Fan Controller help.

[Belmont]

So I have been building a new system and needed some decent fans so I bought two Delta PFB1212UHEs for my double rad.

I got a Lamptron FC3..which can only supply 30W per channel, but I have read that some people have lower watt fan controllers that just cant run them at max RPM. First is my question based on my current fan controller - why is it that when I plug in the 3-pin to the fan controller the fan starts up like normal even with the power off on the controller.

Now for my other question - where can I get a multi channel controller (rheostats) that can handle these?

 

[WoodButcher]

Only thirty watts????

lol, 30 is more than most all fan controls and will run enough fans to make you think about bolting your case to the floor. It would manage my rig nicely and I have 17 or 18 fans.
This guy , right? That is a rheostat control. You must have something wrong or the unit is broken. 4 pin molex from the PSU to control and the fan to the control, nothing else, no splitters to the mobo or any thing else?

 

[zagood]

The Delta PFB1212UHE sucks like 60W. Those things are beasts. I don't know about why they would still start even though the knobs are turned off...if they're just all the way down, that's still 5W, so make sure they click.

The lamptron site has a few baybuses that would work fine, but as far as linear control I have nothing off the top of my head.

 

[WoodButcher]

24 watts each according to the specs on newegg. Don't know if those knobs have a "tactile click" for off or not.

 

[mv2devnull]

24 watts each according to the specs on newegg.

Other sources state 5500 RPM, 252 CFM, 66 dBA, 48 W for those "UHE" beasts.

 

[Belmont]

Well the controller has an audible click off and feels well made - even the LED adjusts brightness with the position of the knob. I tried different molex connectors on the PSU and all resulted in the fan turning on even if the controller was off, on, or then 3-pin wasn't even connected. Also could my 3-pin connector from the fan be made wrong? it is obviously 1 wire running into a female 3-pin, which part of the male 3-pin should it connect with?

This is the only thing stopping me from putting all my liquid cooling on my computer right now >_< about to say fuck fans on the rad for now and just not OC.

 

[Belmont]

Other sources state 5500 RPM, 252 CFM, 66 dBA, 48 W for those "UHE" beasts.

I think he was referring to the Lamptron FC3. But yes I do have a huge grin on my face when I turn on these fans - speaking of which i'm gonna go do that right now.

I should also mention each fan says 4.8 Amps

 

[WoodButcher]

4.8 x 12 = 57.6w, zagood wins the booby prize!

"1 wire into a 3 pin"? What other wires are on this fan? a four pin molex maybe???

 

[Belmont]

4.8 x 12 = 57.6w, zagood wins the booby prize!

"1 wire into a 3 pin"? What other wires are on this fan? a four pin molex maybe???

its 1 wire into a 3-pin and 2 wires into a 4-pin molex. I've tried not even connecting the 3-pin and it still turns on with only the 2-pins in a 4-pin molex.

 

[zagood]

There's your problem...to use a fan controller, you ONLY plug in the 3-pin.

Of course, the first time you do that you're going to fry your fan controller with those fans.

 

[Belmont]

There's your problem...to use a fan controller, you ONLY plug in the 3-pin.

Of course, the first time you do that you're going to fry your fan controller with those fans.

So that 1 wire going into the 3-pin is all it takes? lol gonna try this....

didn't work.

 

[zagood]

Oh, looks like the 3-pin connector only has an RPM sensor. You won't be able to use a fan controller with the stock configuration. You could mod all the wires to go into the 3-pin connector, you'll need some solder and probably some new pins.

Or you could sell the ones you have and pick up the 3-wire version (see dropdown list):
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12pfexhisp.html

 

[Zap]

Oh, looks like the 3-pin connector only has an RPM sensor.

That's what it sounds like to me too.

For the pinout FROM the fan (NOT the same as PSU pinout)
black = ground
red = 12v
yellow = RPM sense

For the PSU
black = ground
red = 5v
yellow = 12v

You need the red from the fan to go through the fan controller.

 

[zagood]

lol...don't confuse him! (yellow = blue)

 

[Belmont]

What good is only having an RPM sensor on a 66Db fan... Anyway I am notorious for jury rigging my computer to get it working for builds, but I don't think I am going to try any of the smart ideas that popped into my head this time. Just going to go grab some decent fans and order one of those pin making kits.

Thanks for the help.

 

[WoodButcher]

Is that fan zagood pictured the same wiring as yours? If so you can wire that into the 3 pin yourself. Leave the blue in the 3pin add the red and black with the proper end into that plug. Blue, red, black in that order. If for some reason the polarity is reversed the fan won't run, no smoke and flames, just nothing. Swap the red and black and your good to go. Your controller will manage one on each channel. Here are the female pins for the plug.

 

[Belmont]

Yes mine is wired like that. It sounds pretty easy to get to work...so I will play around with that.

 

[WoodButcher]

Easy for those with good eyesight and nimble fingers! I crimp those connectors w/ needle-nose before soldering and after just a few my age starts to show...

 

[Belmont]

I couldn't help myself...

Tools used:
1. Hands
2. Knife
3. Scotch tape
4. 3-pin extensions

results:

gotta turn one fan on at a time with a revving motion lol, but it works and I am pleased. (notice the taped in wires connecting to the male part of the extensions - win).

sorry bout phone camera quality =\

also when the stores open tomorrow I am going to grab a tube of thermal paste and start converting my computer to water cooling, will post pictures - using an extremely small case (HAF 922). only doing mobo and cpu first then getting another GFX card then making second loop.

 

[rgallant]

-if it was my system I would trash the 50 watt fans and put more rad and normal fans.

 

[Belmont]

-if it was my system I would trash the 50 watt fans and put more rad and normal fans.

This is only the CPU/Mobo loop. Not to mention I am using a high flow 1/2" line setup. For my VGA loop I will be using a triple rad with full nickel plated WBs.

got thermal paste. Turning off comp and starting the transformation.

 

[WoodButcher]

What CPU and mobo? what rad is that exactly? are you overclocking?

 

[Belmont]

done.

got a 980X w/ an EVGA E760. The rad is a Black Ice GT X-Flow, have a heatkiller cpu WB, and EK full mobo WB. also if you want to know my ram is 6-6-6-20 dom GT

picture came out a bit blurry, but as you can see the shrouded rad with a push configuration would have went well below the DIMMS/CPU WB inlet. So I shrouded the top of my case, put gaskets, and are having them pull - it is working quite well.

Also the half inch tubing is really annoying in such a small case or jumping from CPU WB to mobo WB - will get connectors for that later just wanted it up and running.

Thought that was without OC, turns out I had it OCd to 4ghz but it was only with the multiplier...messing with OC right now.

 

[WoodButcher]

Nice job, that rad will benefit from the high speed fans but you'll find after awhile listening to those turbines you'll want more quiet. GTs will get your OC and maintain your hearing. Temperature with a good loop as you have setup is rarely the limitation for overclocking, diminishing returns so to speak.