E6300/DS3/G.SKILL/Tuniq

[imported_Truenofan]

tat apparently uses a diode in the cores itself they were designed into them after the pentium m, so the temps are more than likely spot on. i would never go with something that displays lower temps because it could always be off, just because you would like to believe you have enough airflow, or that your hsf is doing a great job and keeping the temps low, you can always be wrong. i prefer tat, my temps get into the low 60's.

 

[Cheex]

Originally posted by: Cheex
Can someone in the know, tell me what is going on here on this screenshot.

I need a breakdown, a play-by-play if you will...

Temp1: My video card tells me that the temp in my case is 42C, which verifies the Temp1 in SpeedFan. Also, that is the temp that i get from TAT for my CPU cores @ idle (which i don't think are right).

Temp2: This is the same reading I get for my CPU in my bios and with the Easy Tune 5 utility. This could never really be my CPU temp but what is it really?

Temp3: Maybe a faulty or non-existent sensor, I don't know what it is but if anyone does...please enlighten me.

HD0: This is my hard drive temp under some load and it is correct. Ranges from 28C-41C depending on load.

Core0/1: Is this saying that my CPU temp is 28C/29C ????? When I load the CPU, these temps go up to like 37C-39C under normal load and up to 45C under full load from TAT (which at this point shows me 59C). At idle, the 28C-29C is actually slightly higher than ambient in my room which is about 24C-26C with the A/C off.

Keep in mind that these temps are with my Tuniq Tower @ full speed.

 

[Cheex]

I need some help with the above post as well as this one:

I have overclocked my E6300 to 3.010GHz (430x7) without breaking a sweat.
Problem is: I left Orthos running and went to work this morning. I called home and found out that it failed at 2 hours 43 minutes.

1) Does that mean that it isn't "stable"?
2) What would be needed now to get it stable?

 

[Zambien]

You're never going to run your processors that hard in real life unless you're running something like orthos or some other distributed computing calculation program. I would say that that is stable.

However, from a purist's perspective, you should be able to run Orthos for 10+ hours without failure for a system to be considered stable. Since you are currently running at stock voltage (assuming your sig is correct) I would say increase the volts just a little bit. Going from 1.325 to 1.330 should do it because you're REALLY close to being considered stable at this point. Or if you don't want to change the volts, drop your o/c like 5mhz on the fsb setting.

 

[Cheex]

My sig info is correct but i have another question...

My first task is to get the highest OC on stock volts (for now). Now, since as the blend test stresses both CPU and RAM, could the failure be due to the memory voltage? It is rated at 2.0V-2.1V and I decided to run it at 2.0V. Seeing as though the memory is now over specs. I should probably run that at 2.1V.

As the the temps: They have only gone up by 1C-2C in all the temp programs but i still don't know which one to trust. I need an explanation of the SpeedFan readings (which I think is correct).

 

[Zambien]

Yes, run it at 2.1. Also, when using Orthos you should be using the CPU test (Small FFTs). You should be stable with the CPU test prior to running the blend test.

 

[Cheex]

Okay, thanks for the tip.

I'll post again when I get more results.

 

[CloE]

core temp 0.95 is working great for me. I have vista and it works, never crashed.

 

[Cheex]

I think Core Temp 0.95 is behaving itself now. i don't know why it was misbehaving before but anyway...
I'm at work but I left Orthos running Small FFTs (Stress CPU) at home.

Check my sig for specs.

 

[Cheex]

I called home and was told that Orthos failed at 1 hour and 20 minutes. Does that suggest now that I have surpassed the highest "stable" clock speed for the stock voltage?

 

[Cheex]

Okay...I've backed down to stock. I have noticed that even with a mild overclock, I will have cold boot issues....refuse to boot, have to power off and back on several times to get the machine to POST and then BIOS resets to stock speed.

Why is that???

 

[Zardnok]

I think you need to loosen up your RAM timings a bit. Go to 5-5-5-15 and try again. Otherwise, try 1.4 on your CPU voltage and see what happens. The Tuniq will keep it plenty cool.

 

[Cheex]

I have decided to trust the Intel TAT temperatures and I believe you about the plenty cool part.
(BTW: How is 43C idle & 61C load???)

I guess I will have to try those new settings when I go home from work.
Also, what has been the upper limit on the L2 Conroe CPUs like mine?


NOTE: This is my 1000th post.

 

[Cheex]

Originally posted by: Zardnok
I think you need to loosen up your RAM timings a bit. Go to 5-5-5-15 and try again. Otherwise, try 1.4 on your CPU voltage and see what happens. The Tuniq will keep it plenty cool.

