Favorite fertilizer?

[turtile]

Lol most garden places will offer to do a soil test for free. They need a tablespoon of soil. Or buy a test kit from them. Im in NH and our soils tend to become slowly acidic over time so I add small amount of powdered limestone once a year. Effect of acid rain. Even so, it is 7-7.5 most of the time on on the PH scale

You can also send it to the nearest university.

What do you grow that prefers alkaline soil? Most plants prefer a slightly acidic soil (6.5).

Organic material and the use nitrogen fertilizers can lower the pH.

 

[NetWareHead]

You can also send it to the nearest university.

What do you grow that prefers alkaline soil? Most plants prefer a slightly acidic soil (6.5).

Organic material and the use nitrogen fertilizers can lower the pH.

Some plants/shrubs like it a a little more acidic or basic but most of the time I try to adjust the soil towards neutral.

 

[Muse]

Copper fungicide from Bionide. I get the same fungal infection of my squashes/zucchini and it works great. Organic too which is important if you spray on veggies u will be eating later. You will need a sprayer to apply. It kills all molds, mildews, blight and leaf spot. You have to apply it even if you don't see it. Try to apply when you have a few days where no rai n is expected. Apply after rain and apply extra in humid conditions as the fungus thrives in moist environments. I apply it weekly even if no mold is visinle and keep the mold away entirely. I've seen the fungus devour an entire plant killing all of the leaves.

What kind of sprayer do I need? What I've been using to spray a solution of baking soda is just one of those squeeze trigger plastic spray bottles you can get for a few bucks at hardware stores. Do I need something more sophisticated than that? It wears out your hand a little, but I make do. Maybe something more sophisticated is in order for Copper fungicide from Bionide?

Uh, and where do you get your Bionide? Is Amazon a good place? Where can I get the best deal on it? I'm going near a Walmart tomorrow probably, also Orchard Supply Hardware and a large Ace hardware.

Yeah, yearly I've seen my kabocha squash patches pretty much eaten alive by fungus. If I hadn't controlled it some with baking soda the whole patch would have been devoured in a couple of weeks, I think. Even so, the fungus got me pretty bad. However, my crops have been pretty good because the squashes grew before the fungus took over. If I can stop the fungus I'd probably get a lot more crop yield and they would ripen a lot better.

 

[turtile]

Just get a simple pump sprayer from Ace. The big ones break and leak all the time.

As for copper fungicide, you'll want to use a spreader sticker otherwise it will just wash right off and won't cover the leaf uniformly. Copper is toxic to plants in large quantities so you don't want to spray constantly. Also, make sure the copper used is basic (high pH). Copper is more readily absorbed at low pH so it becomes toxic faster.

If you use a lot, I recommend the following:
http://www.pestrong.com/864-cupro-5000-fungicide-bactericide-df-copper-hydroxide-kocide-3lb.html

http://www.pestrong.com/286-spreader-sticker-for-herbicide-insecticide-1pt.html

There's also another product which is less toxic. I haven't tried it yet so I can't say if it's worth using:

http://www.pestrong.com/712-milstop-organic-water-soluble-broad-spectrum-foliar-fungicide-5lb.html

 

[Muse]

Just get a simple pump sprayer from Ace. The big ones break and leak all the time.

As for copper fungicide, you'll want to use a spreader sticker otherwise it will just wash right off and won't cover the leaf uniformly. Copper is toxic to plants in large quantities so you don't want to spray constantly. Also, make sure the copper used is basic (high pH). Copper is more readily absorbed at low pH so it becomes toxic faster.

If you use a lot, I recommend the following:
http://www.pestrong.com/864-cupro-5000-fungicide-bactericide-df-copper-hydroxide-kocide-3lb.html

http://www.pestrong.com/286-spreader-sticker-for-herbicide-insecticide-1pt.html

There's also another product which is less toxic. I haven't tried it yet so I can't say if it's worth using:

http://www.pestrong.com/712-milstop-organic-water-soluble-broad-spectrum-foliar-fungicide-5lb.html

I am ordering those first two products, the 3 lb. and pint of spreader.

How do I assure that the copper is basic? Is it in the formulation or do I have to test it or add something?

I sometimes have significant fungus on my tomatoes, although it's nothing like I always get on my squash. Can/should I use some this on the tomatoes?

Can you be more specific about the sprayer? I'm going to stop at Ace today and see what they have. By a pump sprayer to you mean something you pump up, then go out and spray, or is it one of those simply spray bottles that you pull on a spring leader trigger? I'll see what Ace has. If it's significantly different from what you recommend, I'll bring it back. My squash are just taking off now, it'll be a few weeks before I would expect any kind of obvious fungal attack, maybe another two months, but I guess it's best to start early with some control.

 

[turtile]

I am ordering those first two products, the 3 lb. and pint of spreader.

