• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Finished My Mineral Oil Cooled PC

I had planned on just posting one update tomorrow, but I couldn't keep the pics all to myself! So here they are:

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...0log/log_progress9.jpg
I mentioned in my last update that I completed a little more than I had shown. Well, here it is. I was not happy with the quality of my construction. As you can see, 2 of the holes don't have screws. That's because the screws coming from the other direction ran into them. I didn't measure the spacing well enough. The other 2 arrows point towards where I was able to get the screws in, but I had to grind down the head so they didn't collide. Needless to say, it looks poor and all around unprofessional.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress14.jpg
I decided to start over with proper planning. I made a list of the sizes of all of the pieces I will need and their locations. Each piece gets its own identifier so there will be no confusion later.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress15.jpg
With the plans in hand, I turned to my trusty mitre saw and cut to length all of the pieces required.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress17.jpg
Then I labeled them accordingly.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress16.jpg
A quick mockup of how the pieces will go together.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress18.jpg
Drilling commences.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress24.jpg
I made a small template that allows me to drill 2 different sets of holes in the exact spacing I need with no variations. I either use the two far holes or the two middle holes.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress21.jpg
Using the template, I made a bunch of my L brackets. Each one bracket has 2 far spaced holes and 2 closely spaced holes.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress23.jpg
A complete corner. It turned out a lot better the second time around. My little template worked quite well.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress20.jpg
Two corners done. These take a long time to do. For each corner I have to do the following:
Drill 12 holes through 3/4" thick aluminum.
Tap the 12 holes. (my arm hurts)
Make 3 L brackets.
Drill the holes in the L brackets.
Put everything together and hope to god that it all lines up properly.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress22.jpg
This is what I completed today on the frame. My arm was starting to aches from all of the holes I had to tap. I can tell the complete frame is going to be ridiculously strong. It barely has any flex in it.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress10.jpg
I also worked on making another foot. For this, I turned to the drill press. I think I've decided to use the hole saw method to make all of the feet. They turn out a lot better and require a lot less sanding.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress11.jpg
This hole saw is super crappy. I have to go very slowly or it gets stuck. It also shakes the press so much that the chuck on the drill press comes loose. I have to stop and retighten the chuck several times while cutting these.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress12.jpg
Two pieces immediately after the hole saw is done with them.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress13.jpg
The feet I've completed so far. The middle two were cut with the hole saw. The right foot was my first, and the left foot was the second.

And that's where I stopped this afternoon, my arm was aching too much. I recieved my acrylic today, but it's nothing exciting. The sheets are all covered in paper anyway. I peeled off a little from a corner just to peek, stuff looks great.

What do you guys think?
 
Looking good. The pillar drill is a godsend when it comes to drilling all those holes.

How comes you used solid ally bar, rather than square section (which would weigh less and have about the same strength)? Its going to way a ton once you've finished.

Are you using self-tapping screws or tapping each hole individually (because that would be a pita)?

 
Nice work legoman666. Good craftsmanship and nice use of Sketchup. I haven't touched my AutoCAD suite (AutoDesk AutoCAD 2002,2006,2007) and 3D-Studio Max (Also AutoDesk), SolidWorks and Google Sketchup Pro 6 in a long time. I used to design custom cases with the intent of having Mountain Mods manufacture them for me, but never had the money. I also designed a few houses with the help of a structural engineer and an architect. Sketchup is has a really nice presentation to its models, but I prefer AutoCAD and Solidworks for actual CAD drawings.

EDIT: I noticed in your recent revision of your radiators, the pump is no longer in the bottom section. Where will it be placed?
 
Originally posted by: daw123
Looking good. The pillar drill is a godsend when it comes to drilling all those holes.

How comes you used solid ally bar, rather than square section (which would weigh less and have about the same strength)? Its going to way a ton once you've finished.

Are you using self-tapping screws or tapping each hole individually (because that would be a pita)?
Click to expand...

In my previous case, I used hollow aluminum bar. I had the problem of screws stripping their tapping a lot. My guess is that the walls of the bar wasn't particularly thick (1/8") and I was using a drill, not tightening them by hand. And aluminum is soft. Anyway, this time around I opted to go with solid aluminum bar because I could thread the entire way through, 3/4"

Yes, I estimated the mineral oil alone is going to weigh close to 100lbs.

