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Does the exposure look ok on this?

Yeah - it is still a bit on the dark side. A fill flash would have helped. This any better?

Pic
 
The subject is underexposed, but the whole scene was better exposed in the original, since in the processed version you're blowing out the highlights in the background. This is why you should use flash outdoors in daylight, especially when shooting portraits.
 
camera metered off the shirt, which is white and will meter high. some exposure compensation or fill flash was needed for the shot. if the light is consistent you can set the camera manually.

are there any cameras where you can set the EV and then shift up and down using a wheel? that would be awesome. maybe mine can and i just don't know about it.
 
Originally posted by: ElFenix
camera metered off the shirt, which is white and will meter high. some exposure compensation or fill flash was needed for the shot. if the light is consistent you can set the camera manually.

are there any cameras where you can set the EV and then shift up and down using a wheel? that would be awesome. maybe mine can and i just don't know about it.
Click to expand...

You mean the exposure compensation?

I know my Nikon D70, D200, and EOS 40D all have this ability. Most cameras with 2 control wheels should be able to do this. You simply rotate one of the command wheels to change exposure compensatoin on the fly. You can even set it so that a simple turn of the wheel (without any button pressing) changes the compensation for quick adjustments.

I leave my 40D in Aperture Priority most of the time. In Av mode, the main command dial changes the aperture, while the rear dial directly changes the exposure compensation (or flash exposure compensation with a button press). Very easy to get used to.
 
Originally posted by: 996GT2
Originally posted by: ElFenix
camera metered off the shirt, which is white and will meter high. some exposure compensation or fill flash was needed for the shot. if the light is consistent you can set the camera manually.

are there any cameras where you can set the EV and then shift up and down using a wheel? that would be awesome. maybe mine can and i just don't know about it.
Click to expand...

You mean the exposure compensation?

I know my Nikon D70, D200, and EOS 40D all have this ability. Most cameras with 2 control wheels should be able to do this. You simply rotate one of the command wheels to change exposure compensatoin on the fly. You can even set it so that a simple turn of the wheel (without any button pressing) changes the compensation for quick adjustments.

I leave my 40D in Aperture Priority most of the time. In Av mode, the main command dial changes the aperture, while the rear dial directly changes the exposure compensation (or flash exposure compensation with a button press). Very easy to get used to.
Click to expand...

Even the original Canon DRebel 300D does this. Instead of a large wheel, you press a +/- button, then move the finger wheel. Also does bracketing. I would imagine all modern DSLR should have such a feature.
 
Why not just use M mode and expose +2/3 or +1 off a white plaid shirt? I've never understood the point of Av and Tv modes..they just seem lazy.
 
Originally posted by: angry hampster
Why not just use M mode and expose +2/3 or +1 off a white plaid shirt? I've never understood the point of Av and Tv modes..they just seem lazy.
Click to expand...

Because those modes accomplish the same thing only making it easier. A camera with good matrix metering will usually expose as well as anyone proficient in the zone system, only 1000 times quicker. In good lighting, I usually use P mode, and just dial in some +/- exposure compensation when needed. For some cases Av or Tv are necessary. M is mostly for "purists", like those who insist on a stick shift manual transmission in a car when a SMG will shift quicker than a human ever could...
 
Originally posted by: munky
Originally posted by: angry hampster
Why not just use M mode and expose +2/3 or +1 off a white plaid shirt? I've never understood the point of Av and Tv modes..they just seem lazy.
Click to expand...

Because those modes accomplish the same thing only making it easier. A camera with good matrix metering will usually expose as well as anyone proficient in the zone system, only 1000 times quicker. In good lighting, I usually use P mode, and just dial in some +/- exposure compensation when needed. For some cases Av or Tv are necessary. M is mostly for "purists", like those who insist on a stick shift manual transmission in a car when a SMG will shift quicker than a human ever could...
Click to expand...

I wouldn't consider myself a purist, but I trust myself more than my camera.
 
