• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

First Time Watercooling on ASUS M3A78-T

P

Peter Trend

Senior member
Hi everyone


I wonder if anyone has any advice on watercooling this system (in my sig). I have done a little research and filled a shopping basket with what seem suitable parts: http://i147.photobucket.com/al...jellysnowman/Water.jpg

I'd particularly like too know whether these water blocks will fit on this motherboard!

And another question - should I expect the Reserator XT to handle the new 125w Phenom II as well as a 4870 and eventually another 4870X2, or will I need to get a second radiator?

The idea is to silence the whole PC as it will be used for home recording (and the fans keep me awake while it folds proteins 24/7)

Any help would be much appreciated =]

Peter
 
Reserator still made from aluminum?

Can it! Do not mix metals!
Use standard radiators with low speed fans. Your ready to go with an external reserator, run hose through the wall and put the rads in another room or closet.
 
run hose through the wall and put the rads in another room or closet.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately that isn't possible, I rent the place I live in now.
If the reserator isnt gonna cut it, how about these with a pump and resevoir in the drive bay? Will that work with very low airflow? 3 rads? 4?
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/...33_55/products_id/3163
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/...33_61/products_id/2162
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/...33_57/products_id/3388

How likely is it that the Reserator XT could leak? Or is it the copper heatsinks that would corrode?
I'm going to go for whatever is quietest that will still be able to cool everything in one loop without leaking...I found this on a review of the Reserator:

"Using a 12x12 pin grid, the ZM-WB5's pure copper base should provide a good amount of heat transfer but with its copper materials, along with the copper piping inside the XT, use of a good anti-corrosion additive like the bottle Zalman includes is a necessity."

"Bordering the fill cap are thin aluminum fins that run the entire length of the Reserator. While they clearly are there to help dissipate heat out and away from the XT, a quick look inside shows that the fluid actually runs through these corner heat sinks to further cool the liquid as it makes its trip around the loop. This helps show the time that the Zalman engineers put into the Reserator XT and while it does add four more points of failure as far as leaks are concerned, Zalman has securely attached the hoses, so little worry needs to be given to the fear of internal leakage."
http://techgage.com/article/za...iquid_cooling_system/2

Thanks for your time
 
the reserator is a toy in watercooling.

so is all the Thermaltake kits.

For a while koolance used to be in that catigory but they did a complete 180 change and now there new products are back in leauge with DangerDen, Swiftech, and EK again.

I would avoid anything thermaltake or zalman for watercooling, because once again, there not real watercooling products. There toys.

So if the zalman is your only option, i would recomend you just watercool the cpu with the zalman setup, and air cool your gpus.

Or think of setting up an entirely new custom from scratch.

Dont addon to your toys or cross mix toys. In watercooling, the more complicated you make it, the worse results your gonna get.
 
Originally posted by: aigomorla
the reserator is a toy in watercooling.

so is all the Thermaltake kits.
Click to expand...

I hear you loud and clear. I will scrap the Reserator and build my own 100% copper system.
I am actually after some good performance. Still want to cool at least one 4870 and my northbridge in the loop. MOSFETs can just have a better passive heatsink, and the southbridge barely gets warm on this board so I dont need to worry about that.

Passive copper radiators (or near-passive i.e. maybe thermostatically controlled large diameter fan if needs be) and quiet-ish pumps I'm looking for now =]
 
uhh your better off with a large class radiators and uber quiet fans.

honestly..

How much is your budget?

i'll help you piece out an awesome setup to your need on your sig.
 
Ah great thats what I was hoping for hehe. I'm aiming for around £350, and it isn't necessarily going to be built immediately so if needs be I can stretch to £400.

How much of a dent in performance will I have if the radiator is mounted in case? I know the top fan on the HAF 932 can be replaced with 3x120mm fans and there is mounting for a radiator on the ceiling...

I'm not sure how many watts to expect these radiators to dissipate, with fairly low airflow.
 
Originally posted by: Peter Trend
If a photograph of the case currently would help I can get one up to photobucket for ya?
Click to expand...

im sure i can pull it on newegg.

i need to find the parts and total it in lbs.

lol you also got a nasty VAT i need to compensate for .

gimme sometime, im at work, and cant dedicate enough sit in time for this right now.

most likely after i get off work tonight.
 
okey peter..

