Does anybody here surf? (not the net)

[LakerGod]

I've always wanted to learn how to, it seems like an awesome sport. Please share all comments and thoughts.

 

[snow patrol]

Well, I went 'body boarding' once. It was fun, but it was difficult enough without having to worry about actually standing up, so I don't think I'll ever make a surfer

 

[SWirth86]

Originally posted by: LakerGod
I've always wanted to learn how to, it seems like an awesome sport. Please share all comments and thoughts.

There's a new movie coming out about teenage girls who surf. If you watch it, you will probably learn a lot about surfing.

 

[LakerGod]

There's a new movie coming out about teenage girls who surf. If you watch it, you will probably learn a lot about surfing.

lol

 

[GrumpyMan]

It's a unique feeling standing up for the first time. I used to have a board called a Plastic Fantastic. Man I wish that board wouldn't of burned up in a fire we had. It's fun try it.

 

[apoppin]

For the past 20 years, I have been a dedicated surfer/bodyboarder. I went to live 8 years on Oahu's North Shore (surfed Pipeline as part of the regular "crew" there) to satisfy my "addiction".

I highly recommend the sport. However, you have to be flexible in your lifestyle because swell/waves are not regular - sometimes it goes flat for weeks (depending where you live - not in Hawaii, that's why I chose to live there).

However, I am back in San Diego (I still get back to Hawaii each Winter) and have been surfing small fun (uncrowded) waves at reef La Jolla each of the 5 days from Mon-Fri this past week.

If you are serious about learning, grab a (decent hard plastic bottom) body board and swim fins. You can ride the waves immediately and have fun without the expense of a new surfboard and the time required to master standing up.

 

[LakerGod]

You surfed Pipeline??! So you surfed 20 foot waves? That's freaking awesome. One of my favorite movies is 'North Shore', maybe you've seen it. I definetely want to get out and learn how. Do you know any good beaches around the Los Angeles area to get a start at? And what other equipment would I need to help me learn? Thanks.

 

[deftron]

I've been surfing.. but wouldn't call myself a surfer


Used to be a sidewalk surfer (skateboarder)

 

[Azraele]

Not surfing, but boogie boarding. I love it.

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: LakerGod
You surfed Pipeline??! So you surfed 20 foot waves? That's freaking awesome. One of my favorite movies is 'North Shore', maybe you've seen it. I definetely want to get out and learn how. Do you know any good beaches around the Los Angeles area to get a start at? And what other equipment would I need to help me learn? Thanks.

Yes. 20 foot waves are an intense experience . . . 25 feel from top-to-bottom is the biggest Pipeline wave I have dared (it's what they call 12 feet by the Hawaiian method of measuring the "back" of the wave).

North Shore is a 'hoot'. All my Hawaiian friends love to make fun of it.

LA??? Hmmm - yes . . . ANY beach not closed by pollution where there are waves (I wouldn't paddle out into the crowd at Malibu as a newbie). When you are just learning, pick small waves and learn to ride the whitewater to the shore. From there progress to "turning" and riding the wave's face.

You'll need a decent boogie board (try a used shop - no ripples on the bottom and pick a lightweight board that is still stff - resists bending easily). For a bigger guy, a longer bodyboard; if you're short a smaller board).

CRITICAL: get a pair of swimfins that are COMFORTABLE. Nothing discourages a person more than tight fins that cramp or loose ones that wear blisters (you might wear regular cotton or special neoprene "fin socks").

Get surf wax for the top of you board so you don't slip off. LA water is cool so, maybe a nylon surf shirt or neoprene vest (even a Spring suit). And don't forget the waterproof sunblock.

Finally, a surf leash that attaches to your wrist or foot is a good idea to keep the board nearby.

Have fun!

 

[Jfur]

Not for a while, but yes. And I was one of the first female skaters

 

[LakerGod]

North Shore rules!!! I love it, but maybe that's because i'm a haole. Weren't there real surfers in that movie?

Sorry for my ignorence, but what are swimfins?

 

[Jfur]

Sorry for my ignorence, but what are swimfins?

example here

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: LakerGod
North Shore rules!!! I love it, but maybe that's because i'm a haole. Weren't there real surfers in that movie?

Sorry for my ignorence, but what are swimfins?

Real surfers, yes . . . about real surfers, NO! But still fun and "campy" for a 'Haole boy from Arizona makes it big in Hawaii' fairy tale.

I like it too (really good for a laugh) . . . and - if I think about it - I guess, my personal experiences were a bit like our movie heroes' (I actually got a job in Radio and as a Surf reporter/forecaster in Hawaii . . . but I didn't get the girl like the babe in the movie).


That above posted link is good to show Churchill Swimfins. There are many good brands available - pick a CONFORTABLE one (usually a surf shop has a good selection). NEVER (ever) use diving fins!

If you actually go bodyboarding, ask me how to make swim fin "leashes" out of shoelaces (it's a sad experience to see your expensive new fins sink to the bottom or float away).

 

[Destined4nothin]

I surf occasionaly on my piece of shiznit $10 yard sale shortboard, its pretty fun, but skimboarding is more my thing. Anyone here skimboard?

 

[Tripleshot]

Its been a long time, but I remember catching the waves at San Onfre,trestles, tamarac, hunington beach with my 9'2", 21lb, balsa, semi gun in the 60's when "the Beach boys ruled the airwaves, and we ruled the pacific waves. Murph the Surf and cowabunga,dude where the watch words, and Bruce Brown produced the best films of surfing on the planet.

