Does anybody here surf? (not the net)

[notfred]

Where, Sacramento?

I may live here, but I was still born in SC.

Santa Cruz surfers are know for their hardcore closed minded territorial arrogance. What a load of crap about bodyboards.

A lot of the stereotype is justified too, especially on the west side, you have to be very careful if you want to get waves at the Lane or Stockton Ave. (drop in on a local guy once, and you're done for the day).
Fvck the west side though, you know all those guys in the magazines? Most of them are assholes if they don't know you. (Jay Moriarty was ALWAYs cool, though. R.I.P. Jay )

 

[LakerGod]

It must hurt like hell getting hit on the head by a longboard.

 

[apoppin]

I have surfed Santa Cruz. I just didn't like wearing a fullsuit in Summer. Nice waves, horrible attitude (much like WindanSea, La Jolla - I have surfed next door Big Rock [since 1983] before and after Hawaii).

Why did these guys forget the FUN aspect of surfing? I hope they don't all drive this way with total lack of respect and selfishness.

What makes their longboard more important than my body board? These guys are clueless.

Hawaii gets irritatingly crowded too. But then the "aloha" tries to come out so it is at least a tolerable experience.

EDIT: You mean the magazine POSERS? The real champions like Kelly Slater and Mike Stewart are humble, down-to-earth guys (Hawaii is really small - you can get to know all the surfers - I'd say surfing is unlike ANY other sport in this regard).

 

[notfred]

Originally posted by: LakerGod
It must hurt like hell getting hit on the head by a longboard.

I did a flyaway kickout on a 6'1" thuster w/ a 6 foot leash. Leash streched tight and pulled back like a rubber band (that and the board was in the air over my head) anyway... I got 8 stiches in my cheek and it felt like I got punched in the jaw for a week after getting a 6" fin stuck in the side of my face. I never had any serious longboard accidents.

 

[notfred]

Originally posted by: apoppin
I have surfed Santa Cruz. I just didn't like wearing a fullsuit in Summer. Nice waves, horrible attitude (much like WindanSea, La Jolla - I have surfed next door Big Rock [since 1983] before and after Hawaii).

Yeah, it's always cold, it's pretty much a fact of life there.

Why did these guys forget the FUN aspect of surfing? I hope they don't all drive this way with total lack of respect and selfishness.

Fun, what's that? They have to be badasses, they get move waves and move pictures in magazines that way.

What makes their longboard more important than my body board? These guys are clueless.

I dunno, it's a cultural thing I guess.

Actually, there are places around Santa Cruz where the people are usually friendly, and the crowds are small, and the waves are still pretty good. However, they're not in front of the cameras on top of the cliff by the lighthouse. It all depends on what kind of atmosphere you're looking for, and you're not going to find anything laid back at most of the spots that you read about in the magazines.

 

[MuffD]

I also like to Longboard/Bodyboard but prefer to bodyboard. You can do more tricks IMO. Hawaii is probably the best surf I've surfed ever! San Diego doesn't get too big but some winter's it's okay. I think other than Hawaii, the Wedge was one of my favorite spots. I like shorebreak when on my bodyboard.

 

[MuffD]

Apoppin,
Now I can tell some of the longboarders at Windnsea I've been surfin here since 1990
Since I was in high school, that's all I would here about the older dudes being there since like 1970 blah blah blah.

 

[apoppin]

I lived directly behind Gerry Lopez' beachfront house at Pipeline (another humble real surfing "champion") and got to talk with him between sets at Pipe.

He told me about his accident that sent chills down my spine. It seems he was fooling around on one of the smaller days and fell down in a sitting position as his board flipped over. Unfortunately, he landed right on his skag which went up all the way into his rectum. He had to wear that "bag" for a few weeks. He went into such detail, I had to ask him to stop. :Q

And you ask me WHY I prefer to bodyboard.

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: muffstah
Apoppin,
Now I can tell some of the longboarders at Windnsea I've been surfin here since 1990
Since I was in high school, that's all I would here about the older dudes being there since like 1970 blah blah blah.

