Feed back request on UPS

[dfanatic86]

Looking to buy one with a week or two. Is there a certain watt range i should look for? Or go balls out? Sorry for the the terminology :biggrin:

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

You need to decide what your needs are. Then determine what capacity will meet those needs. I've always thought the purpose of a UPS is to give you time to finish any critical jobs and safely shut down. Some folks look at UPS as an alternative power source. Seems kind of silly to me but, to each their own.

 

[smangular]

Well what are you trying to protect? home/business Any how important is it both save work if you loose power and also give you a few minutes to complete a task before shutting down?

Even with a UPS for particular important hardware, I recommend additionally getting a high end surge strip with tight tolerances, since they in many cases have tighter surge protection than most consumer UPSs.

 

[dfanatic86]

I don't plan on using it if power goes out. I recently had a power surge and it made me worry. I just want to be able to shut down safely and unplug. So surge protector to wall outlet and ups plug to surge?

 

[Andle Riddum]

A good surge protector might suffice in your case. No, it's not a good idea to daisy chain surge protecting devices. Also check if your outlet is properly grounded, it's essential for any SPD's.

 

[dfanatic86]

Thanks for clarifying, I've already checked the plug, I do a lot of hot checking at work. And it's good.

 

[westom]

I recently had a power surge and it made me worry. I just want to be able to shut down safely and unplug.

Those adjacent protectors do not claim to protect from typically destructive surges. Read its spec numbers. Some $100 protectors are electrically no different than one selling in Wal-Mart for $10.

Facilities that cannot have damage do not waste money on those protectors. Instead, use one competely different device that just happens to also be called a protector. One properly earthed 'whole house' protector means protection for everything from all types of surges. The 'whole house' solution and upgraded earthing is routine in any facility that cannot have damage. The superior solution typically costs about $1 per protected appliance.

 

[bud--]

Excellent information on surges and surge protection is at:
http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf
And also:
http://www.eeel.nist.gov/817/pubs/spd-anthology/files/Surges happen!.pdf

The IEEE surge guide is aimed at people with some technical background.

Those adjacent protectors do not claim to protect from typically destructive surges.

Nonsense. Some of them even have protected equipment warranties.

Both the IEEE and NIST surge guides say plug-in protectors are effective.

When using a plug-in protector all interconnected equipment needs to be connected to the same protector. External connections, like coax also must go through the protector. That also applies to UPSs that have surge protection included, which is probably all of them.

One properly earthed 'whole house' protector means protection for everything from all types of surges.

Service panel protectors are a real good idea.
But from the NIST guide:
"Q - Will a surge protector installed at the service entrance be sufficient for the whole house?
A - There are two answers to than question: Yes for one-link appliances [electronic equipment], No for two-link appliances [equipment connected to power AND phone or cable or....]. Since most homes today have some kind of two-link appliances, the prudent answer to the question would be NO - but that does not mean that a surge protector installed at the service entrance is useless."

Service panel protectors do not by themselves prevent high voltages from developing between power and phone/cable/... wires. The NIST surge guide suggests most equipment damage is from high voltage between power and signal wires. An example of where a service panel protector would provide no protection is the IEEE surge guide example starting page 30.

-----------------------------------------
A plug-in surge protector will actually work with no branch circuit ground, but it is really not a good idea to use one that way unless the load has only a power connection and it is 2 prong (no ground).

Otherwise, I agree with what everyone but westom has written.

 

[MoInSTL]

OP, I looked up your PSU. It said it uses PFC (Power Factor Correction): Active PFC

May want to do some research on PFC as it relates to a UPS. A lot of newer power supplies have PFC. Mine does too so I went with a UPS that has adaptive sinewave. (Pure sinewave is very expensive).

 

[westom]

OP, I looked up your PSU. It said it uses PFC (Power Factor Correction): Active PFC

Active and passive PFC are different. 'Dirty' power from a UPS can sometimes confuse some "active" PFC circuits. You (apparently) have 'active' PFC. Passive PFC is more tolerant.

 

[dfanatic86]

Researched a little and here's what i came up with. From what Im reading you need a pure sine wave UPS to actually provide power interruption protection. PFC PSU needs a faster change over time when the battery takes over, due to the design of stepped sine wave UPSs, they aren't always fast enough to satisfy the needs of the power supply. This could lead to the PSU shutting down when the battery tries to kick in. I also just looked at some price and I immediately said "Ouch". There expensive, can you say surge protector!