You should look for these guys:

Swiftech MCR320 Or Fesser 360 might be the same price in EU. Then get the fesser.
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swifte...-Radiator-pr-3320.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/Feser-...-Radiator-pr-4278.html

This one isnt so bad too:
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-R...-Radiator-pr-4204.html

As for a pump:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swifte...-VDC-Pump-pr-2982.html
or
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swifte...v-DC-Pump-pr-3510.html
+
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-A...Laing-DDC-pr-4123.html

Now the cpu block you have a few choices.. My recomendation is you stay away from injectors since you want your GPU on there.
http://www.jab-tech.com/D-tek-...ter-Block-pr-3667.html
Or
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-D...PU-Acetal-pr-4305.html

is ideal.

Lastly your GPU sector:
I need a picture of your card to see if its reference design or not. ATI has over 6 different platforms for the HD4870.

For tubing:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Master...ID-5-8-OD-pr-3079.html get around 15 feet.

For fans find Yate Loons DSH.

IF you look though the forum you'll see other h2o builds where i pointed out some good UK stores.

For now look though those stores, daw123 is also from the UK, and tell me what you can find, and what you cant find so i can make edits this list.
 
Thanks! That is really very helpful!

the MCP355 generates higher audible noise than the MCP350 and MCP655 pumps. This product is not recommended for users seeking silent operations.
Click to expand...

I think I will go with the Swiftech MCP655 pump.

That means I will have 1/2" connectors on the pump. I heard I should try to eliminate any changing between fitting sizes as that can cause turbulence and noise, as well as reducing coolant flow rate...so that leave me with the D-tek FuZion cpu cooler.

My recomendation is you stay away from injectors since you want your GPU on there.
Click to expand...
What are injectors?

All the radiators have 1/4" barbs, will that be a problem?

That tubing has 7/16" Inner Diameter and 5/8" Outer Diameter. Is that gonna work better than 1/2" ID 3/4" OD?

Yate Loons DSH doesnt seem to be for sale in the UK, but I'm okay for fans anyway, have done a couple air-cooled rigs and I have a few 120mm Akasa fans which are near-silent already.

I will try and get you a photo of my graphics card. It is the Powercolor one. For now I have to do some work on my assignment for university, so will have to drag myself off Anandtech! I like it here =]

Thanks again for all your help
 
Originally posted by: Peter Trend
Thanks! That is really very helpful!

the MCP355 generates higher audible noise than the MCP350 and MCP655 pumps. This product is not recommended for users seeking silent operations.
Click to expand...

I think I will go with the Swiftech MCP655 pump.

Good pump, get the "vario" if available.

That means I will have 1/2" connectors on the pump. I heard I should try to eliminate any changing between fitting sizes as that can cause turbulence and noise, as well as reducing coolant flow rate...so that leave me with the D-tek FuZion cpu cooler.

Very good block but the barbs on any good block are interchangeable provided the threading is right.

My recomendation is you stay away from injectors since you want your GPU on there.
Click to expand...
What are injectors?

In the case of D-Tek it is a nozzle that fits into the block to create a jet of water pinpointed at the processors.

All the radiators have 1/4" barbs, will that be a problem?

These are what you want. Barbs screw in and come in various sizes.

That tubing has 7/16" Inner Diameter and 5/8" Outer Diameter. Is that gonna work better than 1/2" ID 3/4" OD?

Looks better IMO and often is easier to work with.
Click to expand...

 
Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Originally posted by: Peter Trend
Thanks! That is really very helpful!

the MCP355 generates higher audible noise than the MCP350 and MCP655 pumps. This product is not recommended for users seeking silent operations.
Click to expand...

I think I will go with the Swiftech MCP655 pump.

Good pump, get the "vario" if available.

That means I will have 1/2" connectors on the pump. I heard I should try to eliminate any changing between fitting sizes as that can cause turbulence and noise, as well as reducing coolant flow rate...so that leave me with the D-tek FuZion cpu cooler.

Very good block but the barbs on any good block are interchangeable provided the threading is right.

My recomendation is you stay away from injectors since you want your GPU on there.
Click to expand...
What are injectors?

