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Do you guys take your remote start with you car to car?

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fleabag said:
You're a tard if you think that a car doesn't radiate heat without a radiator... It's ALWAYS radiating heat which is why sometimes it doesn't need to have the thermostat open despite putting heat in.
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You're an idiot. I didn't say a car doesn't radiate heat without a radiator. I said the radiator isn't active until operating temps are met. Need I dumb it down any more? What a ridiculous statement you just made.

I would just give up. You don't understand.
 
fleabag said:
You're a tard if you think that a car doesn't radiate heat without a radiator... It's ALWAYS radiating heat which is why sometimes it doesn't need to have the thermostat open despite putting heat in.

Scholzpdx said:
You're an idiot. I didn't say a car doesn't radiate heat without a radiator. I said the radiator isn't active until operating temps are met. Need I dumb it down any more? What a ridiculous statement you just made.

I would just give up. You don't understand.
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That's fleabag's typical way of 'arguing'. He regularly distorts people's responses, then accuses them of ignoring his original argument.
 
grrl said:
That's fleabag's typical way of 'arguing'. He regularly distorts people's responses, then accuses them of ignoring his original argument.
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I thought that's what this whole thread is about. I distort your POV and you distort mine... I mean after all, with all the responses to what I've said in this thread, there had to have been some serious gross simplification or misunderstanding to have the responses to my posts that you had...
 
Bignate603 said:
I took the liberty of looking up some numbers. I think you mentioned your family owns an S60. A 2004 S60 has these radiator specs RADIATOR, 3-ROW -- 24.37 in. x 16.56 in. That's a 403 sq in radiator with 3 rows of tubes. Where exactly do they hide a 200 sq in heater core inside the dash?

While I couldn't find dimensions for the S60's heater core I did find the dimensions for a Chevy van. Typically larger vehicles have larger heater cores (more interior space to heat up) and its specs are 8-1/4 x 7-5/8". It may be a double or triple row (can't really be more than that, it's only 1 - 3/8" thick) but even if its a 3 row that's still only the same as the radiator for the volvo. That heater core for the big van is 15% of the size of radiator for your volvo sedan. I wouldn't be surprised if the actual heater core for that volvo was closer to 10% the size of the radiator.
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Well until you get your numbers straight, your guess is as good as mine. I can only give you what I know and what I know is that there is a point where the temperature will DROP so long as other conditions are met. If you want, since we're going to have some really cold temperatures, maybe I can do some testing in the S60 both at idle and on the freeway. The temperatures we're about to experience are going to be around the low 30s which should be a bit colder than the 40-50f I was talking about.. I might even record the scan gauge in action.
 
fleabag, I love how you are up at 2:00 AM arguing this shit. I would like to get to a point in my life where I have nothing better to do with myself except stay up late at night, spending hours arguing with strangers who know more than myself.
 
Testing the 1996 Lumina 3.1L V6 at idle again. This time the heater will be turned on full hot and fan at it's highest setting.

Start - air temp is 33F, coolant temp is 35F.

5 minute mark - coolant has risen to 91F. Air from the vents is noticeably warm. The heater is not significantly affecting coolant warm up time, imo. Coolant temp is still rising nicely.
 
Chevy Cavalier (not sure on the year) w/ a 2.2L 4 cylinder. Heat on high set to defrost. Took ~10 minutes to fully warm up as Iscraped the snow and ice off.
 
fleabag said:
Well until you get your numbers straight, your guess is as good as mine. I can only give you what I know and what I know is that there is a point where the temperature will DROP so long as other conditions are met. If you want, since we're going to have some really cold temperatures, maybe I can do some testing in the S60 both at idle and on the freeway. The temperatures we're about to experience are going to be around the low 30s which should be a bit colder than the 40-50f I was talking about.. I might even record the scan gauge in action.
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How are my numbers not straight? I found the areas of the radiator for your car and the heater core for a significantly larger vehicle which should be much larger than the one for the volvo. While the size of the heater core may vary a bit from what I've showed it's not going to be anywhere near 1/2 the size of the radiator. I think it's pretty clear that your guess is off by quite a bit.

There is an air temperature where a car in good condition will have its temperature will drop but it is well below freezing. If your volvo is having its temperature drop from something as simple as driving on the freeway and turning on the heat. Not all problems throw a code or cause an obvious issue. It could be as simple as your thermostat sticking a bit, or simply not waiting long enough for the thermostat to adjust to bring the temperature back up to normal operating temps.
 
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If you drive off before the tstat opens, you may see such a drop the first time the tstat opens, I suppose. After that, and once the hotter coolant in the bypass loop has mixed thoroughly with the rest of the coolant, I would not expect to see such temp swings in the coolant.
 
Bignate603 said:
How are my numbers not straight? I found the areas of the radiator for your car and the heater core for a significantly larger vehicle which should be much larger than the one for the volvo. While the size of the heater core may vary a bit from what I've showed it's not going to be anywhere near 1/2 the size of the radiator. I think it's pretty clear that your guess is off by quite a bit.

There is an air temperature where a car in good condition will have its temperature will drop but it is well below freezing. If your volvo is having its temperature drop from something as simple as driving on the freeway and turning on the heat. Not all problems throw a code or cause an obvious issue. It could be as simple as your thermostat sticking a bit, or simply not waiting long enough for the thermostat to adjust to bring the temperature back up to normal operating temps.
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You haven't a clue as to what you're talking about. I already explained to you that the car is fine. If what you were saying is true, then the car would be overheating or look like it was overheating yet this has never happened despite the 105F+ temperatures we experience in the summer. As I already explained, the thermostat opens and closes quite noticeably, keeping within the 180F-190F range. If the car is in that temperature range for the longest time, and then I turn on the heater only to see the thermostat drop all the way to 160F before I intervened, then how could that possibly be a stuck thermostat. You do realize what your saying makes no sense, right?
 
