Decent sub for 10x10 room with L and R line inputs?

[SpatiallyAware]

I like HSU stuff but it only has a single sub rca or speaker level.. I want something that connects up to my Audioengine A5's...


I'm thinking about the sub they offer

http://audioengineusa.com/s8_home.php

but I feel like I can get the same quality elsewhere for less..

 

[SpatiallyAware]

BTW - small room, 12x12 or so, carpeted. Sub is primarily for music, games, some movies.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

For something really cheap, the Dayton subs from partsexpress have L/R rca inputs.

The elemental designs lineup also has that type of input.

The VTF lineup has that too from HSU.

The 10" SVS has it.

Do you have room for a large sub?

My impression is that the Audioengine subs looks really expensive for what it appears to be. I'd say get one of the cheap subs... or spend in the ballpark of the s8's price and get a nice powerful sub.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Yes, I do have the room for a larger sub. I need to take some pics and get opinions on layout and etc though..

I agree with you about the 8" audioengine sub being overpriced, I'll check out your suggestions - thanks.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Also, although I have room for a large sub I want something with 'tighter' vs 'flabby' bass. I like the SVS, but at 300watts and 10" it seems a bit overkill for my space

What are your thoughts on 8" subs?

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Yoyo what are your thoughts on these?:

http://www.axiomaudio.com/audiobytecomputerspeakers.html


Edit:

Ok I can get the Axiom set with their small sub for ~$550... Reviews look great although I don't trust many website audio reviews..

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Any sub you'd get will allow you to control the volume on it as you desire. Having a more powerful sub will give you more headroom, but this extra capability might not be needed. If you think that eventually you might be moving your system into a larger space... or if you might re-purpose this subwoofer for a different system, then it might be worth it to get a big capable one.

Having owned the older version of the 10" SVS (the PB10 ISD), I would definitely describe it as tighter rather than flabby.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Yoyo what are your thoughts on these?:

http://www.axiomaudio.com/audiobytecomputerspeakers.html

Well I had some axioms to demo a while ago (their HT speakers, not this particular set) and I didn't really like them personally.

It would appear that they're using the same kind of drivers in this 2.1 computer system as they do in the larger speakers.

I would guess that this set wouldn't really be my own cup of tea, but there are a bunch of people out there that really like Axiom.

If you already have the A5s though, I don't know why you'd be considering these.
I'd probably rather have the A5s + a $100 sub than start over with the Axioms.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Well I had some axioms to demo a while ago (their HT speakers, not this particular set) and I didn't really like them personally.
<pic snipped>

It would appear that they're using the same kind of drivers in this 2.1 computer system as they do in the larger speakers.

I would guess that this set wouldn't really be my own cup of tea, but there are a bunch of people out there that really like Axiom.

If you already have the A5s though, I don't know why you'd be considering these.
I'd probably rather have the A5s + a $100 sub than start over with the Axioms.

I have some quality control issues with my A5s. My first set was overheating and had a defective top input. My second set is still overheating (may be by design) and shutting off even when played at normal levels. When they auto power turns them off they pop loudly (first set didn't do this). It's also tough to listen at low levels since the auto power wants to turn them off.

I've played with input volumes and etc at no avail. I'm sure they'll swap them out again, the customer service is great and they have a 3 year warranty but the overheating issue is (I believe) a function of the design.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Well that does sound odd.

I remember your other thread now where you were mentioning the input issues.

What did they have to say about the heat issue? It it's that they just let the back of the unit be the amp's heatsink, then I wouldn't call it "overheating" unless there is something wrong with yours (as it sounds like there may be).

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Well that does sound odd.

I remember your other thread now where you were mentioning the input issues.

What did they have to say about the heat issue? It it's that they just let the back of the unit be the amp's heatsink, then I wouldn't call it "overheating" unless there is something wrong with yours (as it sounds like there may be).

It seems as though they aren't shutting off/overheating anymore, although at 'loud' (not max, no distortion) volume the back is reading 160f+ at the hottest point with an infrared thermometer.

Also, the Dayton amps take low level inputs.. I need full/line level..

 

[SpatiallyAware]

What are your thoughts on this?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=309-176

Thanks

 

[BassBomb]

I've got myself a PS12 (not the best bang for buck option) but its more than adequate for 12x13 room I have (bedroom)

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

It seems as though they aren't shutting off/overheating anymore, although at 'loud' (not max, no distortion) volume the back is reading 160f+ at the hottest point with an infrared thermometer.

Also, the Dayton amps take low level inputs.. I need full/line level..

