You can get the D-link 604 cable/dsl router for $19.99 at Best Buy after MIRs.
$49.99
-20.00 rebate
-10.00 rebate
__________
Total $19.99
$49.99
-20.00 rebate
-10.00 rebate
__________
Total $19.99
D-link 604 router at BB for $19.99 + Tax after MIR
- Thread starter GoatHerderEd
- Start date
It is at BB B&M and .com.
It is just a router, no wireless, unless you want to hook an accesspoint up to it.
It is just a router, no wireless, unless you want to hook an accesspoint up to it.
does anyone have this router? i am looking for a router, and although i won't be using wireless right now, i was thinking of getting a wireless one for the future, but for $20, i could just get this one and buy the wireless when i need it. So, how would this stack up against comparable netgear and lynksys?
This router works well for me. Have had little problems getting it to work. I should point out that this router doesn't work with XBox Live in case anyone was wondering.
I got the DI-704P (similar model w/ the print server) at the Buy last summer for $35 AR
Works like a charm
Nice fearures for the price (port forwarding, selectable static IP to clients if you want, MAC address allowed list, etc.)
I have 6 PCs, a switch, a hub, and my pS2 running off of it
Works like a charm
Nice fearures for the price (port forwarding, selectable static IP to clients if you want, MAC address allowed list, etc.)
I have 6 PCs, a switch, a hub, and my pS2 running off of it
It was an oustanding after rebate deal I had to jump on that is long since ended
The DI-704P still goes for $50 After Rebate these days
The DI-704P still goes for $50 After Rebate these days
For what it's worth, my recommendation is to stay the h*ll away from the DI-604. I've used the following D-Link routers: DI-704, DI-704P (old style -- the brown chassis w/ serial modem port as well as printer server), DI-804, and DI-604. All the aformentioned routers EXCEPT the DI-604 were excellent. The DI-604 was a PIECE OF SH*T.
For regular home use, the DI-604 is POSSIBLY ok. yellowperil posted that the router doesn't work XBox Live; however, pharo posted that a firmware update apparently fixes this problem.
I purchased the DI-604 around July 2002 when BB had it on-sale for $29.99 - $10MIR (i.e. same $19.99). At the time, I was working for a client who offered a remote VPN connection to their corporate network. This required use of CheckPoint Software's SecuRemote VPN client as well as a "Secure-ID" card (a small keychain sized LCD display device which produces a 6 digit number every 60 seconds). To connect via VPN, I had to enter a username, pin #, and the 6 digit number shown on my Secure-ID card. Once authenticated, my session was supposed to be good indefinately (well, it would time out after 24hrs of inactivity).
With my system connected to the DI-604 (which in turn was connected to my cable modem), the SecuRemote software constantly prompted me to re-authenticate my VPN connection (i.e. sometimes as often as every MINUTE!). With my system connected directly to my cable modem or connected via a REPUTABLE router, my VPN connection stayed "authenticated" as it was supposed to.
I had the firewall guy on the VPN Server Side investigate what was going w/ my VPN connection. He reported to me that packets were being dropped by my router (the DI-604). The dropped packets were causing the VPN server to think that somebody was hacking my connection, thus it was asking me to re-authenticate all the time.
July 2002 was perhaps a long time ago and D-Link may have addressed such problems w/ newer firmware; however, I went through h*ll trying to get that POS router working correctly. I configured countless number of options, opened up the ports used by the VPN client, even set my machine as a DMZ host! Nothing I did got the thing to work correctly.
So going back to my original point, if you intend to do anythign significant/important w/ the router, STAY AWAY FROM THE DI-604. Get the DI-704P. The OLD STYLE (comes in a brown chassis) is a VERY SOLID router, includes a PRINT SERVER, and has a SERIAL PORT for analog modem backup (in the event your broadband connection goes down). Of course the OLD STYLE 704P is hard to find these days (i.e. almost impossible). I hope the new style is as solid as the old style. (New style comes in a titanium colored chassis. It doesn't include the serial port option).
For regular home use, the DI-604 is POSSIBLY ok. yellowperil posted that the router doesn't work XBox Live; however, pharo posted that a firmware update apparently fixes this problem.
I purchased the DI-604 around July 2002 when BB had it on-sale for $29.99 - $10MIR (i.e. same $19.99). At the time, I was working for a client who offered a remote VPN connection to their corporate network. This required use of CheckPoint Software's SecuRemote VPN client as well as a "Secure-ID" card (a small keychain sized LCD display device which produces a 6 digit number every 60 seconds). To connect via VPN, I had to enter a username, pin #, and the 6 digit number shown on my Secure-ID card. Once authenticated, my session was supposed to be good indefinately (well, it would time out after 24hrs of inactivity).
With my system connected to the DI-604 (which in turn was connected to my cable modem), the SecuRemote software constantly prompted me to re-authenticate my VPN connection (i.e. sometimes as often as every MINUTE!). With my system connected directly to my cable modem or connected via a REPUTABLE router, my VPN connection stayed "authenticated" as it was supposed to.
