Dead PSU? Need help finding new PSU.

[WhipperSnapper]

I think my PSU may have died. While gaming the image on my monitor froze up and after about 10 seconds I concluded that the rig had crashed, so I shut it down manually. I came back 15 minutes later and it would not even attempt to post as though it had no power at all. However, I did see a mobo light flicker whenever I pressed the power button. I know it isn't the main HD because I moved that to another computer an it works. (I'm currently using my laptop.)

This failure occurred without warning; the computer has been fine for the past several months.

Does it sound like the power supply?

In the past, perhaps once every 6 months the computer would freeze and then would not restart immediately, but would start against after being down for a minute. Could it have a problem with overheating? (I also discovered that all three intake fans were caked with dust.)

The suspected dead power supply is: Fortron 550W EPS

What should I purchase as a replacement? I'm on unemployment, so I don't want to spend a mint for the world's best PSU and I don't want to put too much money into repairing an older rig, anyway.

One of the issues is the number of Molex connectors; this is an older computer (2005/2006 build) with two ATA hard drives and two ATA DVD drives. I have a couple Molex splitters. Overall the PSU needs to power:

Slightly overclocked Athlon 4400 (10% overclock from 2.2 to 2.42 Ghz).
2 optical drives (rarely used)
2 ATA hard drives
3.5 floppy (rarely used)
6 80mm case fans
CPU Heatsink fan
8800 GT, BFG (which has a crappy, standard HSF).

Here are three candidates for replacement:

BFG GS-550 -- I can buy it locally at Microcenter for $40. Only has 4 4-pin Molex connectors though.

Logisys PS575XBK -- I can purchase this locally for $28. It has 5 or 6 4-pin Molex connectors (which I think is what the dead Fortran has.)

Tuniq Potency PSU-POT550-BK 550W This would be a mail-order from Newegg and it is 80 Plus for efficiency. It has 5 Molexes.

OCZ StealthXStream OCZ500SXS 500W Currently on sale for about $22 shipped as a Newegg guerilla deal. Only rated to 500W and only 4 Molex connectors.

The Logisys would be the cheapest and most convenient option but might also be the crappiest PSU. The Tuniq looks interesting. Thoughts?

 

[HOOfan 1]

It might be the motherboard...I would tell you to buy a cheap PSU tester or a multi-meter to test the PSU, but most of those cost as much as you seem to be planning on spending on the PSU alone....

certainly don't even think about buying the Logysis.

The StealthXstream is just another FSP
The Tuniq looks something like an FSP, but is likely a Sirfa rip off of the FSP Epsilon
The BFG is a fairly cheap Huntkey
The Logisys is just a piece of crap.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

The StealthXstream is just another FSP
The Tuniq looks something like an FSP, but is likely a Sirfa rip off of the FSP Epsilon
The BFG is a fairly cheap Huntkey
The Logisys is just a piece of crap.

In English...? Yeah, I'd figured that the Logisys was probably a POS but it looked OK for the price.

That leaves the OCZ StealthXStream, the BFG, and the Tuniq.

I can buy the BFG locally at Microcenter for $40, which is a big plus, but it only has 4 Molex plugs. I could probably make due with just 4 and I have a number of splitters so that's not that big of a deal. People seemed to like the BFG at Newegg--75% five star rating out of 169 reviews, which seems pretty good for power supplies.

I'm leaning towards the BFG, but I don't know if it's more reliable than the OCZ or Tuniq. The OCZ is only rated to 500W. The Tuniq seems to have decent specs (80+, lots of plugs).

 

[v8envy]

Any details on the stealth deal? For $22 that OCZ is a perfectly fine ~350 watt Fortron unit, highly usable for a basic box.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

It seems like most of these PSUs vent heat above them, but what if you have an older case that doesn't have exhaust fans on top? Is it really smart for the heat to just get vented to the top of the case (sitting 2 inches above the PSU)? Does it matter or would it be better to get one with a smaller fan that blows heat out the back of the PSU?

 

[HOOfan 1]

In English...?

FSP=Fortron

Meaning the OCZ is built by Fortron, likely on the same platform as the PSU you already have.
The Tuniq kind of looks like the design of a Fotron Epsilon which is what the OCZ is, but there are some differences. Tuniq uses Sirfa as an OEM, and Sirfa is known to just copy other OEM designs....So it might be a Sirfa knock off of a Fortron Epsilon.

The BFG GS is made by Huntkey. It is rated at 25C and Peak output, meaning its rating does not exactly compare to the rating of the other power supplies. If it were rated like the OCZ and Tuniq it would probably only be 450W.

 

[HOOfan 1]

It seems like most of these PSUs vent heat above them, but what if you have an older case that doesn't have exhaust fans on top? Is it really smart for the heat to just get vented to the top of the case (sitting 2 inches above the PSU)? Does it matter or would it be better to get one with a smaller fan that blows heat out the back of the PSU?

NO, they vent the heat out of the back....all ATX PSUs vent the heat out of the case. The fan on the top/bottom pulls air in from inside the case (or outside if you have a case that allows this) and pushes it out of the case.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

Hoofan, thanks for clarifying. It's good to know that those top fans are intakes and push the air out the back!

