Engine will not go above 5000 RPM.

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A

alpineranger

Senior member
Feb 3, 2001
701
0
76
interesting... I always wondered what would happen if vtec was not operational. I assumed there would be a lack of power at the high end, but didn't think it'd be that bad.
 
joutlaw

joutlaw

Golden Member
Feb 18, 2008
1,108
2
81
Interesting... Is this an Accord by chance?

I have a 94 Accord EX with over 270K miles (the speedometer doesn't work all the time, therefore mileage doesn't register).

I don't rag on it too hard, but it seems like VTEC doesn't engage like it used to. I believe this motor is a F22B1 and I recall it being more prominant in engagement in the past.

I recently replaced the oil pressure switch and spark plugs. I don't think the fuel filter has been replaced in quite some time.

The car also has a bad oil leak on the passenger side. I'm wondering if it causing the malfunction. I believe the VTEC solenoid is triangle shaped with 3 bolts. Do you remember?
 
SooperDave

SooperDave

Senior member
Nov 18, 2009
615
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Thanks for the follow up. Many times I find a thread with a similiar problem to one I have with a bunch of suggested fixes but no one follows up with the final fix.
 
A

alpineranger

Senior member
Feb 3, 2001
701
0
76
joutlaw said:
Interesting... Is this an Accord by chance?

I have a 94 Accord EX with over 270K miles (the speedometer doesn't work all the time, therefore mileage doesn't register).

I don't rag on it too hard, but it seems like VTEC doesn't engage like it used to. I believe this motor is a F22B1 and I recall it being more prominant in engagement in the past.

I recently replaced the oil pressure switch and spark plugs. I don't think the fuel filter has been replaced in quite some time.

The car also has a bad oil leak on the passenger side. I'm wondering if it causing the malfunction. I believe the VTEC solenoid is triangle shaped with 3 bolts. Do you remember?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the f22 but on at least most vtec d16 or b16/b18 it is a triangle shaped piece with a cylinder on top that bolts to the back of the head, just below the valve cover, on the passenger side. If you have an oil leak from here, it could definitely be causing some problems (oil is used to hydraulically actuate the vtec mechanism)
 
joutlaw

joutlaw

Golden Member
Feb 18, 2008
1,108
2
81
alpineranger said:
I'm not sure about the f22 but on at least most vtec d16 or b16/b18 it is a triangle shaped piece with a cylinder on top that bolts to the back of the head, just below the valve cover, on the passenger side. If you have an oil leak from here, it could definitely be causing some problems (oil is used to hydraulically actuate the vtec mechanism)
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to look into this then. It would only rev to around 5200 yesterday and I never felt VTEC engage. I don't remember when it engaged on this car, but 3500-4000 seems right.

On another note, I got to class last night and noticed coolant everywhere. I was able to make it home (around 25 miles). When I got to the last stop light the temp started moving over half way, but went down as soon as I gave it gas. I'm suspecting a leak somewhere that let air get in the system.

I just replaced the radiator around 2 months ago. Yesterday was the first day I used the A/C so I'm thinking something is off there. I'm hoping it's a hose(replaced the upper and lower) or bad connection.
 
C

chris89

Member
Dec 28, 2010
36
0
66
2010 thread yes I know but I'm running a 168k 95' accord ex f22b1 vtec.

This engine has tons of power from 0-4 grand and above 4 the timing changes, putting you more into the seat. Then finally after 4,900rpm, it engages high lift profile on the intake side only hints sohc.

Although my f22b1 revs and limits at the vtec power 4,900-5,200rpm. I changed gaskets and cleaned the entire vtec oil control solenoid. The single wire seems fine? No CEL for me, i did have that vtec malfunction code but not anymore. I thought it was my ECT on the head connector/ sensor was broken so I de-pinned the connector and electrical taped one wire. slid them on to the right pins on the ECT. Better power delivery but still no vtec.

edro said:
I found the problem.

