FINALLY bought a camera. What else do I need? Uv filter, memory, strap etc...

[glen]

Here is my first DSLR purchase - been waiting years to afford this.
Canon EOS Rebel SL1 DSLR Camera Body Only
Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM Auto Focus Lens for Canon
Canon Deluxe Photo Backpack 200EG

So, I think I at least need a UV filter, a memory card, and a decent camera strap, right?
Anything else?

 

[shortylickens]

What are you planning to shoot?

I'd recommend an 18-135mm lens for general purpose shooting.
Consider a spare battery, and if possible a car charger, and/or charger that does multiple batteries at one time.

I recommend a flash that can point upward. Bouncing off the ceiling works so well I am amazed more people dont do it.

 

[RCFB]

Congratulations on your purchase.

I would recommend getting an extra battery, another memory card or two and a memory card reader (unless your computer already has one). Those items aren't very expensive and are handy to have.

Personally, I don't use my UV filter. My lens protection is the lens hood, which I always use (just my preference). The only filter that I use, currently, is a circular polarizer, but those can get a little pricey.

You may want to start thinking about a tripod, but those can get expensive - you may not need one right away.

If you start to buy multiple memory cards it would be helpful to have a little case to put them in (just to keep them handy, instead of rooting around your camera bag for them - like I used to do). They are small and cheap.

Do you have a microfiber cloth for cleaning your lens?

Check out some of those "what do I have in my bag" videos on YouTube to see what others carry. Usually they focus on their camera bodies and lenses, but some of them do show the little odds and ends that are useful but not a glamorous.

 

[CuriousMike]

I'd recommend not buying anything and spending your time reading compositional tutorials and practicing with what you have.

 

[glen]

I'd recommend not buying anything and spending your time reading compositional tutorials and practicing with what you have.

Well, sure, but at a minimum, I probably at least need to buy a memory card.

 

[CuriousMike]

Well, sure, but at a minimum, I probably at least need to buy a memory card.

Right - that's sorta obvious.

 

[Rottie]

I was told by other forum about the UV filters they are only to protect your lens bless.

 

[MrSquished]

i don't think a UV filter is necessary. save your money. as mentioned , a hood just fine for protection from bumps, unless you are really going to be in windy conditions all the time with sand whipping about. most people i know never use a UV filter and never had issues.

if you do get a UV filter, find one of the better ones and pay for it. at the end of the day, every one of your shots is going to now be taken not just through your lens, but through your filter. if it's a cheap mediocre UV filter, well, you just downgraded your IQ a bit.

but yeah, memory card, comfy strap, extra battery and that's it. and card reader as also mentioned. then, shoot.

 

[Paladin3]

Don't buy anything else until you understand why you need it. Even then, make sure the purchase is to genuinely increase your ability to shoot, not just simple gear-lust.

If you have to buy something right now, get a comfy pair of waking shoes or hiking boots and go shoot.

 

[glen]

So, does the memory card matter much?
I think 16gigs woudl be plenty.
Does brand matter or anything else?

 

[Kanalua]

Great lens. the 35mm on a crop will give you ~ 56mm. Go out and shoot!

If you find you constantly want to go wide, then for for something wider. If you find yourself wanting more reach, then get a telephoto.

Shoot RAW, learn Lightroom and enjoy!

 

[AkumaX]

So, does the memory card matter much?
I think 16gigs woudl be plenty.
Does brand matter or anything else?

Do you plan on shooting burst RAW?
If so, you should get a fast card that can catch up to the SL1's write buffer from camera to card.
This is what matters most for your camera.
Ignore ratings, marks, etc.. what REALLY matters is how the card ACTUALLY performs.

This is an example video for the NEX series. You could do something similar for Canon, but this is just so you'd understand why you'd need a fast card for RAW bursts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkgNgXqYbqk

If the SL1's are similar to any of the other Canon's (T2i->T5i, 60D, 6D, 5Dmk3), then the max speed you'd require would be around 20-25MB/s write.

Example 1: SanDisk Ultra 30MB/s UHS-I Class 10
- in this case, the 30MB/s is referencing the read speed
- the actual write speed is around 11-13MB/s, so you'd be at almost 1/2 of what the buffer is.

Example 2: SanDisk Extreme 45MB/s UHS-I Class 10
- in this case, the 45MB/s references both read and write speed
- even though it can have write speeds up to 45MB/s, your camera can only write as fast as 20-25MB/s, so theoretically this card is "overkill"

Example 3: Sony SDHC 22MB/s Class 10
- this card performs around 20-22MB/s read, but 10-11MB/s write.
- again, not fast enough to catch up to your buffer.

Example 4: Sony SDHC 94MB/s UHS-I Class 10
- this card performs around 75-80MB/s read, but 44-46MB/s write.
- again, even though it can have write speeds up to 45MB/s, your camera can only write as fast as 20-25MB/s, so theoretically this card is "overkill"

My goal is to find a card around 25MB/s write, that is cheap. So far, something like that doesn't exist.

Best I've done is have a 32GB SanDisk Extreme 45MB/s for around $27 on sale, and the Sony 94MB/s for around $18 on sale.

