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DrPizza remodels his kitchen

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Dr Pizza I don;t think you understand what will happen when you flush the roof ceiling with that little insulation. Yea you might have only had a R-11 beofre but you also had a cavity above that slowed it down a little as well, that and the drywall (which does help a little).
Look at eBay or any other place and use some closed cell foam insulation. Will increase your R factor in the same area. You only need to use it for the roof line not all.



As for mask I agree the cheap paper one swill fog up and don;t seal real well. Get this...

Great Mask

This mask is very light and doe not cause fogging and also blocks out much more then the paper ones. I have 2 mask 1 for spraying and other bad stuff and one for woodworking/house work and this is it. Cheap and the replacment filters are also cheap.
 
GJ Pizza! Looks like fun. That is on par with what I have going on now. Turning my basement family room/bar/half bath into a pool room/bar.
 
Got more done today. Skylights are installed; if only temporary to last 2 or 3 years until I re-roof the house. I finished framing for the new window (slightly larger window & moved it over a couple feet) and got that all flashed & installed, etc. 90% of the wiring is done, just have to run a circuit for the microwave, a circuit for the dishwasher, a circuit for the ovens, and drop 2 wires from the first counter outlet into the basement to the breaker box. I'll put in the rest of the outlets and switches after I get the drywall up.

Next is picking out the right color stain & getting lots of tongue and groove for the ceiling. Of course, I'll stain the boards & coat them with urethane before I install them. 😀 I get to buy an air nailer.
 
2 questions.

Did you double up the 2x4s (or 2x6s) around the window frames to make sure that it doesn't have a chance to wrap that lead to leakage later in time?

Are those pot lights rated for direct contact with insulations?

 
1: no. I'm thinking that by "wrap" you mean "warp", and nothing's warping there. To match the thickness of the plank sheathing on the house, plus the thickness of the old clapboard siding under the vinyl siding, I had to use 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood. It's cabinet grade plywood, each is 11 plies thick. The plywood adds a ton of structural integrity to that wall, which isn't load bearing.

2: absolutely. I already had the insulation up when I discovered the lights that my wife wanted weren't rated for direct contact with insulation. So, I had to take the insulation down, get those cans, install them, and put the insulation back up. I've seen what happens when you have a non-contact light fixture surrounded by insulation - that's what I removed from the kitchen ceiling. 6" of the wiring had no plastic coating left on it & the 2x6 that the light was adjacent to was charred. Since we've always had a CFL in that socket, it was like that before we moved in.

Oh, and the ceiling lights are CFL's (75W equivalent) to further minimize problems from heat.
 
Originally posted by: DrPizza
1: no. I'm thinking that by "wrap" you mean "warp", and nothing's warping there. To match the thickness of the plank sheathing on the house, plus the thickness of the old clapboard siding under the vinyl siding, I had to use 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood. It's cabinet grade plywood, each is 11 plies thick. The plywood adds a ton of structural integrity to that wall, which isn't load bearing.

2: absolutely. I already had the insulation up when I discovered the lights that my wife wanted weren't rated for direct contact with insulation. So, I had to take the insulation down, get those cans, install them, and put the insulation back up. I've seen what happens when you have a non-contact light fixture surrounded by insulation - that's what I removed from the kitchen ceiling. 6" of the wiring had no plastic coating left on it & the 2x6 that the light was adjacent to was charred. Since we've always had a CFL in that socket, it was like that before we moved in.

Oh, and the ceiling lights are CFL's (75W equivalent) to further minimize problems from heat.
Click to expand...
Awesome, and I hope that you install vents above the insulation so that the roof can breath, and the wife going to love it once the reno is done with taller ceiling.

PS. Are you goin to have a island with a stove?
If so, it is best to install the vent now befor the ceiling is finish.
 
Originally posted by: DrPizza
2: absolutely. I already had the insulation up when I discovered the lights that my wife wanted weren't rated for direct contact with insulation. So, I had to take the insulation down, get those cans, install them, and put the insulation back up. I've seen what happens when you have a non-contact light fixture surrounded by insulation - that's what I removed from the kitchen ceiling. 6" of the wiring had no plastic coating left on it & the 2x6 that the light was adjacent to was charred. Since we've always had a CFL in that socket, it was like that before we moved in.
Click to expand...

Imagine my joy when I realized the lights in the cathedral ceilings in my living room and master bedroom weren't. :|

I missed. The House Inspector I paid for missed it.

Life is a never ending learning process.

 
Originally posted by: iGas
Awesome, and I hope that you install vents above the insulation so that the roof can breath, and the wife going to love it once the reno is done with taller ceiling.

PS. Are you goin to have a island with a stove?
If so, it is best to install the vent now befor the ceiling is finish.
Click to expand...

Yes, I've got foam baffles giving the roof about an inch of breathing space.
 
