This is sounding like a much better option! I have 32" in width, I will go to Home Depot to see if I can buy a stud finder... Do the monitors have to be in studs? the 23" Samsung 2333T monitors are Without Pedestal Stand 16.2 lbs (7.4 kg) so I figure maybe they could?
Desk Wise, I was considering
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S19852113/#/S89836332
Those articulated arms are rated at 33lb. capacity, so the weight of any of your three monitors isn't an issue for the mounts themselves. What is an issue is that the mounting bracket for the articulated arm is attached with just two 1/4" screws, and if those screws aren't solidly anchored it won't matter how much weight the mounts can support.
Let me address the 32" wall width (between the trim mouldings) you have. I stated that in my monitor setup I had three 24" monitors mounted with the outer two mounts 32" apart, measured between the centerlines of the screw holes in each mounting bracket. With the 32" spacing of the outer mounting brackets, I have about an inch to play with on either side of the center 24" monitor.
That's why I said "If that measures a minimum of 38".....". Meaning, at minimum, the two outer arms need to be 38" apart on center in order to accomodate a 30" monitor in the middle (32" spacing = three 24" monitors, and 38" spacing = one 24" monitor + one 30" monitor + one 24" monitor).
But don't worry; I actually have a similar wall problem to yours and the solution isn't exactly beautiful, but it is very effective. I actually had 35" between the trim moulding on my wall, but when I took the stud finder to it I discovered that the trim moulding covered nearly the entire stud, leaving nothing to screw the brackets into. On top of that, the stud in the middle of the wall was about 7" off center.
I wasn't going to trust $1300.00 worth of IPS monitors to molly anchors in sheetrock, so I went to Home Depot and bought an 8 foot piece of 2x10 fir, four "SPAX 3/8" x 5" Hex-Head Lag Screws", and six "SPAX 1/4" x 1.5" Hex-Head Lag Screws"(SPAX is a name brand). I leveled the 2x10, at the height on the wall where I wanted my articulated mounts to be, so that it was laying over the trim moulding on each side. Then, using the top and bottom of the 2x10 as a guide, I marked the trim moulding on each side of the wall with a fine-point Sharpie.
With the trim-moulding marked, I cut out the two trim pieces and removed them. After measuring and cutting it to length I used two 3/8" x 5" lags, at each end, to mount the 2x10 onto the studs that had been covered by the trim moulding. The last part was mounting the articulated arm brackets by screwing them onto the 2x10 with the 1/4" x 1.5" lags. I can put a lot more than 33lbs. on one of those arms and that 2x10 doesn't budge. But you still need a minimum of 38"; I'd suggest just extending the 2x10 toward the right-hand window opening enough to get your 38" minimum bracket spacing distance, and be done with it (42"-44" spacing would be ideal).
On the other hand; that's some really nice trim moulding you have, and I'd hate to cut it. In your case I'd use the stud finder to (hopefully) find enough stud sticking out, past the trim moulding on each side, to run the 3/8" x 5" lags into even if you had to angle them a bit to solidly sink the lag into the stud (you've also got that stud somewhere in the middle you can use). Now you would have a 32" length of 2x10 lagged into the wall studs. Next, mount the second length of 2x10 to the face of the 32" 2x10, using 1/4" x 2.5" lag screws, and let it extend toward the right-hand window opening enough to get your ideal 42"-44" spacing. Then mount the articulated arm brackets by screwing them onto that 2x10 with the 1/4" x 1.5" lags.
This way you don't have cut your trim moulding on either side, the second piece of 2x10 extending towards the window opening will easily clear the face of that trim moulding (since the 32" piece of 2x10 is 1.5" thick, and the trim probably 3/4" thick), you can adjust the length of the second piece of 2x10 to whatever length you need to accomodate your three monitors, and when it came time to take it all down you would only be patching the small holes in the wall where the 32" length of 2x10 was lagged in.
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the best thing about building a table is that you have the option to optimize the table for your height/preference, if you're short/tall, you can build a table that is optimized for your chair and also maintaining a eye level with monitors (trust me, if you perfect a straight monitor to eye, its very comfy!)
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