Fan Noise
- Thread starter Eureka
- Start date
JEDIYoda
Lifer
- Jul 13, 2005
- 33,986
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Those are all issues that you have to deal with by tirla and error!!
There is no set in stone answer!!
Personally what works best in my system is to have one exhaust fan and all the rest intake!
As far a db.....
That again is something that has been discussed over and over again in various threads on these forums.
Personally I use Coolermaster and Zalman fans!
I find both to be very silent even at max rpm!!
I stay away from Antec fans as well as vantec fans and most generic fans I find to be on the noisy side!
Most of us who have alot of fans we also have a fan controller...be it a multi fan controller or a single fan controller that way when your not gaming or doing anything that requires your fans to be on full you can throttle them down to get a quiter PC!!
There is no set in stone answer!!
Personally what works best in my system is to have one exhaust fan and all the rest intake!
As far a db.....
That again is something that has been discussed over and over again in various threads on these forums.
Personally I use Coolermaster and Zalman fans!
I find both to be very silent even at max rpm!!
I stay away from Antec fans as well as vantec fans and most generic fans I find to be on the noisy side!
Most of us who have alot of fans we also have a fan controller...be it a multi fan controller or a single fan controller that way when your not gaming or doing anything that requires your fans to be on full you can throttle them down to get a quiter PC!!
Others may dispute it but i will go with a slight positive case pressure. I have a window for the build i'm doing now(money puts the finish date a month away) and i will use incense, three sticks of the smelly stuff to check air flow. Put them at the intake and have a look at what the air is doing. Warn you cohabatant first!
This case will have one 120X38 intake,92x25 exhaust and a 80mm top mounted but directed right at the intake of the PSU. This will encourage the PSU to vent and not ramp it's fan up as quick(i hope). 120 is a Pan G series, the 92&80 are medium speed. All on a Sunbeam Buss.
A scoop will be fabricated to dirct 60% of the 120's output to the HSF area.
If you don't have a window....Use SaranWrap to cover the left side of the case, streatch
it tight. You may have to tape it down and be sure not to cover anything important to this test. Like the vent holes near the PCI slots.
Galvanized
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
- 16,631
- 2,026
- 126
Galvanized -- your projects are well-planned. Don't know if I have the patience . . .
Positive pressure is especially great if, as Galvanized suggests, you can seal or vent anything in the case. You can more effectively focus air on key components and duct away the heat.
Sometimes the pressure can be so great that smaller intake fans that are low-volted seem to be cancelled out. These areas could probably work with a reversal of fan direction -- flipping the fan over. If the fan has minimal impact on case pressure anyway, it becomes a logical choice for conversion to exhaust purposes.
Figure that the higher the air-pressure maintained inside the case, the more air will eventually force its way out through openings you would like to cool further but lack the means -- as with a low-rpm PSU fan controlled by a PSU temperature sensor. This would mean greater noise and rpm at the intake side, but provide advantages for lower rpm and noise at the exhaust side. One would like to turn this situation around, so we strive for large 120mm in the front, and while a 120mm in the rear would be ideal, it's a better place to locate pairs of smaller, noisier fans. But the air pressure, with no other place to go, is going to go out through those noisier rear fans, anyway. That would mean you could probably reduce the rpm of those fans through use of a controller or software-driven PWM tool like SpeedFan.
Positive pressure is especially great if, as Galvanized suggests, you can seal or vent anything in the case. You can more effectively focus air on key components and duct away the heat.
Sometimes the pressure can be so great that smaller intake fans that are low-volted seem to be cancelled out. These areas could probably work with a reversal of fan direction -- flipping the fan over. If the fan has minimal impact on case pressure anyway, it becomes a logical choice for conversion to exhaust purposes.
Figure that the higher the air-pressure maintained inside the case, the more air will eventually force its way out through openings you would like to cool further but lack the means -- as with a low-rpm PSU fan controlled by a PSU temperature sensor. This would mean greater noise and rpm at the intake side, but provide advantages for lower rpm and noise at the exhaust side. One would like to turn this situation around, so we strive for large 120mm in the front, and while a 120mm in the rear would be ideal, it's a better place to locate pairs of smaller, noisier fans. But the air pressure, with no other place to go, is going to go out through those noisier rear fans, anyway. That would mean you could probably reduce the rpm of those fans through use of a controller or software-driven PWM tool like SpeedFan.
Patience my a$$, it's because the cash flow to play is tight. In order to maintain a socially
acceptable level of sanity I have choosen to pick-the-nit :-D Besides the research is fun and
it does afford time to fabricate stuff i never would have. Right or wrong i will share my findings. Such as, the K&N foam that i have been using is really a bit too restrictive and the next time Home Depote is visited a home AC filter will be bought to be cut up.
