external or internal watercooling

[Lu]

Hey guys, i am a first timer to watercooling, looking to cool 1x AMD 64 2x 6800GT, and the A8N chipset, i was originally looking at the Exos Al, ($179) plus 2x koolance VID-NV2 (2x$80), and the koolance CPU and chipset cooler ($80), total add up to $419,
most people seem to suggest that the 1/4" tubing is too small, i am not quite sure about the difference.
Exos 2 ($300), will this perform better than the Exos Al??
alot of people here seem to suggest that DIY is the way to go, but will i be able to cool 2x VGA, and 1x CPU, 1x chipset at the same time? i am really not sure how i can find the 2x120mm radiator, so, what do you guys think? tubing size and power.
thanks

 

[acivick]

The EXOS kits are good if you don't want to do a lot of the work of putting a DIY system together or if you're not comfortable doing it. The EXOS 2 has a bit more cooling potential than the EXOS Al, but it also comes with a price premium. Keep in mind a DIY system sometimes provides better performance at a lower price, kind of like building your own PC as opposed to buying a Dell.

As far as tubing is concerned, people will tell you different things. Koolance took the approach that slower moving water will have more time to transfer heat, so that actual volume of flow did not need to be high.

The EXOS Al should fit your bill in my opinion. The price premium on its successor doesn't warrent getting it, IMO. I'd also recommend not worrying about the chipset cooler if your chipset is passively cooled. I regret putting it on my mobo as it's probably not much better than what was on it and it adds more heat to the coolant loop.

 

[tomimperial]

it all depends how big is you case is but make sure internal water cooling might create a risk of leaking.

 

[H20Cool]

Koolance took the approach that slower moving water will have more time to transfer heat, so that actual volume of flow did not need to be high.

This is a false notion. The following is a quote from an Overclockers.com article called, "Water cooling myths exposed".

Water Cooling myths exposed

Myth: Water must slow down to fully absorb heat.

Reality: In a closed loop, a given water molecule actually spends the same amount of time in a radiator (or water block), no matter how fast it is moving, as long as the water is indeed moving.

If this is a difficult concept to understand, think about a race car on a track. If the track is one mile (5280 ft) long and the car is driving at 60 mph, the car will spend about one second in a 100 ft stretch. Think of the 100 ft stretch as the radiator.

If the speed is doubled, the car only spends ½ a second in the 100 ft section, but it passes through that same section twice a minute, so it spends a total of one second in the 100 ft section per minute.

it all depends how big is you case is but make sure internal water cooling might create a risk of leaking.

A large case definitely makes installing water cooling gear much easier, but it can, and has been done in mid-towers. Also, if you properly leak test your system before actually powering up the machine, and have established that there are absolutely no leaks, then it's a safe bet that you'll have a leak free system from that point on. Leaks usually don't just spring up because water cooling systems are under very little pressure.

 

[acivick]

Originally posted by: H20Cool

Koolance took the approach that slower moving water will have more time to transfer heat, so that actual volume of flow did not need to be high.

This is a false notion. The following is a quote from an Overclockers.com article called, "Water cooling myths exposed".

Thanks for correcting me, I like to learn something new.

Anyway, on further reading, the evidence seems to indicate that the size of tubing used in a system isn't as important as having the tubing size and waterblock intake size be the same. However, it's hard to find good information that directly compares the same waterblock (i.e. Koolance 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") side by side in similar systems where the only change is the size of tubing and nozzles.

Anyway, after owning a Koolance system, I can definitely recommend one if you don't want to create your own. If you do want to go DIY, there are a number of guides online that should get you started.

 

[Lu]

Is it a good idea to use all koolance coolers if i get the Exos AL, hence, all 1/4" size, also
i need to replace the A8N chipset face, this little fan is running at 8000+ RPM, the temp for the chipset is around 80C, so, it will add to the loop, with 2x 6800GT running at 80C under load, i am worried about the Exos Al not be able to handle it. i dont know, let me know.
P.S , im deciding if i should get a Lian Li V1000, or Tt V8000, or wait for Antec P180?
if i go with Exos

 

[Lu]

hmmm, i also read some reviews saying that the XP-120, XP-90 ot the Tt bettle has better temp than Water cooling? anybody ??

thanks

 

[boyRacer]

I wouldn't get that Exos unless it were $100 on clearance.

I have two of their cases and extremely happy with them, but I would have never purchased them for full price.

 

[acivick]

I would recommend using coolers that fit the size of everything else in the system. Constantly changing sizes can negatively affect cooling performance.

The XP-90 and 120 are nice, but are massive and can be loud if coupled with a substandard fan. If you're going to go that route, you'll still need to get aftermarket coolers for your GPUs if noise is a factor.

Finally, you can get an idea of performance HERE. Keep in mind that's a 754 3000+ and you'd likely get even better performance with a 939 Winnie. Comparing it to some of the other kits HERE, you can see that performance is generally similar, when you take into account the difference in ambient temps (81 vs 73), so I don't think you can go wrong with it.

 

[cyto]

Let us know how the Koolance NV2 SLI setup works for you with temps, fittings, etc.

 

[11427]

Originally posted by: H20Cool

Koolance took the approach that slower moving water will have more time to transfer heat, so that actual volume of flow did not need to be high.

This is a false notion. The following is a quote from an Overclockers.com article called, "Water cooling myths exposed".

Myth: Water must slow down to fully absorb heat.

Reality: In a closed loop, a given water molecule actually spends the same amount of time in a radiator (or water block), no matter how fast it is moving, as long as the water is indeed moving.

Here is some food for thought from a old heat transfer engineer friend of mine. this is about cars but should apply to computer water cooling as well.

"The coefficient of heat
transfer (btu/hr/sq.ft./degF) is very low during low flow (laminar). Once
flow increases to turbulant, the rate jumps and goes to a steadily
increasing curve until well past the point of erosive flow. Therefore, the
more flow the better. HOWEVER, if that flow brings the temp difference
between the two fluids ( in this case air and water/glycol) in a closed
loop system to approach a temp. cross (the exiting air to be as hot as the
incoming coolant) the coefficient drops dramatically. So, ya see, there is
a sweet spot. I think thats what all the racers are looking for. You must
have a temp differential for heat to transfer. "

just something to chew on.