The thermostat is NOT going to cycle close/open after a few minutes, do you realize that the water jackets around the cylinders/heads represents a small percentage of the total coolant and how quickly the engine would overheat is remained closed?. The temp drop to 160 was probably the fan coming on..
 
BUTCH1 said:
The thermostat is NOT going to cycle close/open after a few minutes, do you realize that the water jackets around the cylinders/heads represents a small percentage of the total coolant and how quickly the engine would overheat is remained closed?. The temp drop to 160 was probably the fan coming on..
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you're an idiot..
 
fleabag said:
you're an idiot..
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No, actually you seem to be. A car's thermostat does not open and close while it's running and after it's opened the first time.

The thermostatically controlled fan on your radiator, on the other hand, will cycle on and off in response to climbing coolant temps....comes on at a predetermined temp and turns off at a lower predetermined coolant temp. The thermostat, once open, remains open.
 
fleabag said:
Will someone here at least admit that there will be a point where an idling engine will NEVER reach operating temperature due to the outside temperature? If you do admit to this, how about you chime in with your thoughts on how cold it would have to be in order for this to happen.
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Yeah sure at -273 C the car won't be able to reach operating temperature... because the oil and gas will have frozen long ago...
 
fleabag said:
You haven't a clue as to what you're talking about. I already explained to you that the car is fine. If what you were saying is true, then the car would be overheating or look like it was overheating yet this has never happened despite the 105F+ temperatures we experience in the summer. As I already explained, the thermostat opens and closes quite noticeably, keeping within the 180F-190F range. If the car is in that temperature range for the longest time, and then I turn on the heater only to see the thermostat drop all the way to 160F before I intervened, then how could that possibly be a stuck thermostat. You do realize what your saying makes no sense, right?
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Thermostats can stick opened too.

Honestly though, you probably didn't give the car long enough for it to reach equilibrium. A 30 degree change in the system would be enough to cause the thermostat to start to close. It might take a few minutes until it completely reacts but it will start to ratchet down flow until the car's engine reaches equilibrium again.
 
Meghan54 said:
No, actually you seem to be. A car's thermostat does not open and close while it's running and after it's opened the first time.

The thermostatically controlled fan on your radiator, on the other hand, will cycle on and off in response to climbing coolant temps....comes on at a predetermined temp and turns off at a lower predetermined coolant temp. The thermostat, once open, remains open.
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Like I said, you're an idiot... First of all, you're assuming the electric fan is running all the time. You're wrong. To say that a car's thermostat does not open and close due to the hot coolant flowing through the radiator is a complete lie unless you're talking about a malfunctioning vehicle. You have no idea how the cooling system of a car works. Since nobody here wants to argue with me, against you, this only confirms my fears that you people haven't a fucking clue as to what you're talking about.

Listen KID, thermostats open when it reaches a designated temperature and close at a designated temperature, END OF DISCUSSION. If it doesn't close or doesn't open, then it is broken and somehow you've gotten yourself to believe a broken thermostat is one that is working. You are completely confused as to the purpose of a car's thermostat. Radiators are quite effective in the dissipation of heat without the assistance of a fan which is why in temperate climates, it's very possible for the radiator fan to never come on if it is electric because the radiator is able to cope with the job of dissipating excess heat. The fan is for when the heat output exceeds the ability for the radiator to dissipate heat through regular convection.

Bignate603 said:
Thermostats can stick opened too.

Honestly though, you probably didn't give the car long enough for it to reach equilibrium. A 30 degree change in the system would be enough to cause the thermostat to start to close. It might take a few minutes until it completely reacts but it will start to ratchet down flow until the car's engine reaches equilibrium again.
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If the thermostat was stuck open, the car would probably have been closer to 100F and would have a whole host of other problems. You've conveniently avoided the parts where I said you can clearly see when the thermostat has opened and closed.
 
fleabag said:
If the thermostat was stuck open, the car would probably have been closer to 100F and would have a whole host of other problems. You've conveniently avoided the parts where I said you can clearly see when the thermostat has opened and closed.
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It doesn't have to be stuck fully open, and I've had a thermostat stick then suddenly release. Also, I repeatedly stated that MAY be the problem but then said it was probably not the issue. The issue is much more likely to be in the driver's seat.

You're conveniently ignoring the points where I said it is probably just a sudden change and you failed to give the car enough time to reach equilibrium. Ignoring parts of what people say seems to be your primary form of debate. That and grabbing on to a single idea and holding on to it, no matter what arguments, proof or logic others bring against it.
 
Bignate603 said:
It doesn't have to be stuck fully open, and I've had a thermostat stick then suddenly release. Also, I repeatedly stated that MAY be the problem but then said it was probably not the issue. The issue is much more likely to be in the driver's seat.

You're conveniently ignoring the points where I said it is probably just a sudden change and you failed to give the car enough time to reach equilibrium. Ignoring parts of what people say seems to be your primary form of debate. That and grabbing on to a single idea and holding on to it, no matter what arguments, proof or logic others bring against it.
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Tell you what... it's going to get really cold where I live tonight, around 26F which should be record setting in our area. I'll put my scan gauge in the car and drive around and I'll report back with what I found. You claim that I didn't give the car "enough time", well how about I do what I did before, except instead of intervening, I'll just wait and if it doesn't change in 10 minutes, I'm calling it how it is, that the thermostat is fine and it's just that the heater core is outputting too much heat. I already told you before that the thermostat is obviously fine because the car has never overheated nor even gave the slightest indication that it could overheat. This car has a 2.5L engine, which is a lot less than the gas guzzlers people on this forum drive.
 
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