Engine Rebuild Piston Reringing! Ring Ring Ring!

[FuzzyDunlop]

Looking good, did the machine shop check the ring lands for excessive wear or are those new pistons?.

I am not sure. They are the same pistons. He returned them to me de-rings, so that would probably be why.


QUESTION: should I still use High Mileage oil on a rebuilt engine? probably shouldnt have to, eh?

 

[Aikouka]

I probably wouldn't have put the oil filter on before putting the block into the car. I guess you could say that my mind thinks of the worst that could happen to that frail piece of protruding metal.

 

[SuperSix]

What did it cost to freshen up those items? What exactly was done?

 

[BUTCH1]

I am not sure. They are the same pistons. He returned them to me de-rings, so that would probably be why.


QUESTION: should I still use High Mileage oil on a rebuilt engine? probably shouldnt have to, eh?

I wouldn't, with new rings and fresh cylinder hone you should be good to go. What I would do is before first crank run the starter (with fuel pump disabled) in short bursts then rest, (to avoid overheating it) to get the oil pump primed and oil into all the galleries before actually firing it up for the first time, looks like you've been using assembly lube so that's a good thing too.

 

[BW86]

Use a non synthetic oil to break in your motor

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

What did it cost to freshen up those items? What exactly was done?

quoting myself from my main thread: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2156092&page=17

4 Cylinder hone: $32.00
4 Cylnder Block resurface: $65.00
4 Cylinder Head resurface: $28.00
Crank Polished: $38.00
Shop supplies: $9.89
TOTAL SHOP: $172.89

Complete Engine Rebuild Kit: $208.69 (about the same as Rockauto)
-includes all gaskets, Oversized rings (ordered to match hone), all bearings, valve seals - everything

Other Parts:
Water Thermostat: $7.00
Oil Pressure Switch: $26.00
Oil Pump: $75.00
Water Pump: $25.00
Cylinder Head Bolts: $32.00
Flywheel Bolts (nearly stripped one taking it off): $64.00
Rod Bolts: $44.00
Toyota Copper Crushwashers: cant find the right size anywhere else: $30.00ish

TOTAL rebuild cost so far: $675.00-$700.00 with cleaning supplies and miscilaneous.

I should have had a 5 angle grind done to the valve seats as well. but, should still be ok.

Thanks for the input guys.
The motor is completely rebuilt.
I tried to turn it over once, but gas sprayed all over the rear window and engine bay. Therefore, I am waiting on some copper crush washers (more like Toyota Wallet Rape Washers!) to be delivered, then that'll stop a fuel leak I have, and I should be set to start 'er up. Antsy!

How long is too long to let it sit with assembly lube and not starting it?
Will it be ok to let it sit built for a week if I have too?
I filled it with oil and turned the crank a few times - dont know if that really does anything though.

 

[LTC8K6]

Disconnect the fuel pump when you crank it. You can crank it for a few seconds at a time.

After a few short cranks, you can then crank it a bit longer, enough to see if you get some oil pressure, if you have a gauge.

Keep a charger on the battery, and let the starter rest between cranks.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Car started today.
Greatest feeling ever.

Major fuel leak though. Awaiting new fuel injectors and o-ring kit in the mail that'll fix the leak.

 

[BUTCH1]

Car started today.
Greatest feeling ever.

Major fuel leak though. Awaiting new fuel injectors and o-ring kit in the mail that'll fix the leak.

Awesome!, keep us updated..

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Heres a short video before i took it around the block and fuel started spraying everywhere.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeLp-0gbEM4

A bee attacked me at the end.

 

[BUTCH1]

Heres a short video before i took it around the block and fuel started spraying everywhere.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeLp-0gbEM4

A bee attacked me at the end.

Sounds smooth, fix the fuel issue though, I once had a Cutlass F-85 that I replaced the carb on, I reused a small piece of rubber fuel line that started spewing gas when I first cranked it, car backfired, just a little pop as I shut it down, caught the entire engine on fire and ruined the car..