In the case of D-Tek it is a nozzle that fits into the block to create a jet of water pinpointed at the processors.

All the radiators have 1/4" barbs, will that be a problem?

These are what you want. Barbs screw in and come in various sizes.

That tubing has 7/16" Inner Diameter and 5/8" Outer Diameter. Is that gonna work better than 1/2" ID 3/4" OD?

Looks better IMO and often is easier to work with.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

My Pal said it best. +!

Still need a pic of your card to see if its referece design or not.
 
Originally posted by: aigomorla

Lastly your GPU sector:
I need a picture of your card to see if its reference design or not. ATI has over 6 different platforms for the HD4870.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I just found out my digital camera is broken, but this is the exact same card I have:
http://www.pcper.com/images/reviews/581/4870_card.jpg
You can't see whats going on underneath the cover though! Btw I will be ordering everything on the 16th or 17th as this is when my money comes in. Thanks for all the help so far aigomorla & WoodButcher 🙂 you're stars!
 
i think that might be referense design.
I would need to look and ask around.

A MCW60 would be your cheapest option.

There is a few FC blocks that are fairly cheap also, but there limited just to that card.
 
I think this is the same board underneath...http://www.driverheaven.net/reviews.php?reviewid=672
Underneath a EK-FC4870 that is!
I think you're right it is the reference design.

That leaves my choices open. I'm not sure how much I want to spend yet. I wouldn't mind one that looks sweet too 😉

I cant decide between these. I'm erring on the side of CF ready ones, that have a matching 4870x2 counterpart.

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/sho...113_39&products_id=773
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/sho...113_39&products_id=915
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/...9_301/products_id/3363
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/...9_301/products_id/3329
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/...9_301/products_id/3420
http://www.thecoolingshop.com/...9_301/products_id/3449
 
My money came in early (today! 🙂) I've ordered most of it now, this is the list:

1 x XSPC RS360 Black Radiator () = £41.71
Barb Size 1/2"
1 x Swiftech MCP655? 12 VDC Pump (Danger Den D5 Vario) () = £88.55
Aftermarket Top EK D5 Rev.2
Want Us to Assemble the combo? yes
Barb Size for Selected Top 1/2"
1 x D-TEK FuZion v2 CPU Block () = £46.99
Barb Size 1/2"
1 x Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev 2 () = £17.99
1 x Swiftech MCW30 Chipset cooler () = £19.20
2 x OCZ Freeze Extreme Thermal Conductivity Compound () = £6.90
1 x YATE LOON 120mm - D12SL-12 () = £3.91
1 x 12-20mm Hoseclips Pack of 10 () = £2.92
15 x XSPC 3/8" Clear tubing () = £12.30
1 x G12 Coolant (Corrosion Inhibitor) 50ml () = £2.24
1 x PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Coolant (32 oz.) - UV Red () = £9.78

Total cost was £252.49

I think I'm gonna go for this GPU block http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/xspc...0-gpu-block-1792-p.asp and maybe attach some mosfet/memory sinks if there seem to be bare ICs after I fit it, that seem like a good idea?

Picking up the Phenom II tomorrow, will see what I get on air in the meantime =]
 
Originally posted by: Peter Trend
My money came in early (today! 🙂) I've ordered most of it now, this is the list:

1 x XSPC RS360 Black Radiator () = £41.71
Barb Size 1/2"
1 x Swiftech MCP655? 12 VDC Pump (Danger Den D5 Vario) () = £88.55
Aftermarket Top EK D5 Rev.2
Want Us to Assemble the combo? yes
Barb Size for Selected Top 1/2"
1 x D-TEK FuZion v2 CPU Block () = £46.99
Barb Size 1/2"
1 x Swiftech MCRES-Micro Rev 2 () = £17.99
1 x Swiftech MCW30 Chipset cooler () = £19.20
2 x OCZ Freeze Extreme Thermal Conductivity Compound () = £6.90
1 x YATE LOON 120mm - D12SL-12 () = £3.91
1 x 12-20mm Hoseclips Pack of 10 () = £2.92
15 x XSPC 3/8" Clear tubing () = £12.30
1 x G12 Coolant (Corrosion Inhibitor) 50ml () = £2.24
1 x PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Coolant (32 oz.) - UV Red () = £9.78

Total cost was £252.49

I think I'm gonna go for this GPU block http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/xspc...0-gpu-block-1792-p.asp and maybe attach some mosfet/memory sinks if there seem to be bare ICs after I fit it, that seem like a good idea?

