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Core i7, RealTemp 3.00 stress test...

M

mastamoon

Junior Member
PC Config:

CPU: Core i7 920 w/ stock cooling
Mobo: Asus P6T Deluxe
Video: EVGA 9800 GTX
RAM: 6GB Corsair Dominator DDR3-1600
Case: Antec Nine Hundred
PSU: PC Power and Cooling 750w

First post here so please excuse any missteps..

I have been monitoring my CPU temps with RealTemp 3.00 and the reported temp for the cores is anywhere from 45 to 52ish under normal load (web browsing, Excel, Outlook). I decided to run a Sensor test in RealTemp which shows anywhere from 19 to 24 in movement. Then I ran the "10 minute sensor test" that uses Prime95 to load the system. Under full load I had temps from 85c to 98c.

Reading around this seems to be running way hot. I have my case fans set at Medium for the front 2 fans and extra side fan, and low on the top and rear exhaust fans. In the P6T bios i have kept all stock settings except for the X.M.P profile in order to get my ram to run at 1600mhz (otherwise runs at 1066).

Ambient temps are a little high in the office, about 75 today.

System runs great and I wont be constantly benchmarking or stress testing so Im not too worried about the temps, but if they could be better id like to know how. Kicking all fans on high doesnt really help much and is way to loud.

Any advice?

Thanks,
Jon
 
Originally posted by: mastamoon
PC Config:

CPU: Core i7 920 w/ stock cooling

Jon
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Forums! 🙂

Yes those temps are hot but you are using the stock cooler so this can be expected. Does the heatsink itself feel very warm to touch when the processor is fully loaded? Check the push pins making sure they are firmly "clicked" in place! If not, the cpu will overheat when stressed.
 
Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: mastamoon
PC Config:

CPU: Core i7 920 w/ <stock cooling

Jon
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Forums! 🙂

Yes those temps are hot but you are using the stock cooler so this can be expected. Does the heatsink itself feel very warm to touch when the processor is fully loaded? Check the push pins making sure they are firmly "clicked" in place! If not, the cpu will overheat when stressed.
Click to expand...

I didnt touch the heatsink while doing the test and dont want to subject the chip to 100c temps again to do so. Under no load its not hot at all. Ill have to shutdown to check the push pins but im pretty sure they were locked.

Just have to talk my boss into letting me buy a Noctua push/pull cooler.. after spending $1800 on this rig, whats another $70?!

 
For highest O/C with overvolts look for coolers with the most heatpipes. I can tell you the Noctua with three pipes will definitely not match the TRUE.
 
Would love a T.R.U.E. Black w/ dual fans! But by most accounts the Noctua with dual fans whoops on the TRUE w/ single which is to be expected. But I believe you get 2 fans with the Noctua for the price of the TRUE single...

Doesnt matter anyway as unless I feel like spending my own cash for my work PC, stocker is gonna have to do till it dies! 🙂

 
I have a similar system and have run the sensor test that uses P95 withReal Temp3.0
Using stock hsf on a 920 @ 3.0ghz my highest temps are 76 76 75 73.
I have an Antec 900 case with the fans all set on medium.
I am also using Corsair 1600 Dominator ram.

Make sure your Intel hsf has not come loose as mine did upon inital build.
My temps were the same as yours running the exact same test and I knew something was wrong. When I touched the hs it was loose. One of the push pins was not secure.
After securing it my temps are much better- 37 37 38 36 idle and highs as noted above.
I can comfortably run at 3.150ghz but 3.0 is fine with the stock cooler.
Of course an after market hsf will be better but the stock unit is quite sufficient up to 3.2ghz.
 
Originally posted by: pendragon
I have a similar system and have run the sensor test that uses P95 withReal Temp3.0
Using stock hsf on a 920 @ 3.0ghz my highest temps are 76 76 75 73.
I have an Antec 900 case with the fans all set on medium.
I am also using Corsair 1600 Dominator ram.

Make sure your Intel hsf has not come loose as mine did upon inital build.
My temps were the same as yours running the exact same test and I knew something was wrong. When I touched the hs it was loose. One of the push pins was not secure.
After securing it my temps are much better- 37 37 38 36 idle and highs as noted above.
I can comfortably run at 3.150ghz but 3.0 is fine with the stock cooler.
Of course an after market hsf will be better but the stock unit is quite sufficient up to 3.2ghz.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your post (and Rubycon's earlier). I opened up my case and checked the HSF and it looks like 2 of the 4 were not locked down correctly.. I think they were locked, but i don tthink the plastic nubs that really lock under the mobo was seated all the way.

I ran the prime95 stress test again for 5 minutes and got 79, 77, 79, 74 for temps... and the machine is "idle'ing" at 40, 40, 43, 36... which is almost a 10 degree difference at idle and like a 20 degree difference at 99.9% load.

Still want a nice cooler though... the Scythe Mugen 2 CPU Cooler is interesting at that price.. but ill see how it goes for now.

Thanks everybody for your comments.

 
Just one more thing...

Im suprised that Intel would ship a HSF/Cooler that has a contact patch the size of a dime for such a big chip... You would think they would ship something that atleast covered the entire chip. I bet these aftermarket coolers benefit the most by just having close to 100% contact with the chip over the stock cooler. You would think intel was in the aftermarket cooler business or something just looking to make you upgrade.. but sadly its just more parts bin engineering to save money.
 
Just one note: The HSF pins aren't really push-pins, they're "twist" pins. It requires virtually no force to mount these things properly if you know what you're doing. The only reason I discovered this is because I got very familiar with changing out LGA 775 mobos and CPUs while doing an extensive rebuild recently. I get the impression that the LGA 1366s are very similar. It's possible that your Asus mobo manual has a photographically illustrated procedure on how to align the pins on an HSF so that the HSF simply snaps into place with a series of judicious twists. The LGA pins have a narrow groove along one side of the flat top, where you normally think you would "push" down on the pin. Those grooves should be aligned with each corner of the HSF. Carefully insert two diagonal pins into their holes and then twist the pins. You should hear a nice satisfying "click" as they seat. Then, do the same for the other two. You may have to play with it a couple times to get it; however, it works and it's a darn sight easier than trying to cram those stupid pins in there from above, and much easier on your expensive mobo. Many bigger HSFs are notoriously difficult about this; however, the Asus instructions unlock the secret (at least for the mobo in my sig; I'm sure Asus does the same thing for others).
 
Originally posted by: mastamoon
Would love a T.R.U.E. Black w/ dual fans! But by most accounts the Noctua with dual fans whoops on the TRUE w/ single which is to be expected. But I believe you get 2 fans with the Noctua for the price of the TRUE single...

Doesnt matter anyway as unless I feel like spending my own cash for my work PC, stocker is gonna have to do till it dies! 🙂
Click to expand...

the last person to ignore rubycon's advice burned down half of montana. do what you want, however. I'm sure that some anonymous yahoo on hocp or whatever knows more about these things than the person who invented the internet!


ok, so maybe she didn't actually INVENT the internet, but she did see al gore on tv once so that's pretty close...
 
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