Failed emissions due to reset check engine light

[sze5003]

My 2011 lancer failed the emissions due to resetting of the check engine light. Since last year I've been getting a p1045 code which says slow o2 response bank 1 sensor 3. It came on during last year's inspection and they passed me since it came on right after they finished the inspection. This light would come on and off after various driving. So the mechanic said it wasn't anything big to worry about but I'd have to get it reset to pass this year.

How long is the drive cycle before I can go back and they can test emissions? If they won't test it with the engine light on then I guess I'll have to fork over the $400+ for replacing that stupid sensor.

I haven't had bad gas mileage or anything. Do I have to monitor it with my obd2 tool until it says emissions ready and go back for testing?

 

[BUTCH1]

Why not just replace it? O2 sensors are mounted in the exhaust stream and are usually not a problem to swap out. Kinda odd in that your vehicle is rather young for a worn-out O2 sensor but it might have been one that was not of correct OEM quality that got by QC.

 

[tortillasoup]

"in that your vehicle is rather young for a worn-out O2 sensor but it might have been one that was not of correct OEM quality that got by QC."

that or he is burning a noticeable amount of oil and the o2 sensor is getting contaminated. As for how long OP has to drive, every car is different about its drive cycles and having an OBD-II reader like a scangauge tell you that sort of thing is IMO a godsend. I was amazed when I saw that the Torque app with OBD-II bluetooth reader did not have such capability.

 

[sze5003]

Well this light came on a while ago around 65k miles. I've had my car maintained and worked on and now I have 80k miles on it. No leaks, or anything that I've been told about. The light would come on and go off sporadically. Some days I would turn it on and no Service engine light, other times, it would show up then go away.

The mechanic I went to mentioned since its sporadic it shouldn't be a big deal. That sensor monitors the fuel flow through the Cat, in my car known as a lambda sensor.

Looking up parts on Rock Auto I am guessing it will be part DENSO 2344386, downstream O2 sensor. If I look under the car I can see it on the side of the cat, by the passenger driver side.

But I am not sure exactly if that is the right one. I know when I asked a mechanic near my work about it he quoted me the original part which costs $333 plus labor so a total of about $500.

If that is the correct part, I can order it and have a friend place it for me.

But my inspection is up this month so I was wondering if there was a way to monitor the drive cycle with my OBD2 and a phone app, that way as soon as it states ready I can go have them retest the emissions. As long as that engine light does not come on while they are testing, like they did last year, I should pass. Then I can take care of the sensor finally.

 

[tortillasoup]

are you sure you had this code?, P1045???

http://www.obd-data.com/p1045.html

That says a completely different issue! Nothing to do with oxygen sensor!

 

[sze5003]

are you sure you had this code?, P1045???

http://www.obd-data.com/p1045.html

That says a completely different issue! Nothing to do with oxygen sensor!

Oops sorry its P0145 I mixed up the numbers.

 

[heymrdj]

Please don't be cheap on emissions equipment. It's part of the responsibility of owning a car.

 

[BUTCH1]

Please don't be cheap on emissions equipment. It's part of the responsibility of owning a car.

Huh?, OP is not even sure of whats causing the problem and if he eventually replaces an O2 sensor I don't think a less expensive than OEM replacement will do a single thing to turn is vehicle into a (gasp!) smog-machine. I replaced my plugs with ones I bought at Autozone, as long as they meet OEM specs there will be no difference in power, economy, or emissions.

 

[BUTCH1]

"in that your vehicle is rather young for a worn-out O2 sensor but it might have been one that was not of correct OEM quality that got by QC."

that or he is burning a noticeable amount of oil and the o2 sensor is getting contaminated. As for how long OP has to drive, every car is different about its drive cycles and having an OBD-II reader like a scangauge tell you that sort of thing is IMO a godsend. I was amazed when I saw that the Torque app with OBD-II bluetooth reader did not have such capability.

Yea, frankly I'm surprised about that as well but there may be limitations of the ELM327 chip itself rather than the software, I'm not sure.

 

[heymrdj]

Huh?, OP is not even sure of whats causing the problem and if he eventually replaces an O2 sensor I don't think a less expensive than OEM replacement will do a single thing to turn is vehicle into a (gasp!) smog-machine. I replaced my plugs with ones I bought at Autozone, as long as they meet OEM specs there will be no difference in power, economy, or emissions.

It's not about the OEM thing. It's the fact he's been trying to skip getting it repaired. I get tired of reading "how can I fool my car into thinking it's not broken."

 

[sze5003]

It's not about the OEM thing. It's the fact he's been trying to skip getting it repaired. I get tired of reading "how can I fool my car into thinking it's not broken."

I'm not trying to skip it getting repaired. I've had a lot of unexpected bills come up lately. After a few shops quoted me $400+ to get the sensor replaced and then I find out that the rear o2 sensor just monitors the cat, I've been told there isn't a big deal to get it replaced right away.

I've called a friend that works at a dealership and does work on the side. He told me he is seeing the sensor cost $289. I've asked him if the one on rock auto would suffice which I can get from amazon for $158. He isn't sure and said he will check.

If I can verify the part I need then I'd rather pay someone to help me install it than have to pay shop prices. Every place I've called, about 4 so far have told me its a special sensor so its not as easy as picking any o2 sensor. Even the auto zone people couldn't tell me which one it is.

They showed me their computer screen and said well it can be either one of these.

 

[styrafoam]

" I was amazed when I saw that the Torque app with OBD-II bluetooth reader did not have such capability.