Picking up the Phenom II tomorrow, will see what I get on air in the meantime =]
Click to expand...

looks good.

you should look for the RX radiator tho.

its a bit better then the RS.
 
Well the company just emailed me to say "are you sure you want 3/8" tubing and 1/2" barbs?" But I said yes, and I've asked if they can swap for the RX if I paypal them the difference, just waiting for a response...
I think there's space for another two 120mm rads in this case (one at front bottom intake and one at rear top exhaust) so if it gets a bit toasty I will consider putting one in.

Must get my camera fixed soon!

Edit: I've paid an extra £32.01 to upgrade to the RX
 
Originally posted by: Peter Trend
Well the company just emailed me to say "are you sure you want 3/8" tubing and 1/2" barbs?" But I said yes, and I've asked if they can swap for the RX if I paypal them the difference, just waiting for a response...
I think there's space for another two 120mm rads in this case (one at front bottom intake and one at rear top exhaust) so if it gets a bit toasty I will consider putting one in.

Must get my camera fixed soon!

Edit: I've paid an extra £32.01 to upgrade to the RX
Click to expand...

ROFL! Have I started a trend? Using the 3/8" over 1/2" barbs is a bitch. If the tubing is the softer rubber compound like hospital tubing it will stretch pretty easy, I think the stuff you got is more vinyl like so you need some tricks. Dip the ends in a cup of boiling water for 10 seconds then pre-stretch with needle nose pliers, use KY jelly also, just a little and be sure to flush the loop out well after with hot water so there is none left in the system after you finish assembly. My systems I build with a threaded inlet (a DD fillport) and a drain so I can hookup to the tap and run rater continuously to flush everything out. Rinse once with distilled and your good to go.

That is a good outfit your dealing with if they take the time to contact you about your purchase. The 3/8" over 1/2" is a major PITA at first but once you've done it you'll be pleased. It is much cleaner look with very little flowrate loss. If you need to use elbows the PEX fit well but a 3/8" copper ell is better, I made those. Keep in mind, these are a little smaller than normally used in household plumbing so you may have to hunt for them. My local home Depot does not stock this item.
 
Lol yeah I thought the tight fit would be difficult, but I knew about the hot water trick. Otherwise its impossible!
Um...I was sorta hoping I might not need to use elbows?

I don't even know what order to connect, how about reservoir-pump-GPU-CPU-northbridge-radiator?
 
Many folk say that flow order is unimportant other than the "res to pump" as the loop will reach a stable temp throughout its length,,, I don't know and don't care enough to run 2 or 3 temp probes in my loop to find out. My gut / instinct (and 30 years in the trades!) tells me things work best a certain way. Res above / to pump, (a dry pump doesn't work) to radiator, (removes heat including that generated by the pump) to CPU, (coolest possible water for best over-clock potential) then to NB and finally the GPU (vid cards do run hot but have higher tolerance for heat than the rest of the system).
Adding a second rad to your loop will help, even a single added anywhere except between the res and pump would make a difference provided it isn't a flow killer. The Swiftech 120x1 rad that I used on my last build had 3/8" barbs soldered on but I replaced them with a couple of PEX fittings I butchered. Yeah, I'm a hack but after painting it was better than new.

edit: note the PEX fittings have the inside edge chamfered, I do this to all my fittings and barb to lessen turbulence and flow restrictions, a little exsessive, no?:laugh:
 
the RX is a much better rad.

trust me, my friend cam (skinnee) just did a nice review on it.

I even asked him to do a simple flow test, which is blowing into the barbs to see how much resistance it generated, and he said it was almost non existant.

So that means its a pretty decient performer. Also his graphs showed very good promise on the larger brothers.

3/8 tubing on 1/2 barbs... mmmmm..... thats gona be a PITA to slip on. HOT Water FTW!

you could of gotten away with 7/16 tubing. They make a nice seal also on 1/2barbs. Only slightly thicker too.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top