DIY Quick Guide: TIM replacement in 15 minutes. (excellent results)

[Tristor]

Last weekend when I put the backplates on (why these aren't included with the Classified when the Lightning had them I don't know, stupid EVGA) I decided to repaste both of the 780s while I was at it. I can't honestly tell you what difference it made simply because I didn't have the ability to isolate it as a variable given all the changes I made that day. At any rate though, I forgot to plug the cooler fan cable back in the first time which gave me an opportunity to take a photo of what it looked like post-mount for my paste job. I'm pretty decent with TIM application, so it wasn't super-shocking, but I basically got it perfect.

 

[wand3r3r]

Nice looking card!

 

[geokilla]

The confusion I had was since you referred to "die" but really you seem mean the whole GPU (in the picture including the green area and the metal parts connected to it) but not the whole red PCB. The GPU die itself (silicon AKA die) is just the small piece in the center (where the factory TIM was on top of).

I guess a couple concerns are if the TIM is thermally conductive. Does anyone know what those little parts are in the green area, it might matter if they could be shorted.

I would try clean off the green part but I'm not sure what those little pieces are.

Yep that's what I meant. The green area and the little bits that stick out near the edges. It's confusing to describe but the picture shows it the best... It's very little and I have no idea how to get it out as it's stuck in there. I'll take a picture if I really need to to show you guys.

 

[wand3r3r]

Yep that's what I meant. The green area and the little bits that stick out near the edges. It's confusing to describe but the picture shows it the best... It's very little and I have no idea how to get it out as it's stuck in there. I'll take a picture if I really need to to show you guys.

I don't think a picture is necessary now that we know what you mean.

Someone who is more knowledgeable about the particular components surrounding the die could chime in about the risk of leaving TIM around them...

 

[KingFatty]

What is the brand and model of the TIM you used? If you used some ancient TIM there is a small chance it is electrically conductive, but this is practically impossible I think.

 

[geokilla]

What is the brand and model of the TIM you used? If you used some ancient TIM there is a small chance it is electrically conductive, but this is practically impossible I think.

Noctua NT-H1.

Says it's not electrically conductive, but I wasn't sure if there are other properties that would cause it to go boom.
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=13&lng=en

 

[wand3r3r]

Here is Intel's guide to applying TIM on CPUs.

http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030329.htm

 

[KaRLiToS]

Here is Intel's guide to applying TIM on CPUs.

http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030329.htm

It is a very good guide :thumbsup: . A lot of good info for newbies but also even if you are experienced.

 

[crashtech]

The Intel guide is silent on the use of solvents. unfortunately. This is all it says:

Wipe off previously applied/used TIM on the heatspreader with a soft, dry cloth or tissue.

 

[Tristor]

The Intel guide is silent on the use of solvents. unfortunately. This is all it says:

A solvent which is always safe to use on electronics is 91% isopropyl alcohol. It evaporates quickly and is non-damaging to the materials used in electronic components. That + a lint-free cloth is always the way to go for removing TIM and cleaning the surfaces of components prior to re-application. You can also use pure distilled water if you are concerned about using a solvent as strong as alcohol, however it's important to ensure components are fully dried before powering.

 

[crashtech]

A solvent which is always safe to use on electronics is 91% isopropyl alcohol. It evaporates quickly and is non-damaging to the materials used in electronic components. That + a lint-free cloth is always the way to go for removing TIM and cleaning the surfaces of components prior to re-application. You can also use pure distilled water if you are concerned about using a solvent as strong as alcohol, however it's important to ensure components are fully dried before powering.

Yes, there was some "spirited" discussion earlier in this thread about the need for solvent cleaning. I am only pointing out the Intel seems to neither recommend nor discourage its use. I have always followed the method recommended in the Intel guide, though to be honest I had no idea the even had a guide.