Fridge repair question

Mar 15, 2003
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I know someone here has the brains for a logical solution. Long story short movers butchered my parent's fridge on a move and broke the lower hinge of the door. The bottom is plastic so there's no easy way to weld something on and the door replacement would cost over $800. Of course we're fighting with the movers but since my parents are retired and this is a completely unplanned expense I'm looking for a plan b. Any epoxy etc. strong enough to mock something up? Any advice is appreciated
fridge.jpeg
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
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find or make a L bracket of that width and length longer than that hole. screw, weld or epoxy to spine of door. Depending on the hinge plate, you may need to grind down the spine side of the door to account for L bracket thickness.
 
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herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,395
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you could pop rivit an L inside the frame to the bottom, that looks like metal and then jb weld the heck out of the broken peice to the new L bracket and the existing plastic.
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,389
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I'd threaten to take them to small claims court if they don't pay for the replacement cost of the door.

The problem with hinges on a fridge/freezer is that the seal has to be perfect and maintained....if it's not perfect, you're going to end up with an air leak which could cost you the food inside the fridge (which could be another $50-400 depending on what you have in there). Sorry dude.
 

mindless1

Diamond Member
Aug 11, 2001
8,071
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I can't make heads or tails of the pic. Better pics may help, but if strength is the issue then you could use epoxy (just not something brittle like JBWeld) but not alone, to layer fiberglass mating then since it may not adhere well to the plastic you create a long enough area to drill a couple holes thenput fasteners in, spread apart a bit, to hold it to the existing material for structural reinforcement.

A custom L-bracket made out of 1/8" aluminum might work too but depending on the dimensions needed, if you don't have the metal brake to do it, you'll have to enlist outside help and addt'l expense, or order a fairly big piece of L channel aluminum if there's no recyclers near you that have any scraps. Of course welding steel together could work too, adding another different skill needed.
 
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Mar 15, 2003
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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I know it won't be perfect but I'm going over to see if the L bracket trick could work, hopefully something prefab from home depot. I reported it to the marketplace I found the mover on (thumbtack) but I don't have much faith, customer service seems pretty lacking and I doubt they'll mediate door replacements (maybe they'll get the service charge refunded).

We *do* plan on escalating this to small claims court, just need a temporary fix since I'm sure this will drag on. It's a $2000 fridge I gifted them and the doors cost $700-800 each, so they basically junked the thing by breaking the hinges
 
Mar 15, 2003
12,669
103
106
I can't make heads or tails of the pic. Better pics may help, but if strength is the issue then you could use epoxy (just not something brittle like JBWeld) but not alone, to layer fiberglass mating then since it may not adhere well to the plastic you create a long enough area to drill a couple holes thenput fasteners in, spread apart a bit, to hold it to the existing material for structural reinforcement.

A custom L-bracket made out of 1/8" aluminum might work too but depending on the dimensions needed, if you don't have the metal brake to do it, you'll have to enlist outside help and addt'l expense, or order a fairly big piece of L channel aluminum if there's no recyclers near you that have any scraps. Of course welding steel together could work too, adding another different skill needed.

For reference that's the bottom of the left fridge (the stuffing visible is the joint the door hangs onto the fridge. I'll get better pictures when I visit myself.

Thanks for your informed sounding post by the way - do you recommend a product other than jbweld for epoxys? I had the thought of welding the bracket on and contacted a pro - fingers crossed.
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,389
1,778
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For kicks, include the model number on here. Who knows, sometimes appliances/fridges are parted out. You may be able to find a used door without paying $800.
 
Mar 15, 2003
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For kicks, include the model number on here. Who knows, sometimes appliances/fridges are parted out. You may be able to find a used door without paying $800.

Sure, it's a Maytag mfw2055frz. Both doors are damaged but the left one is completely unusable (fell when my mom tried to open it so it's currently duct taped). MSRPs $800 for the part (without the guts even, just the frame!), the best quote I received from a tech was $680 + 80 labor

Really appreciate the help, guys. The hive mind here's a few notches above the reddit crowd IQ and experience wise, why I keep coming back here for 20 years+ (sheesh, since I was a teen)
 
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mindless1

Diamond Member
Aug 11, 2001
8,071
1,451
126
For reference that's the bottom of the left fridge (the stuffing visible is the joint the door hangs onto the fridge. I'll get better pictures when I visit myself.

Thanks for your informed sounding post by the way - do you recommend a product other than jbweld for epoxys? I had the thought of welding the bracket on and contacted a pro - fingers crossed.
A typical clear epoxy. There are many quite alike with the best value depending on what quantity you estimate that you need. Here is an example, though if you think it's too quick set (real working time should be under 3 minutes for best results or mix smaller batches for each fiberglass mat layer) then something slower.

This is only meant (for your purpose) to saturate and glue together fiberglass matting, not be the structural portion of it by itself. Maximum fiberglass mat, minimum epoxy. If you have not laid fiberglass before there are youtube videos.
 
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Mar 15, 2003
12,669
103
106
A typical clear epoxy. There are many quite alike with the best value depending on what quantity you estimate that you need. Here is an example, though if you think it's too quick set (real working time should be under 3 minutes for best results or mix smaller batches for each fiberglass mat layer) then something slower.

This is only meant (for your purpose) to saturate and glue together fiberglass matting, not be the structural portion of it by itself. Maximum fiberglass mat, minimum epoxy. If you have not laid fiberglass before there are youtube videos.

FANTASTIC, thank you thank you thank you!
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
95,105
15,199
126
you could pop rivit an L inside the frame to the bottom, that looks like metal and then jb weld the heck out of the broken peice to the new L bracket and the existing plastic.

The bottom is plastic, that is the troublesome part. The door is basically a metal 3 sided sleeve with plastic as fourth side plus plastic end caps. Can't believe they cheap out on the load bearing part lol.