Discussion Equipment opinions on redoing home networking

[ToBYourself]

(Original post seems to be missing which is funny because I successfully edited it– it’s not listed in my profile)

**** Updated with results in post #14 ****

Looking for equipment opinions for home networking from you knowledgeable and experienced people. I’ve worked with home networking and network cabling for many years, but have not dabbled in it for the last 15+ years (used ISP cable modems and simple Linksys/Netgear wifi routers).

Current
=======
My current provider is Comcast – 150 Mbps with phone (phone line required for work – I work from home).

My current situation: I’ve recently moved into the house and am using the Comcast-supplied cable modem (it’s listed as an XFinity XB3 for what it’s worth) with both 2.5ghz and 5ghz networks (ac). I have enough wifi coverage where I need it but not where I want it. I have almost no coverage around my outside deck and around my garage, and it becomes non-existent near the extreme edges of my house. As wifi devices, I have 3 phones, 4 Roku’s, 4 Chromecast Audios, 3 reader tablets (2 Kindle 1 Nook), and 2 laptops. I plan on adding up to 3 more Chromecast devices for audio, but two of those will be in areas not reachable via my current wifi. I have one desktop connected to Ethernet directly to the cable modem that is also my Plex server. I do not anticipate outside Plex users other than my wife and I travelling occasionally and accessing it.

I am renting the cable modem from Comcast, and I will continue to do that until I finalize my networking and have it all working as I desire. My current networking seems to be adequate for my existing devices where I have coverage now. My house is in the shape of an “L”, with the long arm having a full basement and first floor, and the short arm having a full basement, first and second floors. Current wifi coverage is concentrated at the inside corner of the “L”.


Desired
=======
My goal is seamless wifi stability wherever I have coverage. I don’t plan on having super high speed internet – my current download/upload speed (150/10 or 15) is more than adequate for my needs.

I’m going to relocate my cable modem and run some Ethernet wiring for an additional 5 drops (2 for the laptops/desktop in the dual office, 1 drop for a centralized cell signal booster, and 2 drops for access points using POE). My plan is to locate a wifi router near the end of the long arm of the “L” on the basement ceiling. That’s where the utilities and cable come into the house and that’s the part of the house with full basement and first floor. The wifi router will allow more than adequate coverage there. I’d like to place an access point via a POE drop near the outside corner of the “L” where the two legs meet. That will cover the common areas of the house (basement and first floor) along with the outside deck. I’d like to place a second access point via a POE drop near the outside end of the short side of the “L”. This will be either in the basement ceiling or the first floor wall near the ceiling. This will cover the basement, first and second floors, and the garage along with part of the driveway. Additionally, I plan to have a Hauppage TV tuner for OTA TV via Plex located near the router and probably a Pi-Hole. I will probably have an old Core2Duo system running headless and containing the TV tuner and providing NAS storage (either it’s current Win7 installation or a new Win10 installation – I hate that Win10 did reboot by itself). The Plex server will continue to be on my desktop, but I may opt to relocate that to the tuner/NAS box.

I anticipate I will need a router and two access points using POE. I assume that means I will need a POE switch, unless injectors are adequate for the APs (I’ve never worked with injectors and POE). Each AP will have less than 100’ of Ethernet (cat 6e) so I think POE will work. I want to locate the APs where I don’t currently have outlets and I’d prefer not to install outlets since I need to run the a/c 120v wiring in conduit to meet code. I understand that low voltage doesn’t need to be in conduit in my area.

What equipment is suggested? I’ve been looking at the Ubiquiti equipment (suddenly no longer in my Amazon list – now referencing these components and adding another LR or PRO). I’m not sure if I need the pro access points or if I can use the non-pro ones (Lite? LR? still need POE). Pro seems the way to go. Great thread here (thanks @IndColtsFan). What router…go with the USG? Do I need the associated POE switch? Do I need the CloudKey? I’m still researching replacement devices for my rented Xfinity cable modem, but I don’t know how likely that will be for a supported device that also continues my phone line. I don’t have to use the wireless on the cable modem and I’d prefer not to longterm.