I tap each hole individually by hand, which is why my arm hurts 🙁

Nice work legoman666. Good craftsmanship and nice use of Sketchup. I haven't touched my AutoCAD suite (AutoDesk AutoCAD 2002,2006,2007) and 3D-Studio Max (Also AutoDesk), SolidWorks and Google Sketchup Pro 6 in a long time. I used to design custom cases with the intent of having Mountain Mods manufacture them for me, but never had the money. I also designed a few houses with the help of a structural engineer and an architect. Sketchup is has a really nice presentation to its models, but I prefer AutoCAD and Solidworks for actual CAD drawings.

EDIT: I noticed in your recent revision of your radiators, the pump is no longer in the bottom section. Where will it be placed?
Click to expand...

I'll be using a Eheim 1250, which is submersible. I'll probably stick it in the bottom of the tank intake directly from there. The outlet from the rads will most likely be near the CPU heatsink or the GPU heatsinks.

Very nice. A router or laminate trimmer w/ templates will do for cutting plexi. CD wrote about it here.
Click to expand...

Yar, it's a good idea. I was thinking about giving the router a try on the plexi (using a template).
 
Have you tried using straight paddle shallow volute centrifugal designs (which the 1250 is) with viscous fluids for extended periods of time?

 
@legoman666. I've just had a look at the linked thread in your previous post; well done on the design and fab work. It's not something I would even attempt to do.

Am I correct in guessing that the cooling process is this: the PC components (exc. drives) are in the tank, which is filled with mineral oil. A pump in the bottom of the case, circulates the oil heated by the components in the tank to the air-cooled rads which cool the oil.
 
Originally posted by: daw123
@legoman666. I've just had a look at the linked thread in your previous post; well done on the design and fab work. It's not something I would even attempt to do.

Am I correct in guessing that the cooling process is this: the PC components (exc. drives) are in the tank, which is filled with mineral oil. A pump in the bottom of the case, circulates the oil heated by the components in the tank to the air-cooled rads which cool the oil.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes, you are correct. The mounting location of the pump is not certain yet, but it will either intake from the bottom of the tank or the top, pump the oil through the 2 air cooled rads, then return the cool oil to the tank.

I may try sealing the HDDs and dunking them in the oil as well. I have an older drive I was going to experiment on first.

Some fun math while bored:
Heat capacity of air: 1.0035kJ/(kg*K)
Heat capacity of mineral oil: 1.966kJ/(kg*K)
Heat capacity of water: 4.184kJ/(kg*K)
Quick definition: amount of heat required to raise 1kg of the substance 1C. You may notice that mineral oil is worse than water and hardly better than air!

Well, we're missing a little bit of important information.

Density of air: 1.2kg/m^3
Density of mineral oil: 800kg/m^3
Density of water: 998kg/m^3

Water may be more dense and have a higher heat capacity, but it is conductive. Air is very light and has a lowish heat capacity.

If my tank was 1m^3, I'd be able to dump the following amount of energy into it before it hit 100C, starting at 20C
air: 96.34kJ =
oil: 125824kJ
water: 334051kJ

So while water would be ideal, we'll have to go for 2nd place; mineral oil.
 
Water is not conductive in pure form. Only when it is a solution (aka ions are in solution with water), then it is conductive. Pure water is a molecule and the charge cannot flow freely across so it is non-conductive. Ions create a charged bridge across water. But it is indeed very hard to seal a system so there are no ions present. I wonder if an emulsifier such as alcohol in solution with water would help 'dissolve' mineral oil so that there is less chance of creating an ionic bridge across the solution.

Also, don't seal your HDD. There's a reason why there's the airhole. Its for when it spools up, the air pressure changes inside, and you don't want any extra pressure building up in your drive. I'd keep them above the surface.
 
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Water is not conductive in pure form. Only when it is a solution (aka ions are in solution with water), then it is conductive. Pure water is a molecule and the charge cannot flow freely across so it is non-conductive. Ions create a charged bridge across water. But it is indeed very hard to seal a system so there are no ions present. I wonder if an emulsifier such as alcohol in solution with water would help 'dissolve' mineral oil so that there is less chance of creating an ionic bridge across the solution.

Also, don't seal your HDD. There's a reason why there's the airhole. Its for when it spools up, the air pressure changes inside, and you don't want any extra pressure building up in your drive. I'd keep them above the surface.
Click to expand...

Yea, the problem is that even deionized water gains ions from just about everything too quickly to be used long term. I found a site where someone tested deionized water submersion. The PC lasted 5 minutes before the water gained enough free ions to short something.

As for the sealed hdd, that's the purpose of the test 😉 I'll be sacrificing an old IDE drive to the cause.
 
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Water is not conductive in pure form. Only when it is a solution (aka ions are in solution with water), then it is conductive. Pure water is a molecule and the charge cannot flow freely across so it is non-conductive. Ions create a charged bridge across water. But it is indeed very hard to seal a system so there are no ions present. I wonder if an emulsifier such as alcohol in solution with water would help 'dissolve' mineral oil so that there is less chance of creating an ionic bridge across the solution.