I replied to you by PM. . . . unbelievable we've been surfing less than a 1/2 mile away (I can see WindanSea break from Big Rock).

Actually, I gave up on Windan because of the crap attitudes of the longboarders. Big Rock is more fun for ex-Hawaii surfers, anyway, and far more challenging, I think (if you wipe out, you have to deal with the sharp barnacle covered shallow reef).

 

[LakerGod]

Heh...i'm surprised by how many responses this thread has gotten...seems like there are a lot of hardcore people here.

I'm probably going to the beach this Saturday, hopefully I'll come up with one that isn't dirty or crowded.

 

[anonymouschris]

i may sound completely ignorant saying this, but i need to know since i am seriously considering learning how to surf. do you take lessons or do you just bring your board out and try the sport out yourself?

 

[LakerGod]

Actually, I know some universities like UCSD offer surfing classes, which makes sense since they're near the beach. I wouldn't know where to look, but I did the geek thing and researched the internet. Here is one site that I thought was decent: LINK.

Good luck.

 

[Moonbeam]

I taught myself in Hawaii. You watch, pick a bigger wave and paddle for shore. When you stand up, you keep the front end from going under water. Stand like you see others standing. You can just lay down for a while and ride like that. It's a gas, but I was lucky. There were a few times body surfing where I came up about the last second where I was gonna breathe whatever was available, water or air. Shouldn't have been surfing in a kona storm, on the windward side.

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: wongsoongpak
i may sound completely ignorant saying this, but i need to know since i am seriously considering learning how to surf. do you take lessons or do you just bring your board out and try the sport out yourself?

If your looking to stand-up, a lesson or two might be helpful. I'm not sure what part of Cali you're in, but there are lots of "surf schools" along the coast. The local paper (or weekly reader) might offer one or even a 'net search. If you're going to bodyboard, no lessions necessary.

If you just bring your board out to try, pick some uncrowded "whitewater" to practice and wear a leash so you don't lose your board (and hit someone).

 

[Brutuskend]

Did a LOT of body surfing (Anyone ever surfed "The Wedge" @ balboa ?) while I was in the service in So Cal in the 70's and a fair amount of Board ridding as well.

Haven't done any since the 70's though.

 

[Bignate603]

I've been surfing, long board. It was on an east coast beach that didn't have great waves though. I got up and it's really cool. It was alot more stable then I thought it would be. From what I heard a long board is more stable and easier to catch waves with (what the guy at the board shop I rented from told me) so they were much better for the waves we had there. I got beat up getting the thing out there though.

 

[trenchfoot]

ok, i have to admit a couple of things first: i'm from hawaii, born and lived here all my life (i'll admit to being at least 40 yrs old) of which at least 40 of those i have been actively and still do surf when conditions allow.

things to know and consider: SAFETY FIRST.
1. learn to swim first. then, learn to hold your breath under water while being tossed and rolled around and bumped off the reef by some waves without losing control of your board or maiming/drowning yourself doing it.
2. situational awareness is essential to your survival. yours, or those of your teacher/trainer. it's things that you don't see or are not aware of that will adversly affect you.
3. if you want to learn, surf where everybody else has the same skill level as you or people will ask you leave the area as you will be a dangerous threat to them.
4. loose boards in the surf always have the right of way, as well as any living creature bigger than you that calls the ocean home.
5. never, repeat: NEVER approach a wave or have the wave approach you broadside. if you're curious about that, try it once, close to shore with an ambulance waiting.
6. when beginning to surf, choose a board that will float you completely out of the water. your board is also your lifesaver. it also tends to keep you separated from things in the ocean that are curious about you in one way or another.
7. always have an experienced and trusted buddy with you in the water. he/she must have good eyesight, good hearing, good common sense and "surfing intuition".
8. when beginning, stick with one safe surf spot and get to know it well. surf conditions will vary greatly from that spot alone. don't go to an unknown spot unless you're with someone who knows the spot well, and has friends who surf there regularly. that way you avoid "trespassing" on what others might jealously consider "their turf".
9. learn to bail safely and cleanly. the most dangerous loose board in the water is your own.
10. slippery sun tan oil on your person will get you killed.
11. murky water at dusk or dawn will get you amputated.
12. the first wave of the set usually hides the bigger badder ones behind it.
13. if you see everyone else paddling in all at the same time and you're the last one out there, you're bait, and you're screwed and your buddy is either a genius or a coward.
14. ABOVE ALL, HAVE FUN!