 

[glen]

Plan to alway shoot in RAW.
Not too sure I will use burst much.
I do plan to try using HDR, does that involve burst shooting?

 

[AkumaX]

Plan to alway shoot in RAW.
Not too sure I will use burst much.
I do plan to try using HDR, does that involve burst shooting?

Yeah! since you would probably bracket in 3 shots, then a fast card is a must.

I would have said 5 brackets, but the Rebel's buffer only holds up to 3-4 shots. Then the next shot is contingent on how fast the buffer clears for the next shot (could be 1 sec per raw, or 2-3 sec per raw)

 

[glen]

Yeah! since you would probably bracket in 3 shots, then a fast card is a must.

I would have said 5 brackets, but the Rebel's buffer only holds up to 3-4 shots. Then the next shot is contingent on how fast the buffer clears for the next shot (could be 1 sec per raw, or 2-3 sec per raw)

Cool. I understand the theory, but not how it works practically. So, do you get 3 burst photos, but they are slightly different - how does it automatically combine them? Is the software that good that it can work with moving subjects?

 

[Kanalua]

Start here: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php

There is a great section for post-processing: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18

The Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM example thread: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1249570

Cool. I understand the theory, but not how it works practically. So, do you get 3 burst photos, but they are slightly different - how does it automatically combine them? Is the software that good that it can work with moving subjects?

Read up: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=130

 

[iGas]

Cool. I understand the theory, but not how it works practically. So, do you get 3 burst photos, but they are slightly different - how does it automatically combine them? Is the software that good that it can work with moving subjects?

I do not know what software comes with a Rebel, but my 5D mkII does bust of 3 shots, and I use third party software to combine the shots for HDR.

IMHO, speed doesn't affect HRD ability so much because software can re alight the shots with the ability to erase ghosting.

You can use exposure compensation with bracketing to increase your shots in several sequences, so more than 3 shots is possible. Or, use the hack that allow it with mirror lockup and up to 9 shots bracketing.

 

[glen]

I do not know what software comes with a Rebel, but my 5D mkII does bust of 3 shots, and I use third party software to combine the shots for HDR.

IMHO, speed doesn't affect HRD ability so much because software can re alight the shots with the ability to erase ghosting.

You can use exposure compensation with bracketing to increase your shots in several sequences, so more than 3 shots is possible. Or, use the hack that allow it with mirror lockup.

Seems like it would auto mirror up for that. Hmmm..
So, basically, the image combination is called tonal mapping, correct?
Do I do it in camera, or post processing? Thinking about getting some software. I don't want to learn photoshop. Surely other software will do this.

 

[AkumaX]

Seems like it would auto mirror up for that. Hmmm..
So, basically, the image combination is called tonal mapping, correct?
Do I do it in camera, or post processing? Thinking about getting some software. I don't want to learn photoshop. Surely other software will do this.

All the Canon's will auto bracket (most up to -2/+2), but only the 5Dmk3 will auto-combine (in RAW) and 6D will auto-combine (in JPEG)

How soon till SL1 gets Magic Lantern

 

[glen]

What is Magic Lantern?
Oh, is it a firmware hack that would allow in camera HDR, a'la 5Dmk3?
Wow, wouldn't that be cool?

 

[Throckmorton]

Get a UV filter only as a substitute for a lens cap. You should take it off to take pics unless you really need to protect the lens from blowing dirt or something.

 

[iGas]

What is Magic Lantern?

Magic Lantern is a hack that allow up to 9 bracketed shots, and many more features into your camera.

IMHO, +/-2 stop is more than ample for HDR. If you have the need for great the range then, you can also switch to M mode (manual), and extend the exposure range to what ever level that you need.

Most things in full shadow would be about -2 stop from your incident reading, and +2 stops more than incident reading for blue sky exposure. Hence there isn't much of a need to extend the range, and you can also use Lightroom or any software to push pull the exposure before combining them for HDR.

 

[blastingcap]

So, does the memory card matter much?
I think 16gigs woudl be plenty.
Does brand matter or anything else?

16GB is plenty. Look at write speeds, not read speeds. You probably want at least 20 MB/s even if you don't think you need it. Read speeds can be whatever, they don't matter as much because you don't rely on them when shooting/waiting for buffer to clear, only when uploading... and you can always get up and eat a sandwich or something even if you had to upload 128GB at 20 MB/s.

Sandisk/Toshiba, Lexar (a subsidiary of Crucial), and a few others like Panasonic make their own flash. Buy from them. With every other brand you are taking a risk that that brand bought good flash. E.g., Kingston buys their flash from a variety of vendors so you usually don't know what you're gonna get inside, and for something critical like flash I'd rather not have it be a box of chocolates. But even I have been known to buy Kingston if the price is good enough, since they almost always source relatively good flash from majors like Sandisk. It might not be the A+ grade flash (so to speak), but sometimes A- grade is good enough.

 

[cantholdanymore]

Go out an shoot like somebody said already. Don't go too crazy on expending money now because you'll probably figure out soon that you'll need another lens.

 

[glen]

I can't shoot yet because the camera won't arrive till after April 30, I believe. Do you need photoshop these days? Photomatix? Lightroom? All 3?