Also, don't seal your HDD. There's a reason why there's the airhole. Its for when it spools up, the air pressure changes inside, and you don't want any extra pressure building up in your drive. I'd keep them above the surface.
Click to expand...

I was thinking; are there additives, which you can add to pure water to maintain its non-conductivity?

What about considering other oils, like transformer oil?
 
Originally posted by: daw123
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Water is not conductive in pure form. Only when it is a solution (aka ions are in solution with water), then it is conductive. Pure water is a molecule and the charge cannot flow freely across so it is non-conductive. Ions create a charged bridge across water. But it is indeed very hard to seal a system so there are no ions present. I wonder if an emulsifier such as alcohol in solution with water would help 'dissolve' mineral oil so that there is less chance of creating an ionic bridge across the solution.

Also, don't seal your HDD. There's a reason why there's the airhole. Its for when it spools up, the air pressure changes inside, and you don't want any extra pressure building up in your drive. I'd keep them above the surface.
Click to expand...

I was thinking; are there additives, which you can add to pure water to maintain its non-conductivity?

What about considering other oils, like transformer oil?
Click to expand...

They use mineral oil in transformers 😉 I work for a major power utility and I visited the shop in which they service some of the broken/old transformers.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...og/log_0206091056a.jpg

I wanted to steal some 🙁
 
This is awesome! Keep us updated, I'm really interested in the rest of this build.

Also, this is the coolest thing ever:
Originally posted by: legoman666
If you don't want to read through the pages of comments, click "View Mode" then select "View Author's Posts" (Sure is nice to have modern message board software, isn't it?)
Click to expand...

 
Originally posted by: legoman666
Originally posted by: daw123
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Water is not conductive in pure form. Only when it is a solution (aka ions are in solution with water), then it is conductive. Pure water is a molecule and the charge cannot flow freely across so it is non-conductive. Ions create a charged bridge across water. But it is indeed very hard to seal a system so there are no ions present. I wonder if an emulsifier such as alcohol in solution with water would help 'dissolve' mineral oil so that there is less chance of creating an ionic bridge across the solution.

Also, don't seal your HDD. There's a reason why there's the airhole. Its for when it spools up, the air pressure changes inside, and you don't want any extra pressure building up in your drive. I'd keep them above the surface.
Click to expand...

I was thinking; are there additives, which you can add to pure water to maintain its non-conductivity?

What about considering other oils, like transformer oil?
Click to expand...

They use mineral oil in transformers 😉 I work for a major power utility and I visited the shop in which they service some of the broken/old transformers.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...og/log_0206091056a.jpg

I wanted to steal some 🙁
Click to expand...

Ah, I forgot that you had mentioned this previously. You will also already know the best oil to use since they use it in your industry.

 
Originally posted by: legoman666
Originally posted by: PCTC2
Water is not conductive in pure form. Only when it is a solution (aka ions are in solution with water), then it is conductive. Pure water is a molecule and the charge cannot flow freely across so it is non-conductive. Ions create a charged bridge across water. But it is indeed very hard to seal a system so there are no ions present. I wonder if an emulsifier such as alcohol in solution with water would help 'dissolve' mineral oil so that there is less chance of creating an ionic bridge across the solution.

Also, don't seal your HDD. There's a reason why there's the airhole. Its for when it spools up, the air pressure changes inside, and you don't want any extra pressure building up in your drive. I'd keep them above the surface.
Click to expand...

Yea, the problem is that even deionized water gains ions from just about everything too quickly to be used long term. I found a site where someone tested deionized water submersion. The PC lasted 5 minutes before the water gained enough free ions to short something.

As for the sealed hdd, that's the purpose of the test 😉 I'll be sacrificing an old IDE drive to the cause.
Click to expand...

Good luck. It might self-destruct in a few cycles. But I'd like to point out that I stated that water picks up ions easily. But I still wonder about an emulsified oil-water 35/30/35 mixture of water, emulsifier, and oil...
 

Direct link to log with pictures: http://forums.bit-tech.net/sho...?p=1919267#post1919267

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress25.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress26.jpg
I finally completed all 4 feet. I gave in and made them all using the hole saw; they just come out so much better this way. They're all fairly close to the same size; no differences big enough to discern once they'll be in place at the bottom of the case.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress27.jpg
All of the L brackets needed to complete the lower frame assembly.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress28.jpg
The top portion of the lower frame all put together.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress29.jpg
Decent macro shot of a corner.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress30.jpg
Hole tapping fun. :lol:

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress31.jpg
Completed drilling and tapping the risers.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress32.jpg
And then put it all together.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress34.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress35.jpg
Close ups of some corners.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress36.jpg
It's quite sturdy. I weigh 130lbs and it didn't flex at all.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress37.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress38.jpg
Checking the spacing just to make sure I didn't make the frame too small!

