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Cooling a Bitfenix Prodigy

Hi all, I'm in the process of building a gaming rig in a Prodigy, and I've run in to a bit of a snag.

current specs are:

ASUS P8Z77-I ITX MB
i5-2500k @ 4.5GHz/1.34 volts
HD 6850 @ 925/1100 MHz, stock volts
8GB DDR3 1600, G'Skill Ripjaws-X
1 x WD green 1.5TB
2 x Intel 320 series 80GB SSD, RAID 0
Zalman CNPS11X Extreme cooler
Antec 380 Earthwatts Green

I had planned to use the Zalman cooler (already had it from a previous build), but in putting it together tonight I discovered that it will not fit with my motherboard and memory (on account of the Vcore daughterboard). So now I'm in the market for a cooler and looking for advice on what will fit.

I've heard a lot of good things about the CM Hyper 212, and I think I've seen builds in that case with it. However, I have also always wanted to do some sort of water cooling and now seems like a good time. Only problem is, my budget is sub-$50 at the moment. If it's worth it (in terms of performance and noise, in that order) to go with water, picking up used could be an option.

So my question is, will a hyper 212 keep that OC'd CPU cool? Or ought I to look into one of the Corsair AIO's?

Thanks in advance, this is turning out to be quite an undertaking, far more then I expected!
 
A hyper TX3 seemed to be the perfect fit for the bitfenix prodigy. I have it and I can get you a picture if you like.


EDIT: Nvm, if you plan on getting 4.5ghz out of it then go with a Corsair H60 or better.
 
A CM Hyper212 would work but not an ideal solution. I'm not sure if it would be able to be mounted in this position as its length would be an issue to the daughterboard. In the opposite orientation it would work but the hot air blown out will be partially blocked by the daughterboard as well. Getting a Corsair H60 seems to be the best solution based on your tight budget but getting it to 4.5GHz with reasonable temps is a stretch.
 
I believe a Hyper 212 would fit, as the Zalman nearly fits, but the heat pipes are a tiny bit too wide. The 212 looks like it is significantly narrower, as far as the heat pipes go.

It would appear that an H60 best fits my needs, but might be a bit small. I'm not adverse to downclocking a bit, but I'd like to keep what I have if possible. I'm guessing it would be a bad idea to see if I can get a used H60 for cheap and pick up a 240 Rad, then cut the lines and change it out for the stock 120? Tools/knowhow is no issue, I'm pretty capable and have very well equipped shop. I haven't done a ton of looking, but from pricing out a few parts a while back, buying the parts separately gets expensive in a hurry (swiftech combo CPU block/pump was $145 by itself!).

Case finally shipped, so I need to figure this out soon. (I go back to school next Saturday, and no longer have access to my shop).

Thanks for the input guys, keep it comin! 🙂
 
I've definitely seen some mods done on AIO units to be sort of semi custom but I advise against it. If you're spending the extra on a 240mm radiator, you're better off with the H100 and save yourself some trouble, time and money. The ones that I've seen would need a reservoir, radiator and tubing to make it feasible.

There is no easy fill port on the H60 pump unit, a reservoir is needed. New tubing is definitely necessary and there is no clear cut way of making the smaller tubing at the pump end to fit properly and if the original tubing is to be used, special sized barbs for the radiator is definitely required. I'm not sure about the size required except that it would be rare and expensive.
 
I believe a Hyper 212 would fit, as the Zalman nearly fits, but the heat pipes are a tiny bit too wide. The 212 looks like it is significantly narrower, as far as the heat pipes go.

It would appear that an H60 best fits my needs, but might be a bit small. I'm not adverse to downclocking a bit, but I'd like to keep what I have if possible. I'm guessing it would be a bad idea to see if I can get a used H60 for cheap and pick up a 240 Rad, then cut the lines and change it out for the stock 120? Tools/knowhow is no issue, I'm pretty capable and have very well equipped shop. I haven't done a ton of looking, but from pricing out a few parts a while back, buying the parts separately gets expensive in a hurry (swiftech combo CPU block/pump was $145 by itself!).

Case finally shipped, so I need to figure this out soon. (I go back to school next Saturday, and no longer have access to my shop).

Thanks for the input guys, keep it comin! 🙂


No need to mod an H60, just get the thicker H80. You will be able to get to 4.5ghz with an H60. Also look at the Antec Kuhler 620, it gets good thermal performance and is known to be a little more reliable than an H60.



An H60 or Kuhler 620 with push and pull Gentle Typhoons I think you will be in great shape. 🙂
 
After thinking about it, and finding a few builds using the exact same case and mobo (to guarantee fit), I decided to go with the CM 212+ EVO.

It won't cool as well as an H60/80, but I'm really price constrained at this point. Thanks for the help, I will most definitely be going the full water route sometime down the road.

Cheers 🙂

Ps: Anyone know the actual difference between a 212+ and a 212+ EVO? Nearest I could get was that the EVO includes a better fan, and for ~$3, I figured it was worth it.
 
After thinking about it, and finding a few builds using the exact same case and mobo (to guarantee fit), I decided to go with the CM 212+ EVO.

It won't cool as well as an H60/80, but I'm really price constrained at this point. Thanks for the help, I will most definitely be going the full water route sometime down the road.

Cheers 🙂

Ps: Anyone know the actual difference between a 212+ and a 212+ EVO? Nearest I could get was that the EVO includes a better fan, and for ~$3, I figured it was worth it.

View images of the base it's the main improvement on the evo. A lot more TIM friendly.
 
Ah. Hadn't noticed that before, but I see what you mean. They flattened the tubes, and I dare say it looks pretty durn snazzy.

The original one left users wondering if they got a good.TIM application when temps seemed high. The EVO almost makes it so easy a caveman could do....Mounting design makes it not caveman friendly tho 🙂
 
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The original one left.users wondering if they got a goo TIM applucation when temps seemed high. The EVO almost makes it so easy a caveman could do....Mounting design makes it not caveman friendly tho 🙂

Isn't that the same for push pins too? :hmm:
 
Ah. Hadn't noticed that before, but I see what you mean. They flattened the tubes, and I dare say it looks pretty durn snazzy.


Hyper Evo on left, plus on right
DSCF1457.jpg


Hyper Plus on top, Evo on bottom.
DSCF1461.jpg
 
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