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Dual Subs ?

no they don't have to be, just like left and right speakers don't have to be the same.

ideally you do want them to be the same though so they will be producing the same output. i don't think i've ever seen someone run 2 different subs though, for car or home audio.
 
no they don't have to be, just like left and right speakers don't have to be the same.

ideally you do want them to be the same though so they will be producing the same output. i don't think i've ever seen someone run 2 different subs though, for car or home audio.
 
K thanks I just have A
receiver that has 2 out puts for subs cant afford to get the second as of yet but the room is 20 x 20 with a 10 ft celling and a very large opening in the rear so in the future I may get one.

Using a PB 2000 at this time.

Alos I said the heck with it and did somthing I dont uslay do and orered two Sierra 2s and a Horizon center.
Wanted some good speakers before I get to old and have to retire lol
 
K thanks I just have A
receiver that has 2 out puts for subs cant afford to get the second as of yet but the room is 20 x 20 with a 10 ft celling and a very large opening in the rear so in the future I may get one.

Using a PB 2000 at this time.

Alos I said the heck with it and did somthing I dont uslay do and orered two Sierra 2s and a Horizon center.
Wanted some good speakers before I get to old and have to retire lol

You need like 4 of those for that room :biggrin:
 
Two or more subs are generally preferred.

1. Lower distortion.

Assuming you don't use two to gain volume, though you may with a room that big, they would each be working less to produce the same level.

2. Better acoustic interaction with the room.

Not sure I can explain this well, but it has to do with the room modes and how they get excited. Having two or more and placing them properly in the room results in less excitation in one area, smoother all around. Assuming I understand that one correctly.

For best results, yes, they should be identical.
 
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Thanks I will have to wait some I spent more than I usaly do. Wanted somthing good for music and movies.
The speakers are a bit more than what I wanted to spend but the Ribon tweaters they use i saw nothing but good coments on them at the AVS forum and the Assend forum.
So the sub and other speakers like maybe towers for the front instead of book shelfs will have to wait.
 
If a shell fell near you, you should feel nausea. That is the SPL you should aim for :awe:

lol

but you are correct in that large of a space ~4000 CUFT more then 1 sub is a good idea. more SPL, lower & smoother responce. subs dont need to be pushed to insane levels

i have 3 physical subs (4 drivers) in a space that is under 2000 CUFT and i want more

as for outputs on the AVR even if you only have 1 "sub out" you can simply use a Y cable to add in a 2nd one. TBH most AVRs besides the top of the line models that have 2 sub outs are just using an internal Y cable. Very few of them treat the sub outs independently

also if using passive subs with pro amps you can generally run them in stereo mode or dual mono, so you only need 1 input for 2 outputs. Thats how i run mine
 
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no they don't have to be, just like left and right speakers don't have to be the same.

ideally you do want them to be the same though so they will be producing the same output. i don't think i've ever seen someone run 2 different subs though, for car or home audio.

😵 really? speakers are stereo devices, with both channels getting different streams, compared to subs which are dumb mono devices... there is no comparison.
I do agree that matching pairs work better, if they are different the effect will be no where near disastrous if one used different left and right speakers.

I have 4 subs, 8" Yamaha and 12" Sony in the front and two, one 10" DYI and one 10" JBL right behind the sofa, all bought used, total of less than $150. Together they provide a pretty good effect. ya ya, I know a single $500 SVS will be wayyyy better than what I have but I don't want to spend that kind of money.
 
Is it true that with 2 subs you want them to be in opposite corners in order to help equalize room pressure? The reason I ask is because I too want the power of 2 subs in my room. But the way the room is laid out I don't really have the ability to do that.

FYI, my current sub is the Rythmik LV12R and it's pretty amazing. I wonder if a 2nd would be like amazing squared.
 
Is it true that with 2 subs you want them to be in opposite corners in order to help equalize room pressure?

Not necessarily. If you're trying to even out response throughout the room, other placements might be better. However, if you're focusing on a specific listening spot, your idea might be right. There's a lot of trial and error at work when dealing with multiple subs. Here's an article that talks about the concept:

http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-setup/multiple-subwoofer-setup-calibration-1
 
Two subs can be bad. Most really don't have the listening room to support it.

Read about calibration and the sub crawl if you want to implement it. You should do all your tests with your 'best' sub first and then add the second.
 
Room calibration is almost required when running multiple subs but that's what Audyssey, YPAO, MCACC is for. If you don't have that with your receiver you can still get your room calibrated with a minidsp box like this one.

http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4

That little box can take 4 subs (2 per channel) so you can integrate it into your HT. You will need a measurement mic which you can add for $175 total. Doesn't matter if you have a *.1 or *.2 receiver.
 
I use two old Kenwood Trip 7's on a separate amp myself and have them on opposite sides of the room here and they work well off a y splitter from the main amp.

The old JVC's there only have the original sub's in em, they were modified long ago.