It's really amazing just how difficult it seems to be for manufacturers to get something like a power supply right. People have only been using power supplies in computers for 25 years now.

 

[HOOfan 1]

Hoofan, thanks for clarifying. It's good to know that those top fans are intakes and push the air out the back!

It's really amazing just how difficult it seems to be for manufacturers to get something like a power supply right. People have only been using power supplies in computers for 25 years now.

People have been driving cars for over 100 years...they still break down. Manufacturers have to move forward with newer and better technology...sometimes there are growing pains.

Then again, you have manufacturers who just build the cheapest thing they can, throw it on the market for less than half the price of the decent units, and they sell like hot cakes with people who don't know any better.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

I'm between buying the BFG for $40 locally and the OCZ for $22 shipped AR (have to move on it by the end of today to get it for $22 AR). According to what I found posted elsewhere the BFG is supposedly 450W continuous if you belief supposed BFG employee "Zap".

http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/591150-bfg-gs-550-550w.html

The BFG also seems to have very good purchaser feedback just about everywhere (75% gave it 5 eggs at Newegg out of about 169 reviews whereas the OCZ scored 51% out of 300+ reviews).

So between the OCZ and the BFG, I wonder which would put out more continuous power? Should the Tuniq be in the running at all? Should I just buy the OCZ for $22 shipped AR and hope it is adequate for my needs (and that I get the rebate)?

Slightly overclocked Athlon 4400 (10% overclock from 2.2 to 2.42 Ghz).
2 optical drives (rarely used)
2 ATA hard drives
3.5 floppy (rarely used)
6 80mm case fans
CPU Heatsink fan
8800 GT, BFG (which has a crappy, standard HSF).

 

[HOOfan 1]

I'm between buying the BFG for $40 locally and the OCZ for $22 shipped AR (have to move on it by the end of today to get it for $22 AR). According to what I found posted elsewhere the BFG is supposedly 450W continuous if you belief supposed BFG employee "Zap".

http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/591150-bfg-gs-550-550w.html

The BFG also seems to have very good purchaser feedback just about everywhere (75% gave it 5 eggs at Newegg out of about 169 reviews whereas the OCZ scored 51% out of 300+ reviews).

So between the OCZ and the BFG, I wonder which would put out more continuous power? Should the Tuniq be in the running at all? Should I just buy the OCZ for $22 shipped AR and hope it is adequate for my needs (and that I get the rebate)?

Slightly overclocked Athlon 4400 (10% overclock from 2.2 to 2.42 Ghz).
2 optical drives (rarely used)
2 ATA hard drives
3.5 floppy (rarely used)
6 80mm case fans
CPU Heatsink fan
8800 GT, BFG (which has a crappy, standard HSF).

Zap doesn't work for BFG anymore....BFG has laid off much of its staff...or they saw the writing on the wall and left already

 

[WhipperSnapper]

What do you guys think of the other OCZ power supplies? OCZ seems to have rebates on almost all of their power supplies right now:

These look interesting:

$39AR -- 550 W modular Plus 80 with Active PFC -- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341022 People really seemed to like this one, with 90% giving it 4 or 5 Eggs.

$50AR -- 600 W ModXStream Pro (modular) Plus 80 with Active PFC http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341017

$55AR -- 700 W StealthXStream with Active PFC (Plus 80?) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341019

-- It looks like Microcenter has this for $50AR (wow, they beat Newegg).
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0301549

(I know, the 500W is on sale for $22 shipped but I'm concerned that it won't provide enough continuous power.)

Would it make sense to purchase the 700W and never have to worry about inadequate power again? Would having a 700 increase the electricity bill over a 550 if the computer weren't using all of the available power? It seems like the Fatality 550W has the highest percentage of satisfied customers.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

OK, so in summary:

Here are some replacement candidates:

$22 OCZ 500W StealthXStream $22 AR shipped through Midnight tonight. Active PFC.
$40 BFG GS-550--available to me locally for $40.
$30 Tuniq Potency 550W. $30 AR shipped. Active PFC and Plus 80.
$39 OCZ Fatality 550 W modular $39 AR shipped. Has Active PFC and Plus 80.
$50 OCZ 600 W ModXStream pro (modular) $50 AR shipped, Active PFC Plus 80
$50 OCZ 700 W StealthXStream $50 AR local (Microcenter). Active PFC. (Plus 80?)
$60 OCZ 700W ModXStream Pro (modular) $60 AR local (Microcenter), Active PFC, Plus80

So, which would be best? The $22-AR OCZ 500W StealthXStream looks like a great deal (ends tonight) but will it provide enough power? Supposedly it's a rebadged Fortron.

The Tuniq looks to have good specs, but will it provide sufficient continuous power? The BFG is supposed to be a Huntkey and might provide 450 W continuous, but is really a decent PSU? People seem to rate it favorably at numerous sites.

Are the OCZs of higher quality than the other brands? What's the difference between the Fatality, the StealthXStream, and the ModXtreme lines?