I had the firewall guy on the VPN Server Side investigate what was going w/ my VPN connection. He reported to me that packets were being dropped by my router (the DI-604). The dropped packets were causing the VPN server to think that somebody was hacking my connection, thus it was asking me to re-authenticate all the time.
July 2002 was perhaps a long time ago and D-Link may have addressed such problems w/ newer firmware; however, I went through h*ll trying to get that POS router working correctly. I configured countless number of options, opened up the ports used by the VPN client, even set my machine as a DMZ host! Nothing I did got the thing to work correctly.
So going back to my original point, if you intend to do anythign significant/important w/ the router, STAY AWAY FROM THE DI-604. Get the DI-704P. The OLD STYLE (comes in a brown chassis) is a VERY SOLID router, includes a PRINT SERVER, and has a SERIAL PORT for analog modem backup (in the event your broadband connection goes down). Of course the OLD STYLE 704P is hard to find these days (i.e. almost impossible). I hope the new style is as solid as the old style. (New style comes in a titanium colored chassis. It doesn't include the serial port option).
I appreciate your opinion, but this is a very specific application and in the future you may want to use some more commercial grade equipment for these types of installation. As far as SOHO installations, with the latest firmware the 604 is one of the easiest to set up and runs very reliable.
Yo
I've had this router for several months. I've tried all the firmware versions but it still drops my connection about every hour or so.... especially if I'm playing games online.
I got one for my friend and the router droped connection several times a day for apparently no reason. However, after I upgraded to the lastest firmware one week ago, it has been running solid so far. No dropping any more.
My solution was to switch to the DI-704P (I was lucky enough to find an "old style" one as I wanted the analog modem port backup connection. In fact, I found it for $49.99 w/ a $30MIR, so same price!) and returned the DI604. The DI-704P is by no means a "commercial" grade router, and the special "app" I was using didn't require commercial grade anything. The DI-604 was simply a faulty piece of equipment at that time. As you can see, others have since posted that their DI-604's drop connections every hour (although one person has mentioned that the latest firmware may have finally addressed the issue). At the time that I tried the DI-604, no existing firmware solved my connection issues. Given what I experienced w/ the router (randomly dropping packets), I stick by my recommendation that people should seriously consider a DIFFERENT router than the DI-604. I'm not saying stay away from D-LINK (as I still use a D-LINK router), just the DI-604.
Speaking of routers to stay away from...
For those interested in WIRELESS routers, a few months ago Netgear was clearing out their stock of MR314 routers. This is a 4 port WIRED & 802.11b WIRELESS router. It comes w/ a non-detachable, small/thin built in antenna, and as such has the absolute worst signal strength. The Netgear MR814 otoh comes w/ a larger and DETACHABLE antenna (and is also a 4-port/802.11b wireless router). The built in antenna of the MR814 results in a much stronger signal, and if it's still not strong enough, replace it w/ your own 3rd party large antenna. So stay away from the Netgear MR314 but by all means proceed w/ the MR814. (You can use the MR814 as an access point if you already have an existing router that features a print server, such as the D-LINK DI-704P.
)Originally posted by: TheDiggler
My solution was to switch to the DI-704P (I was lucky enough to find an "old style" one as I wanted the analog modem port backup connection. In fact, I found it for $49.99 w/ a $30MIR, so same price!) and returned the DI604. The DI-704P is by no means a "commercial" grade router, and the special "app" I was using didn't require commercial grade anything. The DI-604 was simply a faulty piece of equipment at that time. As you can see, others have since posted that their DI-604's drop connections every hour (although one person has mentioned that the latest firmware may have finally addressed the issue). At the time that I tried the DI-604, no existing firmware solved my connection issues. Given what I experienced w/ the router (randomly dropping packets), I stick by my recommendation that people should seriously consider a DIFFERENT router than the DI-604. I'm not saying stay away from D-LINK (as I still use a D-LINK router), just the DI-604.
Speaking of routers to stay away from...
For those interested in WIRELESS routers, a few months ago Netgear was clearing out their stock of MR314 routers. This is a 4 port WIRED & 802.11b WIRELESS router. It comes w/ a non-detachable, small/thin built in antenna, and as such has the absolute worst signal strength. The Netgear MR814 otoh comes w/ a larger and DETACHABLE antenna (and is also a 4-port/802.11b wireless router). The built in antenna of the MR814 results in a much stronger signal, and if it's still not strong enough, replace it w/ your own 3rd party large antenna. So stay away from the Netgear MR314 but by all means proceed w/ the MR814. (You can use the MR814 as an access point if you already have an existing router that features a print server, such as the D-LINK DI-704P.
I am glad the 704 does the trick for you, though unlike the new 604 it does not have stateful packet inspection (SPI) which is quite an improvement in terms of security. The MR814 is an awesome router. I always liked netgear equipment, and I am glad they are finally producing a quality wireless product.
Yo
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