Any comments/suggestions on Ubiquiti or other equipment? My goal is to set it up and basically forget it. I don’t anticipate needing a guest network, and I don’t allow IOT devices (other than the Rokus and Chromecasts if they’re considered IOT devices) to connect – no TVs or anything.

I don’t want to go crazy spending money, but stability and set and forget operation are my two main goals.

I’m looking for comments and suggestions…and whether or not I’m even on the correct path.

Thanks in advance!!!!

 

[VirtualLarry]

First of all, it is now Comcast policy, as I understand it, to NOT allow multiple customer devices on accounts. That means, no split cable-modem for internet, with a separate modem for CDV. So that means that you need an integrated modem with voice support for CDV. The cheapest of which, is a CM500V, for around $130 (Walmart.com). From there, you'll need a router of your choice for Wifi (the CM500V is not a "Gateway", and does not have built-in Wifi or routing), and possibly some Mesh or APs.

 

[SamirD]

I read your entire original post and then couldn't find it when replying--quite weird. Probably a database snafu.

Anyways, thank you for the very detailed writeup. To give you a little background, I've worked with Charter's voip service in their cable modems, xfinitiy's services, verizon, and even at&t and currently manage 4 isp accounts that are a mix of business and residential accounts across 2 different states. I've also had to build 'seamless roaming' wifi systems for hotels so I know what you're going for.

That being said, I think you're dead-on on the right track with the ubiquiti stuff. Keep doing your research as I've never touched any of the gear but have read many, many deployments with the exact same goals as yours.

Some things to keep in mind about the ubiquiti cloud management is that you will need it for seamless roaming (from what I've read), but can get their cloud key product or just run it as a vm (maybe on that coreduo?). Once you have it set up I don't believe you mess with it anymore and it 'just works.'

POE is quite simple and while a poe switch will give you the added flexibility of more poe when you need it, for just two, I would just use the poe injectors that come with the access points. POE injectors are dead simple to use and they also 'just work'. I think that if you wanted to go with a poe switch, and depending on the access point models, you may have to go with a Ubiquiti due to a proprietary poe implementation.

One thing I didn't see mentioned that I would seriously consider is to get more devices like the Roku's off wireless. I would use something simple like powerline adapters or moca and that will improve their speed quite a bit (we never even think about waiting on our wired rokus), and it will free up some bandwidth in the air as well. Aside from this little point, I think you've got a solid plan in place.

 

[SamirD]

I forgot to add that it will be next to impossible to get a gateway that handles your phone, so I wouldn't think of changing the xfinity unit. What you can do is turn off the wifi on it and simply use its routing capabilities, letting all the ubiquities handle wifi.

 

[mxnerd]

Don't think Unifi's CloudKey has anything to do with roaming capability

https://www.ui.com/unifi/unifi-cloud-key/

 

[DaaQ]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012X45WH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got the above for the POE capabilties,
I am using my companies cable modem but because I work for them the cost is negligible, plus I need the moca capabilities of it.
They are right in if you really need the EMTA portion of the modem you will need to use the providers modem. I looked previously for a customer for a modem with EMTA built in to purchase and they were not very available.
If you don't want the modem lease fee, contact your provider and inquire on purchasing a modem outright from them. It should be an option. If it's a combo unit make sure its baselined if you use your own router.
My company offers modem for purchase, and they send new modems out for this. They also offer a warranty, it's not great but it's there.
Ask your provider if modem is purchased if they are brand new or used.

 

[SamirD]

Don't think Unifi's CloudKey has anything to do with roaming capability

https://www.ui.com/unifi/unifi-cloud-key/

You don't need the cloud key, but you do need the controller running to have seamless handoff from the various setups I've read about. Cloud key just makes it easy since you just plug it and use it.

 

[ToBYourself]

Thanks to everybody so far! Some really good information and great points.

The Roku devices are sticks and therefore only wireless. Since it’s just me and my spouse, I don’t anticipate normal Roku usage to be more than two at a time, and 90% of the time it’s only one. Our current configuration handles the (within range) wifi seemingly fine. In the new configuration, the Roku’s will probably be on different access points and the AP’s should be using their wired backbone.