People really seem to like the Fatality with 90% of the people giving it 4 or 5 eggs at Newegg. I can pick it up locally for $50 AR. Would it make more sense to get one of the 600 or 700's and not have to worry about having adequate power? What's the difference between the $50 600 W ModXStream and the $50 700 W StealthXStream in terms of quality and reliability?

 

[WhipperSnapper]

I just tried it again and it started up 27 hours after it went down. What would cause a computer to not start up and to start for hours and to finally start hours later? Does it sound like a PSU?

 

[WhipperSnapper]

The computer ran fine for about an hour-and-a-half last night and even ran an FPS game for half-an-hour. So the computer itself seems to be fine, at least the CPU. Perhaps the mobo has some sort of issue relating to start ups.

I came to start it up again today and it wouldn't start! I keep pressing the power button and nothing happened. I just happened to be pressing the power button while I was pulling the power cord out of the PSU when the yellow HD light came on. I plugged it back in and it started right up and froze when Windows loaded. I pressed the power button to shut it down and it booted up fine on the next try (typing on it now).

Could this be a bad connection between the power cord and the PSU or some sort of faulty power cord? I've never heard of one going bad. Does this eliminate the mobo as a culprit? It seems like the CPU and RAM definitely aren't the problem.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

Everything has been fine since mid-July now. My normal routine is to leave the power cord in when I shut down at night, and then when I come back in the morning, I normally have to unplug the power cord, hold the start button for a few seconds, and plug the cord back in and it starts right up without any problem.

But now it seems to be dead again.

I've been out of town for the past two weeks and left the power cord unplugged while I was away. Now I can't get it to start up again and it shows no signs of life. I'm going to leave the power cord in and try to start it every couple hours.

Does this sound like I have a PSU problem or a Mobo problem?

 

[fffblackmage]

Maybe it's a PSU problem. I had an old PSU that occasionally refused to start up my old computer. I could usually get it to start if I remove some components, but got worse and worse over time. Now it runs perfectly fine with a new PSU.

 

[bruceb]

Open up your computer case, look at the Capacitors on the motherboard. If you see any that are Bulging or Leaking, that is the problem. If they look ok, try a new CMOS Battery.

http://badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=5

 

[WhipperSnapper]

Would a dead CMOS battery prevent it from even attempting to start up? When I push the power button it's the same as though the PSU were unplugged or as though the computer didn't even have a power supply.

 

[Computers_Plus]

I would check the CMOS battery yes just to rule that out.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

It looks like it was the power supply. I just bought a Corsair 850 TX for $90 at Best Buy. (It's a clearance special, YMMV, model CMPSU850TX SKU 9358287.)

This PSU has a monstrous amount of cables. Fortunately I was able to zip tie the ones I won't be using and fold them up above the power supply. An 850w enthusiast PSU is probably overkill; I merely have a single 8800 GT and an overclocked Socket 939 Athlon 4400 (10% overclock).

I'm still a computer noob and it was a little nerve wracking having to swap out the PSUs in a tightly-packed tower. I was afraid that after all of that work I'd find out that the PSU was not the problem.

 

[MagickMan]

Yeah, that's some serious overkill. :biggrin: Great PSU, however. Nice price too. It's efficiency will suffer, but I wouldn't consider it a deal breaker.

 

[WhipperSnapper]

How will its efficiency suffer? If I only need 500w shouldn't it provide 500w at 80+% efficiency? (Shouldn't it only pull 625w max from the wall?)

 

[fffblackmage]

You don't actually use 500W when the computer sits there idling. Heck, I doubt you even use 500W under a full load. Even my rig doesn't hit close to 500W with the cpu and gpu fully loaded.

Efficiency will usually drop at the two extremes - very light and very heavy loads. Maximum efficiency peaks at some point in-between. How bad the efficiency might range from light to heavy load will depend on the PSU.

edit: found an example

What a minute... don't you have this box?

Anyways, it's the graph at the bottom. You'll be sitting at the very left sipping power at a relatively "low" efficiency whenever your computer is idling. It's not a terribly big deal or anything. The nice thing about 80 plus is that the psu will be pretty efficient through most of the range of loads you can use.

 

[TemjinGold]

How will its efficiency suffer? If I only need 500w shouldn't it provide 500w at 80+% efficiency? (Shouldn't it only pull 625w max from the wall?)

According to my APC, the unit in my sig uses 180 watts at idle and no more than 250 watts when gaming. The thing is, I have my HDTV monitor plugged into as well and the monitor uses 40 watts, so that means the system is only using 140 at idle and maxes at 210 when gaming. Just to give you a point of reference.

There is no way you'd come close to using 500w. An 850-watt PSU's 20% mark is 170 watts, which I could only draw at load. Most people spend more of their time at idle than anything else, which means you will fall below the 20% mark and your PSU's efficiency will most likely fall off a cliff. 80+ does NOT mean at least 80% efficiency at EVERY load from 0 to 100%. It only guarantees certain efficiencies at low (20%), medium, and high loads.