I personally do love the Pioneer I stuck in the middle after playing with it awhile, didn't like it a lot at first but after a few things I love it now.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882117404

I's been needing something there awhile anyways that was better than I had.

For being 35 years old, the old Trip 7s just keep pumping out good sound.

My big ass desk is usually resonating most nights, but the Tower is heavy so I guess doesn't bother it much.

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no they don't have to be, just like left and right speakers don't have to be the same.

ideally you do want them to be the same though so they will be producing the same output. i don't think i've ever seen someone run 2 different subs though, for car or home audio.

I have seen plenty of people running different subs, but you need to do it properly. Typically in a multi-sub setup where there are different subs, either the receiver has multiple sub outputs which send different frequency ranges to the different subs (i.e. one sub is a 8" or 10" sub with fast response for the higher frequencies of the low frequency response, and the other sub(s) is a 15" or 18" sub that handles the real low bass). If you do not have a receiver/pre-processor that handles the multiple sub output ranges, an external crossover is used to perform the same thing to split the overall frequency response between the multiple subs.

LFE response on most setups can easily still be within the human voice range. As such, the benefits of having a smaller sealed 8" or 10" sub which has extremely fast, accurate response can drastically improve the sound quality of your speaker setup, and using the larger 15" and larger to simply handle the 40 Hz and lower response will keep the smaller sealed sub from being overly stressed attempting to give you the boom that you want out of explosions and other LFE effects in movies.


Once you are running multiple subs, you do need to pay a lot of attention to distances and phase. Most crossovers act over a two octave range where the signal overlaps between the multiple devices (i.e. a 80 Hz crossover means that frequencies between 40Hz and 160 Hz are played on both devices typically with a 6 to 8 db drop curve per octave, so that at 80 Hz both devices are playing at the same at negative 6 to negative 8 db from the reference level of the signal so that the combined output of both speakers is reference level of the signal (two speakers playing the same thing will typically produce a 6 to 8 db boost to the level of the combined output). Due to this combining of the waveforms to generate the proper output levels, placement of the subs should ideally be equi-distant from the listening position(s) and the phase set perfectly between them to account for differences in length of speaker wire, processing/response time, and differences in angle/elevation of the different sub's woofers in relation to the ears listening to them. The last thing you want to have happen is destructive interference from the waves being out of phase with each other when they reach the ear listening to the sound. At this point, it is highly recommended that you consult with professionals for proper setup and design.
 
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Look at multi-subs as a solution to "taming the room". The key to a great sounding system is actually controlling the way the sound interacts with the room. This is why DSP's have become so popular.
 
no they don't have to be, just like left and right speakers don't have to be the same.

ideally you do want them to be the same though so they will be producing the same output. i don't think i've ever seen someone run 2 different subs though, for car or home audio.

Eh people do but well ike you said, it's just harder to blend them together. The people I do see doing this online also have measuring kits to check the frequency response.

Thanks I will have to wait some I spent more than I usaly do. Wanted somthing good for music and movies.
The speakers are a bit more than what I wanted to spend but the Ribon tweaters they use i saw nothing but good coments on them at the AVS forum and the Assend forum.
So the sub and other speakers like maybe towers for the front instead of book shelfs will have to wait.


Ribbon Tweeters are great sounding but there are drawbacks. If you're trying to hit reference levels of volume then it takes a VERY expensive ribbon tweeter. From what I understand is Ribbon Tweeters sound good but if you want really high SPLs then you'll have to give up the ribbon tweeter sound for a waveguide/horn design.

lol

but you are correct in that large of a space ~4000 CUFT more then 1 sub is a good idea. more SPL, lower & smoother responce. subs dont need to be pushed to insane levels

i have 3 physical subs (4 drivers) in a space that is under 2000 CUFT and i want more

as for outputs on the AVR even if you only have 1 "sub out" you can simply use a Y cable to add in a 2nd one. TBH most AVRs besides the top of the line models that have 2 sub outs are just using an internal Y cable. Very few of them treat the sub outs independently

also if using passive subs with pro amps you can generally run them in stereo mode or dual mono, so you only need 1 input for 2 outputs. Thats how i run mine

:sigh:
People just don't understand that the more subs you have the better! You can't have enough lol. So hard to explain this to a nonenthusiast. My Dayton Ultimax 15 just shipped by the way man. I can't wait!
 
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For what you get with the Sierra-2 the price is actually super competitive. Those RAAL and Seas drivers are not cheap. They are pretty damn close to what you would pay if you DIY them.

Did you get the Horizon center because you are getting the Towers later on? Reason I ask is because the Horizon center is a 3-way design with a dedicated mid driver while the bookshelf is a 2-way. Ascend does have a Sierra-2 center that matches the bookshelves.
 
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If my order confirmation is correct on parts express, they charged me for 1 sub, and shipped me 2 subs. So I'll let you know how my dual subs works out OP tomorrow if I actually get two lol.
 
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