add the 30Gb drive for 30 ar, and use the 50 off 200 for 59.94+179.94-30mir-80mir-50coupon=$79.88 +tax on 239.98
just like adding on a 30 GB hdd for $10
just like adding on a 30 GB hdd for $10
PorkBun..
I only saw a 5200 160 gig Maxtor on Compusa's website. I don't think the Staples CSR who responded to my online PM email request (you can now request a PM via email online at Staples site), even checked. I kind of got the feeling I could have made up the price.
However.... CompUSA does have a Maxtor 160 gig 5200rpm drive for 169.99, which is $10 less than the Staples price BEFORE the rebates/coupons, etc.. (I included the email from Staplesin my prior post).... and they just did the PM 110% to the price I quoted of $169.99 from CompUSA. It only saved me another $11 or so. Staples price before coupons, etc., is $179.95.
Also... I don't know where the Staples got the part number off of CompUSA's website, as the number they PM'd (per Staples email to me), does not even pull up on the CompUSA website. So I don't know where they got that part number.
But... the bottom line is... the Staples website (I never saw this before), now has the ability to do an online PM request. It was very easy and quick. Staples came back within a day with the PM approval (per the email I posted from Staples).
I only saw a 5200 160 gig Maxtor on Compusa's website. I don't think the Staples CSR who responded to my online PM email request (you can now request a PM via email online at Staples site), even checked. I kind of got the feeling I could have made up the price.
However.... CompUSA does have a Maxtor 160 gig 5200rpm drive for 169.99, which is $10 less than the Staples price BEFORE the rebates/coupons, etc.. (I included the email from Staplesin my prior post).... and they just did the PM 110% to the price I quoted of $169.99 from CompUSA. It only saved me another $11 or so. Staples price before coupons, etc., is $179.95.
Also... I don't know where the Staples got the part number off of CompUSA's website, as the number they PM'd (per Staples email to me), does not even pull up on the CompUSA website. So I don't know where they got that part number.
But... the bottom line is... the Staples website (I never saw this before), now has the ability to do an online PM request. It was very easy and quick. Staples came back within a day with the PM approval (per the email I posted from Staples).
Atif
Platinum Member
- Oct 10, 2001
- 2,423
- 11
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Can somebody please tell me what the manufacturer part number is for the 160GB Retail Box with the UDMA/133 Card packaged inside. Is it L01P160? Does anybody have a L01P160 package that DID NOT come with the UDMA/133 card)?
Thanks in advance for letting me know
Peace
Thanks in advance for letting me know
Peace
How do you put the pricematch into the shopping cart after you receive the PM email? Is it necessary to call the 800 number to get it done? I saw the request page but don't see any way to enter the approval into the cart.
Got one today from my local Staples, even had it on hold since 10am.
$82.31 after MIR + the printable $30.00off + sold the ATA/133 PCI with the cable and all for $30.00 today (didn't need since i've already had one )
Total cost once i receive the MIR = $52.31 ..
Opened my Maxtor 3000LE external case, removed the 120GB and placed this 160GB, closed the case and here i am.. sweet deal.
Then placed this 120GB into a Tivo that needed a new HDD.. and now it's " Happy Happy "
$82.31 after MIR + the printable $30.00off + sold the ATA/133 PCI with the cable and all for $30.00 today (didn't need since i've already had one
)Total cost once i receive the MIR = $52.31 ..
Opened my Maxtor 3000LE external case, removed the 120GB and placed this 160GB, closed the case and here i am.. sweet deal.
Then placed this 120GB into a Tivo that needed a new HDD.. and now it's " Happy Happy "
Mine's supposed to arrive next Tuesday. I called the nearest Staples Tuesday afternoon to see if I could grab one locally and the guy said he'd sold the last one the day before. Guess there was a run on them since the sale started.
Anyways, I had a question on the noise level of the drives people are receiving. From Storagereview's comments, it's a crap-shoot whether you get a 60, 68 or 80 GB platter design. I've got a 120GB WD Caviar SE that I use for backups and I really can't stand it when it's up and running. Seems like the 68-GB platter Maxtor's are comparable to those, while the 80GB platter ones are closer to the Seagates.
