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Drop ceiling or drywall?

Squisher

Squisher

Lifer
Yeah, I know everyone wants drywall on their basement ceiling, but I'm wondering if I wouldn't have to put too many access panels in this ceiling with all the "stuff" I need access to. Looks like I'll have to put in seven 6"X9" panels and five 14"X14" panels in a 18'X27' basement area. What do you think? Here are a couple of pics:

2ry1y6x.jpg

334nj2f.jpg
 
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For a basement, I'd use a drop ceiling. It's easier, and it's a basement. You could get creative with panels to spiff it up a little.
 
You can get some really nice ceiling tiles. I would go with drop ceiling if you have that many access panels. Tegular tiles (reveal edge) are really nice if done properly. Would you be installing them yourself or having a contractor do it for you?
 
DaTT said:
You can get some really nice ceiling tiles. I would go with drop ceiling if you have that many access panels. Tegular tiles (reveal edge) are really nice if done properly. Would you be installing them yourself or having a contractor do it for you?
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I'll be doing it myself.
 
You could also consider tongue and groove pine. Where you would need to access those things, take the tongue off the wood and rather than toenailing the wood up, you could anchor it to the joists with a few nicer wood screws.

Hmmm, or instead of the tongue, take off the bottom of the groove; then the overlap would look the same, but the piece would be able to pivot out of place.
DSC03432.JPG


I don't particularly care for that style in this image, but it should give you another option to think about. (A lot of the wood is "reversible" - the opposite side of in this photo could be the visible side & would be the full width of the planks.) If you do decide to look into going that route, be aware that the box stores (Home Depot, Lowes) are a hell of a lot more expensive for tongue and groove vs. lumberyards. We did a vaulted ceiling in our house and found that an 8' section at HD was $7.99, while a 14 foot section at the lumberyard was under $4.25. (I used 14' pieces so that I could span the width with one piece & not have any butt joints.) Coverage is 5 1/8" wide (on the stuff I have.) Do-it-yourself installation with one person is a hell of a lot easier and quicker than either drywall or a drop ceiling. A quick back of the napkin calculation shows that 2 years ago, it worked out to less than $1 per sq foot. I don't mind finishing drywall, but I hate finishing drywall on a ceiling. Recessed lighting was a pita at first, but I learned to simply use a template and piece of scrap tongue and groove. Mark the distance to the edge of the light from the edge of the board, and the distance to the edge of the light from the previous board. Not too hard to position the template, draw a circle , and use a jig saw to cut it out perfectly.
 
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If you plan on doing reveal edge tiles, PM me and I will give you a quick easy lesson as they are not installed the same as regular lay in flat tiles....unless you have done them before then disregard this message altogether.
 
DrPizza said:
You could also consider tongue and groove pine. Where you would need to access those things, take the tongue off the wood and rather than toenailing the wood up, you could anchor it to the joists with a few nicer wood screws.

Hmmm, or instead of the tongue, take off the bottom of the groove; then the overlap would look the same, but the piece would be able to pivot out of place.
*snip*

I don't particularly care for that style in this image, but it should give you another option to think about. (A lot of the wood is "reversible" - the opposite side of in this photo could be the visible side & would be the full width of the planks.) If you do decide to look into going that route, be aware that the box stores (Home Depot, Lowes) are a hell of a lot more expensive for tongue and groove vs. lumberyards. We did a vaulted ceiling in our house and found that an 8' section at HD was $7.99, while a 14 foot section at the lumberyard was under $4.25. Coverage is 5 1/8" wide (on the stuff I have.) Do-it-yourself installation with one person is a hell of a lot easier and quicker than either drywall or a drop ceiling. A quick back of the napkin calculation shows that 2 years ago, it worked out to less than $1 per sq foot. I don't mind finishing drywall, but I hate finishing drywall on a ceiling.
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Hmmm. That's interesting. I don't have a problem finishing ceilings. I own my own drywall lift.


(oops, meant to quote and clicked edit)
 
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Squisher said:
Hmmm. That's interesting. I don't have a problem finishing ceilings. I own my own drywall lift.
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I just hate working over my head for long periods of time - sore neck. re: drywall lift - I've done ceilings with and without one. However, after using one, I've never done drywall on another ceiling without one, and probably never will. They make it sooooo much easier to hang the drywall, especially if you're working alone.
 
Word of advice:

In a basement and any other part of a house, it is illegal to put electrical junction boxes where they are not accessible. Such as inside a wall or ceiling. Also in a basement you need access to any water pipes or shut off valves which will be up there. My advice is to use a drop ceiling.
 
bruceb said:
Word of advice:

In a basement and any other part of a house, it is illegal to put electrical junction boxes where they are not accessible. Such as inside a wall or ceiling. Also in a basement you need access to any water pipes or shut off valves which will be up there. My advice is to use a drop ceiling.
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However, it is allowable if you give access.

http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-34055-6x.../dp/B000DZGM2C

ez_access_II.jpg



arkcom said:
Why is your wife determining what can or can't go into the man cave? There is a reason for the name "man cave."
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Well, I do feel a little guilty when I start talking about spending $3K-$3.5K on myself. Besides, she's right. I need a ceiling.
 
Basements need access, access, access. Yah right, put drywall under the most potential water leak in your house.
 
WHAMPOM said:
Basements need access, access, access. Yah right, put drywall under the most potential water leak in your house.
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Get pipe-bursting insurance. I have it.

I've never seen a nice drop ceiling. They can look ok but nobody has ever had a drop ceiling in a basement that looks as nice as drywall. I know of people who've had drywall for years and been fine. Sure, access is limited, but you don't have a drop ceiling above your first floor and the lack of access seems ok there. Also, it's not the end of the world if you need to replace a few sheets down the line.

You will need multiple access panels, though, for all the sewer clean outs and any electric junction boxes.

If done right you'll get more height out of drywall. You're going to have to drywall around certain ducts anyway.
 
Well, people are making great arguments against drywall and against a drop ceilling.
Drywall: pro - greater height of ceiling
Cons - a lot more work to make things accessible above the ceiling

Drop ceiling:
pro- easier to get at things above the ceiling
con- butt ass ugly

tongue and groove, with occasional strips screwed into place, rather than toenailed in

pros: not ugly, fairly easy access to above the ceiling - easy to run cables later, same height as drywall, quicker installation than either drywall or a drop ceiling, cheaper than a drop ceiling; probably cheaper than drywall once you factor in the tape, mud, sandpaper, primer, paint, and access panels.
cons:??
 
Something else to consider is the work needed to put drywall in that basement. You are going to have to essentially frame in a whole ceiling to support it because your duct work drops below the joist. Drop ceiling you can just screw in hangers and let is float.
 
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