How do I assure that the copper is basic? Is it in the formulation or do I have to test it or add something?

I sometimes have significant fungus on my tomatoes, although it's nothing like I always get on my squash. Can/should I use some this on the tomatoes?

Can you be more specific about the sprayer? I'm going to stop at Ace today and see what they have. By a pump sprayer to you mean something you pump up, then go out and spray, or is it one of those simply spray bottles that you pull on a spring leader trigger? I'll see what Ace has. If it's significantly different from what you recommend, I'll bring it back. My squash are just taking off now, it'll be a few weeks before I would expect any kind of obvious fungal attack, maybe another two months, but I guess it's best to start early with some control.

The product I linked is a hydroxide so you don't have to worry about pH.

Something like this:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272962

or this:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276061

Just remember to clean the sprayer out with each use. Very important! Rinse everything out three times.

All fungal diseases are better treated before signs/symptoms show. But since copper can cause damage if used regularly, it's best to wait right before the ideal conditions for the disease. (warm, cloudy, humid for days)

I'm not sure which disease you have on your squash but it might be a good idea to use sulfur if it's powdery mildew (white on surface) instead since copper is less effective on that water mould (fungus-like).

http://www.pestrong.com/116-sulfur-dust-powder-fungicide-5lbs.html

 

[Muse]

The product I linked is a hydroxide so you don't have to worry about pH.

Something like this:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272962

or this:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276061

Just remember to clean the sprayer out with each use. Very important! Rinse everything out three times.

All fungal diseases are better treated before signs/symptoms show. But since copper can cause damage if used regularly, it's best to wait right before the ideal conditions for the disease. (warm, cloudy, humid for days)

I'm not sure which disease you have on your squash but it might be a good idea to use sulfur if it's powdery mildew (white on surface) instead since copper is less effective on that water mould (fungus-like).

http://www.pestrong.com/116-sulfur-dust-powder-fungicide-5lbs.html

I was on my way to Ace yesterday (actually a 20 miler to keep my seldom-used car fit, along with a Costco stop, then Ace), and decided to stop at Orchard Supply Hardware (they were on the way), and bought a 1/2 gallon sprayer for $9.99. After Costco I hit Ace and saw they had a similar (evidently, it was in the box) for $11.99. I went back to Orchard Supply, because the sprayer I'd bought said on the side you should read the instruction booklet and it didn't come with one. They had a half a dozen, but they were all sitting on the shelf, no boxes, no instructions.

I went back to the rack and found a gallon one (the brands were Hudson for both) at the same price, in box with instructions. One box was open and I saw that the trigger was a much better design, release it and it stops spraying, the 1/2 gallon one you had to pull back on its trigger to stop spraying. So, it being the same price, I simply exchanged it ($9.99). I may never want to use a gallon, but I can always 1/2 fill it, I figure. Less liquid means there's more air, I won't have to pump it as often, but will have to pump it more to get the initial pressure. They had another Hudson 1 gallon sprayer that was around $23, don't know why so much more expensive, they were all in the box, I couldn't inspect one. Decided to go with the $9.99 1 gallon sprayer and hope it's OK. When I bought the 1/2 gallon one I read back to her what you said in the thread about the large ones always breaking and leaking. Her response was that I should always rinse the sprayer after use with hot water.

Interesting about the garden sulfur. I actually have some that I bought to fight the fungus, don't think I ever tried it. Can I mix it with water and use it in the sprayer? I'll have to research this. The fungus looks kind of light grey. It really takes over the plants if I don't do something. In recent years I've sprayed a baking soda solution on the plants, it seems to retard the fungus spread but the fungus has always won, generally after the crop's come in, so I still get a really big crop. If I could control the fungus, the plants would remain good looking (well, a ton better than a fungus infested site of devastation), and I'd probably get even greater yields and the squash (kabochas, Japanese pumpkins) would ripen a lot better.

Edit: Looking, I see that I have an empty 1 lb. canister of garden sulfur, I thought I must have put the sulfur in another container and kept the original for the instructions, but I can't find the sulfur, maybe I used it all. I really don't remember using it, must have been a long time ago. I also have a container of copper-oil fungicide that I bought to control the peach leaf curl on my two dwarf peach trees. Those trees eventually died! That stuff is evidently not for spraying, at least not to control powdery mildew on vegetables, the instructions are to spray in the fall to control peach leaf curl, shot hole fungus or brown rot.

Maybe I'll order that sulfur.... I went ahead and ordered the sulfur. Sites I hit mentioned it as a fungicide control for mildew on cucurbits. One said you have to treat before symptoms appear or it's too late. As soon as I get it, I'll apply some. Most of the plants are very small now, but 2-3 are getting big very quickly now.