A picture from a while back showing the temperature on the top of my Onkyo 876 when I was just using it as a pre-pro (amplifiers not doing anything).

I'm sure internally it was a lot hotter since that was just a meat thermometer resting on the top surface

Some amps run hot, but not all do. The company should be able to tell you if the temperatures you're observing are normal.

As for the type of input you need...
You're just hooking up from the "line out" from the back of the active A5 speaker to a subwoofer, correct?
The dayton subs have both speaker level inputs and RCA line level inputs.

 

[mmntech]

I've got a vary similar setup that you describe. A bookshelf 5.1 system for a 10x12 room.

I just bought a Sony SA-W2500, which is pretty reasonably sized for that kind of room. The sub has a 10'' driver, L+R inputs, line level input, and produces a strong bass for it's size and price. Got it for $100. Not much point in spending the big bucks to throw a sub in a small room. The more expensive ones are better put to use in proper home theatre setups.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

A picture from a while back showing the temperature on the top of my Onkyo 876 when I was just using it as a pre-pro (amplifiers not doing anything).

<pics snipped>

I'm sure internally it was a lot hotter since that was just a meat thermometer resting on the top surface

Some amps run hot, but not all do. The company should be able to tell you if the temperatures you're observing are normal.

As for the type of input you need...
You're just hooking up from the "line out" from the back of the active A5 speaker to a subwoofer, correct?
The dayton subs have both speaker level inputs and RCA line level inputs.

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_large_xtra/300-633_Liv.jpg

According to all of the pics the RCA inputs are low-level only. I don't want to use speaker level since my monitors are powered, thus I'd only be able to feed it the right channel.



My concern isn't just the heat, it's that for the first ~10 hours of play time I had to be careful to keep them from overheating and shutting off. Maybe I'll have them swap them out yet again, maybe the third time is a charm?

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Maybe I'm being dense, but in this context, aren't "low level" and "line level" synonymous?

 

[vshah]

the audioengine outputs a line level sub signal from the RCA jacks, which will plug into the line level (marked "low level") rca jacks on the dayton sub.

I don't want to use speaker level since my monitors are powered, thus I'd only be able to feed it the right channel.

exactly, if you used speaker level, the sub would be sitting between the left and right speakers in the audio chain, which doesn't make much sense. A) it would only get the right speaker signal, and B) it might introduce some delay due to the filter in the sub.

connect the RCAs on the rear of the left speaker to those on the rear of the sub and you should be all set.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

the audioengine outputs a line level sub signal from the RCA jacks, which will plug into the line level (marked "low level") rca jacks on the dayton sub.



exactly, if you used speaker level, the sub would be sitting between the left and right speakers in the audio chain, which doesn't make much sense. A) it would only get the right speaker signal, and B) it might introduce some delay due to the filter in the sub.

connect the RCAs on the rear of the left speaker to those on the rear of the sub and you should be all set.

Ok, the audioengine outputs are full/line level outputs - i.e. ALL frequencies. That sub has a low level input, i.e. it wants only the low frequencies (I think?)

Then again, a google search indicates line level and low level are the same thing so it looks like I'm wrong. What a horrible naming convention.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

What are your thoughts on this?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=309-176

Thanks

Bump for this - looks like a really good quality 8" sub, but searches bring up nothing.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Ok, the audioengine outputs are full/line level outputs - i.e. ALL frequencies. That sub has a low level input, i.e. it wants only the low frequencies (I think?)

Then again, a google search indicates line level and low level are the same thing so it looks like I'm wrong. What a horrible naming convention.

"Low Level" is in terms of voltage, not frequency.

A "High Level" signal has enough power to drive headphones or speakers.

So, low and high are about voltage.

Either can be full range for frequencies or transmit only certain frequencies.

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Bump for this - looks like a really good quality 8" sub, but searches bring up nothing.

It looks like Allison used to be a high quality company. The name was bought by someone else recently who is rebadging other products under that respected Allison name.

Is that sub a good one? I have no idea. It's hard to tell from just looking at it.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

"Low Level" is in terms of voltage, not frequency.

A "High Level" signal has enough power to drive headphones or speakers.

So, low and high are about voltage.

Either can be full range for frequencies or transmit only certain frequencies.

Doh...


Thanks!

 

[vshah]

Doh...


Thanks!

so the A5s will feed a full range signal to the sub. make sure you get a sub with a low pass filter so that you can set the crossover on the sub itself. the A5s have are -1.5db at 60hz, so 65hz might be a good starting point on the sub, adjust it from there to your taste.

 

[lenjack]

You'll never get really good bass in a square room due to standing wave reinforcement and cancelation, no matter how good the sub.