According to Xfinity website, I can use either a Netgear CM1150V or an Arris SBV3202 as a cable modem replacement. Both of those have voice and acceptable download speeds for me (the installation issues appear to be related to Xfinity setup authencating it on their system). Both are DOCSIS 3.0. The Netgear has a version available for ~$100 more that is Docsis 3.1 capable of up to 2 gig download and 4x 1 gig Ethernet ports. I don’t anticipate needing the extra download capacity for the foreseeable future – I don’t see myself upgrading beyond 300 mbps for any near-term reason(s). Is DOCSIS 3.1 worth the extra $100?

If I stick with Ubiquiti, should I:

• connect the USG to one of the above cable modems via the WAN1 port;
• connect the Ubiquity 8-port 4 POE gigabit switch to the USG via the LAN1 port;
• connect 3x LR Access Points to the switch via the POE ports (could I use the AC Lites as direct replacements for the LR?); and
• connect the Cloud Key to the LAN2 USG port (should I use the Hybrid Cloud Key?).

Could I use any decent gigabit switch if I use the POE injectors that come with the LR Access Points? I don’t think there’s a reason to specifically use the Ubiquiti switch if I don’t use the POE capability of it.

For the switch, I have 1 port for the USG, 3x ports for the AP’s, 2x ports for the office, 1 port for the C2D TV Tuner/NAS box, and 1 port for the cell signal booster. That’s all 8 ports used (note the 3x AP’s rather than the original 2x AP’s that I listed). I can add other switches as needed, swapping into the port for the C2D system.

AP BACKBONE QUESTION: Looking into the documentation for the access points, I can’t EXPLICITLY tell if their backbone is via the POE wires rather than a wireless backbone. I’m not sure where I read it, but I thought the Ubiquiti access points used a wired backbone if they were connected via Ethernet cables. Am I correct that they will use the wires for the backbone?

Thank you for pointing out the Edge Router. If I use the Edge router, will that be in place of the USG, Cloud Key, and POE Switch? Then I could use a less expensive gigabit switch, such as this D-Link 8 port switch or something similar for enough ports? Are there any downsides to using the Edge router?

Could I use the AmpliFi HD WiFi Router in place of the USG and the Cloud Key? If I can, should I? The Unifi extenders don’t appear to use a wired backbone and I do want a wired backbone – can the Unifi router work with the LR AP’s? That may save some money, but I don’t want to do that at the expense of stability or introducing mesh issues. The AmpliFI Mesh Points don’t use a wired backbone so I’m not interested in using them.

If I need to run a controller (software if not cloud key, correct?), I should be able to run that on either the C2D tuner/NAS box or my desktop. I expect both to be up 24x7…with the C2D more likely since I may have the opportunity to have it Win7.

It seems the more I research with everyone’s help, the more questions I come up with. Isn’t that how it always is? I hope these aren’t inane questions – I’m afraid I’m starting to overthink my potential situation. My original thinking was a wifi router with 2x access points and a gigabit switch….but I want it to be stable and just work and I keep reading horror stories that people have run into.

I think that I can implement the above solution before actually replacing the cable modem – I should be able to disable the wifi on the cable modem (as much as Comcast would let me) to ensure everything is working.

It looks like the potential solutions run anywhere from roughly $350 - $800. That’s a decent workable range for a (hopefully) stable and seamless solution for my needs.

 

[DaaQ]

Thanks to everybody so far! Some really good information and great points.

The Roku devices are sticks and therefore only wireless. Since it’s just me and my spouse, I don’t anticipate normal Roku usage to be more than two at a time, and 90% of the time it’s only one. Our current configuration handles the (within range) wifi seemingly fine. In the new configuration, the Roku’s will probably be on different access points and the AP’s should be using their wired backbone.