Anyways, I had a question on the noise level of the drives people are receiving. From Storagereview's comments, it's a crap-shoot whether you get a 60, 68 or 80 GB platter design. I've got a 120GB WD Caviar SE that I use for backups and I really can't stand it when it's up and running. Seems like the 68-GB platter Maxtor's are comparable to those, while the 80GB platter ones are closer to the Seagates.
Frontline...
You place your order first. Without the PM. Then go back and use the PM request tool that Staples has on their website. They will then credit your card for the 110% difference.
You place your order first. Without the PM. Then go back and use the PM request tool that Staples has on their website. They will then credit your card for the 110% difference.
Satori:
I have these drives working in my systems. They are three Maxtors (160/8, 80/8 and an 80/2) a WD SE (80/8) and an IBM 180 GXP.
For the first 4 days of the WD SE's installation, it made this low-level grinding noise upon every initial boot up, then died away to nothing. I called WD technical and the only thing they offered was to RMA the drive. Checked it out with some software tools (IBM and WD's) and it showed OK so I kept it. Within a week, no more sounds on boot up. The Maxtor 160GB did the same thing for the first day, then it was noiseless. I thought it was something to do with the 8 M cache, but that's mere speculation and haven't read anything to support it.
Finally, my 160GB was made in late April 2003, so I'm assuming it's made with 80GB platters (didn't the article state that yields were expected to improve and the lower aerial densities were in the first production runs?) and a correspondingly lesser amount of noise to the internals.
Now they are all quiet even in their seek and read modes (and I've got good hearing). If you have a stethoscope or any type of tubing, you could actually place it on the drive housing itself to listen to the noise and if it still is bothering you, RMA it. I've found IBM, Maxtor and WD all pretty good about sending you another drive. Maxtor will even send you a replacement drive and you can send the RMA'd one back within 30 days with no charge to the credit card they take for this service. You may even get a brand new one if they haven't any replacements available.
Finally, I'm reluctant comments about these drives. The last time I stated that my IBM 75GXP seemed to be immune from the periodic 'clicking' failure after a year and a quarter of operation, I got the same failure. They sent me back the newly minted 180GXP.
I have these drives working in my systems. They are three Maxtors (160/8, 80/8 and an 80/2) a WD SE (80/8) and an IBM 180 GXP.
For the first 4 days of the WD SE's installation, it made this low-level grinding noise upon every initial boot up, then died away to nothing. I called WD technical and the only thing they offered was to RMA the drive. Checked it out with some software tools (IBM and WD's) and it showed OK so I kept it. Within a week, no more sounds on boot up. The Maxtor 160GB did the same thing for the first day, then it was noiseless. I thought it was something to do with the 8 M cache, but that's mere speculation and haven't read anything to support it.
Finally, my 160GB was made in late April 2003, so I'm assuming it's made with 80GB platters (didn't the article state that yields were expected to improve and the lower aerial densities were in the first production runs?) and a correspondingly lesser amount of noise to the internals.
Now they are all quiet even in their seek and read modes (and I've got good hearing). If you have a stethoscope or any type of tubing, you could actually place it on the drive housing itself to listen to the noise and if it still is bothering you, RMA it. I've found IBM, Maxtor and WD all pretty good about sending you another drive. Maxtor will even send you a replacement drive and you can send the RMA'd one back within 30 days with no charge to the credit card they take for this service. You may even get a brand new one if they haven't any replacements available.
Finally, I'm reluctant comments about these drives. The last time I stated that my IBM 75GXP seemed to be immune from the periodic 'clicking' failure after a year and a quarter of operation, I got the same failure. They sent me back the newly minted 180GXP.
To anyone that did get in on this deal if you find yourself not needing it or just wanting to sell it I am willing to pay up to $120 Shipped for a new sealed unit, slightly less for an open box. must be the 7200 RPM 8 MB Cache version to fit the other three I currently have raided into my system.
Thanks
Askalon
For the Epox, yes, use the card, it is really easy to use and for those that have onboard raid, my Shuttle wouldn't see them as 160, only 130. I used the card instead and used the software included with Windows 2000 Adv Server to create my raid.
