Four stroke oil

[mindless1]

nevermind

 

[jmagg]

Toro 16-38 HXL

 

[BUTCH1]

I always sneak in a few ounces of Lucas oil stabilizer as well, gennys just have to work really, really hard.

 

[Meghan54]

I always sneak in a few ounces of Lucas oil stabilizer as well, gennys just have to work really, really hard.

Tell me you don’t. That crap will break down well before any decent oil will.

 

[mindless1]

I always sneak in a few ounces of Lucas oil stabilizer as well, gennys just have to work really, really hard.

It's not doing anything more useful than thickening the oil, so you'd be as well (usually better) off just picking the next higher weight oil instead.

 

[Meghan54]

I’d also wonder if in B&S’s oil viscosity chart the oils being represented are Briggs oils. If they are, and why wouldn’t they be since the Vanguard is listed by name, then part of B&S’s oil recommendation problem is that B&S oil, outside the Vanguard stuff, is all SJ rated.

I do find it odd that even Briggs’ synthetic is only SJ rated, but looked at the locally available B&S oils this morning (30 wt, syn 5W30, but no Vanguard…outta stock) and all is only SJ rated.

Current API rating is SP, so the SJ rating is waaay obsolete…heck, that’d be oil I wouldn’t put in a 20 year old car. Always wondered why the antiquated oil certs for B&S engines.

 

[Torn Mind]

I’d also wonder if in B&S’s oil viscosity chart the oils being represented are Briggs oils. If they are, and why wouldn’t they be since the Vanguard is listed by name, then part of B&S’s oil recommendation problem is that B&S oil, outside the Vanguard stuff, is all SJ rated.

I do find it odd that even Briggs’ synthetic is only SJ rated, but looked at the locally available B&S oils this morning (30 wt, syn 5W30, but no Vanguard…outta stock) and all is only SJ rated.

Current API rating is SP, so the SJ rating is waaay obsolete…heck, that’d be oil I wouldn’t put in a 20 year old car. Always wondered why the antiquated oil certs for B&S engines.

15W-50 is probably thanks to feedback like those of Cujet on Bobistheoilguy. He has used Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic in his generators and he lives in Florida, which provides a real world situation in which the conditions are brutal and stressing.

Honda generator

Just wanted to thank Cujet for his very helpful recommendation of running M1 15W50 in air cooled engines. We recently got hit pretty hard by Hurricane Zeta and we will be without power for at least another week. 15 year old Honda GX390, gets a quart of M1 15W50 every 50 hours, running...

bobistheoilguy.com

Best oil for Generator ????

I was just given a brand new Coleman Powermate 5000 Generator, from Home Depot. It has a Robin Subaru 10 hp OHC single cylinder engine (EX30D). I put in Castrol GTX 5w30 for the break in oil, and ran it for 45 minutes yesterday with no load. I will be using it primarily as a back up generator...

bobistheoilguy.com

I have posted many times on this subject. Having seen (and fixed) many portable generators fail on dino 5-30 I suggest a synthetic of slightly higher viscosity. Florida heat is tough, as is running an entire house on a 11hp generator. Example: my 2 air cooled Honda water pumps failed early with dino oil. 15W-50 M1 resulted in much longer engine life. My Robin 11HP gen set has only seen M1 15W-50 with 50 hour oil changes. It has serious hours on it with 3 hurricanes and home construction, without any problems. The oil is even clean when drained. Contrast that with the many failures (including my co-workers) run on thin dino oil. The engines get ultra hot, the oil gets very thin and the connecting rod bearing (really just an aluminum con rod) fails. Every time. This situation was repeated thousands of times here in hurricane central. Remember that 500 degree cylinder head temps are the norm in air cooled engines under full overload. I have seen 280 crankcase temps with my digital thermometer. Chris

 

[BUTCH1]

It's not doing anything more useful than thickening the oil, so you'd be as well (usually better) off just picking the next higher weight oil instead.

Yea, your probably right, I just feel good seeing it ooze it's way down the funnel.

 

[Meghan54]

It's not doing anything more useful than thickening the oil, so you'd be as well (usually better) off just picking the next higher weight oil instead.

In fact, that stuff is devoid of anything but thick virgin (I think) oil. No additives (detergents, viscosity, anti-wear agents, etc.) Virgin oil analysis on BITOG showed that. Had a Viscosity 100°C cSt value of 124.43

Compare that to SAE Viscosity 100°C cSt values for oil at different grades.....such as for SAE 30 wt oil, CST range is min 9.3 to max <12.5

For 60 wt. oil, the range is 21.9 min to <26.1

Cannot imagine the SAE grade for oil iwth a CST value of 124.43. Geez!