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Could someone....

DannyBoy

DannyBoy

Diamond Member
Explain to me how to get the most out of my GF4MX440 thing.

I dont know the slightest thing about configuring it in the advanced section of the panel.

What exactly does AA & AF do? And will i notice better performance if i have it on?

I know its about filtering etc and i know what it does how it works etc, but some people seem to say it makes things run faster, others say it runs slower 😕

Help 🙁

Im sure my card is slower than it should be. My GeForce 256 32mb DDR was just as good as this thing :|

This is a chaintech GF4MX440 w/64mb DDR ram on it.


Thanks 🙂
Dan 🙁
 
AA is short for Anti-Aliasing which basically ups the resolution on the rendered frames and lowers it back down to the viewing resolution when it's output to your display device - thus smoothing any "jaggies" that might appear on a 3d edge. AF is short for Anisotropic Filtering (sp?) which sharpens the details of fading 3d objects (ones fading into the distance).

Both of these options will adversely affect your performance. And since you have a GF4 MX card, I wouldn't recommend playing modern games with AA and/or AF enabled since your GF4 MX can't provide the power to render these games with AA and AF on.

As far as the GF4 MX's performance in general... it sucks. It's essentially a souped up GeForce2 MX.
 
No its a sooped up GeForce2 Ultra...

I know the general performance is quite crap but it should still be better than what im getting :|

Dan :|
 
😉 Don't expect too much as the GF4MX440 is closest to a slightly enhanced GF2TI. The enhancements however are more to do with '2D' image quality, hw DVD playback, dual display (when applicable) and standardisation of TVout. As said AA makes the jaggies less visable, you get the jaggies when you try to draw a diagonal line or curve on a screen made up of squares. AF basicly makes the textures & details sharper esp on objects further away. As said the GF4/GF2 were never designed with AA or AF in mind and both suck big time, when you factor in that the 3D technology is now REALLY old they don't even have the grunt it takes to use high details even without AA or AF. Since your CPU is pretty nice (XP1800+ right?) I'd suggest you seriously consider a Radeon8500/9100/9000PRO or GF3/GF4TI which are HUGELY better and can now be found at bargain prices!

PS. Do try Coolbits and o/c the gfx card though.
 
Hi thanks for the advice 🙂

Yea i have an 1800 oc'd to 2000 atm.

Im KNOW this card isnt performing like it should because in my friends comp (A 1.4 Tbird) w/256meg ram UT2k3 isnt anywhere near as bad on 1280x1024 res.

Im juddering on 800x600 in my system :Q :|


Whats coolbits?

What do i do to oc the card, and how do i do it?

Thanks
Dan 😀
 
😉 There are plenty of tweaking apps out there (eg Powerstrip, RivaTuner etc) but Coolbits is the easiest. It's a tiny download and simply uncovers an otherwise hidden o/c'ing menu in 'Display Properties' - 'Settings' - 'Advanced'. You should find your clocks are 270/400 by default so as always simply raise them a little at a time and test to ensure it's 100% stable without any visual glitches. The RAM is the most important thing so I'd do that first. With the core and RAM when you find the fastest stable setting simply back off a little to ensure long term stability and to reduce the stress on the card. 300/460 or so should be doable as a rough guide. Does your friend have exactly the same gfx card, RAM etc ... the MX440-8X version uses higher clocks? Oh yeah do be sure it isn't the GF4MX440SE version as that uses SDR instead of DDR and operates at GF2MX400 speed. Be SURE you have DDR .... perhaps try your card in a nother PC ... you only need a Duron 1ghz to maximise the perf of GF2/4MX technology anyway.
 
The Chaintech site claims that it's running SDRAM.... and it doesn't seem like there's a fan on the card, which will limit o/cing somewhat. Overclocking values will be different for each sample, so just start by raising core/mem clocks gradually, by like 5MHz at a time, then run 3D Mark 2001. Keep raising the Core/mem untill graphical artifacts appear on the screen, then back the settings off slightly to insure stability.

Cheers
 
🙁 Those sure don't look like DDR chips to me, that would account for the mysterious speed deficit you mention but only the 420 & 440SE should use SDR.