Originally posted by: Greenman
What did you do to keep the walls from spreading when you removed the ceiling joists?
Click to expand...

A. Supporting wall to the roof, not allowing it to come down.
B. Both sides of the house have had additions added to them, i.e. that roof is sandwiched between two other sections of the house.
 
Originally posted by: DrPizza
Originally posted by: Greenman
What did you do to keep the walls from spreading when you removed the ceiling joists?
Click to expand...

A. Supporting wall to the roof, not allowing it to come down.
B. Both sides of the house have had additions added to them, i.e. that roof is sandwiched between two other sections of the house.
Click to expand...

That should hold.

I once fixed a sagging roof that had driven the walls seven inches out of plumb. What a bitch of a job that was.
 
Originally posted by: Greenman
Originally posted by: DrPizza
Originally posted by: Greenman
What did you do to keep the walls from spreading when you removed the ceiling joists?
Click to expand...

A. Supporting wall to the roof, not allowing it to come down.
B. Both sides of the house have had additions added to them, i.e. that roof is sandwiched between two other sections of the house.
Click to expand...

That should hold.

I once fixed a sagging roof that had driven the walls seven inches out of plumb. What a bitch of a job that was.
Click to expand...

Ouch. Remodeling error? Or problem that existed from the start? You'd love how thick that asphalt roofing is... one of the skylights had NINE thicknesses of shingles on it (4 layers, plus apparently a piece of rolled roofing patching a section. All the original roofing from when the house was built (60 years ago?), and every layer since. Of course, other sections of roof don't have as many layers. Originally, the house was 2 bedroom, kitchen, bath, dining/living room. Then a larger living room was added on. Then a 1 1/2 car garage was put up next to the house. Then, 2 bedrooms were added on. Following that, a one car garage was added to the 1 1/2 car garage. Then, a sun room/ Florida room was added on, connecting the kitchen to the garage.

One of these days, if I get really bored, the porch is going to be extended and wrapped around the side of the house 🙂 But not til the 1 1/2 garage is converted to my home theater.
 
It was a huge error. The ridge ran the length of the kitchen and family room, about 32'. It was a vaulted ceiling framed out of 2x10's. The ridge was supposed to be bearing, but it was only a 2x12 and in three pieces. We had to put a new glue-lam ridge beam in from the bottom side. It was miserable.
You're roofing issue is interesting, we're not allowed to re-roof that way on the left coast. It all has to be removed down to the sheathing, no more than one layer is allowed.
 
Originally posted by: Greenman
It was a huge error. The ridge ran the length of the kitchen and family room, about 32'. It was a vaulted ceiling framed out of 2x10's. The ridge was supposed to be bearing, but it was only a 2x12 and in three pieces. We had to put a new glue-lam ridge beam in from the bottom side. It was miserable.
You're roofing issue is interesting, we're not allowed to re-roof that way on the left coast. It all has to be removed down to the sheathing, no more than one layer is allowed.
Click to expand...

We can do 2 layers here in WI. No more though.
 
Perfect time to add in a pizza oven...

And pretty sure we (WI) can do 3 layers total. 2 old and 1 new on top. But I haven't looked into that for a while so I could be off by one.
 
Originally posted by: Kelemvor
Perfect time to add in a pizza oven...

And pretty sure we (WI) can do 3 layers total. 2 old and 1 new on top. But I haven't looked into that for a while so I could be off by one.
Click to expand...

Maybe it varies by county then. I just did a remodel, had 2 layers and had to do a complete tear down.
 
Originally posted by: Homerboy
Originally posted by: Kelemvor
Perfect time to add in a pizza oven...

And pretty sure we (WI) can do 3 layers total. 2 old and 1 new on top. But I haven't looked into that for a while so I could be off by one.
Click to expand...

Maybe it varies by county then. I just did a remodel, had 2 layers and had to do a complete tear down.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing too. Someone posted that it was 2 layers in NY, but I had always thought it was 3 layers. However, I can't see that tearing off a layer is really that big a deal.

The more I think about it, and since each layer of shingles was a different color, I believe that each time they did an addition on the house, as they shingled the addition, they shingled the entire house to keep the color consistent. My wife and I are still contemplating going with a steel roof eventually. I've installed one, and it wasn't too tough of a job. Well, except for the part where I was handing up pieces of roofing to my wife, one slipped out of her hand, and I foolishly tried to catch it. (For anyone who doesn't know better, wear good thick leather gloves while handling steel roofing. Imagine the worst paper cut of your life - to the bone.)
 
Updated the OP (finally)

Almost done; should be able to finish with about 2 day's worth of work.
 
Looking good.

Do those dual-window fans work well? I thought about getting one for my studio apartment to help cool it on the hot days, but settled for a 20" box fan instead to place in the window (probably going to get a second box fan for an adjacent window for dual-box fan power).

Edit:
What's up with the double oven? Just for having two things cook at different temperatures? Never seen that before.
 
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