According to Xfinity website, I can use either a Netgear CM1150V or an Arris SBV3202 as a cable modem replacement. Both of those have voice and acceptable download speeds for me (the installation issues appear to be related to Xfinity setup authencating it on their system). Both are DOCSIS 3.0. The Netgear has a version available for ~$100 more that is Docsis 3.1 capable of up to 2 gig download and 4x 1 gig Ethernet ports. I don’t anticipate needing the extra download capacity for the foreseeable future – I don’t see myself upgrading beyond 300 mbps for any near-term reason(s). Is DOCSIS 3.1 worth the extra $100?

If I stick with Ubiquiti, should I:

• connect the USG to one of the above cable modems via the WAN1 port;
• connect the Ubiquity 8-port 4 POE gigabit switch to the USG via the LAN1 port;
• connect 3x LR Access Points to the switch via the POE ports (could I use the AC Lites as direct replacements for the LR?); and
• connect the Cloud Key to the LAN2 USG port (should I use the Hybrid Cloud Key?).

Could I use any decent gigabit switch if I use the POE injectors that come with the LR Access Points? I don’t think there’s a reason to specifically use the Ubiquiti switch if I don’t use the POE capability of it.

For the switch, I have 1 port for the USG, 3x ports for the AP’s, 2x ports for the office, 1 port for the C2D TV Tuner/NAS box, and 1 port for the cell signal booster. That’s all 8 ports used (note the 3x AP’s rather than the original 2x AP’s that I listed). I can add other switches as needed, swapping into the port for the C2D system.

AP BACKBONE QUESTION: Looking into the documentation for the access points, I can’t EXPLICITLY tell if their backbone is via the POE wires rather than a wireless backbone. I’m not sure where I read it, but I thought the Ubiquiti access points used a wired backbone if they were connected via Ethernet cables. Am I correct that they will use the wires for the backbone?

Thank you for pointing out the Edge Router. If I use the Edge router, will that be in place of the USG, Cloud Key, and POE Switch? Then I could use a less expensive gigabit switch, such as this D-Link 8 port switch or something similar for enough ports? Are there any downsides to using the Edge router?

Could I use the AmpliFi HD WiFi Router in place of the USG and the Cloud Key? If I can, should I? The Unifi extenders don’t appear to use a wired backbone and I do want a wired backbone – can the Unifi router work with the LR AP’s? That may save some money, but I don’t want to do that at the expense of stability or introducing mesh issues. The AmpliFI Mesh Points don’t use a wired backbone so I’m not interested in using them.

If I need to run a controller (software if not cloud key, correct?), I should be able to run that on either the C2D tuner/NAS box or my desktop. I expect both to be up 24x7…with the C2D more likely since I may have the opportunity to have it Win7.

It seems the more I research with everyone’s help, the more questions I come up with. Isn’t that how it always is? I hope these aren’t inane questions – I’m afraid I’m starting to overthink my potential situation. My original thinking was a wifi router with 2x access points and a gigabit switch….but I want it to be stable and just work and I keep reading horror stories that people have run into.

I think that I can implement the above solution before actually replacing the cable modem – I should be able to disable the wifi on the cable modem (as much as Comcast would let me) to ensure everything is working.

It looks like the potential solutions run anywhere from roughly $350 - $800. That’s a decent workable range for a (hopefully) stable and seamless solution for my needs.

If you use the POE injectors yes, you could use any switch.
AP backbone is wired, with our without the POE
You could use the edge router in place of the mentioned items, they also have routers with more or less ports. I chose mine for my potential setup. Which is 2x desktop lan, 1 POE to AP, then 1 POE to the nano beam antennas to shoot my service over to my In Laws home. I wound up having to plug a moca dongle in as well so if/when I get my PC built I may use one port or throw a switch i have on and use that.

On the controller software, yes what you listed can run it, a cell phone can. I put one in for the liquor store nearby and was able to use it standalone and just set it up via clitent's cell phone.
Yes you can implement everything before replacing modem.

 

[SamirD]

I would upgrade to the rokus to wired ethernet port versions if wiring the rokus is going to be possible. You don't know what you're missing until you've done this. It's that much of a game changer.