CPU voltage was set to 1.4V and RAM timings were set to 5-5-5-15. I ran Orthos while measuring temps with both TAT and SpeedFan. My BIOS is set to shutdown the system when my CPU temp hits 70C. This screenshot is proof that i don't think TAT is accurate and that SpeedFan's Core0 and Core1 temps are more accurate in my opinion (you all can comment on this). TAT shows 70C on one of the cores and my comp still stays running and there are no warning beeps or anything. Next thing is that those aren't the max temps that I saw during the test (took this just before i stopped it). Both cores hit 73C in TAT and 58C/59C (Core0/1) in SpeedFan.


Comments....
Thoughts....
Suggestions....

 

[Cheex]

I'm going to do Orthos blend test overnight tonight at 3.2GHz (458x7) and see what happens.

Comments....
Thoughts....
Suggestions....

 

[myocardia]

Originally posted by: Cheex
This screenshot

That screenshot says that your cpu socket temp is 46C, your chipset temp is 54C, you don't have a third temp sensor on your motherboard, so you can "get rid" of temp 3, and you know what the rest mean, I assume.

 

[Cheex]

Thanx for the break-down but are these temps accurate?

 

[myocardia]

Do you mean do I know what I'm talking about? If so, yeah, that's what those temps are. If you mean are the temps accurate, then yeah, they aren't gonna be spot-on, but they're close. There was a long discussion here, a few days after the C2D's were released, about that. The people who own one came to the conclusion that since C2D's don't throttle until they reach +70*C, according to SpeedFan, and since the purpose of throttling is to protect the processor, that Intel's 61*C thermal limit must apply to the socket temp, not the TAT temp. Besides, you've got the second best heatsink on the market. AT runs their X6800 @ up to 3.93 Ghz @ 1.575v with that heatsink. You're fine.

 

[Cheex]

Originally posted by: myocardia
Do you mean do I know what I'm talking about? If so, yeah, that's what those temps are. If you mean are the temps accurate, then yeah, they aren't gonna be spot-on, but they're close. There was a long discussion here, a few days after the C2D's were released, about that. The people who own one came to the conclusion that since C2D's don't throttle until they reach +70*C, according to SpeedFan, and since the purpose of throttling is to protect the processor, that Intel's 61*C thermal limit must apply to the socket temp, not the TAT temp. Besides, you've got the second best heatsink on the market. AT runs their X6800 @ up to 3.93 Ghz @ 1.575v with that heatsink. You're fine.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

I can finally decide what to trust -- SpeedFan.

I will keep this up to date.

PS: The only part I don't like, is the "second best" part but its still all good...
Nuff Luv AT!!

 

[myocardia]

Well, the Tuniq was the absolute best, until just a few weeks ago. I'm not even sure that the Thermalright Ultra 120 is available to buy yet.

 

[Cheex]

Tuniq is still the best right out of the box because with the Ultra 120 you have to buy a fan (ew).


How close to ambient can my Tuniq keep my CPU at idle?

 

[putergoon]

I have a E6300@3.15ghz (7x450), DS3v1, Patriot DDR2-667@4-5-5-12 at 2.1v with a relatively inexpensive Artic Cooler 7. My temps went down dramatically by lowering the CPU volts. I started out a full .10v above stock and have been slowly lowering each time I boot up in the morning. Right now I'm at 1.350v and have noticed no difference in perfomance or reliability but my core temps have dropped from idle of 36-39c to 29-30c. My point is to lower your cpu voltage.

 

[Cheex]

I'm definitely planning on doing that but not right away. Also, 1.4V on the CPU and 2.1V on the RAM isn't enough for 3.2GHz (458x7). I tried it 3 times, failed at 5, 17 and 15 minutes respectively.

At 1.4V though, my temps max out at 58C under Orthos load.

 

[Cheex]

Well I'm more or less certain now that I'm stable at 3.150GHz (450x7) @ 1.4V but I want to go higher, any recommendations?


Here are the shots:
13 hours Orthos blend.
I stopped it about 3 minutes after the screenshot.

Then I ran 1 hour of Orthos Large FFTs.

 

[Cheex]

I was thinking about what to do next....

1) Should I try to reduce voltage and/or tighten memory timings at the current OC...or...
2) Increase the voltage(s) and try to go higher.

I need advice from the pros now on what to do because I'm rock solid stable at 3.150GHz (450x7) right now.