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Drilling perpendicular holes

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Originally posted by: Tiamat
Hey, thanks guys for the responses. The ceiling is pretty solid, certainly not sheetrock. I dunno if I need "perfectly" perpendicular. I am in the process of buying some acoustical panels which are either 18 lbs or 28lbs each. They will be hanging from wire that has to be secured to the ceiling, probably by some D-ring + Screw type things. I don't mind paying 80$ for a hammer drill if that is what it costs, but I do need to buy some bits.

I figured i needed a "jig" because I'm not very handy (last time I used power tools was in technology class in junior high school about a decade ago :laugh🙂 and I figured it would help esp because the ceiling drilling would be an awkward position.

Basically, the ceiling and floors are heavy/thick enough so that you cannot hear people walking above you. The walls are sheetrock and should be easy to drill through.


Can a hammer drill be used for normal drilling?
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28 pounds each? How big are these panels? I'd think long and hard about this, if your anchor system fails, one of those panels will do some serious damage to your head. Is there a track assembly you hang then install the panels?

You need to know what the anchors are before you start drilling holes, and you need to verify that they will hold the load you're putting on them. The plastic expansion anchors aren't made for tension loads, you're going to have to use a wedge anchor of some sort.
 
Thanks all. The acoustic panels have metal frame, so they are 18 lbs or 28 lbs depending on how expensive I want to pay for the bass traps. I'll probably go for 18 lbs as it would be easier to set up just by myself without anybody helping me.

For reference, they will be RealTraps mini or corner mondo traps. They will be strattling the wall/ceiling bi-corners forming a triangular shape. I believe they will have 2 ceiling anchor points and two wall anchor points.
 
Years ago we had something made by black & decker that attached to a drill for drilling right angles but haven't seen anything in a long time. I'd like to find something portable and reliable for this as well.

quick search yielded this and this
 
Originally posted by: jjsole
Years ago we had something made by black & decker that attached to a drill for drilling right angles but haven't seen anything in a long time. I'd like to find something portable and reliable for this as well.

quick search yielded this and this
Click to expand...

From what I have read, it seems these devices are only "needed" for things very sensitive to angle, like hanging doors. Otherwise, they are somewhat pricy for what they are and at the same time, I am not convinced they have enough contact area to afford a perfect perpendicular stage setup (they might wobble a little). I think a couple reviewers on amazon said something to the like for one of the similar devices.
 
Originally posted by: silverpig
Originally posted by: feralkid
Originally posted by: Kwatt
You can use a small level attached to the drill with "200 mph tape".
If you don't have a hammer drill and are drilling more than 2-3 holes you are going to spend a lot of time and bits.
You need masonry bits. Regular bits melt almost instantly.

Are you sure it is cement or is it concrete? If it is concrete and you hit rock a standard drill is useless.


It is not hard drilling close to square. When I install "Q" rated anchors I just eyeball it unless I cannot get a good eyesight on the drill. "Q" anchors are tested and must be within 5 degrees. Or they must be replaced.

..
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What?

😕
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Cement is one component of concrete. It's not usually used by itself.

Most concrete is a mix of cement + sand + rocks (think sidewalk). Some concrete (which he's referring to as cement) is just cement + sand.
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However, the finished product is not called "cement"; hence my incredulity.

 
Originally posted by: Tiamat
Originally posted by: jjsole
Years ago we had something made by black & decker that attached to a drill for drilling right angles but haven't seen anything in a long time. I'd like to find something portable and reliable for this as well.

quick search yielded this and this
Click to expand...

From what I have read, it seems these devices are only "needed" for things very sensitive to angle, like hanging doors. Otherwise, they are somewhat pricy for what they are and at the same time, I am not convinced they have enough contact area to afford a perfect perpendicular stage setup (they might wobble a little). I think a couple reviewers on amazon said something to the like for one of the similar devices.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I came across those in my quest a month ago and after reading a bunch of reviews on different sites, I seemed like they weren't even good enough at staying perfectly square to justify buying one.
 
If I needed a hammer drill I'd get one at my local lending library, free. Never used one, don't even know what they do. I have masonry bits and a decent 3/8" Craftsman AC drill I've had for 30 years (but I usually reach for cordless when I need a drill).
 
Originally posted by: Tiamat
I'll keep the Tapcon screws in mind.

Also, is this hammer drill OK?

Text

I might consider renting the hammer drill. I wouldn't mind owning one either though.

For the sheet rock, it was recommended to use Molly bolts. I don't understand why Lowes doesnt have molly bolts?
Click to expand...

that looks like an impact drill ... but a true hammer drill

http://www.bosch-pt.com.au/bop...=101344&object_id=5747

Go to the above link for a proper hammer drill.



The drill you posted (the impact drill) is good for small fixings in concrete but to do proper things like cut core holes up to 140mm you need the proper hammer drill.


Edit: And its a real bitch when you hit rio bar
Another Edit: Try and stick with bosch they are the best drills i have used
 
Originally posted by: Sea Moose
Originally posted by: Tiamat
I'll keep the Tapcon screws in mind.

Also, is this hammer drill OK?

Text

I might consider renting the hammer drill. I wouldn't mind owning one either though.

For the sheet rock, it was recommended to use Molly bolts. I don't understand why Lowes doesnt have molly bolts?
Click to expand...

that looks like an impact drill ... but a true hammer drill

http://www.bosch-pt.com.au/bop...=101344&object_id=5747

Go to the above link for a proper hammer drill.



The drill you posted (the impact drill) is good for small fixings in concrete but to do proper things like cut core holes up to 140mm you need the proper hammer drill.


Edit: And its a real bitch when you hit rio bar
Another Edit: Try and stick with bosch they are the best drills i have used
Click to expand...
I don't know if that's what you call them in Oz, but what Tiamat is looking at is a true hammer drill and what you've linked to is a rotary hammer, which is different.
 
If the ceiling in question is lathe and plaster, not concrete, a hammer drill or rotary hammer is going to do more damage than good by vibrating the plaster loose from the lathe. If it is just plaster use a regular drill with a masonry bit. It will go through it like butter. If you hit wood or metal lathe behind the plaster switch to a regular twist drill to finish the hole.

I can't imagine having a concrete ceiling unless it's an industrial building.
 
Originally posted by: HappyPuppy
If the ceiling in question is lathe and plaster, not concrete, a hammer drill or rotary hammer is going to do more damage than good by vibrating the plaster loose from the lathe. If it is just plaster use a regular drill with a masonry bit. It will go through it like butter. If you hit wood or metal lathe behind the plaster switch to a regular twist drill to finish the hole.

I can't imagine having a concrete ceiling unless it's an industrial building.
Click to expand...

a lot of modern condo high rises are concrete structure...
 
Originally posted by: MikeyIs4Dcats
Originally posted by: HappyPuppy
If the ceiling in question is lathe and plaster, not concrete, a hammer drill or rotary hammer is going to do more damage than good by vibrating the plaster loose from the lathe. If it is just plaster use a regular drill with a masonry bit. It will go through it like butter. If you hit wood or metal lathe behind the plaster switch to a regular twist drill to finish the hole.

I can't imagine having a concrete ceiling unless it's an industrial building.
Click to expand...

a lot of modern condo high rises are concrete structure...
Click to expand...




Point taken, unfortunately we don't know what kind of structure the OP lives in.
 
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