DSLR cameras - full frame sensor vs. crop sensor

[randomrogue]

I don't really have one, but I can't imagine wanting to spend more than $1000 total on camera and lens(es) - I can always upgrade to a better camera body later on, once I get technically savvy.

A thousand dollar budget really limits me to crop sensors DSLRs, doesn't it? Honestly, if I can "get by" with a 1.6 crop factor with appropriate lenses, I don't really care (for the time being). I can really only know through experience how limiting the crop factor is, and that will come through owning and using the camera.

Just wondering though: with ALL cameras, WYSIWYG, right? I mean, it's not going to crop what I see in the viewfinder, is it? I understand the image presented by the viewfinder as being "already cropped".

You don't have a choice but to get a budget crop camera and some lenses. Get good lenses.

The difference between crop and full frame would not be that apparent to you. The things most noticeable are getting wider shots if you invest in a UWA lens and less noise. With your budget and for your use you'll be just fine buying a good lens (not sure which mm), a tripod, and a crop camera.

 

[blastingcap]

Full frame is unnecessary for architecture photos. FF's main advantages are what, better high ISO? Irrelevant when you put cameras on tripods and allow the exposure to do whatever it wants. DoF is also not helpful for architecture shots. More megapixels helps only when printing HUGE prints and some DX cameras go up to 24MP which is plenty. Even the wideangle thing is overblown; there exist some excellent ultrawideangle lenses for DX mounts like the Sigma 8-16, and various 10-2x lenses.

 

[randomrogue]

The Sigma 8-16 has a lot of distortion and is a slow lens.

 

[NAC]

The Sigma 8-16 is $600. I'm not sure if that is worth getting on your budget of $1000. You wont be able to get a full frame camera for that much, unless you get a quite old one. A new or newish crop sensor is probably the way to go.

 

[Turbonium]

I'm likely going to pick up a new T3i with a basic 18-55mm lens, for around $550. Once I get a feel for what I can and can't do with that lens, I'll look into a wide angle lens.

Thanks for your replies.

 

[elitejp]

And that isnt a bad setup. And it keeps some money in your pocket until you decide on what you need. Which is never a bad idea.
My only current issue with canon currently is that Nikon and Sony have better sensors and in post processing you can bring back the colors or the light back into the shadow areas of the picture. So with nikon and sony if your picture highlights are correctly exposed but that caused the shadows to be too dark, these two camera systems do alot better in lightening the shadows to a better level when doing post processing. With Canon when you try to do the same thing you will probably have banding and excess noise in the shadows. Sony and Nikon have been making great progress in this area while Canon has been in a standstill for the last 4 years. Nikons sensors (made by sony) would definitely serve you better.

Like said earlier I was hoping some people from Nikon or Sony could offer some insight because im not terribly familiar with what camera models would best suit your shooting style. But heres a recommendation, take a look at what your spending on the canon setup and see what Nikon and Sony offer for that price range. All great companies to buy into.


edit: and dont be scared to buy used....these cameras can be used a long long time before showing any types of problems. Normally if its good out of the box it will be good forever.

 

[Turbonium]

Again, thanks for your input, but I already picked up the T3i (the battery is charging as I type this).

It's good to hear that they last a long time, as I didn't get an extended warranty (I figured it was more of a cash grab than anything else).

 

[elitejp]

Im sure you will enjoy it

 

[blastingcap]

The Sigma 8-16 has a lot of distortion and is a slow lens.

I like how you selectively addressed just one tiny part of my post.

So long as distortion can be corrected w/o losing too much resolution, that may be okay. And there are plenty of 10-2x and 11-xx lenses that could be used as well, not just the Sigma 8-16.

Further, the slowness of the lens matters not--something I already addressed in my post. Arch shots when on tripods = do not give a damn what the shutter speed is.

 

[randomrogue]

Yes very true. You're right. The distortion is a bit too heavy for my taste though at the low focal lengths. When looking at DX UWA lenses I felt the 10mm and above were better. Using a Tokina 16-28mm f2.8 though on my D600 really blows them away. Holy crap it's awesome.

 

[SecurityTheatre]

I use my 17mm focal length on a full frame body for architecture, and when you're trying to get "true to life" representations like you would sell to a real estate broker, it's absolutely the right focal length.

When you want eye-popping abstraction (like the spiral staircase I posted), I feel the 17mm isn't quite wide enough on a full-frame and would shoot for 14-15mm. At that range, I feel like that 3mm changes things notably.

But regardless, for the OP, the Ti3 is perfectly fine. The 18-55 lens is basically just your basic kit lens. I works well for most things, but isn't terribly great at any one thing.

You won't get the wide angle to get those professional "eye popping" perspective shots. You also won't get the length for amazing subject compression, nor do you have much of a portrait lens with professional-looking shallow DoF and a nice "blurred" background, but it's far better at all of those things than any point-and-shoot could ever be and can give you a limited taste of each.

If you do go for more lenses, I suggest the 10-20mm range, and a 30/50mm f/1.8 as your next two.

Also, a tripod is somewhat important and, please don't spend $35 on one. We've had a number of threads in this forum alone with people trying to troubleshoot their poor landscape and architectural photos and it was narrowed down to the $35 tripod literally shaking in the wind during the exposure. Just make sure you get one that's very sturdy, has metal plates and solid clasps. I'm not going to say you must spend $400 (that's a mid-range price), but just make sure you do some research.

Good luck!