Last night, I decided to take the VTEC solenoid valve off to visually inspect it.
While disconnecting the connector, the wire pulled out of the connector easily.
I decided to remove the connectors and solder the wires together.
I covered the splice with heat shrink tubing.

It works great now!
I was able to clear the check engine light with my code reader.
VTEC works again!
Click to expand...

I'm sort of stumped maybe my vtec solenoid went bad, I've babied this engine since I bought it. The vtec issue has been there since I bought it. Changed oil and filter, been only a couple hundred miles. It does leak though on the oil pan I'm fairly certain and valve cover. I have a new valve cover gasket. Maybe it's the cam seal isn't allowing proper pressure?

I was thinking it was warm up mode continuously never allowing the computer to say it's okay for vtec now. When it's fully warmed up and after running hard it only sits at 1/4 on the gauge. Normal driving though it sits at 1/8th of the gauge so it runs cool. Even the valve cover was not hot after it had been running for a while... Maybe thermostat is stuck open possibly? Maybe it hasn't reached the what above 180-190F mark?

THANKS
 
evident

evident

Lifer
Apr 5, 2005
12,128
748
126
chris89 said:
2010 thread yes I know but I'm running a 168k 95' accord ex f22b1 vtec.

This engine has tons of power from 0-4 grand and above 4 the timing changes, putting you more into the seat. Then finally after 4,900rpm, it engages high lift profile on the intake side only hints sohc.

Although my f22b1 revs and limits at the vtec power 4,900-5,200rpm. I changed gaskets and cleaned the entire vtec oil control solenoid. The single wire seems fine? No CEL for me, i did have that vtec malfunction code but not anymore. I thought it was my ECT on the head connector/ sensor was broken so I de-pinned the connector and electrical taped one wire. slid them on to the right pins on the ECT. Better power delivery but still no vtec.



I'm sort of stumped maybe my vtec solenoid went bad, I've babied this engine since I bought it. The vtec issue has been there since I bought it. Changed oil and filter, been only a couple hundred miles. It does leak though on the oil pan I'm fairly certain and valve cover. I have a new valve cover gasket. Maybe it's the cam seal isn't allowing proper pressure?

I was thinking it was warm up mode continuously never allowing the computer to say it's okay for vtec now. When it's fully warmed up and after running hard it only sits at 1/4 on the gauge. Normal driving though it sits at 1/8th of the gauge so it runs cool. Even the valve cover was not hot after it had been running for a while... Maybe thermostat is stuck open possibly? Maybe it hasn't reached the what above 180-190F mark?

THANKS
Click to expand...


I recently had to swap out the vtec solenoid on my sister's 04 Accord about a month ago. had the exact same problem as described in this thread.

As soon as she got the CEL i didnt even bother cleaning it or anything , the entire assembly was about $80 and was easy to get to. swapped it out and did a full oil change and hasn't had those symptoms come back
 
S

silicon

Senior member
Nov 27, 2004
886
1
81
edro said:
My older Accord will not go above 5000 RPM lately. It's almost as if a rev limiter is engaged.
I rarely go above 5000 RPM but sometimes, when you need to get on the highway, you need it.

I think it redlines at 6 or 7000.

I read online that a dirty air filter will sometimes cause this because the engine is lacking airflow, so the ECU limits the RPM so you don't blow your engine.
I haven't changed my air filter in at least 3 years.

I will get a new air filter tonight, but I thought I would ask opinions on here in case I should try anything else while at the car parts store.
Click to expand...

i would look at the exhaust system after changing the air filter. a restriction in the catalytic converter or the exhaust pipe will cause the revs to be limited.
 
D

dbcooper1

Senior member
May 22, 2008
594
0
76
edro said:
I found the problem.

Last night, I decided to take the VTEC solenoid valve off to visually inspect it.
While disconnecting the connector, the wire pulled out of the connector easily.
I decided to remove the connectors and solder the wires together.
I covered the splice with heat shrink tubing.

It works great now!
I was able to clear the check engine light with my code reader.
VTEC works again!
Click to expand...

That's about the best you could have hoped for. Why is the oil level low; does it burn or leak?
 
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