DeWalt DW745 is junk.

[BoomerD]

You literally cannot do it on a table saw. I challenge you to find a youtube of someone resawing a 10" nominal lumber on a table saw. A 10" table saw won't do it as the blade only goes 4-1/2" tall, and 2x10 is 9-1/4" wide. So they'd need a 12" or 14" table saw and have to flip it over to do a full resaw. And anybody who owns a 12 or 14" TS wouldn't be dumb enough to try it.

Yeah...but I think the OP meant ripping 2x10's into something like 2x2 or something similar to that...NOT turning 2x10's into 1x10's.

 

[momeNt]

Yeah...but I think the OP meant ripping 2x10's into something like 2x2 or something similar to that...NOT turning 2x10's into 1x10's.

Feralkid was the one who brought it up, just a troll who wouldn't know the smell of sawdust if it hit him on the broad side of a barn.

 

[feralkid]

Feralkid was the one who brought it up, just a troll who wouldn't know the smell of sawdust if it hit him on the broad side of a barn.

I was simply verifying that the OP wasn't trying something crazy like that, you dimwit.

Why you had to come in here, swinging your dick around looking to pick an internet fight is your problem, not mine.

 

[norseamd]

why is it that everyone else is always a troll

and not reading the rest of the thread but remember that tools usually take some material with them

so a 2 by 10 will not turn into 5 2 by 2

feel dumb for even saying anything about it

 

[highland145]

People always say, "they don't make 'em like that anymore," however place your all-metal finely-crafted 60/70s era tools on Craigslist and nobody even wants them for free.

Too damned heavy to move. Even the crack heads wouldn't take them for scrap metal. I got a King Seeley bench top drill press at the same sale as the table saw ($100 ea). It's about 200lbs.

 

[PottedMeat]

Not mine but the same model.
http://ct-web2.unh.edu/lee/100-series.htm

Definitely not mine because I figure saw dust should clean itself up. But this is how the motor's mounted. On/off switch in on the front of the saw.

is that 3/4hp dual shaft? i picked up one of those for $10 :awe:

 

[highland145]

is that 3/4hp dual shaft? i picked up one of those for $10 :awe:

Awesome deal. I paid $100 and was still happy.

 

[NoTine42]

why is it that everyone else is always a troll

and not reading the rest of the thread but remember that tools usually take some material with them

so a 2 by 10 will not turn into 5 2 by 2

feel dumb for even saying anything about it

Correct, you would have an extra strip, too.

If your 2x10 is really an industry standard 1.5"x9.25" and you allowed a generous .25" for each cut, you would have (5) full (1.5" rips + 0.25") = 8.75" you will be left with an extra 1/2" strip.

 

[Greenman]

You can spend your money how you want...Once upon a time, I'd have agreed with you. But since being sold to Stanley/Black & Decker, their product quality has gone into the shitter too the point where they're NOT the premier tool company they once were.

That buy out was like 25 years back.

 

[momeNt]

Pretty much all the brands at Home Depot are sold by two companies, TTI or Stanley/B&D.

TTI makes Ryobi and Milwaukee, and S/B&D makes the rest. Ridgid tools are made by specific manufacturers, so it depends on the specific tool who made them. Their most recent table saw was produced by TTI, the previous generation was made by Steel City, and before that Emerson. I believe the one Alke has is made by Emerson.

edit: oh forgot Bosch, that covers Bosch, Skil, Rotozip, and Dremel.

 

[Vdubchaos]

Ryobi is garbage. I had one of their cordless drills and it was pure crap.

It's your problem for choosing to buy a cordless drill.

Unless you use those on daily basis/are a contractor, they are ALL crap (IMO).

Corded drill > cordless

 

[momeNt]

It's your problem for choosing to buy a cordless drill.

Unless you use those on daily basis/are a contractor, they are ALL crap (IMO).

Corded drill > cordless

I have a Black and Decker Matrix cordless drill / driver / jigsaw. It only cost me 60$ and the matrix heads can be used on a corded version so I figured when my battery dies I don't necessarily have to get a new battery but can just go to the corded version power unit (like $30). Really a great deal because corded or cordless impacts are usually $70+.

B&D makes the craftsman version of this tool also.

http://blackanddecker.com/matrix

I know people with some bosch cordless tools, impact wrenches, drivers, drills that are 3 years old on original batteries and still work fine. Not cheap though.

 

[momeNt]

Correct, you would have an extra strip, too.

If your 2x10 is really an industry standard 1.5"x9.25" and you allowed a generous .25" for each cut, you would have (5) full (1.5" rips + 0.25") = 8.75" you will be left with an extra 1/2" strip.

You only have to deduct the saw's kerf. Full kerf being .125 and thin kerf you have to check the blade itself. A quick google shows a freud glue line rip as a .091 kerf thickness.

 

[NoTine42]

You only have to deduct the saw's kerf. Full kerf being .125 and thin kerf you have to check the blade itself. A quick google shows a freud glue line rip as a .091 kerf thickness.

Thanks. I thought my table saw's kerf was only 1/8" but I didn't check it before posting.

 

[momeNt]

Thanks. I thought my table saw's kerf was only 1/8" but I didn't check it before posting.

Well that's .125 edit: I don't t hink you need to double the kerf when calculating how much you can rip off a single piece, you would just keep lining the wood against the fence and each cut only loses 1 kerf.

From what I've read I think it should be recommended to go full kerf on all your good blades - you will get more sharpenings out of them, and you also have a more stable blade for precision work. Full kerf if you run a 1.5hp induction belt driven motor. You might want thin kerf on a universal benchtop table saw.

Apparently thin kerf became popular in large lumber processing because of the energy savings on the motors. A regular hobbyist will save more money on full kerf though because the money spent resharpening far exceeds the energy saved.