I want to surf again on those short boards. Seems cool you can fall off ,and not have to swim to shore chasing your board. learning on a big wave board in smallish surf made a good swimmer outta me.


52 isn't too old, is it apoppin?

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: Tripleshot
Its been a long time, but I remember catching the waves at San Onfre,trestles, tamarac, hunington beach with my 9'2", 21lb, balsa, semi gun in the 60's when "the Beach boys ruled the airwaves, and we ruled the pacific waves. Murph the Surf and cowabunga,dude where the watch words, and Bruce Brown produced the best films of surfing on the planet.

I want to surf again on those short boards. Seems cool you can fall off ,and not have to swim to shore chasing your board. learning on a big wave board in smallish surf made a good swimmer outta me.


52 isn't too old, is it apoppin?

Nope, I moved to Hawaii and surfed myh biggest waves in my 40s. I will continue to surf for as long as I am able (just smaller waves). It's a great sport and a healthy lifestyle. Please note, you can STILL have a 9' board that'll feel like a feather compared to that balsa board. The hydrodynamics of surfboards has improved a lot since you and I first started surfing.

 

[Slacker]

Check this out www.thehawaiinetwork.com Live streams of lots of beaches in Hawaii

 

[Darein]

Im trying to learn to surf. Its slow going since my brother sold his 7'10 board, so I've been on the look out. Its pretty fun, but paddling is hard the first few times, at least for me since I don't have those muscles defined yet. I definatly want to learn more this summer. I live on the Big Island, so there aren't big big waves, but occasionally some decent size.

 

[LakerGod]

Damn i've been looking online at some bodyboards...they're freaking expensive!!! I think i'll get some cheap used foam piece of crap and save my money for when i finally learn how to surf with the big boys.

 

[apoppin]

Really, how expensive?

I think you can still get a decent new board for under a hundred bucks (and a used board for cheaper). A new surfboard by a good shaper is going to cost you well over 3X that.

You really do need one with a slick plastic bottom. Those all foam ones are a complete waste . . .

 

[notfred]

I've surfed for 8 or nine years (yeah, I live in Sacramento now, but I refuse to sayt I've given it up, I'll be back eventually.)
Learning is a very trying experience. It'll be easier down south, where the water's warmer. Up in Santa Cruz, it takes quite a bit of dedication jsut to keep getting in the 55 degree water. It takes a long time to learn, years to get good, and decades to master. It's not like learning to ride a bike or play basketball, it's much, much more difficult. The hardest part is that you can't do it at your leisure. If you're trying to improve your 3 point shot, you can jsut keep grabbing the ball and shooting until you've practiced as much as you like. With surfing, Postitioning yourself so that you can actually get waves is as important as actually standing up and riding the wave. If you can't get waves, you can't learn. And if you go to any of the better spots, there are guys who have surfed there every day for years, and they're not likely to be passing on any decent waves so that some kook can try his hand at learning to stand up. So, if you want to learn, definitely find a beginner friendly beach (NOT places like windansea, silver strand, pleasure point, steamer lane... and those are jsut a few of the places not to go in CA). If you were in Santa Cruz, I'd suggest Cowell's Beach, but I don't know any beginner places down south. Get a longboard, they're a LOT easier to paddle and balance on. Once you get the hang of that, you can try a shortboard if you're into tricks and stuff. I qouldn't recommend a bodyboard. They're not as fun, and, at lest up here, you command absolutely no respect on one. The general rule is that the first person to catch the wave, or the farthest person back, gets the wave. No one counts bodyboarders as surfers though, and almsot anyone will drop in in front of them. The attitude is basically "if they want respect, they can learn to stand up like everyone else did". (also - what are you more likely to aviod, a 2 foot sponge, or a 6 foot pointed fiberglass dart with 6" fins sticking out of it?).

Oh, and after I moved up here, my brother decided my brand new, custom shaped, $400 board was available, since I wasn't using it, and he snapped it. There are few things that piss you off more than a snapped board. I once snapped a $500 longboard on the first day of a 3 day trip, and it was the only board I brought. That blew.

 

[Danman]

I boogie board, it's a lot easier for me.

 

[apoppin]

I qouldn't recommend a bodyboard. They're not as fun, and, at lest up here, you command absolutely no respect on one.

Where, Sacramento?

Santa Cruz surfers are know for their hardcore closed minded territorial arrogance. What a load of crap about bodyboards.


I learned on a longboard. I prefer to bodyboard. It's all a matter of "perspective". I prefer to be on my belly, pulling off big airs, getting deeper in the tube than any stand-up surfer dreams, multiple spins and rolls . . . then there is also the on-one-knee "drop-knee" stance.

In Hawaii - the only place that "really" counts (Santa Where?) - bodyboarders are just as respected as stand-up surfers.

Bodyboarding is an excellent introduction to the ocean. Without wasting time, you can have FUN immediately. You can learn to judge waves and also have the cocnfidence - if you lose your board in a serious situation - you have swimfins to swim in. Plus when you get hit in the head by your board (it IS inevitable) - you won't get hurt by the softer bodyboard. All my cuts and gashes come from the reef, not my razor sharp skags and sharp point on the surfboard.

What's cool is, AFTER you learn to judge and ride waves, the transition from a bodyboard to a surfboard is easy. Many of my friends enjoy both art forms - depending on wave conditions.

 

I grew up in cocoa beach florida, now in school in ohio. I surf the great lakes from time to time and take the occasional trip to Costa Rica Me surfing.....