dumb question about drilling into drywall

[foghorn67]

So that the makers of cheap drills can keep selling new ones or expensive chucks when theirs break. I had a Ryobi cordless drill that would not hold drill bit tight enough to drill into pine studs without the bit slipping. I replaced the chuck with a Jacobs and never had a problem after that...until the battery charger died of course.

Cheap drills are NEVER worth the money.

The biggest problem I have with drills are the batteries. I don't use them enough to keep the batteries conditioned. The motors and chucks are all working perfectly after years of use (or non-use).
I did myself a favor and bought a cheap corded drill with a decent chuck. Great power, and worry free unless you have to work sans extension cord.

Corded drills are a great supplement to have.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

huh? no it wouldn't wtf kind of drywall are you using?

It's basically just plaster with a thin coating of paper. Are you saying you use something different or is it called something different in the US?

It won't hold sheit unless you use drywall plugs and the shit just hangs there with an even load at all times.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

I've found four sets of studs, and I'm putting 3 screws in each.

That'll work just fine, no less than 3 inch screws though.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

duh, but it's not going to get pushed straight through the drywall like JOS said. i should know i've done it quite a few times.

Why would you even tap it, you can use your thumb and push it straight through without any effort.

If it's not a picture frame, forget it and don't use screws in drywall without support, it's just stupid, all it does is grind the plaster apart, you can try it with a piece of drywall that isn't up yet, it just crumbles and leaves a hole, there is no bearing afterwards.

IF you absolutely need to hang anything that cant' be hung with a needle then you drill with a high speed drill and use an expanderplug with the proper tool, you will not crumble the plaster and you'll give it good support by a clean hole and the expander on the back of it.

Using screws only in drywall is just daft.

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

Why would you even tap it, you can use your thumb and push it straight through without any effort.

If it's not a picture frame, forget it and don't use screws in drywall without support, it's just stupid, all it does is grind the plaster apart, you can try it with a piece of drywall that isn't up yet, it just crumbles and leaves a hole, there is no bearing afterwards.

IF you absolutely need to hang anything that cant' be hung with a needle then you drill with a high speed drill and use an expanderplug with the proper tool, you will not crumble the plaster and you'll give it good support by a clean hole and the expander on the back of it.

Using screws only in drywall is just daft.

if you can push your thumb through drywall without effort you are either one of the world's strongest men, or confused as to what drywall is.

 

[vi edit]

A 1/4" impact driver would make your life so much easier.

I :heart; my impact driver. That thing drivers a 3" screw into a stud like a knife through warm butter. Just make sure you use impact rated driving bits!

 

[vi edit]

if you can push your thumb through drywall without effort you are either one of the world's strongest men, or confused as to what drywall is.

I think he means you can push a screw through drywall with just your thumb. To which I would agree.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

if you can push your thumb through drywall without effort you are either one of the world's strongest men, or confused as to what drywall is.

I can push a screw through it... we were talking about tapping the screw and i said that i can push it through with my thumb.

Believe you me, it's not hard, it's actually quite easy. i bet even a twat like you could do it.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

I think he means you can push a screw through drywall with just your thumb. To which I would agree.

Smart people understand my posts.

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

I can push a screw through it... we were talking about tapping the screw and i said that i can push it through with my thumb.

Believe you me, it's not hard, it's actually quite easy. i bet even a twat like you could do it.

I misread your post. I'll still disagree about the no effort part, but yes, you can push a screw into sheetrock with your bare hand.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

I :heart; my impact driver. That thing drivers a 3" screw into a stud like a knife through warm butter. Just make sure you use impact rated driving bits!

Actually, sure, it helps having tools but if you have one good machine, you can buy shit for it that will do everything regarding drilling and driving any form of screws, even plugged or expanders.

I've got one corded which is a big fucker, it'll drill a hole in just about anything and can hammer fine through anything too, even granite if set to it, it's a Hilti, i've got one cordless drill, a DeWalt, it'll handle any type of drill or casette with two different chucks that are easy to change.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

I misread your post. I'll still disagree about the no effort part, but yes, you can push a screw into sheetrock with your bare hand.

Regular drywall, i can push it through with my nose, and yes, i have tried, left a mark which was awesome because my nieces birthday was the day after and yeah, i was still very red on the tip of my nose.

 

[bitt3n]

I ended up getting 5/64 and 7/64 drill bits. Now my problem is that the drill bits are too short (the 7/64 is 2.5 inches, and part of that goes in the chuck, whereas the screws are 3 inches) -- once I drill a pilot hole, I can get the screw in as far as the pilot hole goes, but no farther. I tried the lubricating the screw with soap as advised, but I still can't get it to go in any farther. The screws are going through the pine board easily, but once they hit the stud they start squeaking and finally they stop turning completely.

Strangely, I got the first screw I drove (back when I just put up the board like 2 weeks ago) to go in all the way, but the next 4 I tried all stopped moving with at least 1cm to go. I figured I'd take a couple of pictures in case that provides any useful information. This is what the board looks like now (most of the screws are just sticking out of the pine board, since I've only tried driving in about 4 different screws):

the surface I'm driving into appears to be a support for the roof of the building.

this is what my phillips bit looks like next to the deck screw I'm using:

the bit is getting kind of chewed up from getting banged against the screw head when the screw stops.

I guess my next step will be removing the board from the wall, and drilling pilot holes directly into the drywall, then putting the board back and driving the (now long enough) pilot holes.

It seems like it shouldn't be this complicated to do. Not sure why it's so hard. My leverage isn't great since I'm standing on a chair, but I'm applying considerable force while driving in the screws by pulling against the opposite side of the drywall as I drive in the screw.

 

[Mike Gayner]

That looks like the wrong bit for that screw IMO.

 

[bfdd]

JoS, oh sure you could push it through a bit too. Drywall isn't that hard.

 

[bitt3n]

That looks like the wrong bit for that screw IMO.

yeah I kind of figured it might be. It says PH1 on the side. Should be using PH2? ie http://www.acetoolonline.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BOS-TDDP2102&

 

[StageLeft]

good lord, you shouldn't need to predrill holes in drywall or wood studs for anything short of a lag bolt, and even that's questionable.

I like pilots for everything. A stud will easily split even with a fairly small screw if you don't pilot it.

FYI I have done a CRAP TON of drilling with a $30 Black and Decker drill I bought 9 years ago. Last summer drilling 1/2" bits 8 inches into wet pressure treated lumber on a hot day I just kept going and going and going and it started to gently smoke. Now it makes a bad sound when I use it (bearings?) but it still works and I still use it!

 

[DrPizza]

Smart people understand my posts.

Smarter people ignore your posts. He stated multiple times that he had located studs behind the drywall to drill into. You seem to have missed that (repeatedly.)

Anyway, OP, get a brand new #2 bit. If you're finding that it's not quite going all the way in, drill it in about half way, immediately back it out most of the way, immediately drill it in 3/4's of the way, immediately back it out, and immediately drive it home.

AND, if you have to run to the hardware store, forget about the #2 phillips bit. Get a square drive & some new 3" deck screws that take a square bit. You won't have problems with the bit then.

 

[Squisher]

That sure looks like a #1 phillips bit, but I'd have to see it real life. If it is a #2 it is torn up.

I agree with Doc, square drive is where it's at unless you're using a dimpler.