yeah i think i have the pins rights - basically after the pins are installed - the pins show that if i turn the pins - i would be able to take them out.
Right. They have little individual locking/pressure mechanisms that are only activated when the pin is turned completely in the other direction from the arrow. Did you take a look at the bottom of the board to verify that the pins are all the way through? Also, what kind of "system" temps are you getting?
I'll admit I'm a bit stumped here, because 99% of the time when you have high temps at idle it's one of these:
1) CPU cooler pins not completely fastened.
2) Too thick a layer of thermal compound.
3) CPU cooler fan not spinning.
I'll admit I'm a bit stumped here, because 99% of the time when you have high temps at idle it's one of these:
1) CPU cooler pins not completely fastened.
2) Too thick a layer of thermal compound.
3) CPU cooler fan not spinning.
i had taken a look at the bottom the first time when i installed it - ive wiped a lot of the thermal compound off -- the cpu fan is also spinning.
I get 37 - 40C for both cores at idle via core temp.
In the BIOS - I was getting i think 50-51C - when not in the OS.
I get 37 - 40C for both cores at idle via core temp.
In the BIOS - I was getting i think 50-51C - when not in the OS.
To clarify, the most recent time you installed the CPU cooler, were you able to look at the bottom of the board to make sure each pin was fully through?
I took everything out now - just to make sure - now mate I reapplied the thermal compound again - i tried my best to put a line in the middle - it barely looked like a line - its a dab high - I put all my force in the pins - made sure all of them came out back of the motherboard - nice and strong now - the idle temp I see now in windows - with just the damn stock cooler running is 36 C for first core and 37C for the second one.
No OCing done - i didnt even connect PCI-E to the damn nvidia - just one stock cooler -- the motherboard is out on a carton.
Does that temp seem normal or still high
No OCing done - i didnt even connect PCI-E to the damn nvidia - just one stock cooler -- the motherboard is out on a carton.
Does that temp seem normal or still high
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
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I feel stumped on this.
What's your room-ambient -- your room temperature where you have the computer?
The worst trouble I've had with these two cheap motherboards -- the adhesive-TIM between the chipset and the aluminum cooler came loose. The MCP temperatures on one machine were close to 50C and on the other one, about 36C tops at load.
I just yanked the thing -- spent an hour or two searching the case for a spring that popped from the heatsink fitting -- replaced it with a spare TR HR-05 chipset cooler -- cable-tied a fan to it, and it now runs at load no higher than 30C for the chipset with the thing over-clocked.
Even if your room temperatures are high, though . . . .let me think . . .
If your room ambient is 78F, you shouldn't have idle temperatures much higher than 30 to 32C. It's about 67F here now, so my idle values are around 20 to 22C in my full-tower system and closer to 24C in the midtower.
What's your room-ambient -- your room temperature where you have the computer?
The worst trouble I've had with these two cheap motherboards -- the adhesive-TIM between the chipset and the aluminum cooler came loose. The MCP temperatures on one machine were close to 50C and on the other one, about 36C tops at load.
I just yanked the thing -- spent an hour or two searching the case for a spring that popped from the heatsink fitting -- replaced it with a spare TR HR-05 chipset cooler -- cable-tied a fan to it, and it now runs at load no higher than 30C for the chipset with the thing over-clocked.
Even if your room temperatures are high, though . . . .let me think . . .
If your room ambient is 78F, you shouldn't have idle temperatures much higher than 30 to 32C. It's about 67F here now, so my idle values are around 20 to 22C in my full-tower system and closer to 24C in the midtower.
I'm stumped, too. First, to reassure you, 37C is not going to hurt anything, we're just concerned because it is substantially higher than what we would expect. The key is what the temps get up to under load (e.g. Orthos blend or small FFTs), where a problem could lead to CPU-damaging temps. Perhaps your BIOS is actively managing the CPU fan to reduce speed (and thus noise) at relatively low temps. If so, there should be a BIOS setting to change CPU fan control to "disabled" or something like that which would in theory leave the CPU fan running at max. In any case, try running Orthos and see what kinds of temps you get during that.
37C temp is normal using the stock heatsink on a IP35-C motherboard; not sure how accurate those readings are, but mine is similar. Relax. Under load the temp will increase to 57C or so.