 

[bradley]

I have a Black and Decker Matrix cordless drill / driver / jigsaw. It only cost me 60$ and the matrix heads can be used on a corded version so I figured when my battery dies I don't necessarily have to get a new battery but can just go to the corded version power unit (like $30). Really a great deal because corded or cordless impacts are usually $70+.

B&D makes the craftsman version of this tool also.

http://blackanddecker.com/matrix

I like the concept of these units with interchangeable parts. If the motor was contractor-grade strength, it would be a no-brainer to buy one of these. Though I would worry about these tools standing up to the rigors of daily usage.

 

[momeNt]

It just dawned on me.

If you are ripping dimensional framing lumber like 2x10s. They do not have a straight line to rip from. The boards are not edge jointed flat to give the fence a flat reference to rip from.

Any small curvature of the wood can result in bogging down the motor and in the case of a universal brush motor that's not good at all, you'll burn it out.

You might be able to just try replacing the brushes and see if that helps. Probably available pretty cheap and if it doesn't work, it's good to have a spare if you do end up getting the motor replaced if it turns out to be a bigger problem than that.

Ripping boards that are not jointed / straight lined ripped 1 side is dangerous btw. That's how kickback happens.

 

[momeNt]

I like the concept of these units with interchangeable parts. If the motor was contractor-grade strength, it would be a no-brainer to buy one of these. Though I would worry about these tools standing up to the rigors of daily usage.

Definitely a hobby tool, occasional repair tool around the house. If you are a deck contractor or framing contractor and you use impacts or drills on a daily basis I'd avoid anything from black and decker. Small motors that will burn up with prolonged use.

 

[alkemyst]

I like the concept of these units with interchangeable parts. If the motor was contractor-grade strength, it would be a no-brainer to buy one of these. Though I would worry about these tools standing up to the rigors of daily usage.

homeowners <> contractors.

The idea is to spend as much as you need to for a tool and not more.

If money is no object then most would do better just hiring a pro.

Some of us are in the middle area where we use our tools more and/or enjoy doing the work ourselves. Still even though I use my tools a crapload, spending $500 on a drill would be a waste.

Now I would like to get a smaller 9-12V drill for light duty vs my 20V cordless.

 

[momeNt]

homeowners <> contractors.

The idea is to spend as much as you need to for a tool and not more.

If money is no object then most would do better just hiring a pro.

Some of us are in the middle area where we use our tools more and/or enjoy doing the work ourselves. Still even though I use my tools a crapload, spending $500 on a drill would be a waste.

Now I would like to get a smaller 9-12V drill for light duty vs my 20V cordless.

I really want a screwdriver, something I can take apart panels with a lot of screws, or things that have a lot of screws but I don't want to be putting in a lot of torque, but is tiring for my hands.

9-12v drill for light duty? What are more specific needs, like a small right angle drill?

 

[Humpy]

Ripping boards that are not jointed / straight lined ripped 1 side is dangerous btw. That's how kickback happens.

Depends on how long the fence is, but it's a valid point. I would hope people are limiting use of this saw to cutting pre-milled 1x material, not framing lumber.

The little plastic tablesaws are nice though because if you do get kickback you can just hold the board and the saw will go flipping across the room instead.

 

[Scarpozzi]

They don't build them like they used to. I had a very old Craftsman jigsaw made entirely out of metal. No plastic BS, even the trigger was metal. Now that's a power tool.

Jigsaw fail is about the most common IMHO. I've had many of them break in recent years. I think the gears simply create too much friction and eventually heat up when used heavily or they are purposefully made cheap so people will have to replace them. I've broken a few black and deckers (I know one was cutting pine), a ryobi (cutting oak flooring), and the only one that's lasted over 10 years is a Bosch I've got, but it certainly doesn't operate as smoothly as it did when I first bought it.

Update on my table saw: After consideration, I think I'm going to try to fix it myself. I'll be taking the motor apart tonight if I don't get stuck replacing the hoses on my car tonight after work. Either way, I'll likely try to replace with non-OEM parts to get it working again as I think all the major pieces are still functioning. Whatever the breakdown is, shouldn't be anything too complicated, but I'll know more after I remove the blade and take the motor off.

 

[momeNt]

Jigsaw fail is about the most common IMHO. I've had many of them break in recent years. I think the gears simply create too much friction and eventually heat up when used heavily or they are purposefully made cheap so people will have to replace them. I've broken a few black and deckers (I know one was cutting pine), a ryobi (cutting oak flooring), and the only one that's lasted over 10 years is a Bosch I've got, but it certainly doesn't operate as smoothly as it did when I first bought it.

Update on my table saw: After consideration, I think I'm going to try to fix it myself. I'll be taking the motor apart tonight if I don't get stuck replacing the hoses on my car tonight after work. Either way, I'll likely try to replace with non-OEM parts to get it working again as I think all the major pieces are still functioning. Whatever the breakdown is, shouldn't be anything too complicated, but I'll know more after I remove the blade and take the motor off.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/brush-p-91179.html

Single brush, so I'll have my fingers crossed that you just have a broken brush and the repair is $3.65 + S&H.

 

[BudAshes]

I just bought a dewalt mitre saw yesterday. Hope it's not as junky.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-12-in-Double-Bevel-Compound-Miter-Saw-DW716/100384716

 

[alkemyst]

I really want a screwdriver, something I can take apart panels with a lot of screws, or things that have a lot of screws but I don't want to be putting in a lot of torque, but is tiring for my hands.

9-12v drill for light duty? What are more specific needs, like a small right angle drill?

I have the tool figured out. I need power capacity too.

Mostly my need is removing and putting in rack screws for things like Cisco 10+ RU chassis devices.

Something like off of here: http://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...ordless-drills-we-test-13-of-the-best#slide-1