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...0log/log_the_plan1.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...0log/log_the_plan2.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...0log/log_the_plan3.jpg
Remember this?

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress39.jpg
Doing a few test cuts on a piece of scrap.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress40.jpg
And now doing the cuts on the real thing.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress41.jpg
From the other direction....

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress42.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress43.jpg
Checking the fit, looks good.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress45.jpg
View of both cuts. When I did these cuts, I backed out the screws about 1/4" to make sure I didn't chop parts of them off. If my calculations were correct, I wouldn't have cut into any screws even if I didn't back them out, but I wanted to be sure.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress44.jpg
Oh noes! The jig slipped! This piece is unsalvagable. I've already cut a new piece of bar stock to length and am preparing it to take the place of this one.

And that's where I stopped tonight. I'd once again like to thank Petra's Tech Shop, Danger Den and Crystalfontz for helping me out!

Thoughts?
 
Direct link to update with pictures: http://forums.bit-tech.net/sho...?p=1921309#post1921309

Something I've been working on...

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress46.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress47.jpg
LED chaser lights! Weeeee. It took me forever to get that thing wired up. There are two potentiometers, one controls the brightness and the other controls the speed.

Made a quick video demonstration:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNzpDnNeZ3w
Yea, for some reason, the pinout for the 3rd LED doesn't work on the IC. Don't know what's up with that. The plan is to arrange the LEDs in a circle and use the circuit for the HDD activity light. I'll probably stick the LEDs behind some frosted plexiglass to help diffuse the light as well. Should be pretty cool.

Here's the circuit I used: http://www.electronics-lab.com...s/games/003/index.html
Until next time...
 
How is the case fab progressing legoman666?

Nice circuit btw. Do the lights switch on and off in sequence, like the front LED display on KITT (I'm guessing this is what you mean by chaser lights)?
 
Originally posted by: daw123
How is the case fab progressing legoman666?

Nice circuit btw. Do the lights switch on and off in sequence, like the front LED display on KITT (I'm guessing this is what you mean by chaser lights)?
Click to expand...

I don't have time to do much serious work on the case during the week, I just do smaller things, like that circuit. Yes, the lights switch on and off in sequence, watch the youtube video I posted, it has a quick demonstration 😉 My lights are similar to KITT, but not the same, mine don't go back and forth. They just go across and start over from the beginning.
 
this
Originally posted by: legoman666
Originally posted by: daw123
How is the case fab progressing legoman666?

Nice circuit btw. Do the lights switch on and off in sequence, like the front LED display on KITT (I'm guessing this is what you mean by chaser lights)?
Click to expand...

I don't have time to do much serious work on the case during the week, I just do smaller things, like that circuit. Yes, the lights switch on and off in sequence, watch the youtube video I posted, it has a quick demonstration 😉 My lights are similar to KITT, but not the same, mine don't go back and forth. They just go across and start over from the beginning.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. Sorry I didn't watch the video; I couldn't since my slow broadband connection would ah heck up my downloads.

And thank you for the work log; I'm interested in your works progress and what the finished product will be like, since metal fab interests me.

I've always wanted to learn how to weld and carry out basic metal fab work, but unfortunately since I live in a predominantly academic community (Oxford, UK) there are not many places in the local area, where I can go to evening courses. Plus my vocation isn't linked to metal working, so I couldn't get financial help from work for course fees (some of the fab work / welding courses cost £500+).

I'm happy that I accomplished this and thisfab without ruining the top panel, even though it was very simple compared to what you are attempting.
 
Direct link to update with pictures: http://forums.bit-tech.net/sho...?p=1921959#post1921959

Friday Night Modding

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress50.jpg
As tired as I am tonight, I decided to do some work.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress51.jpg
I cut a piece of aluminum left over from my last mod to the width of the bottom of the frame. This piece will not be visible unless you somehow.... well no I can't even think of a way.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress52.jpg
Checking the fit on the frame, looks good.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress53.jpg
Using my trusty right angle...