It does. Add the "current drive cycle status" widget to the display.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPMwr2730JA

 

[sze5003]

Just checked my obd tool and it now states emissions are ready and the check engine light has not come back yet. I guess I had to drive it for a bit but since I have 30 days hopefully I can get it fixed and replace that sensor. I don't know the next time I go back if the light will be tripped again or not by the time I make it to the shop so best not to chance it.

 

[bruceb]

If it is the O2 sensor after the cat, on your car it is a heated sensor, so it costs more. You can tell be seeing if it has multiple wires (2 or 3 usually) .. Also when you check rockauto, you need to specify which engine .. that car had a 2.0 normally aspirated, a 2.0 turbo, and a 2.4 DOHC normally aspirated. And then you have to consider transmission type and also if it is a California emissions spec part you need. Then you can select the correct one.

 

[BUTCH1]

It's not about the OEM thing. It's the fact he's been trying to skip getting it repaired. I get tired of reading "how can I fool my car into thinking it's not broken."

IMO a "slow" O2 sensor is not going to significantly affect emissions and even in "limp" mode a modern car will pollute less than an average lawnmower. Now if someone is ripping out cat's that's a totally different situation and I would consider him an ass for doing it.

 

[sze5003]

If it is the O2 sensor after the cat, on your car it is a heated sensor, so it costs more. You can tell be seeing if it has multiple wires (2 or 3 usually) .. Also when you check rockauto, you need to specify which engine .. that car had a 2.0 normally aspirated, a 2.0 turbo, and a 2.4 DOHC normally aspirated. And then you have to consider transmission type and also if it is a California emissions spec part you need. Then you can select the correct one.

Its a 2.4L manual transmission. My car adopted the Cali inspection doctrine and my cat seems to be in the front of the car, under the driver side passenger area. I can see a sensor sticking out from the side of the cat, that might be the bank 1 sensor 3 location. Although most people say that location is usually a rear sensor.

 

[bruceb]

Here is a link to all the O2 sensors for that engine.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/emailpagetofriend.php?ni=420

Upstream sensors are in the exhaust manifolds. Downstream is after the converter.
And depending on which one you need, it can be as much as $265 even from rockauto for the part alone.

 

[sze5003]

Thanks. That sounds about right. Talked to my friend's buddy and he mentioned a price he saw was about $289. He works at a dealership across the street from a mistubishi dealer and also does work on the side.

If he can verify where the sensor is and the equivalent aftermarket part that could be compatible I'll order it. As of now, people on the evo m boards aren't too sure either since theirs have not failed yet.

 

[yhelothar]

I've driven 500 miles and didn't complete the drive cycle on my 2004 Miata.
I checked youtube for some advice and I passed it in 10 minutes.
Here's what I did:

1. Drive on the freeway at 55mph for 5 minutes. Take the next exit or pull over in the emergency lane. Use your E-Brake to stop, do not press your brakes.

2. Stop and go. Maintain about 35mph on the streets. Drive normally for approximately 10 minutes and you should pass the remaining checks.

 

[sze5003]

I've driven 500 miles and didn't complete the drive cycle on my 2004 Miata.
I checked youtube for some advice and I passed it in 10 minutes.
Here's what I did:

1. Drive on the freeway at 55mph for 5 minutes. Take the next exit or pull over in the emergency lane. Use your E-Brake to stop, do not press your brakes.

2. Stop and go. Maintain about 35mph on the streets. Drive normally for approximately 10 minutes and you should pass the remaining checks.

Seriously use the e-brake on the highway at 55mph? I've already driven in stop and go traffic today as well as some high speeds.

My obd 2 app, Carista, is telling me emissions is ready, and so is my scan master app.

 

[DaTT]

If it's the one after the cat, have you tried just having it turned off? My mustang throws an o2 code after the cats meaning they aren't heating up fast enough. All it shows on the report is "not ready" and I get a pass. Laws vary I guess

 

[sze5003]

If it's the one after the cat, have you tried just having it turned off? My mustang throws an o2 code after the cats meaning they aren't heating up fast enough. All it shows on the report is "not ready" and I get a pass. Laws vary I guess

I think its the one on the side of the front cat.

My report said obd 2 emissions not ready so they failed it. I guess it differs where you are. I don't get why in PA we have to have Cali emissions on some vehicles.

 

[yhelothar]

Seriously use the e-brake on the highway at 55mph? I've already driven in stop and go traffic today as well as some high speeds.

My obd 2 app, Carista, is telling me emissions is ready, and so is my scan master app.

Yeah, do it in the emergency lane though, and don't pull it so hard that you lock the wheels, you can lose control that way.

I used my Bluetooth OBDII scan with Torque and the evaporative test clears right after the car comes to a complete stop.
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

Of course if you pass without needing to do 55mph on the freeway, all the better. It didn't work for me after 500 miles though.
[href^="http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/external-search?"] {display:none !important;}

 

[Vdubchaos]

Seems to be the new thing now. I have a feeling lot of people were reseting their CEL right before emissions.

You will have to drive 100 miles after reseting your CEL.

It's BS, in our state, they care about emissions.....while there is no safety inspection. Go figure.

 

[sze5003]

Yeah, do it in the emergency lane though, and don't pull it so hard that you lock the wheels, you can lose control that way.

I used my Bluetooth OBDII scan with Torque and the evaporative test clears right after the car comes to a complete stop.
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

Of course if you pass without needing to do 55mph on the freeway, all the better. It didn't work for me after 500 miles though.
[href^="http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/external-search?"] {display:none !important;}

I reset my computer this morning and drove 35 miles to work today. All inputs except evaporative are completed and the light didn't come on yet. I think I should be fine without the evaporative indicator. That's usually checking the gas cap here in pa.

Edit: seems the readiness monitors reset if the ignition is turned off. After driving again they all become ready except the evaporative one.