Even if Xfinity says you can change the modem, I would avoid it because you need the voice and if something doesn't work, the first thing they can do is point to your equipment. Also, even when you have your down device, your unit will have firmware and configurations identical to their units, right down to all their hidden hotspots. I wouldn't worry at all about docsis 3.1. Unless you're only interested in download, you won't want their 50Mbps upload speeds on a 1G plan when at&t and others will give you a full 1G symmetrical link for less money.

I think you've got the wiring down for the ubiquiti as that's how I would wire it for testing. And you're right about using a plain gigabit switch if you're using the poe injectors.

If you don't need more ports than 8 at the moment, then I think 8 ports will be all you need for now. In the future, your future needs may change and switches only get cheaper, so I wouldn't get more than you currently need.

From other installs that I've read about, yes, the Ubiquities use their wired backbones and not wireless.

As far as the edge router, there's pros and cons of having everything you need in one device. Pros are that it's all in one. Cons are that if something goes wrong with that one device, multiple aspects of your setup are down simultaneously--poe, switch, routing. Also, you can't upgrade any of these aspects piecemeal, so if you want to just upgrade the router, you have to re-think your poe and switch setups too. And routers do commonly need to be upgraded compared to switches and other equipment so keep that in mind.

You can use any router in place of the usg, like the amplifi, but the main idea being staying all ubiquiti is that you can manage them all from the controller seamlessly vs having to log into the router separately. Keep in mind that without the controller software running somewhere, seamless handoff on the access points won't work well (this point seems to always be brought up in all the installs I've read about).

The c2d might be able to run the controller, but I would check the requirements. (Sounds like it should be fine.) If the processing power is too less, it may affect the wifi handoff.

There's never any bad questions! Measure twice, cut once isn't a bad strategy.

You can save a lot of money by finding the access point used or open box. Here's a place I check regularly for open box and have good success with:
https://www.cdw.com/search/?key=ubi...sr=1&sortby=priceasc&maxrecords=72&pcurrent=1

There's actually a lot of good deals in there right now, especially on some of the pricier equipment, like the Pros for the same price as you would normally pay for the LRs. These are corporate open box returns or clearance with a full 45-day return policy and full manufacturer's warranty. I buy from CDW all the time, and mostly from the outlet due to the deals.

 

[DaaQ]

I would upgrade to the rokus to wired ethernet port versions if wiring the rokus is going to be possible. You don't know what you're missing until you've done this. It's that much of a game changer.

Even if Xfinity says you can change the modem, I would avoid it because you need the voice and if something doesn't work, the first thing they can do is point to your equipment. Also, even when you have your down device, your unit will have firmware and configurations identical to their units, right down to all their hidden hotspots. I wouldn't worry at all about docsis 3.1. Unless you're only interested in download, you won't want their 50Mbps upload speeds on a 1G plan when at&t and others will give you a full 1G symmetrical link for less money.

I think you've got the wiring down for the ubiquiti as that's how I would wire it for testing. And you're right about using a plain gigabit switch if you're using the poe injectors.

If you don't need more ports than 8 at the moment, then I think 8 ports will be all you need for now. In the future, your future needs may change and switches only get cheaper, so I wouldn't get more than you currently need.

From other installs that I've read about, yes, the Ubiquities use their wired backbones and not wireless.

As far as the edge router, there's pros and cons of having everything you need in one device. Pros are that it's all in one. Cons are that if something goes wrong with that one device, multiple aspects of your setup are down simultaneously--poe, switch, routing. Also, you can't upgrade any of these aspects piecemeal, so if you want to just upgrade the router, you have to re-think your poe and switch setups too. And routers do commonly need to be upgraded compared to switches and other equipment so keep that in mind.

You can use any router in place of the usg, like the amplifi, but the main idea being staying all ubiquiti is that you can manage them all from the controller seamlessly vs having to log into the router separately. Keep in mind that without the controller software running somewhere, seamless handoff on the access points won't work well (this point seems to always be brought up in all the installs I've read about).

The c2d might be able to run the controller, but I would check the requirements. (Sounds like it should be fine.) If the processing power is too less, it may affect the wifi handoff.

There's never any bad questions! Measure twice, cut once isn't a bad strategy.

