Coil Pack Issue

[microAmp]

I had a coil pack replaced on a 2012 Dodge Avenger, due to P0306 code. Cylinder 6 misfire. 5 days later, same code pops up. It works, just fails once in a while. On the original coil pack, I cleared the code and 20 minutes later it pops up again.

While the work is still under warranty and I plan to take it back the the shop. What could be causing the coil pack to fail. Is there something that controls things about the coil pack?

Update:

The mechanic did some standard testing they did the first time around, fuel pressure check and few other things with cold and hot engine and all checked out fine.

To get access to the coil packs, sparks plugs, compression testing, and leak test, they let have to remove upper intake manifold. Cold engine compression testing and leak test (0.04) showed it being good. They then ran the engine for 2 hours and repeated the compression testing, which was good; then the leak test, not so good. 0.50? IIRC.

The garage shop said Dodge has a TSB for that particular cylinder head and it should be free for me to get it fixed once Dodge does all their diagnostics testing and come to the same conclusion, due to there being some kind of extended warranty.

Related article: http://www.torquenews.com/106/chrysler-replacing-cylinder-heads-select-pentastar-v6-powered-models

A website reports left cylinder head gets 10 year 150,000 mile warranty: http://www.allpar.com/news/2014/06/chrysler-stands-behind-heads-25322

Update 2:
Took it into the dealer on a Wednesday and they confirmed that the head will need to be replaced. Diagnostic fee, $120, will be waved. Part comes in on a Tuesday, unknown at this point when it gets back to me.

 

[jlee]

Did they change the plug as well as the coil?

 

[DaTT]

Is it a genuine Dodge part, or a rebuilt aftermarket part?

 

[dave_the_nerd]

http://www.engine-codes.com/P0306.html

- Faulty spark plug 6
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector 6
- Faulty ignition coil 6
- Fuel injector 6 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 6 circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coil 6 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coil 6 circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinder 6 compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Intake air leak

Could be a lot of things, not just the coild pack. So I'd start by swapping the spark plug, since that's cheapest/fastest.

Because I live where I do, park where I do, and have had the issues I've had, I'd also check for squirrel damage to the spark plug wires. But I know that's not as likely. 😀

 

[jlee]

http://www.engine-codes.com/P0306.html



Could be a lot of things, not just the coild pack. So I'd start by swapping the spark plug, since that's cheapest/fastest.

Because I live where I do, park where I do, and have had the issues I've had, I'd also check for squirrel damage to the spark plug wires. But I know that's not as likely. 😀

Especially since it's a coil on plug motor. 😉

 

[microAmp]

Did they change the plug as well as the coil?

Yes, all 6 plugs were changed out.

Is it a genuine Dodge part, or a rebuilt aftermarket part?

Not sure if genuine Dodge part or not, not sure what auto shops normally do.

http://www.engine-codes.com/P0306.html



Could be a lot of things, not just the coild pack. So I'd start by swapping the spark plug, since that's cheapest/fastest.

Because I live where I do, park where I do, and have had the issues I've had, I'd also check for squirrel damage to the spark plug wires. But I know that's not as likely. 😀

They did check a couple of other things before saying coil pack. Also, never seen a squirrel in my neighborhood. 🙁 I park in my garage at any rate, except at work which is out side and have squirrels but I'm sure the mechanic would have seen that... ?


I should add, 74k miles on the car. :/

 

[DaTT]

Yes, all 6 plugs were changed out.



Not sure if genuine Dodge part or not, not sure what auto shops normally do.



They did check a couple of other things before saying coil pack. Also, never seen a squirrel in my neighborhood. 🙁 I park in my garage at any rate, except at work which is out side and have squirrels but I'm sure the mechanic would have seen that... ?


I should add, 74k miles on the car. :/

Sometimes shops will use cheaper aftermarket parts to keep your cost down, unless work was performed at the dealer.

I am a firm believer that you should only use OEM parts from the dealer, or quality, brand name aftermarket parts when doing an upgrade. I never use generic parts anymore, had too many faulty rebuilds that just end up wasting time while saving a few bucks.

 

[bruceb]

Swap the suspect pack with another cylinder, clear the codes and see if the code for the original cylinder comes back or if it now gives a code for the cylinder you swapped the coil to. If it does, the pack is definitely defective. If it still shows a problem with where the coil originally was, then something else is wrong at that cylinder. I would examine and test the wires to the suspect coil pack and also the wires to the fuel injector. They make a tester that can tell if the computer is telling the injector to fire.

 

[RLGL]

Sometimes shops will use cheaper aftermarket parts to keep your cost down, unless work was performed at the dealer.

I am a firm believer that you should only use OEM parts from the dealer, or quality, brand name aftermarket parts when doing an upgrade. I never use generic parts anymore, had too many faulty rebuilds that just end up wasting time while saving a few bucks.

YES!!!!! Somebody else thinks like me.

 

[microAmp]

Update:

The mechanic did some standard testing they did the first time around, fuel pressure check and few other things with cold and hot engine and all checked out fine.

To get access to the coil packs, sparks plugs, compression testing, and leak test, they let have to remove upper intake manifold. Cold engine compression testing and leak test (0.04) showed it being good. They then ran the engine for 2 hours and repeated the compression testing, which was good; then the leak test, not so good. 0.50? IIRC.

The garage shop said Dodge has a TSB for that particular cylinder head and it should be free for me to get it fixed once Dodge does all their diagnostics testing and come to the same conclusion, due to there being some kind of extended warranty.

Related article: http://www.torquenews.com/106/chrysler-replacing-cylinder-heads-select-pentastar-v6-powered-models

A website reports left cylinder head gets 10 year 150,000 mile warranty: http://www.allpar.com/news/2014/06/chrysler-stands-behind-heads-25322

Other issues:

When it rained, water go into the trunk lid, then will go into trunk when lid is lifted. I suspect it got through the spoiler.

Heater core seems to be clogged, no heat to middle or passenger vents. From what I saw, up to $1200 to fix.

Heater/AC actuator keeps breaking, changed fresh air to re-circulation air.

VIN: 1C3CDZEG9CN129202