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

I keep a fire extinguisher inside the car in case of anything like that every happening. Paranoid maybe. Ive used one charge while I was welding already: saved my garage - I will ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher handy after that experience.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

YEAAA YYYYAAAA YAAAAA!!!!
Just got back from a 20mile jaunt. ahhhh I missed this car. Even with taking it easy on the new engine its just a blast to drive.
New injectors and O-rings came in yesterday. Today I swapped the new ones in (took about 10 minutes). Took a few cranks to get the car going again but I did! Oh what glorious feeling! At the moment I believe I have a slight vacuum leak somewhere as I have a lack of power. Will search for that when there is better light.

Now I have it parked over some carboard for the night. I didnt see any leaks at all, but if there are, the cardboard will show it.

I need to snap a photo of the newly built engine. It looks very much the same -just cleaner.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hfTWEkLZno

 

[exdeath]

Vacuum leak will cause driveability issues and fast idle, not any appreciable lack of power. Is that engine MAP or MAF?

Double check both mechanical cam timing (or just do a quick compression test) and ignition timing and don't forget to pull the jumper out of the diagnostic port that disables electronic advance.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Vacuum leak will cause driveability issues and fast idle, not any appreciable lack of power. Is that engine MAP or MAF?

Double check both mechanical cam timing (or just do a quick compression test) and ignition timing and don't forget to pull the jumper out of the diagnostic port that disables electronic advance.

MAF. At least for now (big plans for future)
I maybe just need to clean the air filter.
Its not a major lack of power, just feels bogged a little. And LOL, ya I removed the jumper (almost forgot it in tonight, funny you mention it).

 

[JCH13]

Not sure how much of an impact it would make, but the rings haven't seated into the new bore yet, which will cost you some ponies.

Congratulations on rebuilding the engine! :thumbsup:

 

[natto fire]

Congrats on the rebuild. That is where the fun really begins and you have the confidence to tackle more complex mechanical jobs which improve driving experience.

I would wait until the engine is broken in to start addressing power issues, always watching the temp gauge and checking the oil of course.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Thanks guys!
Tonight Im going to check for leaks, do a quick oil change (5w-30 Mobil Super 1000 for New Vehicles) and do some easy miles on the motor.

How long of a break in period should I take?

 

[BUTCH1]

Not sure how much of an impact it would make, but the rings haven't seated into the new bore yet, which will cost you some ponies.

Congratulations on rebuilding the engine! :thumbsup:

This, when I re-rung my 1.8L Ford (along with head work) it took it awhile to feel "normal" again, all the new parts gotta sit down and find their home, once they do OP should be good to go..

 

[JCH13]

Thanks guys!
Tonight Im going to check for leaks, do a quick oil change (5w-30 Mobil Super 1000 for New Vehicles) and do some easy miles on the motor.

How long of a break in period should I take?

The numbers I hear are 600-2,000 miles. Personally, I'd aim for 600 miles.

I've also heard that you don't want to baby it TOO much, that some aggressive driving will help seat the rings. This makes sense to me because in-cylinder pressure is used to press the rings against the bore. I would keep it under 3/4 of redline and avoid WOT.

An oil change is a good idea, get all the assembly lube out of there.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

so i did a comrpession test. Numbers are low across the board.

120-130 dry and 130-140 wet in all cylinders.
From what I understand I should be at about 150-160 at least.
Would this mean on of my cam gears is off a tooth?

 

[alkemyst]

so i did a comrpession test. Numbers are low across the board.

120-130 dry and 130-140 wet in all cylinders.
From what I understand I should be at about 150-160 at least.
Would this mean on of my cam gears is off a tooth?

Usually if the wet test doesn't change it's valves...you may have two issues going on. I'd start with cam timing though.

 

[JCH13]

so i did a comrpession test. Numbers are low across the board.

120-130 dry and 130-140 wet in all cylinders.
From what I understand I should be at about 150-160 at least.
Would this mean on of my cam gears is off a tooth?

Just to cover the bases, you did the compression test with the engine warm, and with the throttle wide open, right?

How many miles does it have on it since the rebuild?

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Just to cover the bases, you did the compression test with the engine warm, and with the throttle wide open, right?

How many miles does it have on it since the rebuild?

DERP!

 

[BUTCH1]

so i did a comrpession test. Numbers are low across the board.

120-130 dry and 130-140 wet in all cylinders.
From what I understand I should be at about 150-160 at least.
Would this mean on of my cam gears is off a tooth?

Usually there are timing marks on the head and crank but I agree it needs to be WOT for a proper test..