? Thanks!

 
i havent been keeping up lately. is there a difference between thorton/barton core vs. thoroughbred core?

any idea if this is still available at the fremont fry's? thanks
 
Originally posted by: Braxus
Bwahahaha!

Now that's what I call a deal erm... steal! An Barton 2800+ for a mere 35 bucks and some change (chip cost 35.20 in the combo).

Looks like it is truely easy to mod the chip into a Barton. Just put a drop of conductive ink (my work had a huge bottle of that stuff) into it and instant Barton chip! Seemed to clock easily to the 2800+ with a jumper change. Have yet to install any OS or test the stability of the enabled cache.

Psst........you need a hard drive 🙂
 
Buckshot, I need your assistance please. I got one of the new thorton I saw your picture when you use the conductive pen to obtain the extra 256cache. I have a question, the laser cut which I think is under the L2 line one, do you draw a line to the left or to the right of the laser cut? also, can you remove this conductive pen mark in case there is a need, and if so, what do you use to clean it?

Thanks a bunch!

by the way I got the conductive pen at frys $12.99 ouch!
 
I just got another Thorton. This one is a 44 weeker. I can't enable the full 512KB cache like my 39 weeker. There was some mention of doing a pin mod to get it enabled with the newer chips. Does anyone know which pins to connect?

David
 
Originally posted by: elnicoya100
Buckshot, I need your assistance please. I got one of the new thorton I saw your picture when you use the conductive pen to obtain the extra 256cache. I have a question, the laser cut which I think is under the L2 line one, do you draw a line to the left or to the right of the laser cut? also, can you remove this conductive pen mark in case there is a need, and if so, what do you use to clean it?

Thanks a bunch!

by the way I got the conductive pen at frys $12.99 ouch!

What you want to do is fill the laser cut with the conductive pen. Basically just fill the gap. Make sure you clean it first with some alcohol. Yes..the conductive pen is easy to remove alcohol and q tip will do the job.
 
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