Dilemma

[Ballatician]

So I am trying to modify an old gateway case for my new rig and have run into a potential roadblock. It looks like the Hercules ATX case on this page ( Link ) and has model number GP6-350 on the back.

Anyway, I have two main problems. The one I'm more concerned about is that there are way more brass standoffs than I need and I want to take out the unnecessary ones. I've tried a wrench, hammer, and various screwdrivers and have gotten nowhere. I've tried getting help from various places (Gateway, MicroCenter so far). The problem as you can see in the pictures below is on one side the hexagonal shape is flush with the metal panel. Does anyone have experience with standoffs like these or suggestions for how I can take them out??

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Sorry about the glare.



Secondly, the I/O opening is not completely rectangular, there are a few metal protrusions and in this shape some audio ports would be covered. I was thinking that maybe I could cut those out with something? It looks like 1/16th inch steel or something. I'll try to post pics of that too.

It looks pretty good except for these problems, if not theres always the cheap CM 690 at MicroCenter..

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

[firewolfsm]

Why do you need to take them out? Leave them where they are.

And you can buy a specialty knife at home depot for the I/O panel.

 

[Ballatician]

thanks for the knife info, as for the standoffs, wont the presence of one where there is no mobo opening increase the likelihood of short circuit??

anyone?

 

[Conjugal Visit]

dremel them?

 

[Zepper]

Yup, back when Gateway was big enough to afford proprietary stuff they did things like swaged in standoffs, non-standard I/O shields, etc. Are you even sure that there are standoffs in the needed standard positions for most ATX mobos? You can prevent the other ones from contacting things they shouldn't by insulating them or cutting them off with a dremel, etc. The question is, is it really worth the effort when the 690 is out there (cool, but not particularly quiet by nature) or the Rosewill 5600 series is on sale for both adequate cooling and good quietude.

.bh.

 

[Ballatician]

Thanks!, I came to the dremeling conclusion last night when I was using a wrench and continuously stripping off the threading. I will try that tonight, let you know how it goes.

As for mobos, I've fit it with mine and everything lines up just right, its just one long standoff (same as height as the others) and some shorter ones whose purpose, I don't know that bother me. I've already put in a lot of work painting the case and its a good size and solidly built. If it doesn't work for some reason, I won't be too heartbroken to try another one.

I bent back part of the steel on the I/O opening so everything is now accessible, I doubt the I/O shield Abit includes will ever fit though, because the window is not completely rectangular.

Thanks again for your help Conjugal Visit and Zepper

 

[Ballatician]

I insulated the offending standoffs since dremeling didn't work. I got a steel cutter from hope depot but the back panel is bent way out of shape and it wouldn't even cut it even though its less than 1 mm steel, lame. CM 690 here i come

 

[WoodButcher]

Your dremel tool w/ cut-off wheels should have no prob cutting that steel and brass. I love modding the old cases.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I almost don't need to add anything. But the choice of topic and problem issues is uncannily synonymous with my past and pending projects.

The Fam-Dam-ily went through a spate of full-tower Gateway machines when the reviews put the OEM in the top-three machine-builders. We've since replaced all the innards with P4-800FSB and later parts.

ADVICE: Put a cut-off wheel on your dremel, and cut away the stand-off at an angle so you finish the cut just flush with the mobo-pan. Then, very gently, pull the wheel across the remaining protruding edge of the standoff, to grind away the remainder. It will take several passes, but if you do it right, there's no strain on the cutoff wheel, the dremel, or anything else.

Last summer, I completed modding a PRE - "ATX" Compaq ProLiant Server case. It's mobo was Compaq-proprietary, and there were no standoffs that corresponded to the ATX spec. Some of them unscrewed; others had to be trimmed.

I just got a screw-hole tap that works a 6-32 size drill-hole. The sheet-steel is sturdy enough that any stand-off you screw into the resulting threads is secure. Just make sure the holes are drilled straight, and that the tap goes in straight. For taps near the PCI-slot-frame on the rear-case, measure VERY CAREFULLY and drill from the rear side of the mobo pan.

You can even use the Dremel after drilling two holes to make those egg-shaped holes in the case that accept slide-in brass standoffs.

What people fail to realize is that the pre-ATX era AT cases -- still compatible with the ISA 16-bit expansion card era -- were compatible with current-day ATX in the placement of AT-ISA and PCI expansion slots. There were always a standard number of expansion-slot positions for full-size motherboards -- about 7 to be exact. And with PCI-AGP era motherboards, the AGP card just fit the upper-most expansion-card slot. So today, the PCI_E VGA still fits. You can mod a 1992 tower-case without any special consideration for PCI-E graphics.

As for the I/O plate -- earlier Gateway cases had proprietary holes, just for their choice of ATX motherboards. Very carefully dremel these to the size of the replacement-ATX mobo I/O plate. I've done several, and the new motherboard and I/O plate, together with all expansion cards -- fits like a glove.

 

[Ballatician]

BonzaiDuck, it's inspiring to hear about your success modding the same exact style cases I'm working with! Thanks for all your tips.

Although I still want to use this old heavy tower, I went ahead and bought a CM690 the other day. It just works out better for me right now since I don't own a dremel and the 690 is only 39.99 after rebate right now. I'll keep the case (I've already painted it) for when I do have the proper tools and time.

I'm surprised you got the I/O plate to fit so snugly. Even before I bent mine all out of shape it seemed like it would be hard to cut exactly. I guess with the right cutter it would work out. Good luck with your future projects