Part of my problem is undoubtedly my growing techniques. I don't overhead water, but the plants are planted very thickly together (I never thin!), and the vines go crazy, I train them up trellises and out on the concrete courtyard. The area is not terribly humid during the growing season in general compared to some places but not particularly dry either. 50% humidity isn't unusual, or higher. Mornings are below the dew point. I compost, have probably gotten a lot of spores in the pile, so they are in the ground majorly. Hopefully, the sulfer will control. Not sure if I will use the copper stuff.

I may want to try some of this stuff on the tomatoes, but they always do very very well compared to the squash, the upper growth generally survives everything except the onset of fall weather, when their growing vigor slowly disappears.

 

[Muse]

I looked some more and found my garden sulfur! I'd put it in a tougher container and retained the original empty container for the instructions, etc. It's around 21 ounces. So, I'll have 5 lb. more! Seems like a good enough deal...

Thanks!

 

[turtile]

Don't spray until the conditions are right - sulfur will damage cucumbers if used constantly, especially during hot weather.

I always get fungal infections in my tomatoes in fall here too!

 

[Muse]

Don't spray until the conditions are right - sulfur will damage cucumbers if used constantly, especially during hot weather.

I always get fungal infections in my tomatoes in fall here too!

I grew cucumbers one season over 30 years ago, spectacular crop. Nowadays the only cucurbit I grow is kabocha squash (Japanese pumpkins). It won't be hot here except on infrequent occasions. Today and tomorrow will be the hottest days of the week, it may reach 80 degrees in my yard. 90 degree days happen maybe 7-10 days a year on average. Variations from year to year can be dramatic, last year was probably the warmest year on record overall, but I don't recall a serious heat wave (i.e. upper 90's or higher).

IIRC, my tomatoes have often had some fungal activity in the middle of the season, no particularly at the end, I could be wrong. The plants start to look not so great as the season wears on, of course.

I'll do some searching on the sulfur spray. I'll hold off for now, I don't expect to see any mold forming for a couple of months. They say if you wait until you see mold it's too late, though, so I will be playing a guessing game to some extent.

 

[Muse]

I got my shipments of the 3 lb. copper, the sticker, the 5 lb. sulfur. I'm wondering if I will have use for the copper given your thought that sulfur might be the better idea. As I said, I grow tomatoes (6 plants yearly, that grow BIG, yielding probably over 100 lb. of tomatoes), and kabocha squash (I weighed my crop as harvested last year at a total of 170 lb!).

Should I consider returning the copper and sticker? I don't know their return policies... or should I keep them in anticipation that I may have use for them at some point?

 

[turtile]

Well, it's hard to say how many times you'll be able to use sulfur in comparison to copper (before you get damage - every plant is different).

You'll have enough copper to last for years! So if you don't have a good dry place to store, it might be a better idea to try to return. Just depends on if it's worth the shipping cost...

 

[Denly]

Year round Denly water recycle model - 2 big pot of water for cats, 2 days later that 2 big pot of water go into my fish tanks after water change, fishes waste use as everyday plant water. Repeat.

Summer - Pee + water, in the peak of veg season I also add miracle gro.

I also do compost.

 

[Muse]

Well, it's hard to say how many times you'll be able to use sulfur in comparison to copper (before you get damage - every plant is different).

You'll have enough copper to last for years! So if you don't have a good dry place to store, it might be a better idea to try to return. Just depends on if it's worth the shipping cost...

A dry place I can't always guarantee, my house can get humid inside at times, however I can keep things in air tight containers, and I have a supply of dessicant I bought some time ago that I use at times.

I haven't even opened the packages, I don't know how the copper (or sulfur) is configured, but I assume the copper is in the form of a compound, a dry powder, and I figure I can store it in air tight jar(s). That's basically what I did with my previous (unused) Chevron Flotox sulfur, I removed it from the cylindrical cardboard container that it came in and put it in an airtight plastic jar (saving the original container for the information on the label). I figure I can do something similar with this stuff.

So, you're saying that I may find sulfur or copper to be advantageous for this purpose, it's hard to know, so I guess I could just keep both. If stored well enough they should keep indefinitely, I'd think.

 

[Muse]

Summer - Pee + water, in the peak of veg season I also add miracle gro.

I also do compost.

I do similar, but have stopped using chemical fertilizers on my vegetables, I used to rely very heavily on them. I heard that it's ultimately bad for the soil. My compost pile yields huge amounts that I almost always work in before planting. In addition to the urine, I sprinkle on wood ashes from my fireplace for the potash.

I still have some miracle gro around that I use on rare occasions for this and that. I also have a LOT of chemical fertilizer left over. I sprinkle it around my yard in small amounts occasionally where I deem it is needed by otherwise starved plants.

 

[cabri]

Get year old chicken or horse manure.

 

[turtile]

Air tight should work. Maybe add some rice/silica gel. The copper is a powder. 'DF' on the label means dry flowable.