Flooring

lupi

Lifer
Apr 8, 2001
32,539
260
126
Have boxes of laminant flooring ready to install in my bottom floor. I'm ready to empty the first room and start but not sure how to handle the separation between the 2 rooms (a doorway).

I plan on doing the first room one weekend, move the stuff from other room into the finished room, and then do the other room the next weekend. Just duct tape the exposed board that extends into the unfinished room to prevent it from getting moved? Or is there a better idea?
 

z1ggy

Lifer
May 17, 2008
10,010
66
91
This belongs in H&G.

Is the flooring the "snap" in kind with a groove and tongue? Are you nailing it down... etc?
 

lupi

Lifer
Apr 8, 2001
32,539
260
126
Yes it's the groved snap together variety. Room is on a slab so can't use any other type with building an additional subfloor.
 

z1ggy

Lifer
May 17, 2008
10,010
66
91
Sigh. It's tape made out of ducks. Ducks making tape, you guys...

Is that like, the sauce I get from the Chinese take out place? After they make all the tape, they head to their second job (because let's be real, ducks are not white collar) to make all the duck sauce?
 

Markbnj

Elite Member <br>Moderator Emeritus
Moderator
Sep 16, 2005
15,682
14
81
www.markbetz.net
You probably want to lay the flooring the same direction in all rooms and lay it continuously through the doorways. The reason is that it looks more real when it looks as if the floor was built before the walls, as it would have been if it were original. You'd only want a transition in a doorway if you're moving to a different type of material. As long as you're laying the same color and type, then lay it all the same direction and continuously through the doors, imo.
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,973
6,340
136
Yes it's the groved snap together variety. Room is on a slab so can't use any other type with building an additional subfloor.
Don't see a need to do anything to hold it down. I wouldn't run into the next room until the wall section in the 2nd room is down up to the door casing. Then span the door gap to tie the 2 rooms together. That piece may need to be notched for the separating wall.

Does that make sense?
 

UnklSnappy

Senior member
Apr 13, 2004
626
126
116
Sounds like the floor is running parallel to the doorway. If that's the case I would start on that wall. Cut door jambs and casings so the flooring fits under it. put in the doorway piece then your first row and go from there. Just make sure everything is square in the room. If not split the difference or decide which wall is best to hide the out of squareness.
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,973
6,340
136
You'll have scraps. Use the scraps to protect the exposed edge.
Good idea.
Sounds like the floor is running parallel to the doorway. If that's the case I would start on that wall. Cut door jambs and casings so the flooring fits under it. put in the doorway piece then your first row and go from there. Just make sure everything is square in the room. If not split the difference or decide which wall is best to hide the out of squareness.
I was thinking perpendicular....OP?
 

NoTine42

Golden Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,387
78
91
The problem with parallel...how do you angle and snap-in the doorway piece without removing the door jamb?
You also have a problem with perpendicular..how do you join in?

There are a variety of flooring transition /threshold products that might make this job easier. Usually they are used for a laminate to wood or ceramic transition, but they would still work in this instance.
 

lupi

Lifer
Apr 8, 2001
32,539
260
126
The room is a long rectangle with the doorway being in the wall that divides into a smaller room along the shorter dimension (larger of 2 rooms is around 28x12).

Was planning on laying down the planks so they would be parallel to the doorway between the rooms.

I grabbed probably more than I needed but a decent bit before pruning for less desirable boards since I got it all on sale awhile back, so using one of those sounds like a good plan.
 

lupi

Lifer
Apr 8, 2001
32,539
260
126
Something else I meant to ask, the smaller room I'm doing first has a basic sliding closet door (2 panels moving along an upper track with a small mount point in the bottom center to assist in keeping them in line).

Am I going to have any trouble mounting that small channel guard (or whatever you call it) into the planks or should I look at getting a new type of door?
 

UnklSnappy

Senior member
Apr 13, 2004
626
126
116
The problem with parallel...how do you angle and snap-in the doorway piece without removing the door jamb?
You also have a problem with perpendicular..how do you join in?

There are tricks and techniques.
Pull the doorway piece forward enough to snap together the first pieces of the starter row then slide back in place. On the other side of the doorway. If it doesn't extend far enough to snap together the first row you can modify the piece to eliminate the snap in feature. And just glue those pieces together.
 

Micrornd

Golden Member
Mar 2, 2013
1,396
256
126
You'll have scraps. Use the scraps to protect the exposed edge.

This is the best way. ;)
Just put a couple screws through the face of some sacrificial scraps to hold them in place during the week, and then remove the screws and scraps when you start next weekend.
That will fully protect the tongue.
 

slashbinslashbash

Golden Member
Feb 29, 2004
1,945
8
81
I would probably not lay the flooring continuously between the two rooms. Leave a small gap in the middle of the doorway, and cover it with a transition piece. Better for expansion, especially in an area like a basement that is likely to have dampness issues.
 

slashbinslashbash

Golden Member
Feb 29, 2004
1,945
8
81
It's not a basement, sadly those don't exist in this area.

Sorry, somehow I read "bottom floor" and interpreted it as "basement". Still I would floor the rooms separately and just use a small transition piece between the two which allows for an expansion gap on both sides.