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress54.jpg
...I cut the piece to length. (Dumb camera wouldn't cooperate for this pic)

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress55.jpg
I used my little puncher device to mark spots to drill. (Yes, this one isn't on the line. The line is in the wrong spot, not the punch)

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress56.jpg
Drilling the holes for the screws that hold the sheet onto the frame.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress57.jpg
I learned on my previous mod that it is impossible to drill the holes on the sheet and frame separate. No matter how well you measure the spacing, the holes will never all line up properly. The best method is to tape the two pieces together and drill them at the same time.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress58.jpg
More holes to tap :wallbash:

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress59.jpg
Using the drill to screw the panel to the frame.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress60.jpg
Not really sure what my camera was trying to focus on... the reflection I guess.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress61.jpg
Looks pretty good.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress62.jpg
Marking out the spacing for the case feet.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress64.jpg
Drilling the holes through the feet and then into the bottom panel.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress63.jpg
Then I screwed them on. The middle hole is for the LED to light up the feet.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress65.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress66.jpg
All four feet mounted.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress67.jpg
View from the front.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress48.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress49.jpg
Also got a few more goodies in the mail; an aluminum ATX back panel frame, slim slot loading USB DVD burner, a 7 port USB hub that will be internalized in the bottom compartment, and a 4oz bottle of Weld-On #4 acrylic glue.

Until tomorrow...

Originally posted by: daw123

Thanks for the response. Sorry I didn't watch the video; I couldn't since my slow broadband connection would ah heck up my downloads.

And thank you for the work log; I'm interested in your works progress and what the finished product will be like, since metal fab interests me.

I've always wanted to learn how to weld and carry out basic metal fab work, but unfortunately since I live in a predominantly academic community (Oxford, UK) there are not many places in the local area, where I can go to evening courses. Plus my vocation isn't linked to metal working, so I couldn't get financial help from work for course fees (some of the fab work / welding courses cost £500+).

I'm happy that I accomplished this and thisfab without ruining the top panel, even though it was very simple compared to what you are attempting.
Click to expand...



Heh, I don't know the first thing about welding.😀 If I ever needed to do some welding, I'd have to hit up my neighbor, I know he does some. I'm an EE student, the only practical stuff we do is little electronics labs. That cutout for the rad looks pretty good, did you use a dremel for that? (I despise using the dremel)
 
Originally posted by: legoman666

Heh, I don't know the first thing about welding.😀 If I ever needed to do some welding, I'd have to hit up my neighbor, I know he does some. I'm an EE student, the only practical stuff we do is little electronics labs. That cutout for the rad looks pretty good, did you use a dremel for that? (I despise using the dremel)
Click to expand...

No I didn't use a Dremel. I thought it would be too aggresive and it could damage the panel since the ally is so thin.

This is how I did it: I cut out the internal shape on a piece of ply to make a jig. I then sandwiched the top panel between the jig and a piece of sacrificial ply, and drilled a couple of holes in the centre of what I wanted to cut out. Then it was a case of placing the piece on a router table with a straight cutting bit and routed out the shape. The ball bearing on the router bit followed the shape of the jig and the cuts were perfect.
 
Direct link to update with pictures: http://forums.bit-tech.net/sho...?p=1922695#post1922695

An update of work thus far this weekend:

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress68.jpg
Busting out the table saw to rip a few more side panels to size.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress69.jpg
Fit looks good...

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress70.jpg
...But no so much here. But don't worry, it's a lot easier to file a panel to the correct size than it is to make a new one because it was too small.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress71.jpg
Mounting the rad grill and radiator.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress75.jpg
Using the provided template to cut out the hole.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress76.jpg
And after much cursing, yelling, tears and then filing... lots of filing. Jig saw = fail. I couldn't find a way to securely hold the panel down while trying to cut out the middle. Jig saws do not like cutting objects that can vibrate freely.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress72.jpg
I cut 4 pieces of 1/2" angle to length.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress73.jpg
2 of them mounted.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress74.jpg
I countersunk some screws to allow the side panels to fit snugly over the corners.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress77.jpg
Got the hole nice and filed with the rad and grill mounted.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress78.jpg
The other side.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress80.jpg
I cut another piece of sheet to fit the back of the case.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress81.jpg
And then filed it to size, drilled, tapped and screwed it on. The screw on the middle left is in too far. And once again the camera is focusing on who knows what.

http://i28.photobucket.com/alb...log/log_progress79.jpg
Poor USB hub never knew what hit it.

And that's where I stopped today. I'm sick and feeling all around miserable. Probably won't go to work tomorrow. In which case I'll probably work on the remaining side panels. Another sponsor may also be in the works. They offered some of their next gen SSDs, which have not been released yet. They might not be released in time for this project, but maybe for a future mod...

Thought?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top