You can save a lot of money by finding the access point used or open box. Here's a place I check regularly for open box and have good success with:
https://www.cdw.com/search/?key=ubi...sr=1&sortby=priceasc&maxrecords=72&pcurrent=1

There's actually a lot of good deals in there right now, especially on some of the pricier equipment, like the Pros for the same price as you would normally pay for the LRs. These are corporate open box returns or clearance with a full 45-day return policy and full manufacturer's warranty. I buy from CDW all the time, and mostly from the outlet due to the deals.

To add onto this, If you know anyone in networking for example, say a hospital, or any larger company that is infrastructure upgrading. They will usually toss, or recoup a small amount for used equipment. Jut gotta ask.
The c2d should be fine, I hate to say I am not even sure if this laptop I've been using or typing this on is dual core. But as I said above, it gave an option to run as stand alone, wihtout the controller software installed. just logged in via cell phone and they were up and running. Free liquor deals galore!!

 

[SamirD]

Good point about tossed equipment--although usually if it's good it will end up at a liquidator and then ebay instead.

And you can install them without the cloud, but you won't have seamless handoff between them without the controller (from what I've read).

 

[fluffmonster]

Controller software does not have to be running for seamless handoff (for the APs at least). You only need the software for setup and monitoring. Running this way with two and no controller right now. The thing that sucks about the controller is that it requires java to run on windows.

 

[ToBYourself]

I apologize for taking so long to reply and update - as we all know, life just tends to get in the way.

I finally got all my ethernet run for the gigabit backplane (backbone? Cat 6e cable) for the 3 access points....got everything hooked up and am REALLY happy with the results!!!! I also ended up putting in 3x network drops into the basement office and adding some new 110v outlets in the office and the utility areas where I installed the network equipment.

Thank you @DaaQ for the suggestion of the EdgeRouterX-SFP. I ended up going with that and 3x of the Ubiquiti AP-AC-LR pucks. I chose the LR's mostly due to the 24v POE and I drive them from the EdgeRouterX instead of using the included injectors.

I also went with the TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Easy Smart Switch due to the fact that the case on it is metal and it can be wall mounted.

I took the opportunity to add an attic mount antenna and installed a SiliconDust HD Homerun Extend tuner (has two tuners). Since the coax I ran goes from the attic antenna to the basement, I also added a Winguard antenna preamp. My Plex now offers an amazing OTA TV and DVR solution (we cut the "cable" cord 5+ years ago).

In addition, I added a battery backup for the whole system for the surge protection and the battery backup. According to my Kill-a-Watt, the whole system powered up uses about 36-37 watts (including the Comcast cable modem). I disabled the wifi on the cable modem.

For now, I have the EdgeRouterX-SFP in switch mode - I anticipate changing that at some future point when I swap out the cable modem for my own equipment. Since I have internet and phone via Comcast, I won't switch out the modem until I have a different solution for my "landline". Maybe the OBI VoiP solution or something.

I am running the Ubiquiti controller software on my desktop - it's on all the time since it's also my Plex server.

I am extremely happy with everything so far!!!! All my wifi devices are evenly split among my 3 AP's......I really don't think I could have planned it any better! Thanks again to everyone for their help

One thing I didn't see mentioned that I would seriously consider is to get more devices like the Roku's off wireless.

The Roku's that we have are all the sticks....a single microUSB port mainly for power. We've been pretty happy with them on wifi, but two of the four had poor wifi with the previous solution. Now, they all are close enough to an AP....the Ubiquiti controller software is reporting all wifi devices have 97+% wifi experience. They are all acceptably fast on wifi now and I don't anticipate changing them.

I highly recommend this solution. I think I have less than $600 into it (including the HD Homerun but not the battery backup), but I already had the 500 ft of cabling around. I think the APC battery backup was around $70.

