Epox 8k3A and XP 1600+ questions

aGeNt73

Senior member
Jan 31, 2001
358
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Hi everyone!

Seeing as everyone seems to like the XP 1600+ and EpoX 8K3A+ combo from newegg, I was wondering if you guys could answer any or all the questions I have. I know they are probably in the other posts but theres so many opinions, maybe this could serve as a guide for others who want to get the same combo. I'm planning to get the EpoX 8k3A from mwave.com since newegg.com is currently OOS. And the XP 1600+ from newegg. Here are the questions though:

1) HSF Recommendation
- I don't care how loud it is, as long as it performs well

2) XP 1600 - do i need to unlock it? or can i just raise the FSB like most people are doing?

3) Memory
- I've read people were using PC2700 and some even used PC 2100. What brand/speed should i get? Ram is expensive these days with 512 sticks going for about 180 bux :(

4) EpoX 8KA versus the 8KA+
- What's the difference? Just a raid controller?


Basically all I need is the cpu and mb. I have the other parts already, and a nice enermax 400watt ps.

Thanks for yoru recommendations

-aGeNt 73
 

Parabol

Member
Jul 16, 2001
98
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0
I have the same mobo with an 1800+ and am using a Thermalight AX-7 HS w/ Panaflo fan. Have 512MB of PC2700 Mushkin. Processor is currently locked and I am rock-solid at 145FSB. I can get the FSB but since it's summer and I don't run the A/C 24/7 I don't want to push it. Click the link below my sig for more info. Good luck.
 

Paulster

Junior Member
Jul 26, 2002
2
0
0
Hi, I have the epox 8k3a and a athlon xp 1800+ and it worked great until the point where i messed up putting on my volcano7+ so i sent the chip back and am getting a new one soon. If you want to overclock a lot, then i would say that you should unlock it, if you only plan on ocing a little bit, then you probably wouldn't need to unlock it.
For a heatsink, the Volcano 7+ is pretty loud at high but it performs well and im sure that the SLK-800 is amazing performance if you get a good fan on it, but it is expensive. Make sure you just get arctic silver and most of those heatsinks will be pretty good. I got Samsung PC2700 ram and that works well. I am going to unlock my 1800 pretty soon to see how well i can oc it and keep it stable, if you look around, it doesn't seem to be very hard to do if you have patience.
 

jna

Senior member
Jun 1, 2002
234
0
0
Originally posted by: aGeNt73
Hi everyone!

Seeing as everyone seems to like the XP 1600+ and EpoX 8K3A+ combo from newegg, I was wondering if you guys could answer any or all the questions I have. I know they are probably in the other posts but theres so many opinions, maybe this could serve as a guide for others who want to get the same combo. I'm planning to get the EpoX 8k3A from mwave.com since newegg.com is currently OOS. And the XP 1600+ from newegg. Here are the questions though:

1) HSF Recommendation
- I don't care how loud it is, as long as it performs well

Yes, you may not care how loud it is, but do you care how much it costs? The Thermalright SLK800 is rumoured to be the best 80mm block of copper you can buy, if not afford. I would recommend getting an 80mm cooler period, because bigger fans move more air, or less air more quietly. Delta is making some enormous 80mm jet engines nowadays.

In my limited experience, including 40% and 25% with Duron 1.0's, 20% with a Tbird 1.0 and K6-2, and 15% (bleah) with a 1700+, quality of cooling (and voltage supplied) only affected the end range of the overclock. I might gain 3 fsb lowering load temps from 50C to 45C, and that is a whole lot of noise and cost in heatsink terms. My suggestion would be to see how far it will overclock with a stock cooler, and look at your core temps. At that point, spending $20 or more on a HS/F *may* gain you 5 FSB (assuming it's not the memory or PCI cards limiting you.) Now, going to a peltier or phase change system may gain you a lot more, but that's a different ballpark, isn't it? I think high-performance air cooling is dead. If you're going to be serious about it, why spend $50 or more on a HS/F that will make your ears bleed when a $100 liquid system will get you better performance? (mine was $70, homemade.)


2) XP 1600 - do i need to unlock it? or can i just raise the FSB like most people are doing?

If you're using an 8k3a, then you have a PCI divider at 166 FSB. Get the chip to 166 FSB, and you'll be much happier than changing the mutliplier at 133 (memory bandwidth = yummy).

3) Memory
- I've read people were using PC2700 and some even used PC 2100. What brand/speed should i get? Ram is expensive these days with 512 sticks going for about 180 bux :(

*real, genuine* PC2700 is guaranteed to run at 166mhz, so if you *know* the ram will run at 166, and you've unplugged all the pci cards, then that's just one less thing to worry about. Good PC2100 may run at 166mhz, or it may not, and the may or may not is your peace of mind.

4) EpoX 8KA versus the 8KA+
- What's the difference? Just a raid controller?


We should be talking about 8K3A, I assume. I have the 8K3A. The + has RAID, 6-channel sound, a nifty POST code LED, and costs a whole bunch more (like $30).

I am also extremely happy with my 8k3A and extremely disappointed, and even spiteful of, all other KT333 boards I have installed, including MSI and ECS. It's the second cheapest brand on pricewatch, how can you go wrong?
 

Mingon

Diamond Member
Apr 2, 2000
3,012
0
0
I have just replaced the 1800xp in my system with an agoia (green) 1600xp, now running in my epox board at 10.5 x 166 = 1743. I needed 1.95 volts to get it stable (I think 1.925 would have been enough but only 0.05v steps above 1.85) in my koolance case. The memory I am using is crucial cas 2.5 pc2100 running at 166mhz timing by speed and under the 'fast' settings with 2.8v (got thermaltake heatsinks on them).