😱 Further inspection reveals that it says your clocks are at 250/166 which is identical to a GF4MX420 and will put your perf way below a GF2TI. There's your problem my friend, whatever they call that card it is NOT a GF4MX440 ... sorry. With only passive cooling you're likely to be limited VERY close to 250 and it's most likely 5ns RAM which should hit around 200 when o/c'ed. IMHO I suggest you sell that turkey ... and fast!
 
Originally posted by: AnAndAustin
🙁 Those sure don't look like DDR chips to me, that would account for the mysterious speed deficit you mention but only the 420 & 440SE should use SDR.

😱 Further inspection reveals that it says your clocks are at 250/166 which is identical to a GF4MX420 and will put your perf way below a GF2TI. There's your problem my friend, whatever they call that card it is NOT a GF4MX440 ... sorry. With only passive cooling you're likely to be limited VERY close to 250 and it's most likely 5ns RAM which should hit around 200 when o/c'ed. IMHO I suggest you sell that turkey ... and fast!
Click to expand...

I can take it back, cost me 45 pound.

Only had it for about a month.

Can i get anything better for around the 45pound mark?
 
Err its a K7S5A?

I did not install the mobo drivers for the K7S5A from the installation CD as their was no need.

What relevance has that to the video card anyway?
 
Originally posted by: PCMarine
Turn off V-Sync

Also, It's probably time for a new video card...
Click to expand...

Ive only just got this one :Q

Turned off v-sync, will see if that makes any difference.

Will i notice any big difference with it off?
 
The ATI RADEON 8500LE 64MB DDR CRT/DVI/TV ,Dual Monitor support DVI-D + CRT only, BULK from NewEgg is $70 US, you should be able to find something close locally. It is so much better than your MX card.....

P.S. The card you got was $69 US from NewEgg.com, if that helps.

P.S.S. At Toms Hardware Video Card Review the above Radeon had 9723 on 3DMark 2001SE and the MX card (with 128megs) had a whopping 6763 on the same benchmark.
 
😎 For £50 you can get a GF3 or ATI Radeon8500 if you know where to look...

http://www.retekdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Video_Cards.html

http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?NOV-GF3

😉 GF3 and Rad8500/9100/9000PRO are hugely better than the GF2/4MX, of course GF4TI4200 is more ideal but then they're still about £100, the above usually retail for around £70 but do consider paying that little bit more for the likes of a GF4TI4200. You should still get your money back on your 'GF4MX440' even 2nd hand so I wouldn;t worry.
 
Ok im looking to buy the GF3 card now from http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?NOV-GF3

One problem, they only take credit card or switch :|

I returned my HSBC current account cards to HSBC because i was sick of them, and opened a new account with halifax.

Halifax wont give me a switch until ive been with them for 6 months :| only been with them for 4.

Any chance if i pay money direct into someones account in the UK who has a switch that they might be able to order it when they recieve the money?

Thanks
Dan
 
😉 Also look here:

£48 Full (built by) ATI Radeon 8500 which only has 64MB but should have 275/550 clocks and a 300/600 type o/c. You only get a 30day warranty but a manu warranty should also be applicable. BUT a whopping £9.40 P&P, stiff even for next day. TOTAL £58.
http://www.retekdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Video_Cards.html

£60 Hercules Radeon 8500LE but with 128MB and default clocks between 250/460 and 250/500 it's easily up there. P&P is £3.50 and often next day. TOTAL £63.50.
http://www.dabs.com/products/prod-info3-info.asp?&m=y&quicklinx=23ZZ

£45 (YOUR LINK) 'Novatech' GF3TI200 64MB. 3 day delivery for £3.50. TOTAL £48.50.
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/specpage.html?NOV-GF3

😀 I would strongly rec 128MB over 64MB and also a Radeon solution over a GF3. Stock perf is usually better with the Radeon plus you get much better TVout, dual display, image quality, DVD playback and DX8.1 (vs DX8.0), both choices are good but Rads are simply better. Perhaps Dabs or ReTek will accept alternate payment? If you're still stuck feel free to PM me.
 
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