 

[westom]

Researched a little and here's what i came up with. From what Im reading you need a pure sine wave UPS to actually provide power interruption protection. PFC PSU needs a faster change over time when the battery takes over, due to the design of stepped sine wave UPSs,

All power supplies including active PFC must operate normally even with a 17 mec interruption. No UPS - even a $60 UPS - must take that long to switch over.

 

[tweakboy]

You don't need to go all out since its protecting or powering one computer.

Grab the same wattage as your current PSU , 50w less or more doesnt matter. gl

 

[MoInSTL]

Researched a little and here's what i came up with. From what Im reading you need a pure sine wave UPS to actually provide power interruption protection. PFC PSU needs a faster change over time when the battery takes over, due to the design of stepped sine wave UPSs, they aren't always fast enough to satisfy the needs of the power supply. This could lead to the PSU shutting down when the battery tries to kick in. I also just looked at some price and I immediately said "Ouch". There expensive, can you say surge protector!

I warned you about the price.

Used to use the trusty APC units. Just plugged it in and that was it. Haven't had one in awhile.

FWIW, I went with a 1350 Cyberpower. I picked mine up for $179.

NE has it $5 less. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...20CP1350PFCLCD

You may want to go higher depending on what all you plan on plugging into it.

 

[tweakboy]

You dont need a PSU ,

All you need is a good Surge Protector with lots of inputs. I live in Los Angeles area, in the past when it rains which is never,,,,, power shuts down ,,,, Ive had many of those over my time with PC's and not one PC or hard drive has gone bad with these power outages.... You need a PSU maybe if you live in Kansas or Florida and what not. Grab a quality surge protector that has at least 8 inputs.... always leave it on,, the switch,,,, when you shut off comp. gl

 

[Blain]

You dont need a PSU ,

All you need is a good Surge Protector with lots of inputs. I live in Los Angeles area, in the past when it rains which is never,,,,, power shuts down ,,,, Ive had many of those over my time with PC's and not one PC or hard drive has gone bad with these power outages.... You need a PSU maybe if you live in Kansas or Florida and what not. Grab a quality surge protector that has at least 8 inputs.... always leave it on,, the switch,,,, when you shut off comp. gl

Would you buy a MOV equipped model?

 

[Red Squirrel]

Since you're not looking for extended run time pretty much any home grade APC unit should do. Go for 1000VA as that is about 600w so it's enough for even a high end gaming machine + couple monitors and then some. They are priced pretty well too and can be picked up at most stores like Staples or Future Shop so it saves on having to order online.

 

[bud--]

Would you buy a MOV equipped model?

Almost all of them, including UPSs, use MOVs for power line protection.

 

[Blain]

Almost all of them, including UPSs, use MOVs for power line protection.

Most but not all surge suppressors use MOV's.
Teakboy advised... "Grab a quality surge protector that has at least 8 inputs..."
That's why I queried him about the type he'd recommend.

 

[philipma1957]

Looking to buy one with a week or two. Is there a certain watt range i should look for? Or go balls out? Sorry for the the terminology :biggrin:

consider refurbished

http://excessups.com/

http://excessups.com/smartups-2200-rackmount-su2200rm3u-p-53.html

http://excessups.com/smartups-1400-su1400net-beige-p-40.html

http://excessups.com/smart-1500-rackmount-sua1500rm2u-p-57.html

i own the 3 above they all have worked fine they are about half price as a refurb. this seller has a big ebay store or directly online your choice.

 

[Red Squirrel]

If you get lucky get one that has no batteries, will weigh less and cost less in shipping. You can buy batteries locally at an electrical supply place. Most of the refurbished UPSes I've found on ebay have batteries, and shipping is a couple hundred bucks though, so it's usually cheaper to buy from a site like newegg as they don't rape on shipping as much as people on ebay do.

There's a local place called Dixon Electric and I get my UPS batteries there. Usually like $20 for two batteries vs $100 what APC asks for one of the exact same battery. When I want to oversize for extended run I go to Canadian Tire and get marine batteries. Though I find you are better off using an inverter-charger for extended run as it's designed for it.