Siddhartha
Lifer
Was your brother hurt in the crash of your first kart?
Originally posted by: Evadman
#1. it is a 6 cyl. #2. it is air cooled. #3. it is a 6 cyl #4. it is 1048 cc's #5. a 6 cyl is just plain cooler.
Originally posted by: Evadman
Ordered my Hydralic pipe bender and dies 🙂
Originally posted by: LAUST
:Q that is all I have to say about that
<--- still waiting for the Rotax to get more popular here in Denver
Originally posted by: crab
Originally posted by: LAUST
:Q that is all I have to say about that
<--- still waiting for the Rotax to get more popular here in Denver
I got a nice rotax in my garage for exactly this purpose.
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: crab
Originally posted by: LAUST
:Q that is all I have to say about that
<--- still waiting for the Rotax to get more popular here in Denver
I got a nice rotax in my garage for exactly this purpose.
Too bad they're so fscking expensive.
Originally posted by: Dr Smooth
Will engine cooling will be a problem?
I know. I really want to do front brakes as well. I am thinking of ways to do this. I may end up using a front spindle from the smallest car I can find, and using the disks that come with it. But I am not sure. I plan on the bike being all hydralic, so it will be fun. I want the front to be fully independant, so a beam axle with a disk on it is out.Originally posted by: Scootin159
#1) If you plan on going 160+ in this thing (don't think it'll make it that high IMHO, Maybe 140ish, but whatever), put some brakes in the front. At low speeds the rear brakes will do just fine in stopping the car....but have you ever even tried to stop a bicycle in grass from like 20mph with just the rear brakes? Especially when you combine your heavy rear suspension (unsprung motor) and all unstableness back there, it could get ugly quick. I'm not sure of the easiest way to implement them...but you might want to explore this.
Remember, shifter carts hit 120+ speeds. And all without a suspension. I am adding the suspension because I KNOW I will be using it on dirt/grass at some time or another. The problem is this adds unwanted suspension height, which means the COG is higher, which means I have to make it wider and longer. I plan on fitting it in a truck bed so I want to keep it under 96" long, and 54" wide from wheel to wheel. That is also the reason the engine is unspring, so the axle can be as close as possable, and get the most wheel travel. But I have ideas for a fully independant rear suspension as well. Don't get me started 🙂#2) Having the engine unsprung will really help make this much easier to build, but that will add a lot of unsprung weight. The unsprung weight makes more for the shocks/springs to settle down after each bump, so expect a lot of wheel hop in the rear. Shouldn't really be a problem, until you get to real high speeds.
Whatever you do this looks like a real fun project. Keep us updated with lots of pics 🙂. Nice to see you got a good saftey harness for it too!
By Spring. If I get it close enough to a drivavble state, expect snow pictures. I already built a 60% complete mockup using conduit from Home Depot (which I returned after the mockup) so I could figure out how much tubing I need. (80' of .093 and 8' of .120 all 1 1/2" DOM tubing. The .120 is for the roll bar hoop over my head.) I want to be able to land upside down from a minimum of 10' up with no damage to my head. It will take some engineering to get the cage to give enough so energy is absorbed, but not so much that I get a bar in the head.Originally posted by: WinstonSmith
So when will this thing be up and running?
I plan on either ducting air from in front of me to the engine, or using a electric radiator fan right behind my seat blowing on the engine.Originally posted by: Dr Smooth
Will engine cooling will be a problem?