Originally posted by: munky
Originally posted by: angry hampster
Why not just use M mode and expose +2/3 or +1 off a white plaid shirt? I've never understood the point of Av and Tv modes..they just seem lazy.
Click to expand...

Because those modes accomplish the same thing only making it easier. A camera with good matrix metering will usually expose as well as anyone proficient in the zone system, only 1000 times quicker. In good lighting, I usually use P mode, and just dial in some +/- exposure compensation when needed. For some cases Av or Tv are necessary. M is mostly for "purists", like those who insist on a stick shift manual transmission in a car when a SMG will shift quicker than a human ever could...
Click to expand...

Stick shift is more fun and involving for the driver. It also provides greater control, just like "M"...

That said, I'm usually an Av guy, and adjust EC as needed.
 
Originally posted by: angry hampster
Why not just use M mode and expose +2/3 or +1 off a white plaid shirt? I've never understood the point of Av and Tv modes..they just seem lazy.
Click to expand...

I prefer the word, "automated". Also, things like Av and Tv can be awfully useful when engaging in different forms of photography (landscapes, wildlife, etc) in random order in a short period of time.

Seriously, what matters the method as long as the desired results are produced?
 
Originally posted by: Flipped Gazelle


I prefer the word, "automated". Also, things like Av and Tv can be awfully useful when engaging in different forms of photography (landscapes, wildlife, etc) in random order in a short period of time.

Seriously, what matters the method as long as the desired results are produced?
Click to expand...

I find that it's easier to produce the desired results when the camera isn't taking partial control over me. 😉


Similarly, going from landscapes to wildlife in a matter of seconds should not be an issue..your light will not change that much. It's as simple as flicking two dials either way.
 
Originally posted by: angry hampster
Why not just use M mode and expose +2/3 or +1 off a white plaid shirt? I've never understood the point of Av and Tv modes..they just seem lazy.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you try shooting fast-moving subjects in extremely variable lighting on M.

I mostly use M but there are definitely times when Av or Tv are called for, and you M-snobs are so used to shooting in fixed lighting situations you tend to forget that there are millions of different subject/condition combinations and there is no one-size-fits-all solution in photography.
 
Originally posted by: 996GT2

You mean the exposure compensation?

I know my Nikon D70, D200, and EOS 40D all have this ability. Most cameras with 2 control wheels should be able to do this. You simply rotate one of the command wheels to change exposure compensatoin on the fly. You can even set it so that a simple turn of the wheel (without any button pressing) changes the compensation for quick adjustments.

I leave my 40D in Aperture Priority most of the time. In Av mode, the main command dial changes the aperture, while the rear dial directly changes the exposure compensation (or flash exposure compensation with a button press). Very easy to get used to.
Click to expand...

no, i don't mean exposure compensation. exposure compensation changes the EV. i want the same EV, but to move up and down the shutter/aperture combinations like you can in program mode.
 

I go M whenever I can get consistent lighting conditions. If I'm outside, I'll simply go M and adjust through out the day or whenever a huge amount of clouds come in. I like how I can point at whatever I want and not worry about the metering kicking in and adjusting the settings that will be used. I also like it because I can force conditions that the camera probably would not have take.
But if I'm walking through places where conditions will constantly change, or I'm more wanting to enjoy the surrounding while casually taking pics, Tv or Av is where most of my time timme come in. I'll take a picture, if it isn't what I should it should be, I'll adjust with exposure compensation. Both are equally powerful and useful. No need to knock M no need to knock Av. I would think professionals , especially wedding photogs, absolutely rely on T or A.

Btw there is no 'clear cut' rule on exposure. Its really artistic taste and whatever you aim for that is the key. Of course, in this photo, it looks way to under exposed simply because its realllly dark without a point.
 
All modern dslr's can to that. But if the meter overexposes the scene, then all those combinations in P mode will be overexposed too, unless you adjust EV.
 