At heatsink-guide.com they offer a guide to make your own temperature controls. Seems EZ and i just might buy the parts to play with it. Never soldered on a PCB before and it will be a good little project to see how i do and learn how to do it well.
That's for you BonzaiDuck and to a degree you my relate.
cevilgenius, i would think 20 to 30% more flow on the intake side. If some type of filtering medium is used dust will be kept out of the opticals and floopy or whatever else is mounted in the open bays. If you are going to buy fans, i would go at least medium speed and regulate them with a fan buss, Vantec or Sunbeam. Your call. That way you can quiet them down for late night surfing or speed them up for gaming during a hot day.
If you decide to use a fan buss do a little research first.
Galvanized
acceptable level of sanity I have choosen to pick-the-nit :-D Besides the research is fun and
it does afford time to fabricate stuff i never would have. Right or wrong i will share my findings. Such as, the K&N foam that i have been using is really a bit too restrictive and the next time Home Depote is visited a home AC filter will be bought to be cut up.
At heatsink-guide.com they offer a guide to make your own temperature controls. Seems EZ and i just might buy the parts to play with it. Never soldered on a PCB before and it will be a good little project to see how i do and learn how to do it well.
That's for you BonzaiDuck and to a degree you my relate.
cevilgenius, i would think 20 to 30% more flow on the intake side. If some type of filtering medium is used dust will be kept out of the opticals and floopy or whatever else is mounted in the open bays. If you are going to buy fans, i would go at least medium speed and regulate them with a fan buss, Vantec or Sunbeam. Your call. That way you can quiet them down for late night surfing or speed them up for gaming during a hot day.
If you decide to use a fan buss do a little research first.
Galvanized
You need to use more explanation marks!
You don't emphasize your sentences enough!
That is all!
!
HardWarrior
Diamond Member
- Jan 26, 2004
- 4,400
- 23
- 81
I think FrozenCPU offers ballpark estimates of dB level for the fans they sell. Others may as well, I'm not sure.
Grammer Police, some of us(me included)need them because we are International after all.
The world reads us. Just as we read other (mostly)English speaking sites that are far removed from the USA,ie, Canada,UK,AU,NZ and RSA.
OP, I forgot to tell you to check out the listening room at sidewindercomputers.com, there you will find some fans on MP3 file for a sound test of some offering.
Galvanized
I'm not positive but you can look it up.
IIRC, every 10db the sound pressure doubles. There is an A and B scale(i think).
SilentPCreview.com has a good chart and full explaination. Go there.
Galvanized
IIRC, every 10db the sound pressure doubles. There is an A and B scale(i think).
SilentPCreview.com has a good chart and full explaination. Go there.
Galvanized
HardWarrior
Diamond Member
- Jan 26, 2004
- 4,400
- 23
- 81
"sound pressure
n.
The varying difference, at a fixed point in a given medium, between the pressure caused by a sound wave and either atmospheric pressure or the average pressure of the medium."
Interesting.
pretty much every 3 db, the sound doubles. having 2 fans at 20db will sound like one fan at 23db.
HW it is believed whales could communicate from the Equater to either Pole before the days of heavy shipping.
The speed of sound deminishes with altitude. The sound effects in outerspace movies and games is kind of funny because there is little or no medium in Galactic space.
The flow rates of intake ports on gasoline engines shuts down at about 600fps because the reflected sound wave in the port reaches 1100fps(the speed of sound at sea level) and it forms a barrier to the flow of air. F-1 cars flow at about 525fps.
I find this kind of thing interesting, of little use but intersting.
Galvanized
The speed of sound deminishes with altitude. The sound effects in outerspace movies and games is kind of funny because there is little or no medium in Galactic space.
The flow rates of intake ports on gasoline engines shuts down at about 600fps because the reflected sound wave in the port reaches 1100fps(the speed of sound at sea level) and it forms a barrier to the flow of air. F-1 cars flow at about 525fps.
I find this kind of thing interesting, of little use but intersting.
Galvanized
According to spcr's tutorial it doubles every 10dB. The differance between 30dB and 50dB
is four times the sound pressure. Between 30 and 40 double.
Galvanized
HardWarrior
Diamond Member
- Jan 26, 2004
- 4,400
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It's very interesting. Wanting to know the "hows and whys" is one of the more pleasing aspects of human nature. BTW, I find cetaceans fascinating, even more so than insects.
Nothing!
I was just having fun with you!
Sorry!
I just always notice that you love explanation marks!
Now, to contribute to the thread: I messed around throughout the years with fan placement and positioning, and it definetely makes a difference to have positive pressure in the case. My old computer had negative pressure, and I had dust in every crack and crevice in my case - on the harddrives and everything. I had dust covers over my intake fans, but obviously it didn't make a difference because I had too many fans sucking out.
HardWarrior
Diamond Member
- Jan 26, 2004
- 4,400
- 23
- 81
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