Thanks
Askalon
For the Epox, yes, use the card, it is really easy to use and for those that have onboard raid, my Shuttle wouldn't see them as 160, only 130. I used the card instead and used the software included with Windows 2000 Adv Server to create my raid.
Whitneymuse: Thanks for the comments. My roomie has a WD 200/8SE that did the same thing you described. Weird grinding sound that went away after a week. He never figured out what was happening either.
Anyways, I hope I get an 80GB-platter design, since they're about the same as the Cuda IV's. IIRC, the WD 120/8SE I've got is a 3-platter design, so that's why its dB levels are higher than the other-capacity Special Editions in the Caviar family.
Anyways, I hope I get an 80GB-platter design, since they're about the same as the Cuda IV's. IIRC, the WD 120/8SE I've got is a 3-platter design, so that's why its dB levels are higher than the other-capacity Special Editions in the Caviar family.
For people who mention their harddrives prior to this one dying, how did that happen?
I have had a 40 GB Deskstar for over a year and a half. What can cause a harddrive to die?
I have had a 40 GB Deskstar for over a year and a half. What can cause a harddrive to die?
Woot! Just grabbed one from a Delaware retail store. Luckily, I work 20 minutes from the Delaware border so no taxes for me. $70 is a nice price
Odd, My old abit KT7 see's it just fine in Windows XP, my Shuttle AK35GTR sees it fine on regular IDE, but only 130 GB on the Raid channel w/ Windows 2000 (no reg tweaks on either one). By using the included card I was able to raid three of these drives together as 160 GB each with Windows 2000 AS (it's a built in option).
If you don't have good cooling, preferably a fan blowing over the drive, this can really shorten the life of a 7200rpm drive. This is what happened to my 80GB Seagate. Cheap power supplies or no surge suppressing are also hard on drives. The worst thing to do with a drive is jiggle the power connection to the drive when it is running. In fact, before you close your case make sure the power connection is in securily and none of the four pins is pushing out the back of the plastic connector when you plug it into the drive.
Don't get paranoid about your drive. Just occasionally make a complete Ghost image of your drive to another hard drive. I always do this whenever I have any inkling of trouble, which thankfully isn't too often.
Speedfan is a real nice utility that monitors CPU temperature and hard drive temperature. It also has a smart drive tab for telling the health of the drive. This utility is free. Put "speedfan" in the google search.
http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php This is much more stable than Motherboard Monitor, at least in the time I have used it.
I had a heck of time installing the Ultra 133 controller.
Maybe it is because I previously had an Ultra 66 in this computer. Anyway, the computer went into terminal gridlock trying to install drivers for the controller. I would click on Internet Explorer and it would be searching for Yahoo, my homepage, for like five minutes. It was a total slug. I took the card back out and rebooted. The system was still trashed!! So I did system restore to the previous day and this worked. My system was back to normal. I went to Maxtor's site and got drivers for the Ultra 133. When I put the card back in, I didn't mess around and let Windows "search for drivers (recommended)" I pointed it right to the XP drivers I downloaded. Everything worked fine after this.
Now I am happy because I have three hard drives, a pair of 120GB and this 160GB, and they each have their own controller channel. Each drive is master of it's own domain.
Maybe it is because I previously had an Ultra 66 in this computer. Anyway, the computer went into terminal gridlock trying to install drivers for the controller. I would click on Internet Explorer and it would be searching for Yahoo, my homepage, for like five minutes. It was a total slug. I took the card back out and rebooted. The system was still trashed!! So I did system restore to the previous day and this worked. My system was back to normal. I went to Maxtor's site and got drivers for the Ultra 133. When I put the card back in, I didn't mess around and let Windows "search for drivers (recommended)" I pointed it right to the XP drivers I downloaded. Everything worked fine after this.
Now I am happy because I have three hard drives, a pair of 120GB and this 160GB, and they each have their own controller channel. Each drive is master of it's own domain.
Askalon... if you still really want one.... let me know. I think I can get one for you. I have another being held for me.
I just got mine. Lost the pricematch from a couple weeks ago, but that's ok. Total comes to 80.81 after rebate.
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