What I would personally do is enable the "highlights" function of your camera. Take probably 10 shots of the same subject outside. -2, -1.5, -1, -.5, 0, .5, 1, 1.5, 2. Make sure you make a note of which shot is which (i.e. #1 shot is -2, #2 shot is -1.5, etc.) Download your images into the computer (don't erase from memory card). Find the picture with the MOST ACCURATE exposure. Then put your memory card (with your pictures) inside the camera. Remember how much is "blownout" on your most accurate exposure. (i.e 1/3 of the screen is flashing). Remember that setting, and shoot for that setting in the future!!


you may then adjust your camera with exposure compensation for that setting to be "0"
 
Originally posted by: GodlessAstronomer

Yeah, you try shooting fast-moving subjects in extremely variable lighting on M.

I mostly use M but there are definitely times when Av or Tv are called for, and you M-snobs are so used to shooting in fixed lighting situations you tend to forget that there are millions of different subject/condition combinations and there is no one-size-fits-all solution in photography.
Click to expand...

If the scene gets brighter, you flick the dial and bump up your shutter speed. It's extraordinarily simple. I shoot for a daily newspaper, and take sports assignments from time to time. I have never had an issue using M mode only.
 
Originally posted by: ElFenix
Originally posted by: 996GT2

You mean the exposure compensation?

I know my Nikon D70, D200, and EOS 40D all have this ability. Most cameras with 2 control wheels should be able to do this. You simply rotate one of the command wheels to change exposure compensatoin on the fly. You can even set it so that a simple turn of the wheel (without any button pressing) changes the compensation for quick adjustments.

I leave my 40D in Aperture Priority most of the time. In Av mode, the main command dial changes the aperture, while the rear dial directly changes the exposure compensation (or flash exposure compensation with a button press). Very easy to get used to.
Click to expand...

no, i don't mean exposure compensation. exposure compensation changes the EV. i want the same EV, but to move up and down the shutter/aperture combinations like you can in program mode.
Click to expand...

Nikon calls it program shift. I presume that all DSLRs can do it, along with the high-end compacts.
 
Originally posted by: soydios

Nikon calls it program shift. I presume that all DSLRs can do it, along with the high-end compacts.
Click to expand...

yeah, it's program shift, but the problem with program is that the camera picks the exposure value, and then you shift up down, but you're still stuck at that exposure value. exposure compensation doesn't really help because if the camera thinks that the guy in the black jersey needs an exposure value of 14 but the guy in the white jersey needs one of 11, when the proper exposure for both is 12.5, you're going to have off exposures.

what i want is setting the exposure value on the front dial and shifting up and down shutter/aperture pairs with the rear dial. i'm reasonably certain my camera can't do anything of the sort, nor can any other current camera. well lit gymnasium? set to 7 on the front, open it up for action shots and close it down to get the guy shooting a freethrow and the scoreboard on the opposite wall in decent focus
 
Originally posted by: ElFenix
Originally posted by: soydios

Nikon calls it program shift. I presume that all DSLRs can do it, along with the high-end compacts.
Click to expand...

yeah, it's program shift, but the problem with program is that the camera picks the exposure value, and then you shift up down, but you're still stuck at that exposure value. exposure compensation doesn't really help because if the camera thinks that the guy in the black jersey needs an exposure value of 14 but the guy in the white jersey needs one of 11, when the proper exposure for both is 12.5, you're going to have off exposures.

what i want is setting the exposure value on the front dial and shifting up and down shutter/aperture pairs with the rear dial. i'm reasonably certain my camera can't do anything of the sort, nor can any other current camera. well lit gymnasium? set to 7 on the front, open it up for action shots and close it down to get the guy shooting a freethrow and the scoreboard on the opposite wall in decent focus
Click to expand...

Sorry but I'm still lost.

With (P)rogram mode, your camera chooses the EV, if the EV is off then Exposure Compensation can be used. Then with the corrected EV you can shift between different shutter/aperture pairs. Am I correct here?

The only thing I can think that you would mean is you manually set your SS/Aperture/ISO to get the exposure you want, then allow the dial to give you different SS/Aperture/ISO combos that give the same exposure.

 
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