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Coolermaster Cosmos: decent for watercooling?

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as good as most peoples is just opinions man, I'm sort of trying to copy the Murderbox with my setup I'm doing, people on here have said "WTF those are ugly!" when I saw it I was like "yikes that's pure bad ass" we can't compete with the likes of a aigomorla who himself said he had a box with probably "$1,000 in water cooling parts I'm not even using" we're the new kids on the block. But I bet if we come back in 2 years and have stuck with it, we'll be telling the n00bs how it works. The beautiful thing about PC's is it doesn't take anything but time and effort and a desire to learn.
 
Originally posted by: QueBert
that's another beautiful thing, a heatsink is boring and easy to install, putting another 120mm fan in a case is also pretty crummy for excitement level. I created a bookmark folder for all the stuff I'm going to need for this mod I'm doing. JESUS it's already long, I'm even researching tubing and clamps so I have the best setup possible. I've built hundreds of PC's over the years but this WC project will be a whole new level.

Best of luck with your box I hope you put up a diary or at least a few pics I always like to see the next nerds work (no offense lol)

your tigthen a sink to the board... end.

You tune your h2o system by controling flow, or scaling it to meet bigger needs, or controling the fans for sound... Or adding different loops for different needs.

Dude you guys only saw the tip of the iceberg. Dont look in the water, if you thought what you see now is bling, theres a line of super rare pure silver blocks. As well as 200 dollar pumps that will make you scream.

PS. im starting designs on my next computer freya. She is based off the TJ-07BW. Im getting the front bay covers gold gilded, and she will also have a 5inch front lcd screen. Oh most bling about her will be a custom copper motherboard panel. 😀


If you need ideas for your TJ let me know. Im not starting my build for another couple of months. Need to finish my chiller and then finish that CM690 writeup. :T
 
I have too many ideas as it is man 🙂 I need to keep it simple this is my first real mod so I can't think I can do anything. the $200 pump you talk about, you mean those huge ones? I'm dumb and have no problem spending a lot of money needlessly. My box might end up being worth $3,000 because I can get ignorant buying expensive stuff I don't really need.

 
Originally posted by: QueBert
I have too many ideas as it is man 🙂 I need to keep it simple this is my first real mod so I can't think I can do anything. the $200 pump you talk about, you mean those huge ones? I'm dumb and have no problem spending a lot of money needlessly. My box might end up being worth $3,000 because I can get ignorant buying expensive stuff I don't really need.

the RD-30... its not recomended if your a newbie. It requires its own PSU, and mounting is very limited do to its size.

Heres a comparison in size.

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0658.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0659.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0660.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0661.jpg


You need the PSU for the pump. It wont plug directly into your computer PSU.
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0663.jpg
 
well the tj07 has tons of space, I probably wouldn't go with the huge pump, but it does look pretty bad ass 😀
 
Well after almost a week without a computer I'm back😀

I received the Stacker 810, looks like it's going to do just fine. I'm on FrozenCPU right now, ordering a few things for the project. Here's the final parts list (major components only):

Dual Swiftech MCR220 radiators, both with internal reservoirs (going to order one now for the front, see what the size it is and if one would be able to fit on the back dual 120mm slot or if I need to get the one w/o the reservoir)

Dual Swiftech MCP655 pumps (price difference between these and the 355s is only 20 bucks, I figure why not step it up a bit?)

D-tek Fuzion CPU waterblock

Danger Den full-cover GPU waterblock (8800)

I'm still confused on what size fittings I need for the pumps, blocks, etc? 1/2", 3/8"? There's so many damned options.

 
Originally posted by: Rodknock
Well after almost a week without a computer I'm back😀

I received the Stacker 810, looks like it's going to do just fine. I'm on FrozenCPU right now, ordering a few things for the project. Here's the final parts list (major components only):

Dual Swiftech MCR220 radiators, both with internal reservoirs (going to order one now for the front, see what the size it is and if one would be able to fit on the back dual 120mm slot or if I need to get the one w/o the reservoir)

Dual Swiftech MCP655 pumps (price difference between these and the 355s is only 20 bucks, I figure why not step it up a bit?)

D-tek Fuzion CPU waterblock

Danger Den full-cover GPU waterblock (8800)

I'm still confused on what size fittings I need for the pumps, blocks, etc? 1/2", 3/8"? There's so many damned options.