 

[milagro]

Mostly bodyboard Sandy's or Mokapu`u here...just adding my two cents if you get a sponge...because the size varies, look for something that when it stands on its end, comes up to about your belly button. for 6 foot peeps, thats usually around 41 or 42 inches...

 

[apoppin]

Sandy's is very dangerous shorebreak (I preferred half-point over Sashimi rock). It is the very worst place to LEARN to surf. If you are in Hawaii, try the Wall (Waikiki). Makapuu is another place that is very fickle . . . I got it all-time (10') the day before Hurricane Iniki where it was breaking far outside in deep water. Haouli Reeves was charging!

I'd like to add a few things to that 14 point list for newbies:

15. Surf/bodyboard in front of the lifeguard tower. ASK them about conditions before you enter the water (they'll know right away you are new; dont aske me how)

16. KNOW the conditions and if possible the surf forecast. I have been caught in Hawaii with the day starting out flat and in just a few hours hitting 15' (backs - 30' from top-to-bottom). This is not so likely in Cali, however.

17. Sit and watch (observe) the ocean conditions at least 1/2 hour before you go out. You can see where other people are surfing and what the sets look like.

18. Just as in swimming, don't drink alcohol or eat a heavy meal just before you surf.

 

[LakerGod]

Wow...seems like a lot of people from Hawaii here. One question, how does going in murky water at dusk or dawn get you amputated?

 

[NikPreviousAcct]

I surf the couch.

nik

 

[DAPUNISHER]

Originally posted by: Phocas
I grew up in cocoa beach florida, now in school in ohio. I surf the great lakes from time to time and take the occasional trip to Costa Rica Me surfing.....

I live on the border of Rockledge/Viera and have been surfing Cocoa Beach most my life (I'm 35) I usually surf either the Tables, 2nd light, 15th street, RC's or Sebastian depending on how much time I have, swell, ect... you know I like Costa Rica too! It's our closest approximation to Hawaii since it's so close and inexpensive. That looks like Jaco or Hermosa in the pics. Anyways, apoppin is dishing out good advice so you newbies listen and learn

 

[DAPUNISHER]

Originally posted by: LakerGod
Wow...seems like a lot of people from Hawaii here. One question, how does going in murky water at dusk or dawn get you amputated?

Sharks can't identify you for what you are and may mistake you for a normal food source.

 

[DaiShan]

Originally posted by: LakerGod
Wow...seems like a lot of people from Hawaii here. One question, how does going in murky water at dusk or dawn get you amputated?

Sharks bro..Sharks

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: DAPUNISHER

Originally posted by: LakerGod
Wow...seems like a lot of people from Hawaii here. One question, how does going in murky water at dusk or dawn get you amputated?

Sharks can't identify you for what you are and may mistake you for a normal food source.

It seems the latest shark research info indicates sharks actually can tell the difference between human and their regular food source no matter the conditions. However, it makes sense not to go in water so murky YOU can't see anything coming. If you are living in an area known for sharks, it pays to keep aware at all times. AND never surf alone in case you need a rescue.

I used to surf secret spots along the NW shore of Oahu - my friend, a pilot flying the parachuters at the nearby Dillingham airfield used to see huge shadows a few hundred yards from one of my favorite breaks . . . he thought they were whales until he flew closer . . . just huge Tiger sharks . . . he said every now and then one would break from the pack and swim closer to where we were surfing and then just turn back . . . :Q

It's pretty obvious THEY were aware of us (how many other sea creatures, splash and shout and take wave after wave oblivious to the danger lurking nearby) . . . lucky for us, we just aren't their food.