Regarding the thermal compound, make sure you spread it smoothly on top of the chip; you don't want too much. As the others have said, look at the back side of the board to make sure the barbs on the clips are springing out on the backside of the board - you only turn the clips to take off the heatsink, not install it.
The stock thermal compound is good stuff, no benefit from changing unless you are a numbers watcher and get wood over seeing a 2C difference on the thermal probe. Regarding lapping the HS or chip, this is pure mental masturbation; the chip is plenty flat as is the stock headsink.
Sorry to sound like a grump, can't help myself sometimes.
Your chip is fine. Now get busy cranking up that bad boy to see what it will really do.
Regarding the thermal compound, make sure you spread it smoothly on top of the chip; you don't want too much. As the others have said, look at the back side of the board to make sure the barbs on the clips are springing out on the backside of the board - you only turn the clips to take off the heatsink, not install it.
The stock thermal compound is good stuff, no benefit from changing unless you are a numbers watcher and get wood over seeing a 2C difference on the thermal probe. Regarding lapping the HS or chip, this is pure mental masturbation; the chip is plenty flat as is the stock headsink.
Sorry to sound like a grump, can't help myself sometimes.
Your chip is fine. Now get busy cranking up that bad boy to see what it will really do.
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
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I disagree about the lapping, only recently a convert. Many coolers are plated with nickel, and the IHS is plated with nickel. Exposing the copper surfaces increases thermal transfer.
Some heatsinks are made deliberately convex, and I've discovered with a straightedge that processor caps are definitely not flat.
Several people are reporting 5C degree or more temperature improvements with the lapping, using the same mobo, and same heatsink (before and after lapping).
But as I, you and others here have said, it hardly matters on these budget E21x0 processors. This is the first time in my memory, going back to some Pentium IV's I built in 2002, that I've used the stock cooler -- even initially.
The way this is working out, it isn't worth the money to put a $50 heatpipe cooler on these E21x0 processors.
Some heatsinks are made deliberately convex, and I've discovered with a straightedge that processor caps are definitely not flat.
Several people are reporting 5C degree or more temperature improvements with the lapping, using the same mobo, and same heatsink (before and after lapping).
But as I, you and others here have said, it hardly matters on these budget E21x0 processors. This is the first time in my memory, going back to some Pentium IV's I built in 2002, that I've used the stock cooler -- even initially.
The way this is working out, it isn't worth the money to put a $50 heatpipe cooler on these E21x0 processors.
I put a Thermalright XP120 on my E2200 only because it was a carryover from my old A64 rig. Ran the chip with the OE cooler first though. The XP is a noticeable improvement but the stock cooler was acceptable. No way I'd spend $50 on a cooler - the chip doesn't appreciate it. A $20 Arctic Cooler is about as far as I would go considering the cost of the chip.
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
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I hear ya on that.
For the five or six bucks a pop, I bought the LGA 775 fittings for my SI-120 and an XP-90 -- which come off the systems that were decommissioned to build these new ones.
For the five or six bucks a pop, I bought the LGA 775 fittings for my SI-120 and an XP-90 -- which come off the systems that were decommissioned to build these new ones.
WEW,
Two questions/ideas.
There is a "burn in" time for heat transfer material. Somewhere around 100 hours or so.
Also, and this may be what you've been thinking, you may have a hotter chip. No harm done, no seriously lower cap on overclocking. Just watch your temps and do everything you can.
Also keep in mind that a $70 chip with a $70 after market cooler seems stupid, but you can always take that cooler and stick it on a new 45NM chip when you upgrade.
Two questions/ideas.
There is a "burn in" time for heat transfer material. Somewhere around 100 hours or so.
Also, and this may be what you've been thinking, you may have a hotter chip. No harm done, no seriously lower cap on overclocking. Just watch your temps and do everything you can.
Also keep in mind that a $70 chip with a $70 after market cooler seems stupid, but you can always take that cooler and stick it on a new 45NM chip when you upgrade.
Thanks guys - I got frustrated and returned the chip to newegg - I even sold my Antec P182 - cuz it was too damn big.
I was using this build for myself or was going to give my current build to my mum - and keep this one.
Now - I think newegg will hit me with a 15% restocking plus I paid to send it back.
I still need a budget build -- I've already sold my Antec P182 - and now am looking for a cheap compact case - I think cooler master centurion comes around during specials for like $25 AR - might get that.
And then rebuy another chip -- dont know which one to buy - she just needs it for internet - etc. I think I have given up on the OCing.