First of all, i love frozen cpu and their customer service has always been great in my experiences, but their prices have been a little higher lately, I would suggest checking out sidewinder computers, SVC and jab-tech also. The MCP 655 is a great pump and I'm just now starting to hear about some longevity problems with the 355 plus, it won't need a top. Keep in mind that you can tune down the voltage on that 655 to prevent too much heat dump into your loop as they do get warmer than the 355. Since you are running a seperate CPU loop I would reccomend the accelerator nozles to tune performance even a bit more. You'll want to get 1/2" barbs with 7/16" ID tubing. You'll want to soak the tubing in hot water to soften in before you try and put it on the barbs to make it easier. Aigomorla likes to use KY, and who doesn't....

With the D-Tek you should use EK high flow barbs, danger den barbs with the dangerden and if you can, use the EK barbs on the radiators, not sure if they'll leak on the res' like they do on swiftech's blocks, any help here Aigomorla?
 
Originally posted by: Rodknock
So all the parts I'll be buying should have 1/2" fittings?

Unless you are going with any specific purpose memory cooling then yes, ideally all your barbs should be 1/2"OD. That generally means their ID is going t be between 3/8 and 7/16 which is why most people who do a lot of water cooling will suggest 7/16 thick wall tubing. there is virtually no real flow loss and it holds to the barbs much better.
 
Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
Originally posted by: Rodknock
Well after almost a week without a computer I'm back😀

I received the Stacker 810, looks like it's going to do just fine. I'm on FrozenCPU right now, ordering a few things for the project. Here's the final parts list (major components only):

Dual Swiftech MCR220 radiators, both with internal reservoirs (going to order one now for the front, see what the size it is and if one would be able to fit on the back dual 120mm slot or if I need to get the one w/o the reservoir)

Dual Swiftech MCP655 pumps (price difference between these and the 355s is only 20 bucks, I figure why not step it up a bit?)

D-tek Fuzion CPU waterblock

Danger Den full-cover GPU waterblock (8800)

I'm still confused on what size fittings I need for the pumps, blocks, etc? 1/2", 3/8"? There's so many damned options.

First of all, i love frozen cpu and their customer service has always been great in my experiences, but their prices have been a little higher lately, I would suggest checking out sidewinder computers, SVC and jab-tech also. The MCP 655 is a great pump and I'm just now starting to hear about some longevity problems with the 355 plus, it won't need a top. Keep in mind that you can tune down the voltage on that 655 to prevent too much heat dump into your loop as they do get warmer than the 355. Since you are running a seperate CPU loop I would reccomend the accelerator nozles to tune performance even a bit more. You'll want to get 1/2" barbs with 7/16" ID tubing. You'll want to soak the tubing in hot water to soften in before you try and put it on the barbs to make it easier. Aigomorla likes to use KY, and who doesn't....

With the D-Tek you should use EK high flow barbs, danger den barbs with the dangerden and if you can, use the EK barbs on the radiators, not sure if they'll leak on the res' like they do on swiftech's blocks, any help here Aigomorla?

interesting info about the 355, what other model with a top would you recommend? I kind of want a pump with a top so I can use one of those big ass EK res's and get a nice look from it. I'm way too stuck on how my box is going to look I should be worried about performance not apperance lol
 
Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
Aigomorla likes to use KY, and who doesn't....

With the D-Tek you should use EK high flow barbs, danger den barbs with the dangerden and if you can, use the EK barbs on the radiators, not sure if they'll leak on the res' like they do on swiftech's blocks, any help here Aigomorla?


😀 because KY is water solutable. Also doesnt clump like any oil based lubes.

Just make sure you only apply a small amount to the tip of the tube so it doesnt backflow into your water. A little tiny bit is fine, but you dont want to empty the entire bottle in there. 😛


Swiftech Radiator + EK barbs require double O ring.

When you buy the EK barb you get 1 oring. When you buy the swiftech block/rad it comes with a oring with plastic barbs.

Remove the oring that came with the plastic put it on your ek, and it will fit.

Only barbs that dont require double oring is the D-tek and Swiftech barbs. But there kinda ugly compred to the ek.


EK on EK barbs dont require double oring. Its EK barbs with swiftech eq that does. Dont ask me why, it used to not be like this.
 
Originally posted by: aigomorla
Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
Aigomorla likes to use KY, and who doesn't....

With the D-Tek you should use EK high flow barbs, danger den barbs with the dangerden and if you can, use the EK barbs on the radiators, not sure if they'll leak on the res' like they do on swiftech's blocks, any help here Aigomorla?


😀 because KY is water solutable. Also doesnt clump like any oil based lubes.

Just make sure you only apply a small amount to the tip of the tube so it doesnt backflow into your water. A little tiny bit is fine, but you dont want to empty the entire bottle in there. 😛

My sig just isn't big enough, i may actually remove my rig so I can hack up your sentances to make you sound just encouragable.
 
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