I did have an issue setting everything up....but as I look back on it, it was due to my lack of understanding/experience with a bit more advanced networking. On my installation, everything seemed to work as I anticipated the first time I configured. Specifically, I had no issue initially adopting the access points. Then I updated the controller software and lost control of the access points (through software - they still were working at the hardware level and allowing devices to connect). It turned out that the reboot of the desktop due to the upgrade of the Ubiquiti controller software (along with *&^$*%^W$^ Windows applying an update) gave my machine a new IP address which caused the controller software to no longer see the access points. I had assumed the controller software identified the access points via mac address...but I eventually learned that the access points only report back to the IP address of the machine that adopted them. I ended up defining static IP's for my base equipment (switch, router, access points, desktop, and HD Homerun), re-provisioned the access points (after having to factory reset them since I was having difficulty SSH'ing into them to perform the info command) and everything has been superb since then. Everything was initially setup as dynamic per Comcast default. I did enable the fast wifi switching and I haven't seen any issues so far. The only issue I'm seeing is a sporadically reported DNS latency - it seems that is is an ongoing reporting issue with the controller software, not an issue with the devices and their performance

Once again, THANK YOU ALL FOR THE GUIDANCE, ASSISTANCE, AND THE OVERALL HELP!!!!!!

 

[SamirD]

Controller software does not have to be running for seamless handoff (for the APs at least). You only need the software for setup and monitoring. Running this way with two and no controller right now. The thing that sucks about the controller is that it requires java to run on windows.

Great to hear this as I've been wondering how to get the seamless <1 ping handoff that my old Meraki units have except with today's wifi. Now I know.

 

[SamirD]

Thank you for reporting back! Great to hear of your awesome new setup! Now you can just get back to life.

 

[ToBYourself]

I guess I should have pointed out that I'm not running the controller software all the time for any network-related reason - the system hands off just fine without the controller running. However, logs aren't captured unless the controller software is running. I like to have full-time logs available.

 

[SamirD]

I guess I should have pointed out that I'm not running the controller software all the time for any network-related reason - the system hands off just fine without the controller running. However, logs aren't captured unless the controller software is running. I like to have full-time logs available.

Nice. Thank you for this. It's definitely going to help people doing similar setups.

Also, I forgot to mention you may not have to try to replace the comcast equipment to get what you want in terms of routing. There is a 'modem-only' mode on that gateway that should allow your ER to become your actual router, but I'm not sure if that mode still works with phone (but I would think it should.)

 

[ToBYourself]

Also, I forgot to mention you may not have to try to replace the comcast equipment to get what you want in terms of routing. There isWhen a 'modem-only' mode on that gateway that should allow your ER to become your actual router, but I'm not sure if that mode still works with phone (but I would think it should.)

My next steps are threefold:

1. Replace the landline from Comcast with some VoiP solution (maybe Obi...still researching);
2. Replace the Comcast modem (internet only) with a purchased one to get out from under the monthly rental; and
3. implement a Pi-Hole for adblocking.

At that point, I may want the ER-X to take over routing duties, especially when I add the Pi-Hole.

Not sure I'll do all three steps in the near future, but the first two will save me money on a monthly basis going forward. My landline was a requirement for me to work from home and work allowed me to expense a major portion of my bill. Since my work abolished the work from home program, I can no longer expense my internet/phone bill.

I expect to eventually move into a consulting role so I'd like to keep the convenience of the landline. I think that would help me in my future endeavors. The only thing I would give up by doing VoiP over Comcast landline is 911, but I do have my cell for that.

 

[SamirD]

I think that's a solid plan. For what it's worth, I have the sb6190 in two locations running 500Mbps plans without a hiccup on latency sensitive tasks like video conferencing and remote desktop sessions. And you can get these cheap since everyone pushes the 8200 since the sb6190 is supposedly 'bad'.

I actually bought one of the 6190s cheap from someone dumping it just because of the Internet hype--it's been on a 500/50 line that I've had multiple nailed up rdp sessions and it never misses a beat. And the funny thing is the other end of that connection is the 6190 I bought new. If there were any real issues in these models, I would have definitely found them.

For voice, have you looked into some of the cellular to wired phone bridges? You could have a dedicated cell number that's always on and plugged in and then connect that to one of the bridges to your home's regular phone lines and have a phone line without any worries.