I was using this build for myself or was going to give my current build to my mum - and keep this one.
Now - I think newegg will hit me with a 15% restocking plus I paid to send it back.
I still need a budget build -- I've already sold my Antec P182 - and now am looking for a cheap compact case - I think cooler master centurion comes around during specials for like $25 AR - might get that.
And then rebuy another chip -- dont know which one to buy - she just needs it for internet - etc. I think I have given up on the OCing.
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
- 16,689
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Well, I already said it, I think . . . .
From my experience, the E2140 is an easier over-clock at 1:1 to 2.67 Ghz than the E2180.
Or -- you could just try another E2160.
On our end, I think we're happier'n pigs in pooh with either the "'40" or the "'80". But as I also said, I believe these three models were all manufactured to the same specs, and the multiplier was just locked on a batch-by-batch basis, so Intel could pursue "low-end product-differentiation."
From my experience, the E2140 is an easier over-clock at 1:1 to 2.67 Ghz than the E2180.
Or -- you could just try another E2160.
On our end, I think we're happier'n pigs in pooh with either the "'40" or the "'80". But as I also said, I believe these three models were all manufactured to the same specs, and the multiplier was just locked on a batch-by-batch basis, so Intel could pursue "low-end product-differentiation."
Alright - I got a new case - sold the Antec P182 - too big for me - its the Cooler Master Centurion 5 - I like it - got my replacement E2160 chip from newegg.
I didnt put the Arctic Silver - went with the default cooler and its heatsink - my idle temps in Windows OS is Core 0 - 25C and Core 1 - 22C. This reading is from coretemp - if I use the Abit EQ software -- the temp is 28C
This seems reasonable - I guess I should be able to overclock it to 3ghz - just need some helping doing it as to what settings I need to change in the BIOS. Thanks!
I didnt put the Arctic Silver - went with the default cooler and its heatsink - my idle temps in Windows OS is Core 0 - 25C and Core 1 - 22C. This reading is from coretemp - if I use the Abit EQ software -- the temp is 28C
This seems reasonable - I guess I should be able to overclock it to 3ghz - just need some helping doing it as to what settings I need to change in the BIOS. Thanks!
VirtualLarry
No Lifer
- Aug 25, 2001
- 56,587
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First, install Prime95 25.5 and CoreTemp (0.96 is prefferred, but hard to find now).
Then, in the BIOS, disable SpeedStep and C1E. Leave TM2 enabled.
Set your memory to reasonable timings, like 5-5-5-15, with a memory multiplier ratio of 1:1 (2.0 for gigabyte boards).
Increase the FSB by 10Mhz each time, and test for 10 minutes using Prime95, and watch the temps using CoreTemp.
Continue increasing the FSB until you get errors in Prime95 (or reboots, or BSODs possible too).
Once that happens, you need to increase Vcore. Test again, and increase vcore until Prime95 shows stability again. Then increase FSB.
Do this until temps get unreasonable, or vcore gets too high.
I recommend 70C and 1.45v as maximums.
Once you reach your max stable OC, then test Prime95 small FFTs for 24 hours.
If you want to, then now is the time to tweak your memory speeds and timings.
Test them with a bootable Memtest86+ CD, running for 24 hours.
When you're all done, you should also crank your FSB DOWN a little bit, to give a bit of headroom for 24/7 running.
Then, in the BIOS, disable SpeedStep and C1E. Leave TM2 enabled.
Set your memory to reasonable timings, like 5-5-5-15, with a memory multiplier ratio of 1:1 (2.0 for gigabyte boards).
Increase the FSB by 10Mhz each time, and test for 10 minutes using Prime95, and watch the temps using CoreTemp.
Continue increasing the FSB until you get errors in Prime95 (or reboots, or BSODs possible too).
Once that happens, you need to increase Vcore. Test again, and increase vcore until Prime95 shows stability again. Then increase FSB.
Do this until temps get unreasonable, or vcore gets too high.
I recommend 70C and 1.45v as maximums.
Once you reach your max stable OC, then test Prime95 small FFTs for 24 hours.
If you want to, then now is the time to tweak your memory speeds and timings.
Test them with a bootable Memtest86+ CD, running for 24 hours.
When you're all done, you should also crank your FSB DOWN a little bit, to give a bit of headroom for 24/7 running.
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